Any MS6 Problems?

[Rainman]

So as not to clutter up FX-Man's post on his loss of power, I am starting this thread to capture comments from anyone with an MS6 who is experiencing problems. I do not want this to be a bitch and whine thread. Rather I would prefer this to be an informative thread to chronicle significant problems to allow us to determine how best to avoid these issues or to address them when they arise. Gotta give props to seansw and Antoine for the idea for this thread.

Although I am open to suggestions, I think that it would be easiest to keep posts short and descriptive using the following format:

Posting ID:
Model:
Duration Owned:
Mileage:
Mods:
Fuel Octane Used:
Problem:
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:
Steps Taken to Address Problem:
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status:
Future Plans:

If members think that this is worthwhile perhaps we could have the mods make this a sticky. We could set it up something like the list in the MSP section.

Myself, I have not had any problems with my MS6 other than ice getting under the tint on the driver's window. I wouldn't consider this a problem with the car...just the tinter. Other than that my MS6 has been rock solid.

Hope that this list is not to long...LOL!

R

[seanmcsean]

good thread.. sticky'd

[Antoine]

(cool) deal Rainman...MODS make sure this thread stays on topic and free of BS! Thanks :D

[ATE BALLER]

I dropped a K&N in the air box and it seems to be just fine. K&N hasn't made the model specific filter yet, but I sized one up and it fits perfect. It's filter #33-2145-1. I also modified the air dam and innercooler shroud a little to protect the innercooler. I noticed the innercooler was getting some damaged due to the gapping wide stock thick, plastic mesh. I cut out that mesh, then took some thinner, smaller aluminum mesh and wraped the air inlets of the air dam to keep the rocks, leaves, bugs, ect away from the innercooler. I'm lookin' for a set of hard pipes to redo the plumbing, but I havn't had any luck.

[ferdinand]

No problems with mine and I have had it for almost a month. I also put in the K&N filter (same size as the 6i's filter).

Ate Baller - are you concerned that the mesh might disrupt airflow to the intercooler? I was actually considering taking the plastic mesh off the intercooler completely, but if you are seeing damage already...I might not.

[ATE BALLER]

I think the plastic was much more restrictive of the air flow, being that it was right on top of the innercooler.The way I've done it, the protection rests about two feet from the innercooler, so it is not to impede air fow at all really; and with the new mesh being a much finer gauge and with much finer holes, less crap is gonna get sucked through that air-dam right to the innercooler. By the way, what part # was your filter?

[ferdinand]

I think the plastic was much more restrictive of the air flow, being that it was right on top of the innercooler.The way I've done it, the protection rests about two feet from the innercooler, so it is not to impede air fow at all really; and with the new mesh being a much finer gauge and with much finer holes, less crap is gonna get sucked through that air-dam right to the innercooler. By the way, what part # was your filter?
Don't know what the part number is - I don't have the box anymore. I do remember ordering the 6i replacment panel filter and it fit right into place.

[Da 6]

K&N panel filter part # for 6i is 33-2279 (http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilters/details?part_num=33-2279&products=1&ajr_skey=7f19926cd1ef76dc985cdbc872f660ba) Local shop here sells that for $70 USD

[ATE BALLER]

Damn, mine was only like $40 or $45. It's model #33-2145-1 and it was a little tight, but no evidence that it will function improperly.

[Da 6]

Time, dataloging and used oil analasis can tell.

[ferdinand]

So as not to clutter up FX-Man's post on his loss of power, I am starting this thread to capture comments from anyone with an MS6 who is experiencing problems. I do not want this to be a bitch and whine thread. Rather I would prefer this to be an informative thread to chronicle significant problems to allow us to determine how best to avoid these issues or to address them when they arise. Gotta give props to seansw and Antoine for the idea for this thread.

Although I am open to suggestions, I think that it would be easiest to keep posts short and descriptive using the following format:

Posting ID:
Model:
Duration Owned:
Mileage:
Mods:
Fuel Octane Used:
Problem:
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:
Steps Taken to Address Problem:
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status:
Future Plans:

If members think that this is worthwhile perhaps we could have the mods make this a sticky. We could set it up something like the list in the MSP section.

Myself, I have not had any problems with my MS6 other than ice getting under the tint on the driver's window. I wouldn't consider this a problem with the car...just the tinter. Other than that my MS6 has been rock solid.

Hope that this list is not to long...LOL!

R

I had an issue with power loss on the way to work this morning. In hindsight, I may have had this issue once before where I felt the car felt sluggish, but since I installed a boost gauge over the weekend, I was able to see that there was a definate boost related power loss with the car. I am not sure if it is the same issue that other folks are having where they are saying they are getting no boost after 4200 rpms. It didn't feel like I had boost, but there was some - just less and slower than usual.

The car felt noticeably slower and real sluggish...it didn't jump like it usually does when I get on it. I noticed that boost would peak at 10 psi, but more interesting was the fact that it would build boost very slowly (usually the needle on the gauge is at 15-17 psi just like that when flooring the accelerator). This morning it crept up to 10 psi and then came back down - it didn't matter if I was at 3000 rpms or 5000 rpms when I floored it - it just crawled to 10 psi and the car felt noticeably slower/less responsive. I have a twenty minute commute in good weather w/ 90% of it being freeways. The last couple of miles is through city streets. When I came off the freeway and was stopped at the first light, I shut the car off and started it back up and the car reverted back to its usual manner. Boost shot up to 15 psi when I would go wot and the car just felt alot more responsive...like I'm used to it feeling. It was 18 degrees out this morning if that matters.

I'll try to use Rainman's format:

Mazdaspeed 6
owned for a little over 1 month
1350 miles
Grounding kit, K&N panel filter
93 octane (consistently)
powerloss, with associated weird boost behavior/limited boost
first trip of the day (first start-up) on the freeway going 60-70 mph, also on freeway entrance 20-30 mph
turned car off restarted and problem went away
current status is that this seems to be an intermittent problem and I guess since it has only happened once for sure, but probably once before, I'm waiting for a fix whether that is a ecu reflash through mazda or some tuner out there. I probably won't take the car in unless it becomes more frequent, but I'll definately mention it when it goes in for service (3500 more miles).

[Rainman]

Posting ID: Rainman
Model: MS6 Grand Touring
Duration Owned: 2 months
Mileage: 2446 km
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 91-93 depending on what is available
Problem: door "request" buttons not working, keyless ignition dash light illuminated red (doors will open with key fob button)
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: started suddenly last week after driving car normally in cold weather and stopping for a short period in a store.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: will take in to service this Thursday
Resolution of Problem: none yet
Current Status: pending
Future Plans:


R

[Captain KRM P5]

i sense an ECU reflash coming on...i test drove an MS6 again and for the most part, car drove as awesome as i recall, but i did experience power loss on one of my WOT tries. i tried again right afterwards though and car was fine.

[35ounce]

Posting ID: Rainman
Model: MS6 Grand Touring
Duration Owned: 2 months
Mileage: 2446 km
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 91-93 depending on what is available
Problem: door "request" buttons not working, keyless ignition dash light illuminated red (doors will open with key fob button)
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: started suddenly last week after driving car normally in cold weather and stopping for a short period in a store.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: will take in to service this Thursday
Resolution of Problem: none yet
Current Status: pending
Future Plans:


R

what are door request buttons?? if you're talking about the window switches, check my thread under the welcome area... i got some help and was able to program the switches to work properly

[Rainman]

what are door request buttons?? if you're talking about the window switches, check my thread under the welcome area... i got some help and was able to program the switches to work properly

No, not the window switch, but rather the door request switches on the two front handles on the GT model with the keyless ignition. These are the buttons you press to unlock the car without using the key or the remote. They just stopped working last week. Usually when the keycard is in the car, the word "KEY" is illuminated green on the instrument cluster. However, if the keyless ignition is not working properly, the word "KEY" is illuminated in red signalling the driver to have the car checked. Currently, "KEY" has been illuminated in red on my instrument panel since the end of last week. Just haven't had time to take it in yet.

