Throttle Body Ground (by loudboxer)

[thebeansoldier]

Grounding the throttle body isn't going to make 'more' power overall, but on some cars it seems to make a huge difference in how quickly you can get to what power's there. In my case, the change in low to mid-throttle, mid rpm driving is significant. Perhaps this changed the torque curves a bit through a more open throttle and more fuel earlier in the rev-range? I dunno. Fifth-gear passing on the freeway is now possible (from 60 to 80 is a snap), rather than having to drop a gear or two. Off-the-line acceleration is much brisker and driving casually around town is silky smooth. It feels like someone dropped a v-6 in my 3. I forgot I had the A/C on as well... My car must have been running like a pile of shit before, never seeming at all happy below 3500-4000rpm. Anyway, I've had a huge smile on my face driving around since this mod.

I've been PM'd about photos, so here goes:

http://prototyp.org/mazda/20040718_crew_5258.jpg
The bits you need. 10gauge 1/4" ring terminals, and 10gauge wire. I just guessed at the amperage though, maybe bigger wire would be safer... After a two-hour commute the wire was barely warm. The throttle body is mounted to a plastic intake, so there's no grounding path other than a small wire in the harness I would suspect.


http://prototyp.org/mazda/20040718_map_5260.jpg
The path. Pretty simple if you're not too anal about things. The battery-box cover has a slot on the side where the battery-bracket is bolted, just run the wire through there.


http://prototyp.org/mazda/20040718_tbody_5262.jpg
The TB. Four 8mm bolts hold the throttle-body to the intake manifold. I used the upper-aft bolt, the lower aft would be more secretive though little harder to get to. Put the bolt back on tight, but don't strip the plastic of the manifold.


http://prototyp.org/mazda/20040718_battneg_5263.jpg
The Battery Neg. Run the wire between the ECU box and the battery box, up and around where the bracket bolts. That's a 10mm nut on the battery post. Get it all snug when done.

Enjoy the friskiness.

[Kansei]

What's with you making all sorts of nice writeups :D

I might try this on my Protege out of boredom, I'll post if it makes a difference or not.

[MSP#735]

interesting, i may have to re-arrange my 1sty grounding kit a bit, IF this does indeed result in a change. subbin'...

[Kansei]

interesting, i may have to re-arrange my 1sty grounding kit a bit, IF this does indeed result in a change. subbin'...

I'll definitely give it a try this weekend if I can find a store that carries nice wire to use for the job.

[tsunami]

would i get the same effect if i grounded it to the chasis where the neg battery lead goes? i would think so but i have a nice enough looking neg terminal and no more room for wires that big....

[thebeansoldier]

i didn't write this and i was surprised it hasn't been posted before in the how-to so i posted it. Most 3 (and 6) owners who have done it report differences, and the ones that have the most pronounce effect are from the ATX crowd.

For the TBs that are cable-driven, this won't do anything in throttle response, but you get a better ground to your TB tho.

[three]

Yeah its definitely noticable in my ATX 3 it doesnt really help power wise but is definitely more responsive.

[TheMAN]

i didn't write this and i was surprised it hasn't been posted before in the how-to so i posted it. Most 3 (and 6) owners who have done it report differences, and the ones that have the most pronounce effect are from the ATX crowd.

For the TBs that are cable-driven, this won't do anything in throttle response, but you get a better ground to your TB tho.

yeah... proteges and non-US 3s & 6s have cable throttles anyway

[Kansei]

Ok I lied, I didn't try it this weekend. I forgot that the 3 had an electronic throttle, so this wouldn't really do anything for the Protege.

I did check on partsexpress.com for pricing for all the 4 gauge cable and connectors I need to make myself a grounding kit though. It should be fun :)

[goldwing2000]

Hmm... I could have sworn this had been written up.

Guess not!

[Chilledboost]

this only works for cars that use the "Drive-By-Wire" system. i did this for a couple of mustang and f-150 owners cars.

[goldwing2000]

Yeah, that's been covered.

[CajunGreek]

Have you noticed any mileage impact from this? More, less, or the same?

Thanks for a nice writeup.

[thebeansoldier]

Have you noticed any mileage impact from this? More, less, or the same?

Thanks for a nice writeup.

All it does is decrease the throttle tip-in delay, provide a more linear acceleration give you smoother shifts. ATX owners report the most "gains".

[blondee_yvr]

Cool, thanks for the pics. Does anyone have the torque specs of the throttle body screw? I know I would likely strip the plastic of the manifold or not tighten it enough.

BTW, anyone actually notice an improvement with the intermittent rough idle or A/C?

[thebeansoldier]

Cool, thanks for the pics. Does anyone have the torque specs of the throttle body screw? I know I would likely strip the plastic of the manifold or not tighten it enough.

BTW, anyone actually notice an improvement with the intermittent rough idle or A/C?

TB torque spec is 6-8ft/lb. Members have reported better idle and smoother acceleration. Not sure about the A/C.

