NA Power Stage 1: Basic Modifications

[thebeansoldier]

NA Power Stage 1
(designed, primarily for the Mz3, but can be adapted to your ride)

This is the first stage of modifications for owners who want to start modding, or just give their 3 a peppier response, smoother acceleration, better electrical efficiency, and a small increase in gas mileage. Anyone interested in these primary modifications can easily access the instructions as I’ve linked to them. No need for searching and coming up empty. These modifications are very basic, very easily reversible and will not void your warranty.

1. Throttle Body Ground
2. Full Ground Kit - Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit
3. Intake resonator removal
4. Panel filter replacement
5. Short shifter


1. Throttle Body Ground
Install: 5-10min (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2400612)
Info: TB torque spec: 6-8ft/lb
Cost: $3-5
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Smoother shifting
Cons: N/A
This is one of the simplest do-it-yourself modifications you can do. It primarily consists of one heavy gauge wire (8-10ga) connecting from one of the bolts from the throttle body to the negative terminal or the main chassis ground. Users report a more linear acceleration and slightly better throttle response with grounding directly to the negative terminal. This in itself is a drivability mod. It will not show in a dyno as the throttle is at WOT (wide open throttle) the whole time. Dynos don’t test for throttle response.


2. Full Ground Kit -- Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit
Install: 10-30min
Info: TB: 6-8ft/lb; Fuel Rail: 14-19ft/lb
Cost: $5-180
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Better mileage, More Power
Cons: N/A
A ground kit consists of several heavy gauge wires connected to a central unit; some are connect to the negative terminal of your battery. Stabilizer kits include a capacitor to regulate voltage.
These capacitors theoretically would reduce headlight dimming of 3s with stock halogens, but the alternator is too weak to help prevent that. They will however increase the electrical efficiency of the car. Steer clear of the $29 stabilizers on ebay. Stick with Buddy Club Condenser (http://buddyclub.us) or Apexi (http://www.apexi-usa.com) for the stabilizers. At the moment, there are much more 3 owners purchasing the BC Condenser due to its cost, look, and it’s been dyno-proven. If you don’t want to spend too much, you can make your own ground kit or purchase a universal kit from ebay. The universal kit's wires are not often very flexible, and the shipping costs too much.

Install is as easy as the throttle body ground, if your kit has a condenser/stabilizer; you just connect the condenser’s positive wire to the battery’s positive, and negative to negative. The ground wires can then be attached from the condenser to the ground points. I’ve chosen the left strut tower, the fuel rail and the throttle body.

Skeptics will always debate power gains, but here is my dyno for the Buddy Club Condenser. The graph looks that way because the run was started on 3K. More in this later.

Mods: AEM Intake + RX8 Wheels + Buddy Club Kit (taken at4500ft)
Info: RX8 wheel/tire combos are 45-46lbs total per corner (vs 42lbs for 17”, 39lbs for 16”)
http://i2.tinypic.com/t8m6hd.gif

http://tinypic.com/jj8t4j.jpg


3. Intake Resonator Removal
Install: 30-1hr (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Cost: $0
Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation
Cons: N/A
You can remove your stock intake's resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.


4. Replace Stock Air Filter
Install: 5-10min (remove 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new)
Cost: $40-60
Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency
Cons: N/A
Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N (http://knfilters.com) . If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.

Part Numbers:
2.0L/2.3L : 33-2293
1.6L: 33-2874


5. Short Throw Shifter
Install: 30-60min (http://www.twmperformance.com/manuals/Mazda%203%20Manual.pdf)
Cost: $150-200
Pros: Shorter throw, Positive shift feel
Cons: Notchy shift feel
A short shifter shortens the throw by 20-40% depending on the brand. A suggestion is to purchase the kits that have a bend towards the driver, for aesthetics. Notchiness will be felt shifting with the stock knob. This will be alleviated with a weighted knob. The best and more expensive knobs come from TWM. This modification will not reduce the life of your transmission.