R

[Rainman]

Update: The module for the keyless ignition is located under the rear bumper. The connector is somewhat exposed to the elements, although the module itself is protected. With our labile weather here in Ottawa we have had a lot of melting snow and slush. Over time moisture has worked its way into the exposed connector and shorted out the circuit and possibly damaged the keyless ignition module.

Plan: Mazda Canada has already been contacted about this as another Ottawa MS6 has already had this problem earlier this week. Mazda Canada, when contacted earlier, didn't know the part number for this modeule. They are figuring that out so that they can order it. Turn around is expected to be 2 weeks.

My MS tech is pretty cool so he plans to first verify that this is the problem by connecting the new unit when it arrives. If this is indeed the problem he is going to cut off the two connectors, solder the ends, and apply heat-shrink to the wires so that they are impervious to the elements. He suspects that there will be quite a few MS6 cars with this problem, especially if they are driven in inclement climates, which will make it necessary for Mazda to develop a different connector component to retrofit cars with the problem.

R

[Flykazoo]

Had the same problem with MS6 after only a few weeks. Rear keyless entry button wouldn't work. Tech tracked it down to the rear antenna. I did notice that it first happened in rainy weather. Tech seemed to think that it would probably be a common problem, though it didn't sound like a big deal to fix.

I gouged the right front wheel on a curb while parking. Trying to get close to the curb to give myself extra room from the car on the left. Learned my lesson. Found a company that will fix it up good as new (supposedly) here in Detroit. My Dad's used them for wheels on his Jag and said he couldn't tell they'd been blemished.

I absolutely love the car. The keyless issue is minor. No problems with power loss. Was concerned about driving in snow/ice with the low-profile tires, but I've been through several snow storms with no problems. I live in Michigan, and the AWD is the reason I chose the MS6 over the RX-8.

Keith

[XPLORx4]

Posting ID: XPLORx4
Model: Mazdaspeed6 GT
Duration Owned: 1/28/06-current
Mileage: 650 (2/7/06), increasing by ~400mi/week
Mods: iPod audio link, XM radio
Fuel Octane Used: 91
Problem: rear differential howl/whine between 40 and 50 mph, loudest @ 45
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: accel/decel/cruise @ 45mph
Steps Taken to Address Problem: dealer alerted to symptom, will be monitored as mileage increases
Resolution of Problem: none at this time
Current Status: under observation for increase in symptom
Future Plans: yes, many; TBD. :)

[MrTea]

don't have a speed, but figured it might be help for those that don't know.

* Link removed (See 6/MS6 forum rules (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109671)) Thanks!

there is input from 20 or so owners with issues on their speed's, worth a look if you are concerned. though no fixes yet for the big issues.

[pjjoh1]

Posting ID: XPLORx4
Model: Mazdaspeed6 GT
Problem: rear differential howl/whine between 40 and 50 mph, loudest @ 45
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: accel/decel/cruise @ 45mph
Steps Taken to Address Problem: dealer alerted to symptom, will be monitored as mileage increases
Resolution of Problem: none at this time

Yep, I've got this too, at about 75-80 km/h (same speed approx).

Not sure where it's coming from or even if it's tyre harmonics, but it sure is loud, and I spend a lot of time at that speed.

PJ

[Flykazoo]

Mazda replace the antenna, but rear keyless button still didn't work. Tech called Mazda and was told it was the switch -- not the antenna -- that needed to be replaced. Part is on order and sounds like a quick repair once the part is in.

No other problems. No howl or whine as reported by a previous poster.

[cheesefarmer]

i have 1100 km's on my car, and so far i have not experienced any problems with it.

except that mazda has no part for a block heater for the car....(?)

Posting ID: cheesefarmer
Model: Mazdaspeed6 GT
Duration Owned: 2/03/06-current
Mileage: 1100km
Mods: none
Fuel Octane Used: 94
Problem: none
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:
Steps Taken to Address Problem:
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status: watching out for powerloss
Future Plans: TBD.

[Rainman]

Update: Module replaced yesterday and everything is now back to normal. Both door switches work properly. Replaced under warranty no questions asked. Didn't get a chance to talk to the tech after it was done so not sure if he soldered the connectors like he originally planned. I'll ask him next week when I take the car in to have the tint on the driver's window redone.

R

[CSVT]

New Problem:

Hey guys, my dad's had his Mazdaspeed since november and this is the first problem we are having. One day i took a buddy out to show him the car, i tested it out but didnt NAIL on the car, i floored it about 2-3 times and then just drove along and showed him the features. Anyways i got home and precided to drive the car up the driveway, now my driveway is probably a 30 degree angle and a BITCH to get up, after i got up i noticed a raw fish smell and i knew i had burnt the clutch coming up the driveway. Anyways that monday on the way to work the car started to shake back and forth in everygear from 2500-3750rpms. The shaking is like when you go through a playground zone in a standard in 2nd gear and give it gas how it bounces around and whatnot, thats what the car feels like.

Well i took the car to the dealership and they analyzed it and all they could come up with was bad gas.. i told my dad it was bullshit and that it was something driveline related. Anyways, its been about 2-3 weeks and lots 2-3 fill ups later and the problem is still here.

Anyone got any ideas on what it is?

[hellcat]

New Problem:

Hey guys, my dad's had his Mazdaspeed since november and this is the first problem we are having. One day i took a buddy out to show him the car, i tested it out but didnt NAIL on the car, i floored it about 2-3 times and then just drove along and showed him the features. Anyways i got home and precided to drive the car up the driveway, now my driveway is probably a 30 degree angle and a BITCH to get up, after i got up i noticed a raw fish smell and i knew i had burnt the clutch coming up the driveway. Anyways that monday on the way to work the car started to shake back and forth in everygear from 2500-3750rpms. The shaking is like when you go through a playground zone in a standard in 2nd gear and give it gas how it bounces around and whatnot, thats what the car feels like.

Well i took the car to the dealership and they analyzed it and all they could come up with was bad gas.. i told my dad it was bullshit and that it was something driveline related. Anyways, its been about 2-3 weeks and lots 2-3 fill ups later and the problem is still here.

Anyone got any ideas on what it is?

No real idea what is going on with your car but for you own good stay on Mazda, they try and get out of fixing problems sometimes.

[CSVT]

No real idea what is going on with your car but for you own good stay on Mazda, they try and get out of fixing problems sometimes.

Werd, im gonna take it in again and tell them to check:

Clutch
Flywheel
Swaybar endlinks
Trans Mounts
Motor Mounts
Reflash ECU

[mazda6gal]

Hellcat have them check the clutch sounds like you may have done some damge to it...

Otherwise my speed has had no issues... I have only owned it a week!!! (boom07)

[BlkZoomZoom]

Im suprised this thread hasn't exploded to dozens of pages already :lol:

Your not on a neon site buddy.

[Rainman]

Nolimits: BZZ is right. This is meant to be an INFORMATIVE thread. If you want to muse about the shortcomings of the MS6 that is your own business, but lets keep this thread on topic please.