[tang]

So this does nothing for the Protege?? I did this mod to my Protege and I noticed some difference, What could it be then, since it is just a Cable throttle?

There is a distinct difference!

[tsunami]

your mind playing tricks on you...

[blondee_yvr]

TB torque spec is 6-8ft/lb. Members have reported better idle and smoother acceleration. Not sure about the A/C.

Thanks!

I am sure it wouldnt hurt the A/C. Damn, I thought I had a torque wrench, I think someone borrowed it and never returned it. (glare)

[flyrevs]

I tried this mod (2006 Mazda 3) and it did nothing at all! Before I started, I got out my DVM and measured the resistance from the TB to the cars neg. battery terminal (open circuit). So the TB is completely isolated from the ground of the car. With this isolation in mind I had my doubts, but decided to give it a go anyhow - what a waste of time. Can anyone give me a valid reason why this would do anything to the throttle response? Thanks

[goldwing2000]

It dissipates any static electricity that builds up due to the plastic intake pipes and manifold. That static can cause interference in the servo motor that controls the throttle plate.

Will it make a huge difference? Of course not.

Is it worth the 50 cents it costs to make the wire? Yep.

[blondee_yvr]

I tried this mod (2006 Mazda 3) and it did nothing at all! Before I started, I got out my DVM and measured the resistance from the TB to the cars neg. battery terminal (open circuit). So the TB is completely isolated from the ground of the car. Can anyone give me a valid reason why this would do anything to the throttle response? Thanks

The service manager at the dealership saw the write-up from here and the senior mechanic advised against it. There were a lot of issues to discuss about my 3, so I cant remember why they were against this. Next time I talk to him I will ask. But, the bottom line was NOT to install the wire. I think it's best to be safe than sorry and heed the advice.

[goldwing2000]

Fear of the unknown...

[bbrich57]

I did this several months ago w/my 5-sp. I noticed it seemed to be more smooth. And the rough, dead spot @2100-2350 RPM seemed to improve also. Since then however, I think the ECU "re-learned" and the rough spot is back, though I do still believe the acceleration is smoother overall. I have had no other problems at all. I don't even think about it being there most of the time. I haven't noticed any difference in fuel mileage. I still manage 27-28 when my right foot is idle and 24-25 when I'm in it hard and heavy.
BTW: I don't see any need to use 10 awg wire for this either, unless your TB is pulling 15 amps @ 12v.
The service manager at the dealership saw the write-up from here and the senior mechanic advised against it.
The bottom line was NOT to install the wire. I think it's best to be safe than sorry and heed the advice.
"Potential" warranty void... should, and only should, you develop a problem in the TB, or electrical area.
These guys are trained to "not bite the hand that feeds them." Look @ your owners manual. It looks like the Supreme Court justices wrote it w/all the legal disclaimers in there. Try to get through one page w/o @ least one.

[flyrevs]

I did this several months ago w/my 5-sp. I noticed it seemed to be more smooth. And the rough, dead spot @2100-2350 RPM seemed to improve also. Since then however, I think the ECU "re-learned" and the rough spot is back, though I do still believe the acceleration is smoother overall. I have had no other problems at all. I don't even think about it being there most of the time. I haven't noticed any difference in fuel mileage. I still manage 27-28 when my right foot is idle and 24-25 when I'm in it hard and heavy.
BTW: I don't see any need to use 10 awg wire for this either, unless your TB is pulling 15 amps @ 12v.

"Potential" warranty void... should, and only should, you develop a problem in the TB, or electrical area.
These guys are trained to "not bite the hand that feeds them." Look @ your owners manual. It looks like the Supreme Court justices wrote it w/all the legal disclaimers in there. Try to get through one page w/o @ least one.
What's the "Jeep" AirBox MOD?????????

[bbrich57]

What's the "Jeep" AirBox MOD?????????
Ha-HA!! I wondered when someone was gonna notice that. You win the cookie!! (first)
It's really simpler than it sounds. A co-worker, who's wife drives a "6" hatch but who himself is into Jeeps told me that because the air box on the 4.0L Jeeps is so big that many would drill a series of holes around the perimeter of the lower housing and add a K&N or similar air filter.
I didn't want it confused with the "resonator delete MOD" seen here so I called it... you guessed it, the Jeep airbox MOD!
/Threadjack!!

[goldwing2000]

Try to stay on topic, people.

Next time, send a PM.

[Zero Cool]

I just went and checked and the P.O. has already done this mod! It seems to run fine so for now i will keep it.


Zc

[flyrevs]

I took goldwing2000's advice and did the tb mod but a little differently and it was real easy.
Instead of goin all the way back to the battery, I figured since the engine is a nice ground - why not use it? This is cleaner and easier. I used a short piece of monster cable and wrapped in black tape to make it blend in better. Then I bolted it to the tb and used a manifold bolt for the other end (the grounding point). Took about 15 minutes.