Shifters Kits (throw reduction):
TWM : http://twmperformance.com (40% / 2.5” height reduction)
ARK: http://www.arkspeedracing.com (35%)
Mazdaspeed: (20%)



You’ve now completed Stage 1. If you wish to continue, Stage 2 is slightly more involved, but it will introduce you to the bread and butter of the bolt-on modifications and better power gains. With more dynos and videos.

[tsunami]

an informative and well thought out post... nicely done

[Jeph]

Wow, very informative, and it'll be nice for all the new 3 owners to come in. Someone should sticky it

[mp3moose]

Make sticky.

[puh-leeze]

except for ground, i'm partly into stage2 already then...

speaking of which, where's the thread for that? this one looks decent

[Kansei]

A very nicely laid out an informative thread, bravo. I love these forums :)

[thebeansoldier]

Thanks everyone. I'm almost done with stage 2. I'm trying to figure out which should stay and be moved to the 3rd.

[JOS3]

great, informative post. this should definitely be sticky

[SpinZero]

I'm curious about the "improvement" shown on that dyno graph. It's basically less than 1% gain on HP and a little over 1% on torque. Are you sure that this is NOT within the resolution of that particular dyno?

In other words, are you certain that if you dyno your car twice in a row without any intentional changes, it will always return values that are within 1% of each other?

I ask because I'm yet to see such an accurate dyno.

P.S. I'm not necessarily trying to say that your claim is wrong. I'm just saying that unless the dyno has an unusual accuracy, one cannot draw any conclusion from that graph.

[awsmp5]

hm so grounding wires acutally add minimal hp and tq? i was in the proccess of making my own but that sorta got ditched for suspension work

anyone know where i can get 4 gauge red audio ground wire from? like online for cheap?

[goldwing2000]

It's definitely good info if you choose these mods but it's kind of subjective and up to personal preference, so I'm not going to sticky it.

Generally, nobody seems to read sticky posts, anyway. :rolleyes:

[ZoomVT]

i think it should be stickyed because it is better than 85% of all threads made. it is well written and it has good info.
oh well. i'll just subscribe now, i think im gonna do the ground TB mod.

[goldwing2000]

It's definitely well written. I'll just copy the original post to the How-To forum. That should keep it relatively fresh.

[Javo]

Would this engine, l3-ve fit a protege????I am thinking adout a swap...And the fund is comming!!!

[thebeansoldier]

I'm curious about the "improvement" shown on that dyno graph. It's basically less than 1% gain on HP and a little over 1% on torque. Are you sure that this is NOT within the resolution of that particular dyno?

In other words, are you certain that if you dyno your car twice in a row without any intentional changes, it will always return values that are within 1% of each other?

I ask because I'm yet to see such an accurate dyno.

P.S. I'm not necessarily trying to say that your claim is wrong. I'm just saying that unless the dyno has an unusual accuracy, one cannot draw any conclusion from that graph.

From your question, it looks like you were just looking at peak power. From the car on your profile, i think it's safe to assume you haven't seen too many 3 dynos? :) a lot of the dynos that start at 3K have that "gap" or sudden surge which could be caused by a voltage drop just when or before the VVT engages- not sure exactly. The condenser eliminates that gap, and smoothens the powerband. So downshifting from 4th to 3rd and WOT-ing for example, will yield a smoother acceleration.

if you are expecting 5hp+ peak gains from a ground/condenser kit, you're expecting way too much as it does not directly manipulate any part of your intake, exhaust, ecu, a/f ratio, etc. All it does is provide a more efficient electrical system. Any benefits gained is just a bonus. A manufacturer finds the car with the biggest bonus, and uses that for their marketting. See how that works?

I know for a fact that no one really wants to dyno a ground/condenser kit, unless they work for a tuning manufacturer. It justs costs too much for the end-user, because for them, its "just a ground kit". I just dyno'd it to get a "baseline" of just the RX8 wheels, intake, and the BC condenser.

Based on my dynos on the Condenser, members on the other forum i go to started purchasing the BC kit and report noticable difference in idle and acceleration and started suggesting to other members to purchase them as well.