Thanks,
R

[BlkZoomZoom]

I have had a couple come in with the keyless system not working properly. One was the rear antenna (under the rear bumper) and one was the button in the trunk. The system gives dtc's so it's pretty easy to diagnois.

I haven't seen any other problems yet. We have sold 12 so far.

[Rainman]

I have had a couple come in with the keyless system not working properly. One was the rear antenna (under the rear bumper) and one was the button in the trunk. The system gives dtc's so it's pretty easy to diagnois.

I haven't seen any other problems yet. We have sold 12 so far.

You read my mind brother. I was gonna ask what trouble you had seen so far. No other common problems?

R

[BlkZoomZoom]

None. Haven't even had anyone complaining of "the powerloss" issue either. Though there are rumors of a re-flash coming.

[SVOGT]

None. Haven't even had anyone complaining of "the powerloss" issue either. Though there are rumors of a re-flash coming.
I hope this rumored re-flash doesn't limit the boost........
I'd be pissed if it didn't retain the 274HP rating.

[BlkZoomZoom]

I hope this rumored re-flash doesn't limit the boost........
I'd be pissed if it didn't retain the 274HP rating.

After the Rx-8 fiasco I can almost garuntee you that they will not do that. Plus to do that they would change fuel maps, if they do that they have to have it re-certified by the Government for emissions and that takes awhile to do.

[RayO]

Posting ID: RayO
Model: MazdaSpeed6 GT
Duration Owned: 3 Months
Mileage: 4,000 Miles
Mods: Monster Cable FM modulator for iPod
Fuel Octane Used: 92-93 (damn winter blend)
Problem: DSC/TCS system over applies brakes to control skid / slip
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Under hard accel (especially launching into a 90 Degree turn from a stoplight) the system applies the brakes so agressively that the engine nearly stalls. Problem is mainly when the vehicle is cold, but I've noticed it even when the DSC is trying to control an understeer condition.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Hasn't been annoying enough yet to harrass the dealer about it, but wondered if anyone else is experiencing the same thing. That and driving a little less aggressive when I know it will act up.
Resolution of Problem: Drive Nice??
Current Status: Same as above...
Future Plans: Really looking into the iPod direct wire and adding boost gauge

[CSVT]

anyone got any ideas about my problem? its really getting annoying.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Million and one possibilites. Very possible it could have been bad gas, it is sometimes impossible to determine whether the problem is in the engine or drivetrain. Have you been back to the dealership?

[CSVT]

nope, i wanna take it in, my dad is being a PITA and is believing its bad gas, its actually gotten is better now that its warming up tho...

[Rainman]

nope, i wanna take it in, my dad is being a PITA and is believing its bad gas, its actually gotten is better now that its warming up tho...

On the other Mazda forum someone mentioned a similar problem IIRC. The consensus was that the driver had "glazed" the clutch face. If I can find the discussion I will post the info for you.

R

[Rainman]

nope, i wanna take it in, my dad is being a PITA and is believing its bad gas, its actually gotten is better now that its warming up tho...

I would post the info from the forum but it spans several posts. Instead if you check under the Mazdaspeed section of the ********** forum under the title "Launch Mishap" (post #48485) you will find some info pertaining to this topic. The consensus seems to be a burnt clutch face in addition to some other problems.

R

[mazda6gal]

Can I ask a stupid ? what is glazing the clutch? Thanks


Michelle

[Rainman]

Can I ask a stupid ? what is glazing the clutch? Thanks


Michelle

Mirrorlike shine on the pressure plate = glazed clutch facing. Kinda like a glazed doughnut...LOL!

R

[XPLORx4]

Can I ask a stupid ? what is glazing the clutch? Thanks


Michelle

Not a stupid question at all. Clutch material is a semi-metallic compound that resembles brake pads to some extent. If you slip the clutch excessively (such as rev the engine, but don't let the clutch all the way out), the surface of the clutch gets really hot from friction, and basically starts to burn. Well, it doesn't burn, as in catch on fire, but its surface glazes over and no longer grips.

Replacement of the clutch is usually necessary, since the glaze can't be removed just by normal use.

[Rainman]

Werd, im gonna take it in again and tell them to check:

Clutch
Flywheel
Swaybar endlinks
Trans Mounts
Motor Mounts
Reflash ECU

CHATTER
— is a shaking or shuddering that is felt in the vehicle as the clutch is engaged
— usually occurs when the pressure plate first contacts the clutch disc
~ it stops when the clutch is fully engaged

— to check for chatter:
~ start the engine
~ depress the clutch completely
~ shift the transmission into first gear
~ increase engine speed to about 1,500 rpm
~ slowly release the clutch pedal
~ check for chatter as the pedal begins to engage
~ do not release the pedal completely
~ as soon as the clutch is partially engaged, depress the clutch pedal
immediately
~ reduce engine speed to prevent damage to the clutch parts

— chatter is usually caused by liquid leaking onto the clutch and contaminating its friction surfaces

> this results in a mirrorlike shine on the pressure plate or a glazed clutch
facing
> oil and clutch hydraulic fluid leak can occur at:
~ the engine rear main bearing seal
~ the transmission input shaft seal
~ the slave cylinder
~ the hydraulic line

> when the damaged parts are replaced, the cause of the leak must be
found and corrected

— other causes of chatter include:
~ broken engine mounts
~ loose bell housing bolts
~ damaged clutch linkage
~ worn input shaft splines
~ warped pressure plate or flywheel
~ broken or weak torsional springs in the clutch disc
~ failure to resurface the flywheel when a new clutch disc or pressure plate is installed

Perhaps this is the problem you are experiencing. It may have happened when you did some quick accelerations, if you thought you were in first, but really were in third.

R

[mazda6gal]

Thanks!!!!

[PerfectXtreme]

Posting ID:
Model: Speed6 GT
Duration Owned: 2 Weeks
Mileage: 800
Mods: Stereo System
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: My console keyless "key" blinker thingy (don't know exactly what to call it)... Has ALWAYS blinked red. I've never seen a green light on my dash ever since I tested or drove my car. But as far as I can tell the keyless system is running perfectly fine. Door buttons work, keyless start works... Remote windows work... Everything works. Anyone know why i'm not seeing a green light?
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Always since I test drove it!
Steps Taken to Address Problem: I will bring it to the dealership once it gets outta the stereo shop.
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status: Still Red
Future Plans: Ask Dealership

[CSVT]

So i took the car in again, turns out i had a plugged 02 sensor, they replaced it and now the car runs great.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Posting ID:
Model: Speed6 GT
Duration Owned: 2 Weeks
Mileage: 800
Mods: Stereo System
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: My console keyless "key" blinker thingy (don't know exactly what to call it)... Has ALWAYS blinked red. I've never seen a green light on my dash ever since I tested or drove my car. But as far as I can tell the keyless system is running perfectly fine. Door buttons work, keyless start works... Remote windows work... Everything works. Anyone know why i'm not seeing a green light?
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Always since I test drove it!
Steps Taken to Address Problem: I will bring it to the dealership once it gets outta the stereo shop.
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status: Still Red
Future Plans: Ask Dealership

Does the trunk button work?