[thebeansoldier]

The service manager at the dealership saw the write-up from here and the senior mechanic advised against it. There were a lot of issues to discuss about my 3, so I cant remember why they were against this. Next time I talk to him I will ask. But, the bottom line was NOT to install the wire. I think it's best to be safe than sorry and heed the advice.

(sleep)



Anyway, i think this mod isn't really grounding the TB per se, but you're providing a better ground for the TPS (throttle position sensor) instead, which is why mz3 members have been reporting differences in drivability.

Oh, for anyone who didn't know already there are no hp/tq gains on this mod.

flyrevs, are you sure that bolt you used is properly grounded?

[flyrevs]

(sleep)



Anyway, i think this mod isn't really grounding the TB per se, but you're providing a better ground for the TPS (throttle position sensor) instead, which is why mz3 members have been reporting differences in drivability.

Oh, for anyone who didn't know already there are no hp/tq gains on this mod.

flyrevs, are you sure that bolt you used is properly grounded?

Well if the engine block is grounded, then yes as the bolt goes straight into the block.

[goldwing2000]

Well if the engine block is grounded, then yes as the bolt goes straight into the block.

It goes into the head, actually. The only issue is that the further you get from the battery, the lower the quallity of the ground. Where you have it hooked up, you have TB-bolt-wire-bolt-head-bolt-block-bolt-wire-battery. Each connection increases resistance.

That being said, I don't think it's going to make a lot of difference, since this mod mainly dissipates static electricity moving through the plastic intake tract. As long as you make the metal-metal contact, it should do the job.

However, if you ever have any real power moving through a ground wire, you want as few connections as possible.

[JRH1]

Well, I did this mod today and I have noticed improved throttle response. It's not all in my head, since I've had to actively change the way I apply my foot to the pedal in response to the sensitivity change.
Before, the throttle was a little vague and sluggish, but now it's quick, eager, and precise.

[bbrich57]

Well, I did this mod today and I have noticed improved throttle response. It's not all in my head, since I've had to actively change the way I apply my foot to the pedal in response to the sensitivity change.
Before, the throttle was a little vague and sluggish, but now it's quick, eager, and precise.

I know this is a doom 'n' gloom post, but don't expect it to last too long. The ECU in the 3 re-learns and compensates for it.
I was extremely happy w/this at first too, but in order for it to work consistently you have to reset the ECU about every 100 miles or so.

[JRH1]

boo!

Well, we'll see.

[bbrich57]

Yup! I saw that one coming....
(rlaugh)

[JRH1]

But, how does it relearn it? It doesn't suddenly start to ignore other mods!

[JRH1]

**edit: Glitch repeated previous post...**

[bbrich57]

But, how does it relearn it? It doesn't suddenly start to ignore other mods!

As a matter of fact I, and others here too, believe that that is exactly what it does. It is designed to "compensate," within reason, for parameters outside the ones it was programed for. That's it's whole purpose. To keep you car running the way the company and the Goverment think it ought to. (i.e. pollution standards.)
I believe that unless you recurve/program ("flash") the ECU with new programing that may be what is happening. I have noticed it and so have others that have done some of these MODs.
You may feel the same after a few miles have passed. And if not, hey, more power to ya'.
But please be sure to post and let us all know what your own experiences are with it.

[JRH1]

Well, I put a couple hundred miles on (drove across the state this past weekend) and it seems to still work. I'll update back as soon as I notice it's not working any longer.

[P5ive]

Just tried this MOD. There's definitely something going on. It's more responsive. HP/Tq is the same there's just no lag now when I hit the gas. My wife noticed the car seemed 'peppier' and I didn't tell her that I did this mod so I know it's not my mind playing tricks.

update: okay now after about 300miles or so the car feels back to it's normal self. Thinking about disconnecting the battery and resetting the computer (stepping on the brake while disconnected, right?) but don't want to have to reprogram my radio stations (ughdance)

[racerboy777]

Is this something that is a problem as soon as you buy your 3? I have my 2006 M3 with about 6000 miles, and i bought it on June 18th, with 2 miles on her. I'm going to do this, but I just wanted to know if it will make a difference so soon in the car's life?

Thanks,

Josh

[thebeansoldier]

Is this something that is a problem as soon as you buy your 3?

It's a general "issue" of all ETBs (electronic throttle body) on any car. Users report a more responsive throttle and better shifting transitions after doing this.... which is basically grounding the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the TB.

[Davenow]

Ground the coilpacks as well, find the point where the negative battery cable connects to the unibody, and clean the paint from under the contact point so it is touching bare metal (smear some dielectric grease over it after you reconnect it so it doesnt corrode)

Basically you want to improve the grounding of the entire car, and randomly running grounds wont help (many people do this). You want the ground path from the important sensors and the coilpacks to have the least resistance possible. You really dont need anything heavier than 10 or even 12 gauge, but 8 gauge has the best "look" to it for most people. I typically use 12 gauge black wire to match the factory wire harnesses as close as I can. This isnt the only ground that these things have, you are only doing this to lower the resistance of the ground path, and this is only a miniscule load. Its not like this wire will be the only ground and its a 110V. Its a ground assist and its a 12V system, in fact a lot of these sensors only see 1.5-3 volts.