Bottomline, the 3 gains back some power lost, or smoothens the power curves, improves acceleration, throttle response and idle. It might work very well on other cars too, it might not. But if you want to try it out, i'm working on a group buy for interested members :)

Here is my dyno split so you can easily see where the gains are, and a dyno from another member before he installed a turbo kit. Apparently G-Techs also show that "gap" like the first dyno.

Here's the dyno without the condenser, see the gap?
http://i1.tinypic.com/v5xsoh.jpg
Here's WITH the condenser (the gap gets smoothed out)
http://i1.tinypic.com/v5xstl.jpg
Here's another member's dyno (user has Draxas exhaust + high flow cat + Injen CAI [could be with stock wheels?]) see the gap?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/552940_33_full.jpg

[boardumb]

groupbuy? sold (2thumbs)

[kmfdMZ3]

i'd be in for the bc gb

[invert]

Hi,
I think you forgot one basic mod, the Timing :)

[thebeansoldier]

Hi,
I think you forgot one basic mod, the Timing :)

i'm saving the ignition timing for stage 2 or 3 (probably 2). I wouldn't want to suggest anything that has to do with the word "timing" to people who are starting out- no matter how easy it is.

EDIT: I forgot to mention-- the owner who did that 3rd dyno had the Apexi Stabilizer kit the time of the dyno when I talked to him about it. Something to think about. :)

As for the GB, I'm still waiting for call backs from the stores. Hopefully, i can get it down to 100-110 shipped. The cheapest place is 135 shipped at: http://www.streetrays.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/9286

where i got it from. Hopefully i can make a deal with them.

[SpinZero]

Bean Soldier, thanks for the great explanation. (headbang)

You're right, I haven't looked at the 3 dyno graphs much at all, and I missed that drop around 5K. That is very interesting.

So basically what you're saying is, first something in the electrical system demands peak current at around 5K RPM, which somehow puts impulse load on the engine.

Then that load shows up as the sharp gap in the power band, which you can smooth out by basically introducing a capacitor to the system, right?

It makes sense, especially with those graphs to back it up.

What I don't get is how the peak current can have such a sharp, real-time impact on the engine output. I mean, it's the battery that supplies the current in the first place, and as long as this peak current doesn't drain out the battery completely, I would've thought that the recharging would be a lot smoother. (confused)

I do know that the engine really starts to sing at just around 5K RPM. But then I thought the VVT was continuous? (confused) (confused)

[thebeansoldier]

Would this engine, l3-ve fit a protege????I am thinking adout a swap...And the fund is comming!!!

Javo, I'm not sure if you posted in the right thread... if your'e asking about the 3 engine, i'm not really sure.

[Gambino]

big man says sticky, so sticky it is!

[thebeansoldier]

Thanks for the sticky, tphskab (cabpatch)

BTW, anyone still interested in the Buddy Club Condenser, the best deal I could find is $125 shipped ($128.75 paypal) from streetrays, pm me if you're interested as I can only do 5 at a time, then 10 at a time if we get more people. But if they know more people are interested, I can probably talk him down to $120. They know they have the best deal (believe me, i've tried many places online and local, even the closest dealer to Buddy Club!) and can't do any lower at the moment. I will do a group buy thread. $10 off isn't bad :)


SpinZero, It's the 3's alternator that's weak, that's why even with the condenser installed and the engine's on, the headlights/gauge cluster still dim when you play with the window controls. Optima batteries don't do anything to solve the dimming either.

Yes, VVT is continuous, and there are several variable valves in the intake end that close or open depending on operating/coolant temp, and load. I think that sharp drop or gap is caused by the variable intake-air shutter valve opening (opens at 4700rpm) and VVT switching to "full load", and the ECU frantically calculating how much fuel to put in because of the greater amount of air coming in so suddenly.

"Borrow" your wife's car for a few minutes and try this, while cruising at 3K, WOT until redline on 3rd. You might feel like the car's power feels a little stagnant until it reaches 5k. Then try the same thing but WOT starting 2K. The VVT sets to "full load" right away and gives you the most power until red line.