[tyrellebo]

Model: MS6 GT
Duration Owned: ~3 months
Mileage: 3500
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: Weak boost
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Started about a month after purchase
Steps Taken to Address Problem: None so far
Resolution of Problem: N/A
Current Status: Existing problem
Future Plans: Take it into the shop


i'm new to this forum so i apologize if my knowledge of things is not up to par. so the problem i'm having seems to be similar to a post back in jan. the ms6 just doesn't seem to have that kick that it use to. compared to the first month of driving the car, it doesn't have that power anymore.. it seems slower. i'm not sure if this is because i drive the car everyday and i'm just getting use to it. or i have a problem with turbo and it's not boosting up as much as it use to. i really wish i had a boost gauge in the car so i can at least tell that it's boosting up to 15 psi. the first month that i had the car i would really feel the turbo kick in at ~3000rpms, especially in 2nd and 3rd gear. and now it still kicks at ~3000, but it's just less responsive and not as powerful. is anybody else having the same problem? any suggestions as to what i can check or should i just bring it to the shop?

[PerfectXtreme]

I too am worried about my "boost" I mean the car is still pretty strong... 0-60 in no time flat.... soon as i take off... look down.. i'm goin 60-70....

But... for 274 hp... Seems a bit... Sluggish... Like on the freeway... goin 60-70... i'll see an open strech.. drop it to 5th.... and the car goes... i see myself moving past people... but i don't feel the turbo kick in much... or really pull on me...

I seem to remember... and I'd expect to feel the car pull on me a lot more... at over 3500 rpms...

I'm going to arrange some Boost Guages... Oil pressure / Temp... all that junk... Nice to know whats goin on with your car as you drive... Only problem.. finding a place for em...

The Speed6... all 6's probably... don't have much room for interior mods... no pop-pannes... and drilling is never your friend...

[seanw]

. . . .

the ms6 just doesn't seem to have that kick that it use to. compared to the first month of driving the car, it doesn't have that power anymore.. it seems slower. i'm not sure if this is because i drive the car everyday and i'm just getting use to it. or i have a problem with turbo and it's not boosting up as much as it use to. i really wish i had a boost gauge in the car so i can at least tell that it's boosting up to 15 psi. the first month that i had the car i would really feel the turbo kick in at ~3000rpms, especially in 2nd and 3rd gear. and now it still kicks at ~3000, but it's just less responsive and not as powerful. is anybody else having the same problem? any suggestions as to what i can check or should i just bring it to the shop?

Wikipedia: "Addiction is often characterized by a craving for more of the drug or behavior, increased physiological tolerance to exposure, and withdrawal symptoms in the absence of the stimulus." I, too, am suffering from acceleration addiction. I, too, am thinking I need a boost gauge, to verify that I am getting the same acceleration fix from my Speed. What's next, robbing convenience stores to get money to get a BOV, a less restrictive exhaust system, a cold air intake? Where will it end? Is the Speed a "gateway" vehicle leading me to harder and harder accelerating vehicles? Will I bankrupt my family to buy a Ferrari? (boom07)

I don't know the answer, but I do know that the first step to recovery is to acknowledge the problem and stop blaming the drug, I mean the Speed. Stock Speeds with the same number of miles as ours are still turning in 13.7 second quarter miles in the hands of amateur drivers. Face it gentlemen, our Speeds haven't changed, we have! (I'm still going to get a boost gauge, though, just to make sure . . . . :) )

[tyrellebo]

yea i think i'll install a boost gauge. seems like a good first step to take. perfectxtreme, after you install your gauges, can you let me know if you find any problems? thx.

[PerfectXtreme]

yea i think i'll install a boost gauge. seems like a good first step to take. perfectxtreme, after you install your gauges, can you let me know if you find any problems? thx.

I'm still doing a lot of research about everything... And I need to find someone / some place... that will do a good job with a guage console / mount... And accurate installs...

I don't want my speed looking like every other rice honda runnin around with huge guages everywhere...

[VinnieBeachbum]

Model: MS6 GT
Duration Owned: ~1 month
Mileage: 1.5k
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: Down-shift clunk
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Down shift from 3rd to 2nd to take an exit
Steps Taken to Address Problem: questioning the guru's here
Resolution of Problem: N/A
Current Status: One time
Future Plans: praying it isn't the tranny

I was getting on the highway on a right turn. downshifted from 3rd to 2nd and there was a loud clunk that I felt as well as heard. Maybe I clutched out wrong. Any ideas?(glare)

[PerfectXtreme]

I slammed my breaks on hard one day... it was makin a squeak.. figured that might fix it... ended up makin a loud metal clunk... and... since then i've noticed every once in a while when i break.. or shift.. i hear the same thing... if I keep noticing it... i'm gonna take the car in and say "fix it bitches"..

[BlkZoomZoom]

I slammed my breaks on hard one day... it was makin a squeak.. figured that might fix it... ended up makin a loud metal clunk... and... since then i've noticed every once in a while when i break.. or shift.. i hear the same thing... if I keep noticing it... i'm gonna take the car in and say "fix it bitches"..


Nice attitude.

[PerfectXtreme]

You have a problem with my attitude? Tell you what.. go to Salem Power Mazda dealership... talk with.. and work with them for a few weeks... and come back to me...

Being lied to left and right... but it being "legal" as nothing is in writing... For example... "We've been using 92 in all our performance models"... In reality they fill all vehicles from the dealership pump... including mine... which is 87...

Battery unplugged for a few hours during stereo installed... windows stop working... installer and I skimmed the manual... didn't see anything at first.. took it in to ask... They wouldn't spend a second... and soonest appointment was... I think 2-3 weeks later... Eventually figured it out though...

I could go on.. and on... but for the money dished out on this vehicle... I feel I have a right for it to work right... no problems.. and any problems that come up... to be fixed... I have a feeling if there is a recall... or a ECU flash... something along those lines... I'll hear nothing of it.. unless i remail active in the MS6 forums / net community...

[BlkZoomZoom]

Damn, the Tech's at the dealership didn't do anything wrong to you and you call them bitches. They didn't build your car man.

[spike blue]

they didn't but they are bitches!!! I hate the dealer!!! i just hate it!!!

[PerfectXtreme]

Weren't the techs talking to me... I wish I could talk to techs... its the dumbass' at the front desk... who schedule the appointments... or look up part numbers and flip through the manuals... The 2 guys I was able to talk with... knew nothing about Mazdaspeed6... The keyless system... the window programming... Any options available for order...

Anyway... Apparently I hit a sore subject with you... Work in a dealership by chance? I never complain about bad fries at McDonalds... Never ask for new food if it isn't perfect... and I always tip.. no matter how shitty my waitress may be...

I was more "joking" with my comment... but as far as cars go... i've been thrown around a lot.. Hell i paid 34,000 for it... People are saying they got fully loaded GT with nav.. for 28-30... and it came with hooker in the back seat....

"Apparently" i got ripped out... however I shopped around a tun... and think most people are full of shit... or trying to sound "cool" when they post sale prices... I paid a lot for the car... i've gotten little to no service from the dealership... And its the dealership i'll pimpslap till i get my way... Its almost impossible to see mechanics at a dealership... If they let you work with them.. things would be a lot easier...

[VinnieBeachbum]

Any techs know anything about this noise? or is it normal? Alot of junk on this thread, please stay on topic?

