Problem... ECU or Boost?

[SpeedBeaver]

Ok I'll begin by the beginning, this morning it was quite cold outside (living in Canada so I have crappy weather right now). I noticed a low idle when I was stopping on red lights (±600 rpm) but I tought that it was because of the weather and nothing more.

Then I took the highway and went back to my place. During the travel, I had to do a quick passing and I noticed that my engine bogged for a second.. I was like WTF was that? Then I went back to the right lane and tried again but I watched my cluster that time. So quick acceleration, let go of the gas pedal then pressed the clutch pedal to the floor. Then I saw it: The rpm went from over 3000 to ZERO and the engine stalled. The whole cluster lighted up like a freaking Christmas tree. Check engine, brake light, battery light, etc.. Then I had to restart the engine while still roling (cuz that time it didn't restarted by itself). So I spent the rest of the road doing heel-n-toes while braking so the damm engine won't stall.

I tried it again on an empty road to try to find more details so here it goes:
-over 3000 rpm to zero (stalls)
-under 3000 rpm to ±500 (near stalling)

I'm on my winter setup now: all stock except for CustomMSP's SMIC wich was too much work to remove for winter. I was running 9psi last summer so maybe my BPV is just done for. So it looks like a BPV issue but then again, the low idle could be due to the ECU not injecting enough gas.

I'm thinking of trying to reset the ECU and go for a test run but checking the BPV and vaccum/boost lines at -15 Celcius is just not possible.

So I'm asking for your toughts about all this. Any advice?

[Fudgie]

sounds like a vacuum/boost leak to me. Find somewhere warm and do a visual under the hood.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Sounds like a hose popped off.

[funktownp5]

Sounds like a hose popped off.

Yeah look for one of the IC pipes loose, one proly popped off.

[SpeedBeaver]

Ok thanks, I'll try to figure it out tomorrow. Now it's even colder :(

[Brian MP5T]

what was the A/F doing when you let off?

[SpeedBeaver]

what was the A/F doing when you let off?
Hard to say with a narrowband :( But I'll try to check that tomorrow.

[Brian MP5T]

Hard to say with a narrowband :( But I'll try to check that tomorrow.

Sometimes the Stock ECU Boggs and you will see it run a bit lean under acceleration. If it's that, Reset the ECU...

[SpeedBeaver]

Sometimes the Stock ECU Boggs and you will see it run a bit lean under acceleration. If it's that, Reset the ECU...
I'll try resetting the ECU and I'll check the hoses and BPV for leaks.

[Cusson]

Ok thanks, I'll try to figure it out tomorrow. Now it's even colder :(

It's so funny to live in Quebec !!! It was -25 Celcius with the wind near Montreal... (stoned)

[SpeedBeaver]

It's so funny to live in Quebec !!! It was -25 Celcius with the wind near Montreal... (stoned)
Tell me about it... now I'm starting to regret not taking the indoor parking for an extra 50$/month with my new appartment(wedge)

[SpeedBeaver]

UPDATE!!

I went for a ride after resetting the ECU. - No difference, it's still having the same behaviour.


what was the A/F doing when you let off?

I noticed two things while paying more attention (and by doing this at night):
-1st the A/F goes rich as hell while the engine chokes.
-2nd all the electrical systems (dash lights, heater, headlights, etc) are dimming down.

As for the hoses I checked them the best it is possible to with a flashlight and a bone-freezing wind.(ugh)

So two things remain: boost leak or maybe an alternator problem? I already got my alternator changed because it was doing a weird sound while driving.

Any new opinions about these observations?

[Chilledboost]

mine did the same thing. check the charge air cooler lines. they tend to get loose at the throttle body. also check the maf sensor. sometimes dirt manages to get its way inside.

UPDATE!!

I went for a ride after resetting the ECU. - No difference, it's still having the same behaviour.



I noticed two things while paying more attention (and by doing this at night):
-1st the A/F goes rich as hell while the engine chokes.
-2nd all the electrical systems (dash lights, heater, headlights, etc) are dimming down.

As for the hoses I checked them the best it is possible to with a flashlight and a bone-freezing wind.(ugh)

So two things remain: boost leak or maybe an alternator problem? I already got my alternator changed because it was doing a weird sound while driving.

Any new opinions about these observations?

[SpeedBeaver]

Contacted my dealer and they're gonna check my car tomorrow since I can't do it myself with the weather outside (Tightening up pipes at -20C could be a bad idea).

[SpeedBeaver]

Hum, seems the problem was not in the list above.

My primary O2 sensor on the exhaust mainfold was defective

[SpeedBeaver]

Now that's weird... I still don't have my car back: seems the TB needed to be changed too.