[boardumb]

Thanks for the sticky, tphskab (cabpatch)

BTW, anyone still interested in the Buddy Club Condenser, the best deal I could find is $125 shipped ($128.75 paypal) from streetrays, pm me if you're interested as I can only do 5 at a time, then 10 at a time if we get more people. But if they know more people are interested, I can probably talk him down to $120. They know they have the best deal (believe me, i've tried many places online and local, even the closest dealer to Buddy Club!) and can't do any lower at the moment. I will do a group buy thread. $10 off isn't bad :)


SpinZero, It's the 3's alternator that's weak, that's why even with the condenser installed and the engine's on, the headlights/gauge cluster still dim when you play with the window controls. Optima batteries don't do anything to solve the dimming either.

Yes, VVT is continuous, and there are several variable valves in the intake end that close or open depending on operating/coolant temp, and load. I think that sharp drop or gap is caused by the variable intake-air shutter valve opening (opens at 4700rpm) and VVT switching to "full load", and the ECU frantically calculating how much fuel to put in because of the greater amount of air coming in so suddenly.

"Borrow" your wife's car for a few minutes and try this, while cruising at 3K, WOT until redline on 3rd. You might feel like the car's power feels a little stagnant until it reaches 5k. Then try the same thing but WOT starting 2K. The VVT sets to "full load" right away and gives you the most power until red line.

Just curious, why only 5 at a time? I'm still considering the GB, just give me a couple days (gotta get my car tinted first(flame) )

[thebeansoldier]

Just curious, why only 5 at a time? I'm still considering the GB, just give me a couple days (gotta get my car tinted first(flame) )

That's fine, they have 20 kits available at the moment and they can order more as needed. It's quicker for all of us to process 5 at a time, than waiting for all 10 people to pay. Once the first 5's done and I send my payment to StreetRays, the next 5 will be processed.

Here's the link to the Group Buy
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123632039

[racer x 3]

hey... i'm not here nearly often enough, but rest assured (beansoldier) that the write up in this thread is most appreciated, and for that i respect you...

i am not usually one to "sheep" around and just think, "well if this guy said this and that, i should do it".... but your write up is just right in terms of allowing the less confident to get truly involved with their vehicles rather than "i hope this works"...

with my moderate (neither just basic nor advanced) knowledge of the car, i am looking forward to stage II. i feel like the parts and procedures will be nearly exactly what i am expecting.

i am done licking your cinnamon ring now- just wanted to let you know that your care for the better of this site is not unappreciated.

[SABIO]

there is so many Threads in different forums about the *GIMMICK* Stabalizers/condensors/Caps....

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110042

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50079

This one is like 15 pages...read it all!!! This was from a Reputable Japanese Shop for $240.... Nothing but Junk....

There is Absolutley not current flow through ANY of these parts.... why do you need blue fuses and thicker wires for $140!!!

[boardumb]

there is so many Threads in different forums about the *GIMMICK* Stabalizers/condensors/Caps....

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110042

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50079

This one is like 15 pages...read it all!!! This was from a Reputable Japanese Shop for $240.... Nothing but Junk....

There is Absolutley not current flow through ANY of these parts.... why do you need blue fuses and thicker wires for $140!!!

From what I read from those two links, it's only about one product, and from what I can tell they don't even make it anymore.

thebeansoldier has posted dynos, and TPR magazine did a grounding system dyno shootout last year. I don't see anything reputable telling me not to get this product.

Edit: Plus thebeansoldier's hot avatars on the other forum are hard to say no to (hump)

[thebeansoldier]

there is so many Threads in different forums about the *GIMMICK* Stabalizers/condensors/Caps....

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110042

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50079

This one is like 15 pages...read it all!!! This was from a Reputable Japanese Shop for $240.... Nothing but Junk....

There is Absolutley not current flow through ANY of these parts.... why do you need blue fuses and thicker wires for $140!!!