[Samdiver74]

PerfectXtreme
I agree with you, I think you should be allowed to talk to the tech / techs that are going to work on your vehicle when you take it in, instead of saying to a Service manager, or some other person what the problem is with your car and then chinese whisper goes on, so when the tech gets it, he is looking for something different and the problem doesn't get fixed.
Now the one time that I had to take in my Speed 6 was for the keyless system locking, getting it changed to auto locking (for Free), and the fact that I had paid for Wheel locks and there weren't any on the car, I was prepaid to do this myself, but being as I had to get the lock configuration changed, then they could do the wheel locks too, FOR FREE.
The one thing that had un nerved me a little was when they said that my car was the guinee pig for the lock configuration change(shocked) and it took 5 - 6 hours for them to figure it out.
So fingers crossed that I don't have any problems with it.

But I have also asked a couple of times on these forums if anyone knows of the Speed 6 tech service manual, on CD/DVD I don't care, there is alot of stuff I would rather do myself, than have to take back a car to any dealership, that is why I decided to get a name brand vehicle after owning 2 Kia's for so long, and not having any aftermarket support, not even a haynes manual for the fricking things.
I was able to get all the Mitsu Evo workshop manuals from the Evo 4 upto the Evo IX suppliments, which was why I was going to get an Evo.
So I know there is a Mazda Speed 6 workshop manual out there somewhere, Please help a brother out.

[Rainman]

Every time that I have taken my MSP or my MS6 in to be serviced, I have spoken to the tech directly. I tell the service manager about my problem, and then I ask to speak to the MS tech directly. They are always happy to let me do so. I always ask for him to work on my car specifically and he has been more than helpful on many occasions. That should not be a problem. If it is, then you are not getting the service that you should, and perhaps you should get it serviced at another dealer.

R

[crossbow]

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2436940#post2436940

For the power loss problem (or stuck in 33% TP mode).

[AWD6]

ok i got $.02 to add

Model: MS6 GT
Duration Owned: since 1/9/06
Mileage: 8700
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: Check Engine light came on, and int. loss of power
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: normal city driving for light, power loss...same as everyone else, doing highway speeds and dropping a gear or just trying to speed up
Steps Taken to Address Problem: took car in for light...was a check valve, havent taken in for loss of power b/c i just read the thread in this forum about it...thought i was crazy
Resolution of Problem: light is off and has been off for over 2000miles
Current Status: still int. loss of power
Future Plans: take it into dealer for that update


but about the window thing. to re-synche the windows for auto up and down you hold it in the manual position all the way down and when the window is all the way down push it into auto down position and hold for about 3 seconds...reapeat for up and you are good to go.

[Nino Uvita]

Do any of your MS6 is overheating after shutting off the engine? My MS6 started to turn on the auxiliary fans couple of days ago after having the dealership changed the clutch. I am taking it to the dealership this week to see what is wrong.

[AWD6]

yea that doesnt sound normal

[tyrellebo]

Indeed that does sound odd. I dont believe the fans ever been running after I shut the car off. Nino Uvita, please keep us posted.

[crossbow]

There was a recall on the fan controllers for older mazda 6's. Mazda "supposedly" resolved the issue, but the problem keeps occuring in 05's, and 06 Mazda 6's. I wouldn't be surprised if the MS6 uses the exact same part (prone to failure), as the other problematic 6 fan controllers.

Basically if your fan starts cycling on/off/on/off/on/off when the car is turned off, you need to make a dealer visit ASAP. When the fan controller starts going, it can STOP completely, shutting off all fans.

It is perfectly normal if you were romping on the car to have the fans cycle for a "small" amount of time after the car's shut off, if coolant temps are exceeding 200F+. But it shouldn't sit there and sound like a hurricane after you walk away from the car.

[Nino Uvita]

Thanks for the input. I will let you know when the dealer finds out.

[Nino Uvita]

They found a hose pinched .. I guess that it happened when they intalled the new clutch....

[Rainman]

They found a hose pinched .. I guess that it happened when they intalled the new clutch....


Thanks for the update.

R

[ChicagoKid]

Anyone here with the turbo problems replaced the stock BOV? Many has use HKS SSQ BOV and slove the turbo lag problem.

[VinnieBeachbum]

Ok I have a very very wierd one for you all.

I went to the oval drag track yestderday night and the car was running like a champ. I had just gotten the CP-E exhaust and the "power loss" flash on the ecu the day before that.

well back on topic! I raced this 1/3 mile oval track on time trials let it cool down while waiting for my first drag, completed that one and let it cool for another 30 or so minutes. Did another race and let it cool for about 15-20 minutes. Raced one more time and at the end of the race when we were coming back on the "cool down" lap the car shut down. I thought I had stalled it so I turned it over with no problems and went on to let it cool for another 10 minutes. The last race I completed the race but again on the "cool down" lap to the pit it shut off in almost exactly the same spot and this time it wouldn't come back on. It would turn over sputter and stop. tried to start it multiple times over a 45 minute period to no joy tried a push start and that didn't work either. 10 minutes after that I decided to have it pushed out in the parking lot and call a tow truck. But when I got over the little hill to the other side I decided to try and pop the clutch one more time and see what that did and VROOM it started back up with no problems at all! Drove all the way, 35 minutes , home and it has been running fine ever since.

Anyone know or have a suggestion on what could have caused this. I thought MAF sensor maby, someone else suggested it might have been my fuel in the fuel line got vaporized from the excessive heat.... but I don't understand why it would take almost an hour to be able to start again..... help me please

[occschemguy]

try to look at this

[gen1pro]

Posting ID:gen1pro (need to change that)
Model:2006 MS6 GT
Duration Owned: 1 week
Mileage: 543
Mods:NONE
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem: Check engine light came on and stayed on
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: All the time But the was parked for 4 hours and then I started it and it came on.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Restarted car
Resolution of Problem: None yet
Current Status: Sitting in the garage
Future Plans: Waiting to take it to the dealership

[rusharp]

Posting ID:gen1pro (need to change that)
Model:2006 MS6 GT
Duration Owned: 1 week
Mileage: 543
Mods:NONE
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem: Check engine light came on and stayed on
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: All the time But the was parked for 4 hours and then I started it and it came on.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Restarted car
Resolution of Problem: None yet
Current Status: Sitting in the garage
Future Plans: Waiting to take it to the dealership


Had the same issue...turned out the dealer didn't screw on the gas cap all the way...dealer cleared the cel.

[Jaque]

Have the howl at around 70 km/hr but under all conditions, accel, decel, constant speed. Sounds like differential but haven't been able to determine.
Let me know if you have any luck in a fix.

[M_PowerM3]

No, not the window switch, but rather the door request switches on the two front handles on the GT model with the keyless ignition. These are the buttons you press to unlock the car without using the key or the remote. They just stopped working last week. Usually when the keycard is in the car, the word "KEY" is illuminated green on the instrument cluster. However, if the keyless ignition is not working properly, the word "KEY" is illuminated in red signalling the driver to have the car checked. Currently, "KEY" has been illuminated in red on my instrument panel since the end of last week. Just haven't had time to take it in yet.

R

Did you check the battery in your key fob?