Just wondering: could the oem bpv have damaged the TB at 9psi last summer?

[BlkZoomZoom]

So you needed an o2 sensor, t.b. (probably for the IAC)?

Interesting. Still say its a vacuum/boost leak.

[SpeedBeaver]

So you needed an o2 sensor, t.b. (probably for the IAC)?

Interesting. Still say its a vacuum/boost leak.
I checked my boost gauge while testing it: it's holding steady at 7psi without dropping. The only leak possible would be at the oem bpv when I let off the throttle, but I could be wrong...

[igdrasil]

you can still boost 7psi with leaks, but the turbo would be spinning faster.

Check the MAF and check for leaks

[SpeedBeaver]

Dealer just called back:
-MAF is fine
-New throttle body
-EGR was tested ok
-New BPV

Still the problem is persisting. The dealer asked me if I've been modding it (except for the gauges right now my car is stock - winter setup).

I'm tinking about leaks too but the problems only appeared lately and my gauges have been in place since a year so I'm very doubtful about leaks for the boost gauge... What else could leak?

[SpeedBeaver]

I'm starting to wonder if the guys who installed my CompuStar alarm could've messed up something (boom07)

[peepsalot]

Check the snugness of all intake/intercooler piping junctions.
Checklist:
1) Intake to turbo
2) Turbo compressor to hot IC pipe
3) hot IC pipe to IC
4) IC to cold pipe
5) cold pipe to TB

As far as the "lighting up like a christmas tree", this is just what happens when your engine stalls, just like when you first put your keys in to start the engine.

[SpeedBeaver]

Check the snugness of all intake/intercooler piping junctions.
Checklist:
1) Intake to turbo
2) Turbo compressor to hot IC pipe
3) hot IC pipe to IC
4) IC to cold pipe
5) cold pipe to TB


I tighten them all last saturday and it didn't changed anything.

[igdrasil]

How about the O2 sensor?

[SpeedBeaver]

Intake or exhaust?
Primary o2 sensor on exhaust has been changed already.

[igdrasil]

You may also check the manifold to turbo gasket is leaking, start the car, with your hand close to the division where the gasket is placed, accelerate the car a few times, if its too hot, use a hose and your ear.

[SpeedBeaver]

You may also check the manifold to turbo gasket is leaking, start the car, with your hand close to the division where the gasket is placed, accelerate the car a few times, if its too hot, use a hose and your ear.
I'm gonna tell them to check for leaks...

Could a jammed cat do this?
Funny thing is that there is no check engine light so they have no lead at all.

(deadhorse

[Fudgie]

Whats your short and long term fuel trim readings?

[SpeedBeaver]

Well, extreme situations calls for extreme mesures!!

Next monday a bran new ECU is gonna be in the car (boom07)
They will also check the turbo mainfold for leaks and the cats for jams...

[peepsalot]

lol, i doubt a new ECU will do shit, but good luck.

[Cusson]

You'll finish with a speed rebuilt !!! (boom07)

[Brian MP5T]

Plugged cat will be a constant problem.

[SpeedBeaver]

Plugged cat will be a constant problem.
Yeah I know, I was planning to get rid of the cats in late spring/early summer. But that is IF they can get the car running before then. What happens if a dealer can't fix a problem? They call a "super tech" higher in hierarchy?

[igdrasil]

Yeah I know, I was planning to get rid of the cats in late spring/early summer. But that is IF they can get the car running before then. What happens if a dealer can't fix a problem? They call a "super tech" higher in hierarchy?

they will offer you a NEON

[SpeedBeaver]

Well I was expecting it: the new ECU didn't do shit.

Dealer is now checking for leaks or bottlenecked cat.

[peepsalot]

do you get to keep the old ECU? (naughty)

[SpeedBeaver]

do you get to keep the old ECU? (naughty)
Lol you know dealers, if the part got replaced and that didn't solved the problem they return it back :(

I'm giving them until friday then I'm sending an email directly to Mazda Canada so one of their "super tech" gets working on my car.
I'm starting to be realy pissed. I'm going to pay my car payment for the full month but I will only have it for half of it if it or less if they don't find the problem by friday.

(bang)

[smo0f]

at least the dealership is helpful. i'm sure the problem will get solved, but if they have the car for a long time, and attempt to fix the same problem more than once, look up the local laws regarding lemon cars. unless you don't care about the waiting. wondering why the dealership changed the ecu first before checking for leaks or the cat, weird.

[SpeedBeaver]

I just called them. They told me that the Instructor in chief of Mazda Canada is on my case. He sent them a new coldpipe to try and see if it solves the problem. Belive me if it's the plastic pipes that caused the problem I'm gonna put some hardpipes in there as soon as I get my car back!

