Problem with keyless entry AND door lock cylinders

[Mr Detailer]

My problem started a couple of weeks ago. I noticed that my keyless entry remote was working sporadically. I switched the remote on my key ring with the spare, and tried that one instead. Same problem. So I went to Autozone and bought a new battery. Even with the new battery, the problem still exists.
If I push the buttons on the remote, I don't hear a sound from inside or from the engine bay, unless the doors actually lock/unlock. The times that they don't respond, there is no sound whatsoever. Shouldn't there be a sound from some electronic part (a relay?)?
I recall that I did clean the engine bay thoroughly a couple days prior to noticing this problem. I clean my engine entirely by hand though, so water forced into a component is not likely. I'm thinking maybe I got some NXT Protectant on a wire or connection somewhere that is causing the intermittent operation?

Here lies the biggest part of the problem...
I have been using my key in the lock cylinder to open the doors much of the time, when pushing the remote a dozen times doesn't yield any response. There is a small plastic bar inside the cylinder that I assume is there to keep water/dirt out of the cylinder. Well this plastic has apparently been degrading over the years, because after a few times being pushed by the key, it started to crumble and chip away. The one on the driver's side has more missing then remaining at this time. Of course it happens when you push the key in, so most (or all) of the bits of plastic fall inside. This morning I opened the garage and pushed my remote button to open the doors...no response. After a dozen or more attempts, I decided to use the key. I inserted the key, and a piece broke off (surprise surprise... :( ). The piece got stuck in the cylinder, so the key could not get in. I didn't push hard on it, because I knew it wouldn't help my case to force it farther in the cylinder. I went around to the passenger side door to unlock the doors, but of course the plastic piece in that one is falling apart too, so it's only a matter of time before my remote won't work, and neither of my key cylinders will unlock the doors either. :

I just went outside to move my car from one of the campus parking lots (metered parking...I was late) to a farther one (non-metered). Of course I had to open the doors from the passenger side again, and hope that the plastic didn't clog that cylinder. I'd be in big trouble if it did.
So I got in, drove it to the other lot, and had the idea to use a tiny knife blade to pick the plastic out of the driver's side cylinder. I wasn't able to actually remove it, but I was able to push it up and out of the way of the key. I inserted the key slowly, and it went right in, locking and unlocking the doors with no problem. I'm afraid this is merely a temporary fix though. After all, the plastic bits are still inside there, just not actually clogging the cylinder.
This is really frustrating me. What good is a shiny car if you can't open the doors? :( I really don't want to leave my door(s) unlocked all the time either.

Driver's side:

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/medium/DS_Lock.JPG

Passenger side:

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/medium/PS_lock.JPG


Metal! What a brilliant idea! :rolleyes:
I don't know why they used metal for the trunklid lock but not the door locks.

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/medium/Trunk_Lock.JPG

Please offer some suggestions/ideas! Any reason my keyless might not be working? Anything I could do to fix the lock cylinder issue? Any other ideas about anything?
Thank you.

[Captain KRM P5]

hmm, mine are metal. in any event it looks like you will need new lock cylinders to remedy the situation.

[Mr Detailer]

How much do new cylinders cost? Are they easy to replace? Do you sell them? (I'm assuming not)

[Captain KRM P5]

How much do new cylinders cost? Are they easy to replace? Do you sell them? (I'm assuming not) i will check, they must be keyed and installed by a locksmith or dealer and yes i do sell them

[martinmzfan]

Highly unlikely you damaged anything from a simple detail in the engine bay.

Electrical circuits/fuses for the Keyless Entry system/power locks are located under steering wheel inside car and on rear deck (4dr):

1) Inspect the DOOR LOCK 30A fuse [maybe bad?]
2) Inspect Door lock Control Module [under driver dash area attached to firewall, you should hear a relay clicking every time you depress lock/unlock on transmitter or int. door switch]
3) Inspect Keyless Entry Control Module [located at rear deck pass side under deck cover, check for a bad connection/wire; more involved electrical troubleshooting, see workshop manual -- not for a novice]
4) bad individual door lock actuators [one or two more common]

More than likely you have a bad ground connection or open circuit (translation = loose/damaged wire or fuse)

5) Apparently your door locks suffer from a similar defect! I don't think the door lock cylinders have a separate end cap w/flap. Sorry, best thing to do is replace both door lock cylinders [about $54 each] with new units [each has a separate key]. Follow manual to remove lock cylinders and save tumblers. Re-key yourself [easy but very, very tricky] or bring to a locksmith [about $60-75 each lock... AAA may cover one lock repair free... find out]. I just removed the trunk lock cylinder and SeaFoamed the tumbler until it was clean [it stopped turning but the cap was still good]. Instant repair. The plastic key flaps on the earlier doors are crap. Good thing mine are steel.

This guy is awsome!!
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/
--------------------------------------------
09-007/02 1999-2002 PROTEGE - TRUNK KEY DIFFICULT TO INSERT OR UNABLE TO TURN KEY OR CYLINDER FLAP BROKEN
APPLICABLE MODELS
1999-2002 Protege'
DESCRIPTION
The flap inside the trunk lock cylinder assembly may become loose or damaged preventing proper locking and unlocking of the trunk. The cap and flap can be replaced separately. Use the repair procedure below to repair this concern.


REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify the customer concern
If key cannot be inserted or cylinder cannot be rotated, key cylinder requires disassembly and removal of obstruction, proceed to STEP 2
If key cylinder flap is damaged and key cylinder operates properly, proceed to STEP 3


Key Cylinder Disassembly Procedure
Remove the cylinder from the vehicle using the workshop manual procedure in section 09-14
Pry off the key cylinder cap and flap. Discard the cap and flap
Remove the clip, lever, and spring washer
Insert the key and remove the tumbler assembly
NOTE: If key cannot be inserted completely, it will be necessary to depress the exposed tumblers to remove the tumbler assembly

On a clean work surface, remove each of the tumblers and place them in their specific sequence, to insure that they will be installed in their original positions
Inspect for and remove all pieces of the broken flap
Reinsert tumblers into their original slots
Insert key into tumbler assembly
With key still in tumbler, insert tumbler into cylinder
Using the key, turn the tumbler inside cylinder until it seats completely into the cylinder and remove the key
Install spring washer, lever and clip. Proceed to STEP 5
NOTE: Make sure the lever is facing the correct direction


Remove the cylinder from the vehicle using the workshop manual procedure in section 09-14

Pry off the key cylinder cap and remove the flap from the tumbler

Install the new flap

Install the new cap
NOTE: Make sure the claws in the cap fit into the grooves in the cylinder

[Mr Detailer]

2) Inspect Door lock Control Module [under driver dash area attached to firewall, you should hear a relay clicking every time you depress lock/unlock on transmitter or int. door switch]


I do hear a clicking sound from under the driver's side dash area, but only when the keyless is actually working. It doesn't work every time (far from it).



09-007/02 1999-2002 PROTEGE - TRUNK KEY DIFFICULT TO INSERT OR UNABLE TO TURN KEY OR CYLINDER FLAP BROKEN
APPLICABLE MODELS
1999-2002 Protege'
DESCRIPTION
The flap inside the trunk lock cylinder assembly may become loose or damaged preventing proper locking and unlocking of the trunk. The cap and flap can be replaced separately. Use the repair procedure below to repair this concern.

Is this a recall? My trunk lock has this problem. I've got all kinds of problems at the moment. :(

[martinmzfan]

I do hear a clicking sound from under the driver's side dash area, but only when the keyless is actually working. It doesn't work every time (far from it).

Clicking under the dash is good! That tells me your door lock control module is working. Keyless entry control has a separate module. This may be the culprit. Does the PL switch on the driver's door lock/unlock ALL DOORS correctly? Inspect each one. Intermittant electrical issues are a real tough one. Probably a bad ground or connection at a harness for the keyless module under rear deck cover. Easy to check. Inspect. The module itself may be fried -- this is the last thing to check -- keep it simple first.



Is this a recall? My trunk lock has this problem. I've got all kinds of problems at the moment. :(

Nope. Simply a Mazda TSB. Not a recall. One problem at a time to troubleshoot... easy guy! Spray some SeaFoam Deep Creep (or equal) inside the truck lock until it comes out of front and on bottom. Have some rags handy! Some small pieces of debris clog up the tumblers preventing the cylinder from turning. From your pic, your lock looks okay! I'm thorough and removed the lock from the trunk and blasted it with Deep Creek for a minute! Pain to remove. Worked fine.

[NegatiZE]

This is a long shot, but have you tried reprogramming the remotes?

[Mr Detailer]

Does the PL switch on the driver's door lock/unlock ALL DOORS correctly?


Yes, to my knowledge, all of the doors lock and unlock fine from the driver's power lock button.




Spray some SeaFoam Deep Creep (or equal) inside the truck lock until it come out everywhere. Have some rags handy!

What do you mean by "come[s] out everywhere"? Where does it come out, other than the lock cylinder?

Negatize - I have not tried to reprogram the remotes yet, but it's definitely a consideration.

[NegatiZE]

These instructions are for the 01+ models, but it SHOULD work for 99/00ers:

http://www.knology.net/~negatize/images/2.jpg

[martinmzfan]

These instructions are for the 01+ models, but it SHOULD work for 99/00ers:

http://www.knology.net/~negatize/images/2.jpg

Yep. I'd try definately try it before doing any parts removal. Easy things first!

[Mr Detailer]

OK I'm going to reprogram the remotes today. Shame it's taken me so long, but anyway...

When it says "push driver's side door switch three times", that refers to the lock/unlock button? Does it matter whether I push lock or unlock?

"Verify that door lock actuators lock, then unlock."
Is this referring to locking/unlocking using the remote, or the door button?

How do you get out of the reprogramming mode? Just by leaving it alone for a bit?

[NegatiZE]

When it says the door switch, they are talking about the powder door lock switch by the power window switches. If you are successfully in programming mode, it doesn't matter if you press up or down on the button; the doors will automatically lock then unlock by themselves.

Once you've completed the final step, it gets out of the programming mode.

[Mr Detailer]

OK thanks.

[Smokeybear]

don't want to hijack anyone's thread but I have a similar problem on my wife's car. It's a 01 protege, The lock motor on the driver's door broke the plastic gear and wouldn't lock or unlock so I replaced it with a new motor from mazda. Well now when I hit the unlock button on the remote or the door, the pass. front and driver rear unlocks but the driver's door LOCKS, when I hit lock on either the remote or the door the pass door and driver rear locks but the driver's door does NOTHING. The pass. rear does nothing either way. Also when I roll down the driver's window it hits the motor casing and throws the window off track. Any ideas?