[buit9110]

Posting ID:buit9110
Model:2006 MS6 sport
Duration Owned: 03/06
Mileage: 16312
Mods:aem intake and hks ssq vta
Fuel Octane Used:93 always
Problem: smoke comes out of my exhaust when i stay on a light for more than 5 minutes. there is a clanking noise from the rear when i brake. driver window clanks when i close it, and even though i got the recall i still get the powerloss sometimes.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: exhaust: all the time, clank from rear: when i put it in neutral and stop. window: sometimes. powerloss: sometimes
Steps Taken to Address Problem: I'm going to the dealership this week.
Resolution of Problem: None yet
Current Status: pending
Future Plans: Waiting to take it to the dealership

[Jigggity]

Posting ID: Jigggity
Model: Speed6 GT
Duration Owned: 6 Months
Mileage:10000
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used:93 only
Problem:Just got back from a a long trip and noticed the front Fascia and rear fascia was coming loose. As in almost off on hte rear and the front the body lines did not match.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:Probbly constant high speeds around 80-85
Steps Taken to Address Problem:Talking to dealer today
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status:In Progress
Future Plans:

[jcgemt2003]

Posting ID:JCGEMT2003
Model:2006 MS6 sport
Duration Owned: 04/06
Mileage: 12000
Mods:?
Fuel Octane Used:93 always
Problem: 4wd light came on and front tires spin with no activation of the all-wheel drive.
Conditions: Released the clutch to fast?
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Taken to dealership for inspection.
Resolution of Problem: Replacment of the right rear axle
Current Status: Front-whell drive Mazda Speed6...it sucks but I got a rental.
Future Plans: Part on back order...wont be shipped until Oct.30th 2006.

[mustangman]

I have been having these problems for some time now... after the first oil change at 2,000 miles to be exact.

Posting ID: Mustangman
Model: Mazdaspeed 6 GT
Duration Owned: Since May 2006
Mileage: 5,700 currently
Mods:none
Fuel Octane Used: always 93
Problem: Hesitation, complete loss of power
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: under medium acceleration
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Taken to dealer
Resolution of Problem: none
Current Status: awaiting call from dealer for a Mazda Tech Engineer
Future Plans: Possible Lemon Law

After the first oil change I noticed the hesitation problem and took the car in. They told me it was turbo lag. I insisted that I know too much about cars to pull that will me, and hesitation was coming 3,000 to 4,500 rpm. (Turbo spools at 2,000-2,500.) After getting the car back with no explanation, my service manager called and said to wait for the ecu update. When that came out I took my car back in and drove the service manager around showing him the problem and letting him drive the car to experience it himself. After the update the problem persisted and I called to inform them once again.

Now I drive a bit for a living and I was out of town and couldn't take the car in immediately, but while driving then... under normal acceleration the car died. I mean it lost all power and almost came to a complete stop.

After taking it in for this and getting it back with no response from the dealer I had another incident like the one listed above. The only difference was how hard the car stopped. I had my left hand on the steering wheel and was leaving home, I might have been doing 40mph and the car locked up and stopped so quickly my head came forward hitting my hand on the steering wheel.

Needless to say I was pissed. I called immediately and told the service dept what happened. They didn't have any cars to loan me so I had to wait three days to take the car in. When I took the car in they let me talk directly to the tech working on my car. I took him for a drive and then let him drive. It was a bit wet that day and he thought it may have been traction control kicking in. He said he would wait until it was dry to drive again and give me feedback. A few days later he called and said he still experienced the same thing in dry conditions. Upon checking the spark plugs he found they were carboned up and was replacing them. When the plugs came in he drove it again with the same result.

Now I am waiting for a Mazda Tech to call so I can take him for a drive to show him the problems. In the meantime I have had one more large power loss and constant hesitation.

As I stated above, I am at a loss on what to do. If that powerloss comes in the middle of rush hour traffic it could cause an accident. And the powerloss is annoying as all hell. I need some advice on how to bring up the Ohio Lemon Law or how to proceed from here. The car has been in for the same problem 4 times and still there is no solution. I am expecting a call this Friday from Mazda Tech to show them first hand the problem.

Also, they keep telling me they have never had a problem like this and that I am the first with any problem this severe. I am sick of hearing that and expressed as much to them.

Lastly, I am 32 and have owned all sorts of cars in my lifetime, I build motorcycles and cars for a "hobby". My point is I know a bit about motors, cars and poweradders and that I am not a young kid complaining about his car. Thank you for your time and advice.

[buit9110]

i believe that if you take your car for more than 3 times for serve for the same problem and they can't fix it,you are elegible for lemon law. send a letter to mazda headquaters with your information explaining what happened and go from there.

[Rainman]

I have been having these problems for some time now... after the first oil change at 2,000 miles to be exact.

As I stated above, I am at a loss on what to do. If that powerloss comes in the middle of rush hour traffic it could cause an accident. And the powerloss is annoying as all hell. I need some advice on how to bring up the Ohio Lemon Law or how to proceed from here. The car has been in for the same problem 4 times and still there is no solution. I am expecting a call this Friday from Mazda Tech to show them first hand the problem.

Also, they keep telling me they have never had a problem like this and that I am the first with any problem this severe. I am sick of hearing that and expressed as much to them.

Lastly, I am 32 and have owned all sorts of cars in my lifetime, I build motorcycles and cars for a "hobby". My point is I know a bit about motors, cars and poweradders and that I am not a young kid complaining about his car. Thank you for your time and advice.

First thing that I would try is to take it to another dealer to see if their service department can come up with anything different. After all, not all service departments are created equal. I would also make sure that whichever sercie department you take it to has the most up-to-date version of the ECU reflash. You can search the forum for threads on this topic...you will find the up-to-date version number there.

That is a start for now. I'll add ideas when I come up with them.

R

[mustangman]

"Buit" that is my understanding of the lemon law as well. I will try writing the letter as you suggested. Thank you.

Rainman, thank you as well for the post. I thought the same thing with the ECU update and each time they have told me the update is the newest... then of course I check. So far they are correct.

As far as another dealer, I hear you there, but one point on that. The Service Tech at the shop I go to is a Mazdaspeed only guy. I assumed he was the best for the job. He also noticed the spark plug problem (carbonized) which would have explained alot... if that fixed things. I do have another Mazda Shop about 45 minutes away, I'll give them a shot and let you know.

Thanks again.

[mustangman]

An update to my previous post.

A Mazda Tech same out and reviewed my problem, they have taken the car in again to check a few things he suggested. One is a fuel check, to make sure pressure is where it should be. Seecond is to check the ECU and the Traction Control for the other problem.

I was told, after talking in length with the Sales guy and the Service Manager, that if the problems aren't fixed this time, they would make it right. They would be taking the car back and help me with the Lemon Law if needed. So with that in mind I am looking for a new car. I don't expect them to fix it and even if they do the problems would always be in the back of my mind. When I hear more on Thursday-Friday, I will update this post.


Jim

[Rainman]

An update to my previous post.

A Mazda Tech same out and reviewed my problem, they have taken the car in again to check a few things he suggested. One is a fuel check, to make sure pressure is where it should be. Seecond is to check the ECU and the Traction Control for the other problem.

I was told, after talking in length with the Sales guy and the Service Manager, that if the problems aren't fixed this time, they would make it right. They would be taking the car back and help me with the Lemon Law if needed. So with that in mind I am looking for a new car. I don't expect them to fix it and even if they do the problems would always be in the back of my mind. When I hear more on Thursday-Friday, I will update this post.


Jim

Thanks for the update Jim. Keep us posted.

R

[mustangman]

As of today, the fuel system and pressures checked out fine. Their next and last step is the throttle position sensor. They are checking that now and look to get back to me later today or Monday.

I wanted to post this before my brain forgot what they told me exactly, I will post again when they call back.

Jim

[mazspd6]

I had the power loss issue previously and they did the reflash..thought it cured it but the day before thanksgiving the check engine light came on and stayed on and I have had intermittent power loss again.
Dealer says he has ordered the new style of gas recirculation valve and it should be in next week. Hopefully that will fix the problem..I'll remain optimistic for now.