While they wait for that, I told them to hook off my boost gauge from the vaccum line... can't belive I'm looking for a solution there!

[BlkZoomZoom]

The new cold pipe is because they found the vacuum/boost leak. Probably the nipple for the bpv was loose/cracked.

[SpeedBeaver]

The new cold pipe is because they found the vacuum/boost leak. Probably the nipple for the bpv was loose/cracked.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the nipple for the BPV isn't on the cold-pipe. It's between the intake and the hot-pipe. So maybe the leak is at the joint just before the TB (that little plastic bracket glued in the pipe to support something...). (part #31 on the picture below)

http://www.mazdatuning.com/guides/pro_3e_gen/Documents_Mazda/Catalogue_des_pieces/MAZDASPEED_PARTS_CODED.jpg

[BlkZoomZoom]

You are correct. Still from a leak more than likely.

[HASE]

Ok I'll begin by the beginning, this morning it was quite cold outside (living in Canada so I have crappy weather right now). I noticed a low idle when I was stopping on red lights (±600 rpm) but I tought that it was because of the weather and nothing more.

Then I took the highway and went back to my place. During the travel, I had to do a quick passing and I noticed that my engine bogged for a second.. I was like WTF was that? Then I went back to the right lane and tried again but I watched my cluster that time. So quick acceleration, let go of the gas pedal then pressed the clutch pedal to the floor. Then I saw it: The rpm went from over 3000 to ZERO and the engine stalled. The whole cluster lighted up like a freaking Christmas tree. Check engine, brake light, battery light, etc.. Then I had to restart the engine while still roling (cuz that time it didn't restarted by itself). So I spent the rest of the road doing heel-n-toes while braking so the damm engine won't stall.

I tried it again on an empty road to try to find more details so here it goes:
-over 3000 rpm to zero (stalls)
-under 3000 rpm to ±500 (near stalling)

I'm on my winter setup now: all stock except for CustomMSP's SMIC wich was too much work to remove for winter. I was running 9psi last summer so maybe my BPV is just done for. So it looks like a BPV issue but then again, the low idle could be due to the ECU not injecting enough gas.

I'm thinking of trying to reset the ECU and go for a test run but checking the BPV and vaccum/boost lines at -15 Celcius is just not possible.

So I'm asking for your toughts about all this. Any advice?

I just got my car back from the dealer. I had pretty much the same problems that you were having. Stalling, and would not hold an idle to save it's life! On my car it was 2 issues. 1st Vaccum leak due to Faulty EGR Valve. (valve was stuck open so they replaced both the valve and gasket). 2. I had a K&N and the MAF Wire was dirty (from the oil on the filter). They cleaned the MAF with electrical cleaner. Runs like a top now!

[Brian MP5T]

Yes the MAF is a very sensitive device..

[SpeedBeaver]

Yes the MAF is a very sensitive device..
Already tried to put in a new MAF.

[Brian MP5T]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the nipple for the BPV isn't on the cold-pipe. It's between the intake and the hot-pipe. So maybe the leak is at the joint just before the TB (that little plastic bracket glued in the pipe to support something...). (part #31 on the picture below)

http://www.mazdatuning.com/guides/pro_3e_gen/Documents_Mazda/Catalogue_des_pieces/MAZDASPEED_PARTS_CODED.jpg

You really should put the author of the original drawing up there to make everyone happy.






P.S. I did that drawing with color in 2003 when the MSP was BRAND NEW.. :)

[SpeedBeaver]

You really should put the author of the original drawing up there to make everyone happy.






P.S. I did that drawing with color in 2003 when the MSP was BRAND NEW.. :)
Lol I didn't knew who did that drawing, saw it on a thread and saved it a year ago.

[Brian MP5T]

If you want, send me your E-Mail. I made a nicer less Hacked One..

[MazdaGecko]

Beaver i know mine isnt a Mazdaspeed but i had the same issue 2 years ago....

Stopping at a red light... pressing the clutch... idle fall to 0 and car stalled...
It had nothing to do with boost leak on mine for sure.... took it to a dealer

Problem: ERG valve problem... was stuck open.... was replaced NOT UNDER WARRANTY (deadhorse and car ran like new after replacing it!

I wish i could return in the past just to clean that EGR valve and fix the problem instead of paying 380$cad for a new one...

SO my question: Has EGR valve been checked?

Can't wait to see what was wrong on you msp! Best of luck!

[SpeedBeaver]

SO my question: Has EGR valve been checked?


They said they checked it.

[HASE]

They said they checked it.

I know that on mine, they tried everything else first to no avail. I had checked everything for a vaccum leak and it was all tight. No codes pointed to the EGR. Then a second Mechanic looked at it and stated that he had seen a bad EGR cause the same problem. He tore it all apart and upon removal, determined it to be bad. You might want to check with them to see if they have gone that far with it.