Wow, way to attempt to thread crap, Sabio- and it's not even from the same manufacturer! what happend, did you get banned from m**************** from bad-mouthing the 3? (yawn)

Post the same thing in the other forum, see what they say :)

[ZoomVT]

i dont know who the hell he is but he has been thread crapping a bunch of threads here but never showed his face here since he registered like 2 years ago.

[thebeansoldier]

i dont know who the hell he is but he has been thread crapping a bunch of threads here but never showed his face here since he registered like 2 years ago.

he was "fine" a few months back- even dyno'd his intak+exhaust to show everyone. I think he traded in his 3 for a sentra. His more recent posts just badmouths the 3... eh, just treat him as a troll and go about your business :)

[tsunami]

wierd i don't have that dip in the 5krpm range from my first dyno...the only thing that comes to mind is that this was after i did my audio so i only have 1 wire going to chasis ground from the neg terminal and it is 0awg... that and i have the simota sri but either way there isn't a dip in the 5k range.. ???

[thebeansoldier]

wierd i don't have that dip in the 5krpm range from my first dyno...the only thing that comes to mind is that this was after i did my audio so i only have 1 wire going to chasis ground from the neg terminal and it is 0awg... that and i have the simota sri but either way there isn't a dip in the 5k range.. ???

Thanks for the dyno, tsunami. That much power at 90 degrees, very good! :) May I ask a copy of your run file?

Your graph is very smooth because it's started at at ~2k, so the throttle was requesting the VVT be put to full load right away.

that BCC graph is actually a more accurate interpretation of real-world benefits tell you why in a sec. Imagine cruising at 3K rpm, then all of a sudden, you want to race, and you WOT. The VVT's still in "medium load" until about 5k, where it switches to "full load". Would you really race someone by letting off the throttle until 2k then WOTing to request full load from the VVT right off the bat? No, as the guy you're racing against will probably be gone by then.

Dynos that start at 2k (like my other dynos) are only good to show peak power since you're requesting full load right away.

I scanned a diagram from the Service Highlights, which will show you what i'm talking about:

http://i3.tinypic.com/vxgspz.gif

From the FAQ:

I can't completely verify this, but think I'm pretty close. According to the Service Highlights Manual, the "medium load" operation ends for the VVT at almost 5K, then switches to "full load" (what happens during that time will be the fuel mixture calculations or A/F map loading, VIS opening, etc). The condenser eliminates that gap, and smoothens the powerband. So downshifting from 4th to 3rd and WOT-ing for example, will yield a smoother acceleration

You should be able to tell what mods are in the filename.
Started at 3K after the advanced timing mod (for stage 2) vs the Buddy Club kit.
http://i1.tinypic.com/se1t3p.gif

After telling the operator to start at 2k instead, we get this.
http://i1.tinypic.com/sf8itv.gif

See the difference? :)

[tsunami]

sadly i don't have an electronic copy its just scanned in from my hard copy.. i can send you that if you like???

thanks for clearing that up a little bit the map from the service manual was a bit much to take in at first but after staring at it for a bit and reading what you said it makes sense now, and the different "dips" make sense as well, i have another dyno scheduled for the begining of the month i will be sure to ask for one done @2k and one @3k... good info bean!!!

[thebeansoldier]

sadly i don't have an electronic copy its just scanned in from my hard copy.. i can send you that if you like???

thanks for clearing that up a little bit the map from the service manual was a bit much to take in at first but after staring at it for a bit and reading what you said it makes sense now, and the different "dips" make sense as well, i have another dyno scheduled for the begining of the month i will be sure to ask for one done @2k and one @3k... good info bean!!!


Well I have the electronic copy, it's up there! Make sure to bring a thumb drive to your next dyno so you can copy all your files. Sharing is caring :)

My next dyno will be in a few days to test the F2 intake. I'll see if I can have the operator request a full load just above idle- but it'll probably just stall because of the rollers, hehe.

[tsunami]

never even thought to bring one with me... will do. itnerested to see if the f2 gives you any more gains over the aem...