[mustangman]

This may be my last post... I hadn't heard from the dealer, so I drove up there today. They still can't find a fix to the hesitation/braking issue. I spoke with the GM and instead of going through lemon law, they are looking for a new vehicle for me. So, it looks like my car will not be fixed and a Mustang GT or Audi S4 (used) is in my future. Good luck everyone and thanks for all your help and support.

Jim

[Bluesultan]

no mechanical problems to speak of yet after a couple of months of ownership (knock on wood) but i have had a couple of other problems. first, my SIRIUS satelite radio never works, it always says ACQUIRING on the display. also, my steering wheel makes a "clicking noise" while turning it. i can hear it best during parking lot manuevers that require the wheel be turned more than 360 degrees but it's even there during half-wheel turns to. anyone else experience either of these problems?

[mustangman]

Hey guys, I need a bit of help. The car has gone past 1 month in the dealer (this time, been in 4 times before) and the dealer is trying to help. Mazda is telling them they still want to fix the vehicle, but they have no idea how to fix the car. Secondly, I drive for a living and drive out of state, a loaner car from the dealer cannot be driven out of state because f insurance reasons. Everytime I drive for work I need the dealer to get me a rental car... I have a new car to drive every week.

Does anyone on here have someone at Mazda I can speak with or a way to resolve this in a timely fashion? I am way past frustration and I just need to move on and get another car. I am tired of paying ofr mine when all it does is sit in the shop. (I've owned for 4-5 months and its been in service for 2-2-1/2 months.) Thank you in advance.

Jim

[mustangman]

Well, I checked here everyday for someone to offer any help, with nothing forthcoming I took matters into my own hands. Lemon Law was pushed hard in late November/Early December. This past Thursday, I received a call from Mazda and an email with Lemon Law paperwork to be signed. After talking with a bunch of people that seemed to care less, this lady was extremely kind and understanding. After running through the final process with her I signed the final paperwork for Mazda to "buy back" my car.

For anyone else going through this, I feel bad for you and if you need any advice please feel free to PM me. One of the biggest issues I had through all this was the loaner cars. I drive out of state for work and anytime this happened, the dealership rented one from enterprise. After 10 Taurus's, Subaru's (Legacy 0-60 in 10 secs....) and the like I grew more and more upset that they wouldn't rent or loan me a car that was comparible, price wise, with the Mazdaspeed 6 I purchased from them. I hate to be a car snob, but I could almost buy 3 Taurus's for the money we all spent on the Speed6.

Well, after test driving an S4, a 330xi, and a S60R, I again purchased a Mazdaspeed 6, Liquid Platinum, fully loaded GT. Truth is, there is no other car you can buy for this price and this performance. I hate to say it, but this car even feels alot quicker and better made than my favorite car ... Mustang. I hope this experience owning a Mazda will be much different than my last.

FYI, the final problem with my car was the Stability Control system. I picked it back up last Thursday "fixed". But when I drove it to pick up the new one... the hesitation was as bad if not worse and when I took the sales guy out for a drive the braking issue happened again.

Take care guys, and a sincere thank you to the people who wrote back in this post or in PM's.

Jim

[denhabr]

Posting ID: denhabr
Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed 6
Duration Owned: 5-1/2 Months
Mileage: ~2700
Mods: K&N Panel Filter, 'lack of power' PCM re-flash (Sept 2006)
Fuel Octane Used: 91 Octane (highest available here at 4800' ASL in Salt Lake City, Utah)
Problem: Dramatic part-throttle tip in jerkiness and hesitation that just appeared suddenly on Jan 1 2007. Dramatic jerking of the entire car as if someone was tapping on the clutch pedal. Engine 'sounds' like it is running on 3 cylinders.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Only occurs at low RPM's while @ part throttle in the lower gears...and is most prevalent when applying the throttle at this speed. Full throttle acceleration is fine once it gets out of the lower RPM band. The car had been running perfectly before that.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Reset the engine computer (battery disconnect); added some injector cleaner; added fresh tank of 91 octane gas; limited driving - no improvement whatsoever. Took car to D. Dahle Mazda here in SLC on 12 January '07.
Resolution of Problem: They got a mechanic on it on 16 January, and after 3 days of analysis, they determined it was a, "bad O2 sensor." They then added that they had to send to Hiroshima for a new one (pissed) which they said would take at least a week. :bs: So I played along. Just found out yesterday on the 25th that the new O2 sensor from Japan is, "too big for the 'manifold'" (or so says the service manager.) Manifold? Did they mean the exhaust manifold or turbo housing? I'm departing for the dealership this afternoon to speak face to face to these folks. This is getting silly.
Current Status: Still in the D. Dahle Mazda service shop...now 14 days.
Future Plans: Cancelled until further notice...

News at 11:00...

[Rainman]

Well, I checked here everyday for someone to offer any help, with nothing forthcoming I took matters into my own hands. Lemon Law was pushed hard in late November/Early December. This past Thursday, I received a call from Mazda and an email with Lemon Law paperwork to be signed. After talking with a bunch of people that seemed to care less, this lady was extremely kind and understanding. After running through the final process with her I signed the final paperwork for Mazda to "buy back" my car.

For anyone else going through this, I feel bad for you and if you need any advice please feel free to PM me. One of the biggest issues I had through all this was the loaner cars. I drive out of state for work and anytime this happened, the dealership rented one from enterprise. After 10 Taurus's, Subaru's (Legacy 0-60 in 10 secs....) and the like I grew more and more upset that they wouldn't rent or loan me a car that was comparible, price wise, with the Mazdaspeed 6 I purchased from them. I hate to be a car snob, but I could almost buy 3 Taurus's for the money we all spent on the Speed6.

Well, after test driving an S4, a 330xi, and a S60R, I again purchased a Mazdaspeed 6, Liquid Platinum, fully loaded GT. Truth is, there is no other car you can buy for this price and this performance. I hate to say it, but this car even feels alot quicker and better made than my favorite car ... Mustang. I hope this experience owning a Mazda will be much different than my last.

FYI, the final problem with my car was the Stability Control system. I picked it back up last Thursday "fixed". But when I drove it to pick up the new one... the hesitation was as bad if not worse and when I took the sales guy out for a drive the braking issue happened again.

Take care guys, and a sincere thank you to the people who wrote back in this post or in PM's.

Jim
Jim,

just checking this thread after a while away. Sorry to hear that they couldn't get things fixed in a timely mannner, but glad to hear that you stayed in the Mazda family. Likewise, after an extensive search of vehicles, I came to realize that there is no comparable car in the price range of the MS6. I would be dissapointed if I had to pick another car in this price point to drive.

Enjoy the new whip.

R

[jonscapri]

Posting ID: denhabr
Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed 6
Duration Owned: 5-1/2 Months
Mileage: ~2700
Mods: K&N Panel Filter, 'lack of power' PCM re-flash (Sept 2006)
Fuel Octane Used: 91 Octane (highest available here at 4800' ASL in Salt Lake City, Utah)
Problem: Dramatic part-throttle tip in jerkiness and hesitation that just appeared suddenly on Jan 1 2007. Dramatic jerking of the entire car as if someone was tapping on the clutch pedal. Engine 'sounds' like it is running on 3 cylinders.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Only occurs at low RPM's while @ part throttle in the lower gears...and is most prevalent when applying the throttle at this speed. Full throttle acceleration is fine once it gets out of the lower RPM band. The car had been running perfectly before that.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Reset the engine computer (battery disconnect); added some injector cleaner; added fresh tank of 91 octane gas; limited driving - no improvement whatsoever. Took car to D. Dahle Mazda here in SLC on 12 January '07.
Resolution of Problem: They got a mechanic on it on 16 January, and after 3 days of analysis, they determined it was a, "bad O2 sensor." They then added that they had to send to Hiroshima for a new one (pissed) which they said would take at least a week. :bs: So I played along. Just found out yesterday on the 25th that the new O2 sensor from Japan is, "too big for the 'manifold'" (or so says the service manager.) Manifold? Did they mean the exhaust manifold or turbo housing? I'm departing for the dealership this afternoon to speak face to face to these folks. This is getting silly.
Current Status: Still in the D. Dahle Mazda service shop...now 14 days.
Future Plans: Cancelled until further notice...