[jeffmsp]

i just finished fixing a mx3 with a similar problem. It turned out the vacume solenoid that activated the EGR had a loose vac line so the solenoid was not functioning properly, i replaced the line and zip tied both ends tight and it works fine now. Owner said it didnt start happening until it got cold, we are in canada also. I would check and recheck absolutely anything vacume related to the vehicle. does your gauge have boost and vac? what vac are you reading?

[SpeedBeaver]

i just finished fixing a mx3 with a similar problem. It turned out the vacume solenoid that activated the EGR had a loose vac line so the solenoid was not functioning properly, i replaced the line and zip tied both ends tight and it works fine now. Owner said it didnt start happening until it got cold, we are in canada also. I would check and recheck absolutely anything vacume related to the vehicle. does your gauge have boost and vac? what vac are you reading?

My boost and vac were ok: 20-22 in and 7 psi.

[jeffmsp]

weird. you try letting the dealer drive the car? they should be able to figure it out. if not head over to westowne mazda. ask for niki, tell him jeff from APA (automobile protection association) sent you and explain whats up. one of the mechanics there works on a fully built speed (has everything, i mean everything) that he claims runs 12s and faster on the street. he is named mooed i think.very intelligent mechanic. he doesnt used message boards or the net really. but ive heard alot about his speed from several guys there. one of them took a boot in my car when i was running 14psi spike down to 12ish at redline and he said that i would not have even be able to keep up with the guy, not even close and i figured she was moving pretty good so he must be really fast. built motor, custom IM, EM, T3/T4 etc.

[SpeedBeaver]

weird. you try letting the dealer drive the car? they should be able to figure it out. if not head over to westowne mazda. ask for niki, tell him jeff from APA (automobile protection association) sent you and explain whats up. one of the mechanics there works on a fully built speed (has everything, i mean everything) that he claims runs 12s and faster on the street. he is named mooed i think.very intelligent mechanic. he doesnt used message boards or the net really. but ive heard alot about his speed from several guys there. one of them took a boot in my car when i was running 14psi spike down to 12ish at redline and he said that i would not have even be able to keep up with the guy, not even close and i figured she was moving pretty good so he must be really fast. built motor, custom IM, EM, T3/T4 etc.
Thanks for the help but I will not take my car (wich is running like a bit*h right now) from Montreal to Toronto. I have to do heels-n-toe on every stop or red light so he damm thing won't stall.


Brian, you've got PM

[Brian MP5T]

Oui, Ce Soir.

[SpeedBeaver]

Oui, Ce Soir.
Lol I didn't tought you spoke french. Then again you must have fench students in the army.

[Brian MP5T]

Lol I didn't tought you spoke french. Then again you must have fench students in the army.

Je vien de Montreal, "Baby"

[jeffmsp]

haha sorry didnt realize you are in montreal. that guy with the fast MSP is in Oshawa, but works in tdot. still too far lol do you know any local msps? try switching to their BPV to see if thats the problem. Are you getting excessive turkey? Is the valve backwards? There is a arrow on it showing which way to put it.

[SpeedBeaver]

haha sorry didnt realize you are in montreal. that guy with the fast MSP is in Oshawa, but works in tdot. still too far lol do you know any local msps? try switching to their BPV to see if thats the problem. Are you getting excessive turkey? Is the valve backwards? There is a arrow on it showing which way to put it.
What I did so far:
checked every vaccum line
checked all the pipes on the turbo system for leaks
took my CustomMSP SMIC out and putted my OEM smic in.

What the dealer did so far:
changed the MAF
changed the BPV
changed the TB
changed the primary O2 sensor on the mainfold
changed the ECU
checked the cats for bottlenecks
checked the mainfold for leaks
rechecked the vaccum lines
rechecked the pipes
checked the EGR (dunno at what extent they did)


And yeah, I know lots of local msps. I'm co-admin on a french canadian forum (www.mazdatuning.com)

[jeffmsp]

idle control motor? did you try adjusting your idle to say 1000rpm and then seeing if the car stalls shifting from 3k to neutral?

[peepsalot]

Did they test for a hole in the IC?
Edit: nevermind, just read you swapped it.

[SpeedBeaver]

I called my dealer just before leaving work. Turns out they just checked the EGR valve by looking at it... so I pleaded my case based on your comments and I told them to test the EGR better. Since they had one in stock they are gonna try to put it in tomorrow. Hope it works cuz I'm out of patience.

[boostisgood]

What I did so far:
checked every vaccum line
checked all the pipes on the turbo system for leaks
took my CustomMSP SMIC out and putted my OEM smic in.