[AgSubmariner]

I like the mod so far. It's nothing major, but for less than $5 it's worth the difference. The throttle responds alot smoother and changes as fast as I need it to. Hopefully it will be a good assist to the CAI.

[m1ndless]

Can someone explain how this works? I plan on doing this to my 3 when I get it.

[AgSubmariner]

The throttle body on a Mazda3 is controlled by an electric servo. Since the throttle body is "floating"(meaning not hard grounded), static charges can accumulate on the TB and effect the accuracy of the servo. When you connect a ground wire, you eliminate those excess charges and allow the throttle to operated to the best of its ability. Meaning no extra power, but a throttle that moves like you want it to.

There has been talk of the computer re-learning and making up for this change. I don't think this will be an issue since the computer can't create and place a static charge on the TB. If you think that it's not working as well after a few hundred miles, you probably have just gotten used to the way it operates.

[m1ndless]

Thanks, Ill have to do that when I get my 3!

[Kloopofadown]

To whoever says that the ECU re-learns and adds the lag back in,

Why not try undoing the mod and see if there is a difference, removing 1 side of the grounding wire and temporarily ziptieing it cant be that hard now can it?
Take it for a drive, any difference?
Then redo the mod and drive.
If after that it's still laggy, then reset the ECU.

This thread definitely cleared the fog surrounding this mod for me.
After the positive results with the airbox mod, I am definitely going to try and do this to my friends 6s ATX. I will get video.

[goldstar]

The throttle body on a Mazda3 is controlled by an electric servo. Since the throttle body is "floating"(meaning not hard grounded), static charges can accumulate on the TB and effect the accuracy of the servo. When you connect a ground wire, you eliminate those excess charges and allow the throttle to operated to the best of its ability. Meaning no extra power, but a throttle that moves like you want it to.

It's true that the TB is normally ungrounded but, with all due respect, assuming that your explanation is correct, why wouldn't Mazda's engineers include a separate OEM TB ground wire to eliminate those excess static electricity charges to insure optimal throttle response? After all, the 3 has very sophisticated engine control mechanisms in place and if the simple addition of a short piece of wire would further improve driveability, surely the engineers would not have left it out. Particularly if, as it's claimed, that little length of wire makes a difference many people can discern.

Although I have a Protege, my wife has an '06 3i and I might just try the mod to see for myself if it works, although I'm highly skeptical of obtaining an improvement.

[AgSubmariner]

The engineers at Mazda are pretty good about catching things, but electronic throttle control is fairly new. Cable controlled throttles don't have this issue, so I wouldn't have though about it either.

Take a look at the engineering on the the Mazda3 trunk. It took them until the '07 models to put a handle, so you don't have to pinch your fingers under the lid. Simple thing, but just not on their minds.

[Equinox]

It's true that the TB is normally ungrounded but, with all due respect, assuming that your explanation is correct, why wouldn't Mazda's engineers include a separate OEM TB ground wire to eliminate those excess static electricity charges to insure optimal throttle response? After all, the 3 has very sophisticated engine control mechanisms in place and if the simple addition of a short piece of wire would further improve driveability, surely the engineers would not have left it out. Particularly if, as it's claimed, that little length of wire makes a difference many people can discern.

Although I have a Protege, my wife has an '06 3i and I might just try the mod to see for myself if it works, although I'm highly skeptical of obtaining an improvement.


Same reason your rear view mirror is 80mm tall instead 100mm. Because people will still buy it if we stop spending money on that part and improve the car more where people notice. :)

[definingmind]

I'll have to try this out before I head up to New York and see how it works out over the long term; roughly about 5-6k miles. I know people have repoted that the car relearns and compensates, but it just sounds like a case of getting used to the way it drives. Once I get back I'll post results. Also, wouldn't this mod technically work on the 5... or is the TB not the same as it is in the 3?

[thebeansoldier]

it should work in any ETB.

[Nutari]

no pics. :)

[Brian MP5T]

This has no practial on or off paper application.

You have added a wire and i your brain, it feels faster...

[elderlycoffee]

Noob question, Do you need to do anything before you do this so ou don't get shocked? and can teh wire heat so much it causes fire?

[goldwing2000]

Noob question, Do you need to do anything before you do this so ou don't get shocked? and can teh wire heat so much it causes fire?

No and no.

[elderlycoffee]

would you suggest a thicker gauge than the 10

[goldwing2000]

No.

The wire doesn't carry any current. It just dissipates static electricity that builds up in the plastic intake system.

[voiceKoil]

Anyone notice a difference on their MS3? Ill do it just for kicks, and I have some nifty 8awg black stinger wire that I bought and have nothing to do with! Ill say if I can feel a difference....