[thebeansoldier]

I'm waiting for Ricardo to send me more parts for it (kn filter/new insert/a bolt/possibly a license frame to replace my AEM, etc :) ). I was planning to dyno it this saturday, but i'd like to dyno it with the new urethane insert and the KN filter which everyone will have in the GB. Interested in the GB? It's at

http://**********************/index.php?topic=44791.0

[Topgun]

any word on the progress of the Stage 2 stuff??

[thebeansoldier]

i'm almost done. checking the file sizes, of the docs, the first one's 9k and the stage 2 is 16k (all text, mind you ;) ) i'll do my best not to disappoint.

[Topgun]

i'm almost done. checking the file sizes, of the docs, the first one's 9k and the stage 2 is 16k (all text, mind you ;) ) i'll do my best not to disappoint.

hey im all about waiting because if its anything like the stage 1(first) info then it will be good...keep up the good work!!

[goldwing2000]

i am done licking your cinnamon ring now-

(boom07)

[BoostThat3]

So I didn't even know about this and I started this "stage 1" thing.. lol, I have the K&N, maybe that's why it sounds deeper and has a little more throttle response?

[thebeansoldier]

So I didn't even know about this and I started this "stage 1" thing.. lol, I have the K&N, maybe that's why it sounds deeper and has a little more throttle response?

You're always on M3F and you didn't know about this? It's a frickin' sticky on the modification's section! see what happens when you spend too much time taking pics of 3? :p


... unless you're different from M3F's BoostThat3...

[RBD402]

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?id=224&pageNum=1

guys how can we order tese? and any idea how much?

[thebeansoldier]

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?id=224&pageNum=1

guys how can we order tese? and any idea how much?

$200
http://www.streetrays.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/643_649/products_id/7438

$135 - Buddy Club (proven to work better than Apex'i)
http://www.streetrays.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/643_649/products_id/9286

[RBD402]

thank you guy's..

[BKK Jack]

I am new to this forum, and definitely new to modifying cars. I don't even have a 3 yet, but it is number 1 on the list when I return to the U.S. this year and buy. I have a question about the grounding. It seems interesting and easy, and I guess it explains the lights in the engine bays of all those Fast and Furious cars.

Step one is grounding the throttle body, and step two is installing the voltage stabilizer, which you said you attached to the fuel rail, left strut tower, throttle body. Do you then have two grounds on the TB, or when you installed the stabilizer, did you remove the previously installed direct ground from the TB?


Pardon the n00b questions, and thanks for the information and pics. This will really help me when I get my 3. I am eagerly awaiting Stage 2.

[thebeansoldier]

Step one is grounding the throttle body, and step two is installing the voltage stabilizer, which you said you attached to the fuel rail, left strut tower, throttle body. Do you then have two grounds on the TB, or when you installed the stabilizer, did you remove the previously installed direct ground from the TB?


The voltage stabilizer actually covers the TB grounding. A simple 10g wire from the TB to the negative battery terminal will hold you until you get the funds fo the stabilizer. The Buddy Club kit seems to be a hit with the 3 crowd. There seems to be a new owner almost every other week- and they have good reviews.

Here's stage 2 (tons of dynos). It'd be nice if it was a sticky too :(
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123634585

[BKK Jack]

The voltage stabilizer actually covers the TB grounding. A simple 10g wire from the TB to the negative battery terminal will hold you until you get the funds fo the stabilizer. The Buddy Club kit seems to be a hit with the 3 crowd. There seems to be a new owner almost every other week- and they have good reviews.

Here's stage 2 (tons of dynos). It'd be nice if it was a sticky too :(
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123634585

Thanks for the reply. I am not so worried about the funds for the stabilizer as I am actually getting a car. I currently live in Bangkok, and will be moving to VA this December. I know the 3's are popular cars, and I will need one fast once I hit the ground. Hopefully, the new MS3 will deflect some of the demand from the regular-old-boring-run-of-the-mill-NA-3 I want.