What the dealer did so far:
changed the MAF
changed the BPV
changed the TB
changed the primary O2 sensor on the mainfold
changed the ECU
checked the cats for bottlenecks
checked the mainfold for leaks
rechecked the vaccum lines
rechecked the pipes
checked the EGR (dunno at what extent they did)


And yeah, I know lots of local msps. I'm co-admin on a french canadian forum (www.mazdatuning.com) (http://www.mazdatuning.com))

Get your car out of that dealership ASAP. apparantly they dont know shit. FIRST, Ecu's RARELY and I mean RARELY go bad, second, 02 sensor, same thing.

It looks to me, they are just changing parts to see if they can get the problem to go away instead of really Troubleshooting it.

All they need to do is drive the damn car with a scantool and see whats going on in the data stream. Especially if it stalls, they should have a freeze frame of that very instant of whats going, and could be causing your issue.

Im sorry your having such an issue, but seriously, look for another service department at another dealership to look at your car. Also, get Mazda to pay for the tow there.

(please dont think Im flaming you because I am not. I feel for you, and it sucks that these techs cant even properly troubleshoot your issue. Thus causing you to not have your car for this ammount of time) :D

[smo0f]

dude, they owe you a new car. sounds like it's a lemon

[jeffmsp]

try adjusting your idle higher to 900-1Krpm to see if it stalls.

[boostisgood]

How do you adjust idle when its computer controlled ?

EDIT: While looking on Mitchells and AllData, I found no adjustments for idle speed.

[SpeedBeaver]

How to go from total happyness to totally pissed in one hour!!

1st: you get a call early in the afternoon to tell you that you car is finally fixed!!
2nd: you drive home to get your car before the dealer closes and get you car back. You give back the 2.0L mazda3 they gave you. They lock the place after you leave.
3rd: you drive home with a huge smile on your face and can't recreate the issue.
4th: you have dinner then you go shopping a little.
5th: you have to stop at a freakin red light and the car nearly stalls!!!!!
6th: you test it again: acceleration, clutch and wait until the rpms drop to a near 0.

So it's going back to the dealer on monday I guess.

I realy am pissed you can't imagine how!!

[Brian MP5T]

Just, wait, the ECU is probably relearning...

[SpeedBeaver]

Just, wait, the ECU is probably relearning...
Gonna give it a day or so. I have to drive back to Montreal tomorrow. We'll how it does on a long ride.

Plus the fact of taking out CustomMSP's upgraded SMIC is showing. I feel the difference. And I don't know if my ECU has been reflashed since they replaced it.

[Zhan]

How do you adjust idle when its computer controlled ?

EDIT: While looking on Mitchells and AllData, I found no adjustments for idle speed.
There's a screw in the engine bay (near the throttle body?) I think.

[Brian MP5T]

There's a screw in the engine bay (near the throttle body?) I think.

Do Not Ever touch that screw. It is set at the factory in Hiroshima and is not an adjustment for the idle. There is an auto adjuster built into the TB and whatever is causing it to malfunction will simply relearn the new setting and the problem will instantly manifest itself again until it is fixed..

[igdrasil]

changed and checked parts but no pressure test, man you may have all pipes checked ok but it may expand, leak some boost and stall when releasing the pedal. Even the intercooler may have developed a crack. Those cracks on intercooler and pipes are invisible unless you bend them or do a pressure test.

[SpeedBeaver]

Does anyone have the TSB for the EGR valve?

I'd like to check something. Thanks.

[SpeedBeaver]

Well, the car went back to the dealer this morning to the service department surprise. They FINALY agreeded to look at the freakin EGR valve. I had a call late today from the senior tech and he told me it was indeed the EGR that was defective. They are gonna replace it tomorrow since they didn't had the time to do it today.

I'm still waiting to see if this will fix the problem. (I'm still on my guard after everything they went trough to "repair" my car).

I'll update this thread when I'll have the final results.

Thank you everybody for your imput.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Get your car out of that dealership ASAP. apparantly they dont know shit. FIRST, Ecu's RARELY and I mean RARELY go bad, second, 02 sensor, same thing.

It looks to me, they are just changing parts to see if they can get the problem to go away instead of really Troubleshooting it.

All they need to do is drive the damn car with a scantool and see whats going on in the data stream. Especially if it stalls, they should have a freeze frame of that very instant of whats going, and could be causing your issue.

Im sorry your having such an issue, but seriously, look for another service department at another dealership to look at your car. Also, get Mazda to pay for the tow there.

(please dont think Im flaming you because I am not. I feel for you, and it sucks that these techs cant even properly troubleshoot your issue. Thus causing you to not have your car for this ammount of time) :D

It sounds like they have a newbie working on your car.
I will say that I have replaced 2 ecu's in the past 3weeks, all of which fixed the problems.