Though my cars been running funky, so maybe Ill wait for my purge sensor and gas cap to be replaced so I dont have a CEL that is honestly killing my cars perfomance! TAKE A CAR IN TO GET CHECKED OVER AND THEY DONT EVEN NOTICE MY CEL IS ON!!!!!!! Soon as I started driving my car I noticed and turned around and pulled right back in the service area to be told "their to busy to check the CEL now, we'll just assume whats wrong and have you come back and fix that" My car was there all day! THATS B.S.!!!!!


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2497000-2497999/2497424_57_full.jpg

[Davenow]

I know this is a doom 'n' gloom post, but don't expect it to last too long. The ECU in the 3 re-learns and compensates for it.
I was extremely happy w/this at first too, but in order for it to work consistently you have to reset the ECU about every 100 miles or so.


Actually you are wrong.

The lag was not designed into the system. The lag is a result of a VERY slight deficiency in the system, and all you do by doing this mod is strengthen the ground that is already supposed to be there. Yes an ECU can "learn" around mods, but you are not understanding how the learning process, and the goals of the ECU work. The ECU is there to (and this is grossly oversimplifying it) keep the a/f within parameters, listen for detonation< and control timing via that, in other words it gives as much timing as it can until it hears knock, then backs itself down till it doesnt hear it anymore. This is VERY largely affected by the fuel quality and air density) and keep the rest of the systems running smoothly.

If you just make a ground more solid, the ECU isnt going to really SEE any difference. All it will know is things are operating as they should have been, before you did the mod. In other words, the ecu will be blind to the fact that anything has changed. It isnt looking for the lag, so when the lag isnt there, it wont see that its gone. The bad ground isnt something the ecu is looking for to create the lag. The ecu isnt TRYING to create the lag at all. Its a result of the weak ground path.


The things an ECU can learn around, are mods that are honestly, dangerous to begin with.

Add an intake and get power and your ECU learned around it? Then you were running lean from it, and the ECU stopped you from blowing your motor up. (well, in some cases the car is programmed to run too rich to begin with, in which case you are still screwed)

Moved the timing sensor down at the crank to gain timing, and the ecu learned around it? That would mean that you gave too much timing, the ecu heard knock, and pulled timing to compensate.




Simply helping out the ground path of something on the car is NOT something the ecu will "learn around"

If anything, it would learn that now it can be slightly more agressive and give more timing. Which is often the case in cars where grounding the coilpacks yeilds power. (not all cars will see gains from that, some will). The car will often pick up a couple more hp as the ecu learns, because a stronger spark will give a very slightly higher detonation ceiling. This is all ideal situation of course.

[elderlycoffee]

can you do this on a MS3 with a mazdaspeed cai?

[goldwing2000]

If you have an ETB, you can do it.

[clos561]

do mazdaspeed3' have etb?

[MadOzodi]

An electronic throttle body? I believe so.

[clos561]

how can you tell..i would do this .. it takes like 3 dollars

[goldwing2000]

how can you tell..i would do this .. it takes like 3 dollars

Look at your throttle body. If it has a couple cables going to it, it's not electronic.
If it has like a 6-wire plug going into it (not the TPS or AIC) and a motor on the side, then it probably is.

I'm sure somebody could post up who has one but I'm 90% sure that they are ETB. All North American Mazda3 models have ETB, as far as I know.

[chowhoundMSP]

anyone try this on the speed6 yet?

[clos561]

im gona do this to my car

[BlackJack]

Yeah, I think this week, I will go out to the store and get the shit. :)

[clos561]

where the fuck is the throttle body? i tried to find it but maybe i jsut dont know what to look for....

[Rotus8]

where the fuck is the throttle body? i tried to find it but maybe i jsut dont know what to look for.... Look at the front of the engine; you will see the aluminum intake manifold bolted to the block. Now look to the right (driver's side) of the manifold and you will see an aluminum block with a black connector on it, bolted to the manifold. That's the throttle body, and you will also realize why the throttle body ground is unnecessary.

I am speaking about the speed3. I don't know about the NA ones.

[clos561]

Look at the front of the engine; you will see the aluminum intake manifold bolted to the block. Now look to the right (driver's side) of the manifold and you will see an aluminum block with a black connector on it, bolted to the manifold. That's the throttle body, and you will also realize why the throttle body ground is unnecessary.

I am speaking about the speed3. I don't know about the NA ones.
ok

[BlackJack]

Yeah, I was looking through the bay and I found the TB which is crouched pretty well in the back of the bay. If you follow the intake tubing, you'll find the intake manifold, which Rotus8 said and further down the tubing is the TB. You will also see that there is a screw popping out of the TB which you can connect with the wiring.

When I got the neccessary equipment, I found that it was going to be too much work for a little gain, so I returned everything back in 5 minutes of coming out of the store :P

[MM3Canuck]

Yeah, I was looking through the bay and I found the TB which is crouched pretty well in the back of the bay. If you follow the intake tubing, you'll find the intake manifold, which Rotus8 said and further down the tubing is the TB. You will also see that there is a screw popping out of the TB which you can connect with the wiring.