I read your stage two write-up. Very nice. Regarding the TB coolant bypass, I am surprised, considering the apparent collective knowledge of this forum, someone has come up with a manually or thermostatically controlled actuator to bypass coolant from the TB during normal operation, and allow coolant (warmant?) to flow when conditions might cause TB freezing. Were I a whole lot smarter, I might just be able to come up with something.

[Nice_Mazda3SP23]

excellent thanks for the ideas, this simple mod is a new one for us in Australia...some have done the whole voltage stabilizer but not TB grounding as a simple go between.
thanks

[thebeansoldier]

excellent thanks for the ideas, this simple mod is a new one for us in Australia...some have done the whole voltage stabilizer but not TB grounding as a simple go between.
thanks

You AU owners are lucky you don't need the TB ground as you have cable-driven TBs. I think the TB ground is actually grounding the throttle position sensor, not the TB itself per se.

Since you have no need for the TB to be grounded, what are the typical ground points for you?

[Nice_Mazda3SP23]

i know from looking at a mates engine bay the block and body are earthed and from memory he had one on the TB but i will get back to you with exact details.

[elderlycoffee]

these worth doing to an ms3?

[Kansei]

these worth doing to an ms3?

1. Throttle Body Ground - IIRC MS3 has a different intake manifold (not made of plastic like on the normal mazda3) so you should be grounded through that)
2. Full Ground Kit - Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit - Your call on that one. For the most part I think they are just an item for show, a pathetic attempt at padding a mod list, etc.
3. Intake resonator removal - MS3 has a different intake (obviously) so it probably doesn't have a similar resonator in the intake.
4. Panel filter replacement - A nicer air filter than the usual paper stock filters is always nice.
5. Short shifter- If there's a short shifter out for the MS3, hells yeah. It's one of the first mods I did to my Protege5, and I gotta say it is one of my favorites. After a while you might forget your car has a short shifter, but drive a car that doesn't have one and WOW it's a shocking difference. Before I turboed my car, I drove a friend's stock Mazdaspeed Protege and the difference I noticed much more than the difference in speed (the MSP barely felt faster than my Protege5 with lots of NA mods) was how long the shifter throws were, and the Mazdaspeed Protege even comes with a factory short shifter (fairly pathetic IMO).

[thebeansoldier]

2. Full Ground Kit - Voltage Stabilizer/Condenser Kit - Your call on that one. For the most part I think they are just an item for show, a pathetic attempt at padding a mod list, etc.


lol, funny-- considering I even have a dyno and some files proving it's better than the apexi and even the basic throttle body ground.

http://i2.tinypic.com/vmw1p0.gif

Apexi stabilizer:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/552940_33_full.jpg

TB ground:
http://i13.tinypic.com/2rruc78.gif

EVERYONE who has purchased one who has installed the BCC like it.

so...padding a mod list? ;)

[Tronix102]

does anyone know if adding the k&n give you better gas milage because there are a few threads that say it gives you more power but less gas milage

[magik]

This is awesome, thanks so much. You kick ass :D

[Belvadere]

Where would you ground an MS3 since the throttle body is grounded already?

[theurgy]

Just finished grounding my throttle as my first mod.
I used a nice 4 gauge wire and some hardcore copper connectors, not sure if it's a bit of overkill using such a thick wire... but hey it was cheap and if anything is worth doing. It's worth doing right!
Next step is the intake baffle... thanks for a nice post.

[concept269]

Mazda kicked off a user-generated-contest with Facebook on 9/20. The contest focuses on design.

College grads describe a hypothetical 2018 Mazda concept car with words or sketches. The top 5 get to

develop their concepts with the Mazda design team, and the winner’s design will be unveiled live at

the 2007 LA International Auto Show.

Click here to visit the page.....
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=7602701619

[shek]

I like this post stage 1,2,3~~
after I saw this
I setup it also
I buy this buddyclub Condenser Kit for ￥900RMB

[MazdaBoyWonder]

does this only work with a stock intake...or can it also work with an after market?

[metrogreyM3]

i yanked out the intake resonator out yesterday, and happy i did, way deeper tone in the engine