Good luck.

[BlkZoomZoom]

How do you adjust idle when its computer controlled ?

EDIT: While looking on Mitchells and AllData, I found no adjustments for idle speed.

There is a procedure to set the idle. You use the wds and jump a couple pins on the diag. port. If you know what you are doing its pretty easy. However that would be a bandaid and not fixing the actual problem.

[SpeedBeaver]

Should get my car back tomorrow and I'll test it hard just to be sure.

[jeffmsp]

i hope it works out for you, like i said i had the exact same problem with my buddies mx3, it was the egr as well. let us know how it goes.

[SpeedBeaver]

let us know how it goes.
Will do

[SpeedBeaver]

I'LL BE DAMMED!

They changed the EGR today. The problem is still persisting!!!
They took a series of mesurements and diagnostics and they sent them to the head technician of Mazda Canada in Toronto. I should hear from them tomorrow.
I'm starting to think I did a great move buying the replacement warranty when I bought the car. Never tought I'd need it though.

[boostisgood]

There is a procedure to set the idle. You use the wds and jump a couple pins on the diag. port. If you know what you are doing its pretty easy. However that would be a bandaid and not fixing the actual problem.

Thanks for the input Blk :D I knew there had to be a way with the WDS, and agree it would be a "bandaid"

I also agree that it seems a "new or fresh" tech is doing the Diag. Could be a trainee for a mazdaspeed tech, who knows. It just sucks when its your car, or someone you know.

SpeedBeaver, hit me on AIM at hkspimpster. I wanna ask you some questions, and possibly point you to someone in the Mazdaspeed tech dept at Mazda NA

Craig

[SpeedBeaver]

Thanks for the input Blk :D I knew there had to be a way with the WDS, and agree it would be a "bandaid"

I also agree that it seems a "new or fresh" tech is doing the Diag. Could be a trainee for a mazdaspeed tech, who knows. It just sucks when its your car, or someone you know.

SpeedBeaver, hit me on AIM at hkspimpster. I wanna ask you some questions, and possibly point you to someone in the Mazdaspeed tech dept at Mazda NA

Craig
I'll do tonight. Can't install AIM at work.

Anyways, I'm gonna write an email to Mazda Canada during lunch time. I'm gonna point out the fact that making a monthly payment for a car that was under repair that whole month is kinda silly. Repair it or make me an offer on another model but do something. Up to last Friday they had spent 20h on the car.

I'm realy pissed off. I suspended all of my mods research until my car is fixed. (had a Reflex diverter valve and a DSM AFC comming in already...) I hope I'll don't have to sell them back.

Dammit (rant)

[SpeedBeaver]

Just sent an email to Mazda Canada about my problem. Told em to fix it or I'll use my full value warranty to change it for something else. Hope they react to my email.(rant)

[jeffmsp]

if they arent of any help i work for the automobile protection association. if mazda is still unable to fix your car then i can help you prepare your case if you are interested in going through camvap process to try and get a replacement vehicle, or if you are looking to sue them. did you buy the car new? how long have you had the car? heres my works site. www.apa.ca we are a non profit group and deal with cases like yours on a daily basis. we are pretty much the automobile consumer watchdog for canda. you may also want to take a look at camvaps website. the only downside is that if they rule against you, then you no longer have the right to sue mazda. if you have any questions about your options give me a call 416-204-1444 and ask to speak with jeff.

[SpeedBeaver]

if they arent of any help i work for the automobile protection association. if mazda is still unable to fix your car then i can help you prepare your case if you are interested in going through camvap process to try and get a replacement vehicle, or if you are looking to sue them. did you buy the car new? how long have you had the car? heres my works site. www.apa.ca (http://www.apa.ca) we are a non profit group and deal with cases like yours on a daily basis. we are pretty much the automobile consumer watchdog for canda. you may also want to take a look at camvaps website. the only downside is that if they rule against you, then you no longer have the right to sue mazda. if you have any questions about your options give me a call 416-204-1444 and ask to speak with jeff.

Bought it new (it was in the showroom acutaly) in April 2004. Also took the optional full value replacement warranty when I bought it. The car is still under warranty. I'm giving hem until next monday to fix it.

Fresh news: they disconnected the A/F gauge and they are looking at the wiring... trying to find an electrical problem.

[BlkZoomZoom]

That would be funny as hell. Your a/f gauge throwing enough resistance in the O2 harness to throw it off. It would suck for you, funny for me. lol

[SpeedBeaver]

Well I talked to the tech at my dealer. They were looking into electrical problems and it seems they found it, while they took a look at my spark plugs they realized that they were black as night. My fuel pump relay was defective (so they say again). They tested my car today and all seems to be in order now. They are gonna test it more tomorrow and if everything is ok I'll finaly have it back.