When I got the neccessary equipment, I found that it was going to be too much work for a little gain, so I returned everything back in 5 minutes of coming out of the store :P


Haha...(silly)

[BlackJack]

Lol, yeah, stupid me. I should've looked in the bay to see where it is first then decided on whether to get it or not.

Suggestion for MS3 owners: I would not get this mod as you will go through a lot of trouble for just a little gain. I would get the CAI and expensive shit other than this.

[CulRidr]

I read earlier that that non-US models have cable-throttles...so does that mean that Canadian 3s would not benefit from this? I'm asking for a buddy of mine since I own an MP3 and would obviously not benefit from this myself, and I have no idea if he has an ETB or not...

[goldwing2000]

Pretty sure all North American models are the same.

As far as I know, the only ones with cable throttles are the Euro models. And even then, I don't think they're all cable throttle, just specific engines.

[abe_man1]

i just completed the throttle body ground and i noticed a slight increase in accel and smoother shifts.

very easy to do and un-do if not satisfied with the mod.

[skyhawk]

I tried this on the Mazda5 to get the same 'change of driving feel'.

1. with engine off, turn key to on (without starting the car)
2. Step on the gas pedal until it bottoms down then release.
(take note of how fast you caused the pedal to travel down).
3. turn off the ignition key. Then drive and 'observe' the feel.

4. next time at the next corner try the above procedure again.
this time making stepping on the pedal ever so gently slowly stepping on it.
and same procedure as above.

I notice a difference in the 'feel'. Quicker pedal speed will give me
the 'throtlle body ground' effect.

[blacksheepms3]

can this be done on mazdaspeed 3? is ms3 cable driven or drive by wire? I'd like to do this to my ms3, but not sure if it will have a significant effect. I get statics touching my dirver's side door especially in the winter, would this help? since the stray static electicity is gounded?

[Rotus8]

can this be done on mazdaspeed 3? is ms3 cable driven or drive by wire? I'd like to do this to my ms3, but not sure if it will have a significant effect. I get statics touching my dirver's side door especially in the winter, would this help? since the stray static electicity is gounded?
The speed intake manifold is aluminum (NA is plastic) which solidly grounds the TB. No possible reason grounding would be necessary.

[blacksheepms3]

so is ms3 throttle body cable driven?

[Falconx84]

nope, its drive-by-wire ... its just "naturally" grounded by design

[serialtoon]

I have some left over ground wires. might as well do this :-) Also,i own a 2008 MS3 and i can pass up cars EASY on 6th gear....

[Rotus8]

I have some left over ground wires. might as well do this :-) Also,i own a 2008 MS3 and i can pass up cars EASY on 6th gear....
Throttle body grounding on a speed does absolutely nothing. The intake manifold is aluminum which provides a much better path to ground than any wires could possibly do. (The NA 3 has a plastic manifold.)

[Tronix102]

woot woot

[Frankenstein]

Nice post Rotus8. The ETB is hard to reach and other grounding locations are available. I grounded to the alternator bracket, intake manifold, and driver's side strut tower.

[avextrax]

does this work for a 2009 mazda3?

[dimaxxxl]

Gentleman,
Correct me if im wrong. Has anyone noticed that the throttle body is already grounded to the biggest ground in the car, the engine. Makes you wonder if this is just snake oil

[goldwing2000]

Intake manifold is plastic and provides no ground connection to the cylinder head or engine block.

[F430TECH]

I took goldwing2000's advice and did the tb mod but a little differently and it was real easy.
Instead of goin all the way back to the battery, I figured since the engine is a nice ground - why not use it? This is cleaner and easier. I used a short piece of monster cable and wrapped in black tape to make it blend in better. Then I bolted it to the tb and used a manifold bolt for the other end (the grounding point). Took about 15 minutes.

Uhm so you grounded it to the engine that the throttlebody was already grounded too via the bolts that run through it into the intake manifold which is then grounded to the engine block by the bolts that attach that?

Interesting....

[F430TECH]

Intake manifold is plastic and provides no ground connection to the cylinder head or engine block.

I thought Speed 3 Intake manifold is aluminium?

[Rotus8]

I thought Speed 3 Intake manifold is aluminium?
Speed3 manifold is aluminum and does a fine job of grounding. The regular 3 manifold is plastic. This HowTo section is for both cars.

[F430TECH]

Speed3 manifold is aluminum and does a fine job of grounding. The regular 3 manifold is plastic. This HowTo section is for both cars.

So why are people claiming dfference on the Speed 3 then? I mean it isinteresting and I DO plan on trying it, can' hurt after all. Plus some nice Gold plate connectors with some heat shrink? MMM yummy...

[wolverine_man]

Went to home depot this past weekend for the HD Lip and the TB Ground mods. I ended up getting 8 awg insulated wire for the hell of it and some copper terminal lugs. Overkill? Perhaps.