Just wondering on a theorical point of view, if the fuel pump relay was defective could the fact of pumping too much gaz choke the engine on idle?

[BlkZoomZoom]

bullshit. They found something they missed and should have found a long time ago. Or they are saving your ass because they found something wrong that couldn't be warrantied and blamed it on something.

[SpeedBeaver]

bullshit. A) They found something they missed and should have found a long time ago. B) Or they are saving your ass because they found something wrong that couldn't be warrantied and blamed it on something.

I think it's more A than B... I pretty sure that they are so fed up of my car that they would be pleased to charge me the time they spend on it if it was my fault.

[BlkZoomZoom]

lol. It would also be against the law.

The fuel pump relay is simply that. It gets the signal to close the contacts from the ignition switch to allow voltage to go to the fuel pump. It is not duty cycled nor does it have varying voltages (in a MSP, newer mazdas do though). It is on or it isn't, the car is running or it isn't.

[SpeedBeaver]

LOL

I just did a quick evaluation... So far they must have changed parts for ±$700 cnd and spent about 26-28h at $60cnd/h on my car... That makes about $2300cnd so far! God bless warranty!!

[BlkZoomZoom]

By the list you gave its at least 1500-2000 in parts. You should ask them what actually fixed it when you pick it up. I'm curious.

[SpeedBeaver]

By the list you gave its at least 1500-2000 in parts. You should ask them what actually fixed it when you pick it up. I'm curious.
So do I. I'll post the details as soon as I get it back.

[SpeedBeaver]

LOL this was so predictible... problem is not totaly gone. The stalling is gone when the engine is warm but it still stalls when the engine is cold (wow they actualy inversed the problem... before it was only stalling once warm!!)

They'll never cease to amaze me!

(on the surface I laugh but deep down inside I'm mad..)

[BlkZoomZoom]

Your not the type of guy that hears a squeak when they go to (40mph, hit the brakes, hit the gas, downshift, turn the radio on, roll down the window, and then turn right) and then continually repeat the sequence just to hear the noise and drive themselves bonkers are you?
Does it actually stall when normal driving or do you know what sequence of events to do to make it stall, then repeat them?

For example I have this customer with a new jetta complaining when he shifts into neutral while coasting down a hill at 40-45mph the rpms will go to 2k then come back down to idle (its an automatic). I have tried to tell him that its a normal char. for a drive-by-wire system and to stop shifting it into neutral. He continues to do it and he wants to trade the car in because it drives him nuts.

[SpeedBeaver]

Your not the type of guy that hears a squeak when they go to (40mph, hit the brakes, hit the gas, downshift, turn the radio on, roll down the window, and then turn right) and then continually repeat the sequence just to hear the noise and drive themselves bonkers are you?
Does it actually stall when normal driving or do you know what sequence of events to do to make it stall, then repeat them?

For example I have this customer with a new jetta complaining when he shifts into neutral while coasting down a hill at 40-45mph the rpms will go to 2k then come back down to idle (its an automatic). I have tried to tell him that its a normal char. for a drive-by-wire system and to stop shifting it into neutral. He continues to do it and he wants to trade the car in because it drives him nuts.
Normal driving. The damm thing was stalling when I was braking to do a stop. Imagine the nightmare in a 30 min traffic jam... heels-n-toes like crazy!!(eek2)

[SpeedBeaver]

22th day. Car still at the dealer...

Got a call from a PR guy from Mazda Canada asking if I could have done any modifications to the car... told him that except the boost and a/f gauge and the shortened shifter my car is stock.

This afternoon my service rep. called and asked if I added a resistor when I installed my CAI in the summer... WTF? Why would I install a resistance?

Looks like I'll have a new engine if things keep going that way.

[BlkZoomZoom]

What? Wait, you have a CAI on?

[SpeedBeaver]

What? Wait, you have a CAI on?
Nope, had one until November... If I had kept it on I would've had fuel cut like crazy.

The only aftermarket stuff on the car (winter setup) is my kartboy short shifter, boost gauge, a/f gauge. That's it.

[ChopstickHero]

i actually read this whole thread... sorry about your troubles.

do you know any mechanics outside the dealership? have you thought about taking it to them to check out?

[SpeedBeaver]

i actually read this whole thread... sorry about your troubles.

do you know any mechanics outside the dealership? have you thought about taking it to them to check out?
I'm actualy starting to think about it a lot. I'll give them another week to see what they are gonna try.

There is always that small part of me that hopes they won't be able to fix it and they'll cut me a deal on a rx-8 or ms6... just for the kicks. But I think my MSP is the best choice for me right now (insurance fees, parking, etc..)

[SpeedBeaver]

Looks like they found it for real this time.

In november I had a compustar remote starter/alarm installed on my car. The tech who installed it tapped a wire on the injector cable directly. Seems that this is what was frying the ECUs (yeah there is a S.. now on my 3rd ecu).

The dealer disconnected the remote start from the injector and the break pedal. No stalling for two days now. I'm gonna be albe to get my car back tomorrow.

I got a warning that Mazda won't lift a finger for me if I ever come back with the remote start plugged directly on the injector instead of the fuse box like they do on OEM remote starters. They are gonna do me a paper saying that if the guys installing the remote starter ever reinstall it on that location and the problem comes back, they will be held responsible for the damages on the car and therefore will have to pay for the parts/installation time to fix it.

As for me, I'm gonna contact the shop that did my install and they'll have to wire it back but in the fuse box that time and if my car has problems again, they'll have to pay for getting it fixed.

[BlkZoomZoom]

So all along it wasn't Mazdas problem. Go figure.

[SpeedBeaver]

So all along it wasn't Mazdas problem. Go figure.
Well I'm not sure of that. I think it was all bullshit. You see, the problem is back (2 weeks later), I have the CEL on and the f***ing car is near chocking (0rpm and restarts by itself) again. I really am pissed! Not only did I have to freeze my ass for the past 2 weeks since my remote start was unplugged but the freakin car is not fixed! That bitch is going back to the dealer this afternoon... I'm starting to serioustly think about changing my car now.
(deadhorse

[MazdaGecko]

Open IM... unscrew a few VICS screw and go take a ride and listen carfully the carnage! enjoy your new motor! Then hope your problem is fixed with this new motor! ;)

But i doubt it will change something since the problem isnt from the block but i had to be evil this morning! (laugh)

Hope your dealer will shift in 3rd gear about this problem and take care a little bit of you (humpleg) cuz i dont really like the idea of speedbeaver leaving Mazda community since your doing so much for it!

Feedback plz Dom!

[BlkZoomZoom]

Well I'm not sure of that. I think it was all bullshit. You see, the problem is back (2 weeks later), I have the CEL on and the f***ing car is near chocking (0rpm and restarts by itself) again. I really am pissed! Not only did I have to freeze my ass for the past 2 weeks since my remote start was unplugged but the freakin car is not fixed! That bitch is going back to the dealer this afternoon... I'm starting to serioustly think about changing my car now.
(deadhorse

It didn't have a cel before. More than likely another problem.

[SpeedBeaver]

It didn't have a cel before. More than likely another problem.
I took my car to another dealer... more COMPETENT.

The CEL was caused by missing vaccum lines that the technician forgot to put back when he gave me my car back... (deadhorse
They also forgot to reflash my newly replaced ECU wich caused hesitation when I was driving.

Later on... (3 days later) they finaly found the source of the stalling: one of the turbo pipes was cracked... so when cold, the leak was sealed because the pipes were shrinked... once the engine was warm, the leak reopened because of thermal expansion and make the car choke everytime (well almost) I left off the gas pedal and pressed the clutch.

THE FREAKIN PROBLEM HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH MY REMOTE STARTER... AND I FROZE MY ASS 2 WEEKS AT -20C FOR NOTHING!! They are gonna re-wire it back belive me!

As for now: I'm definitely getting hardpipes, no less.

Thank you all for your help in this messy adventure.

Dominic / SpeedBeaver

[peepsalot]

So it was a boost leak all along. How surprising... (chair)

[BlkZoomZoom]

Don't believe it.

[Brian MP5T]

Agreed..

[SpeedBeaver]

Don't believe it.
You doubt the problem will be fixed? I kinda am a little too... Well, we'll see once I get the car back.

[SpeedBeaver]

Just to give everyone an update... it's been 3 weeks now on the new hot-pipe and the car is running #1... it was a boost leak (bpv nipple)... Can't belive I actualy told them to check that first but they missed it...

[bazooka joe]

happy, happy, happy:)

[SpeedBeaver]

happy, happy, happy:)

yeah happy the car runs... REALLY NOT HAPPY about my car spending 6 weeks at the dealer for a leakin pipe + remote starter unpluged and then half plugged back... these idiots forgot to hook back the brake wires so I had troubble shutting down the car...

[bazooka joe]

yeah happy the car runs... REALLY NOT HAPPY about my car spending 6 weeks at the dealer for a leakin pipe + remote starter unpluged and then half plugged back... these idiots forgot to hook back the brake wires so I had troubble shutting down the car...

(chair) ah...water over the dam...enjoy the "new" ride!!:)