I definitely noticed a difference on my 2.3 in first and second gear. Winds out much better and very smoothly. Total cost on the TB kit, $4.15. I also mounted it to the lower TB bolt so the install looks cleaner.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd233/dwsanche/CIMG1547.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd233/dwsanche/CIMG1546.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd233/dwsanche/CIMG1550.jpg

[BM377]

I just ground the throttle body on both my Mazda 3 and My CX-7 and deffently felt the difference, more so in the 3. My fiance even noticed the smooth acceleration on both vehicles. Deffently worth doing! and super easy on the 3 not so much on the CX-7 its a pretty tight fit to get at the bolts.

[MazdaBoyWonder]

would it matter if use red or black 10 guage wire?

[MazdaBoyWonder]

whats the difference?

[Red08Speed3]

I dont think this makes a difference at all, I bet its a mental thing if anything

[bani]

placebo ftl

[stiv444]

gonna try it this week! we shall see!!!!!!!!!!!!(braindead

[Rotus8]

would it matter if use red or black 10 guage wire?
If you use red wire, all the electrons run from the throttle body to the ground. If you use black wire, the electrons run from the ground to the throttle body. Make sure you use the correct wire for your situation.




:rolleyes:

[MikeHTally]

If you use red wire, all the electrons run from the throttle body to the ground. If you use black wire, the electrons run from the ground to the throttle body. Make sure you use the correct wire for your situation.




:rolleyes:Funnier and funnier. Don't forget the 3' TB spacer.

[JohnBoy]

Haven't read the entire thread, but am one of those weird ones that like specifics...
Has anyone reliably confirmed any before and after statistics other than it 'feels' or 'seems' better ?

sorry if this is a repeat (bike)

[Rotus8]

Haven't read the entire thread, but am one of those weird ones that like specifics...
Has anyone reliably confirmed any before and after statistics other than it 'feels' or 'seems' better ?

No.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

If you use red wire, all the electrons run from the throttle body to the ground. If you use black wire, the electrons run from the ground to the throttle body. Make sure you use the correct wire for your situation.




:rolleyes:

You should be ashamed of yourself.







ROFLMFAO
me too.

[Rotus8]

If you use red wire, all the electrons run from the throttle body to the ground. If you use black wire, the electrons run from the ground to the throttle body. Make sure you use the correct wire for your situation.




:rolleyes:
In case I confused anyone by this post, here is how you figure it out. Take a volt meter and connect it from your throttle body to the ground post of your battery. Put the red test lead of the meter on the throttle body and the black lead on the battery. If the reading is positive, you need to use the black wire. If the reading is negative, you need to use red wire. If the reading is very close to zero, you don't need the wire at all.





:rolleyes::rolleyes:

[CHIEFSMS3]

(rofl)

[flyrevs]

would it work even better with #2 gauge wire ? less resistance so this should be better than #8

[Rotus8]

would it work even better with #2 gauge wire ? less resistance so this should be better than #8
Heck, go with AWG 4/0. It's only 0.04901 ohms per 1000 feet.





(hahaspit)

[flyrevs]

Heck, go with AWG 4/0. It's only 0.04901 ohms per 1000 feet.
(hahaspit)http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12001114/thumbs/1/tn4_1134452.jpg that's good for a low resistance / good performance gain, but it costs $8 / ft. - well you gotta pay to play so might as well go with the 4/0 and be done with it - do it right the first time(burnout)

[Amemiya]

Just finished this mod and did a little drive around, what a difference. The 3 seems much happier at around 3500 - 4000 RPM. :)

[sumixali]

huge improvement props thanks

[k2rider09]

so can I just use copper wire from home depot or something?

[Darth Vader]

It's a GROUND wire, it carries no current. I tried it with 20 gauge speaker wire. Easy to hide and, the car does seem a little smoother in throttle response. I have an MS3 and my theory is this: static buildup or EMI seems very prevalent on this car. There's hardly a day goes by it doesn't zap me when I get out of the car. EMI can have weird effects on electrical components, that's known fact. Dispersing this charge to ground hurts nothing and might help. The MS3 is aluminum manifold so, in theory, the tb should be grounded by the engine block but, aluminum is a remarkably poor conductor and gaskets interfere with the path to ground, forcing any charge to go via the bolts, into the block and out. All I've done here is make a straight, short and sure negative path to dissipate this charge buildup. Electricity will take the path of least resistance.

[hankhill11]

can anyone give me an idea of the difference this would make on an automatic? I myself have the manual, but a coworker has auto, would HE notice a difference?

[ericrapp]

I just read this whole thing. I recall when the first post came up. saw it was still alive and wondered how the story ended. Rotus, i believe that since you are the naysayer, i think Science must ask of you... Would you please try this install. Its cheap and easily reversible. For the sake of Factuality almost!?. I will probably do it for fun at some point. Maybe this weekend when i do the turbo inlet upgrade and clean the MAF. But myself, I am easily swayed by enthusiasm and could not do an unbiased report. I am quite sure i would realize some addition to performance. Much as my lightweight lug nuts do.

[dpstrand]

If this mod is done at the same time as the tinfoil hat mod you get incredible improvement, make sure to use 8 guage wire and 6 guage tinfoil.

[builthatch]

guage wire, 6 guage tinfoil.

*gauge

[skyhawk]

I've been following this thread.. I have a mazda5
one weekend I had some time and did some testing.

1. Tools used. Synchro scope. I wanted to 'probe' what is
in that electrically floating 'Throttle body assembly. With Engine Idling.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5300sm.jpg


2. Here is the waveform I got on the Throttle body.
Notice the 'cyclic' glitch or spike. very low about -10mv.. only.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5312sm.jpg


3. Then I decided to connect the throttle body to ground.
and the waveform I got is.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5307sm.jpg


I think they build the cars as it is and then
adjust the programming to tolerate these spikes.

As for the 'effect' of throttle body grounding..
-- before the throttlebody was grounded, the gas pedal is a bit 'loose'.
You can press a little bit and have to wait a while then the car goes.
It will 'slingshot' the car forward.

-- After the throttle is grounded, the feeling is like having your foot
against a wall, you push and the car moves. Just like the ordinary
cars.

I'm still not decided which one I prefer. I sort of like the
original feel.. that is without the grounding.

[Sport6]

I've been following this thread.. I have a mazda5
one weekend I had some time and did some testing.

1. Tools used. Synchro scope. I wanted to 'probe' what is
in that electrically floating 'Throttle body assembly. With Engine Idling.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5300sm.jpg


2. Here is the waveform I got on the Throttle body.
Notice the 'cyclic' glitch or spike. very low about -10mv.. only.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5312sm.jpg


3. Then I decided to connect the throttle body to ground.
and the waveform I got is.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/skyhawk/throttleground/CIMG5307sm.jpg


I think they build the cars as it is and then
adjust the programming to tolerate these spikes.

As for the 'effect' of throttle body grounding..
-- before the throttlebody was grounded, the gas pedal is a bit 'loose'.
You can press a little bit and have to wait a while then the car goes.
It will 'slingshot' the car forward.

-- After the throttle is grounded, the feeling is like having your foot
against a wall, you push and the car moves. Just like the ordinary
cars.

I'm still not decided which one I prefer. I sort of like the
original feel.. that is without the grounding.

Sweet, thanks for testing that. Good to visually see a difference and not just a butt dyno "I think i feel a difference".

[ericrapp]

That is actually quite interesting, and isn't science fun? Thanks sky hawk!

[bernie3674]

ok, the ground kit works, however, on MZ3 and MS3 I would suggest use 5 grounding points, detail on this link:http://www.flex-innovations.com/mz3_instruct.htm

I am not trying to sell anything here, I did my own grounding kit, with 8AWG wires, it works, and I Used that guide to make my own, just make sure the wire can resist heat

[ericrapp]

After reading many conflicting reports in regard to the tb ground and just having read the link you provided, i was wondering. What advantage specifically do these popular kits provide? It does appear to be a quality manufacture with good detail. Thanks

[MazdaConvert118]

Hopefully this thread is still alive. I'm kinda getting interested in this mod...

1. Is there a significant improvement using the 5-wire kit than the single wire thebeansoldier did?

2. for the single wire ground, how long does the wire have to be installed clean?

thanks

[sbowden99]

I just did the mod on my 3 (2007, AT, 5 door). I'm not convinced there's an impact. The only thing I noticed was that downshifts from 5th to 2nd are instantaneous when I bury the pedal. I THINK this is a change (improvement), but I'm not convinced.

Anyone else done this mod recently?

cheers,
--Seth

[djltoronto]

If this mod is done at the same time as the tinfoil hat mod you get incredible improvement, make sure to use 8 guage wire and 6 guage tinfoil.

Do you have a link for the tin foil hat mod?

[ericrapp]

I just did the mod on my 3 (2007, AT, 5 door). I'm not convinced there's an impact. The only thing I noticed was that downshifts from 5th to 2nd are instantaneous when I bury the pedal. I THINK this is a change (improvement), but I'm not convinced.

Anyone else done this mod recently?

cheers,
--SethFrom what we have read it may not be worth the effort in this application. But that is just an opinion.

[sbowden99]

From what we have read it may not be worth the effort in this application. But that is just an opinion.

After driving around a few days with the mod, I can state with confidence that there is no discernable difference in engine or transmission performance.

I hereby debunk the efficacy of the TB ground mod for the 2007 Mazda3 AT 2.3 liter engine.

--Seth

[rigor]

well depends if any corrosion
has a cured on the engine so i would say case by case may be no diff on some car's but ive seen tuns of vehicles that had lost ground due to the elements and causes all sorts of problems