News at 11:00...


I hate to say it but some of the issues you might be having might be the MAF sensor. I've come across this problem in most cars that are equipped with a MAF, and with an oil based air filter.

P.S.
Stay away from D. Dahle. Most of the work they can't figure out the send the cars to Bountiful Mazda. I would suggest that you try using a dry filter other that the K&N. Also the MS6 still uses a lot of the same sensors as the 6i model.

[denhabr]

Posting ID: denhabr
Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed 6
Duration Owned: 5-1/2 Months
Mileage: ~2700
Mods: K&N Panel Filter, 'lack of power' PCM re-flash (Sept 2006)
Fuel Octane Used: 91 Octane (highest available here at 4800' ASL in Salt Lake City, Utah)
Problem: Dramatic part-throttle tip in jerkiness and hesitation that just appeared suddenly on Jan 1 2007. Dramatic jerking of the entire car as if someone was tapping on the clutch pedal. Engine 'sounds' like it is running on 3 cylinders.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Only occurs at low RPM's while @ part throttle in the lower gears...and is most prevalent when applying the throttle at this speed. Full throttle acceleration is fine once it gets out of the lower RPM band. The car had been running perfectly before that.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Reset the engine computer (battery disconnect); added some injector cleaner; added fresh tank of 91 octane gas; limited driving - no improvement whatsoever. Took car to D. Dahle Mazda here in SLC on 12 January '07.
Resolution of Problem: They got a mechanic on it on 16 January, and after 3 days of analysis, they determined it was a, "bad O2 sensor." They then added that they had to send to Hiroshima for a new one (pissed) which they said would take at least a week. :bs: So I played along. Just found out yesterday on the 25th that the new O2 sensor from Japan is, "too big for the 'manifold'" (or so says the service manager.) Manifold? Did they mean the exhaust manifold or turbo housing? I'm departing for the dealership this afternoon to speak face to face to these folks. This is getting silly.
Current Status: Still in the D. Dahle Mazda service shop...now 14 days.
Future Plans: Cancelled until further notice...

News at 11:00...

The saga continues...

January 26 visit to D. Dahle Mazda Service Dept: According to "Brian E," the D. Dahle Service Manager, this is what happened:


The front heated O2 sensor threw a code when checked (I never got any form of CEL displayed.) The F sensor was apparently not heating at all...thus the erratic engine idle and performance at part throttle. Mazda's own Factory Tech Support folks had even been involved twice during the diagnosis of the problem.
When the Technician tried removing the F heated O2 sensor, he stripped the threads in the turbine manifold. What they told me was that there was a 'special removal procedure' for extracting the failed O2 sensor from the casting...and that the factory shop manuals failed to go into the details of that procedure...thus the stripped threads and damage to the turbine outlet manifold. (pissed)
So...after they talked with Mazda's internal tech support line a final time, D. Dahle decided to order a completely new set of parts, including a new exhaust turbine outlet manifold w/ catalyst (WU-TWC), a new F heated O2 sensor (FHO2S), a new front pipe, and a new rear heated O2 sensor (RHO2S).
Everything has arrived for installation except the rear heated O2 sensor...


So, that is where we stand as of 1600 Jan 26 2007. Hopefully I will get to pick up the car later this week (after a short business trip to Atlanta.)

P.S.: Thanks Jonscapri for the tip on the MAF sensor. I understand the situation there too...having had a Mustang GT with an oil-based K&N filter. I kept it clean with spray-on MAF cleaner...and will keep an eye on my MS6 MAF as well.

News later this week!

[mustangman]

Rainman,

Thank you for the reply. It was very frustrating and I'm glad its over. I did end up getting a fully loaded (gps etc.) for $3,000 less than what I paid for my original one, out the door. So all in all it worked out quite well.

"Denh" This sounds similar to my problem as well. (The hesitation, etc.) The best advice I can offer is be sure they open a new work order with every one of these problems and keep ALL paperwork. Then check your Supplimental Warranty booklet and look under your state for the lemon law facts. I let mine go too long before jumping on it, I'd hate to see anyone go through what I did. (Dealership kept mine a total of 4 months in 8 months of ownership.) If I can help at all shoot me a PM. Take care and good luck.

Jim

[denhabr]

The saga continues...

January 26 visit to D. Dahle Mazda Service Dept: According to "Brian E," the D. Dahle Service Manager, this is what happened:


The front heated O2 sensor threw a code when checked (I never got any form of CEL displayed.) The F sensor was apparently not heating at all...thus the erratic engine idle and performance at part throttle. Mazda's own Factory Tech Support folks had even been involved twice during the diagnosis of the problem.
When the Technician tried removing the F heated O2 sensor, he stripped the threads in the turbine manifold. What they told me was that there was a 'special removal procedure' for extracting the failed O2 sensor from the casting...and that the factory shop manuals failed to go into the details of that procedure...thus the stripped threads and damage to the turbine outlet manifold. (pissed)
So...after they talked with Mazda's internal tech support line a final time, D. Dahle decided to order a completely new set of parts, including a new exhaust turbine outlet manifold w/ catalyst (WU-TWC), a new F heated O2 sensor (FHO2S), a new front pipe, and a new rear heated O2 sensor (RHO2S).
Everything has arrived for installation except the rear heated O2 sensor...


So, that is where we stand as of 1600 Jan 26 2007. Hopefully I will get to pick up the car later this week (after a short business trip to Atlanta.)

P.S.: Thanks Jonscapri for the tip on the MAF sensor. I understand the situation there too...having had a Mustang GT with an oil-based K&N filter. I kept it clean with spray-on MAF cleaner...and will keep an eye on my MS6 MAF as well.

News later this week!

-----------------------------------------------------
Feb 8, 2007 - The Saga Ends...

Got the call from D. Dahle Service Dept. on the 2nd that the car was ready for pick up and it checked out fine. Here are excerpts from the R/O:

"Diag. Road Tested. Vehicle hessitates (sic) when driving, no MIL light no codes. Tested all fuel and intake systems all within spec. Contacted hotline and was instructed to disconnect O2 sensor, disconnected sensor and vehicle runs normal"
"Removed O2 sensor and installed new one, during install threads pulled out of the cat converter. Damaged new sensor. Removed and replaced three way cat and installed new sensor. Cleared KAM and road tested vehicle, rns normal and within spec. Verified repairs."
Installed: Sensor Air & Fuel Ratio L3M5
Installed: Converter L380

Other comments: "Customer knows part is coming from Japan...parts due 1/29/2007"

All work was performed under warranty.

Wife picked it up for me on Feb 2, and drove it home...said it was running fine. When I drove it the first time on the 8th, all operations checked out ok. Seems as if it is bit smoother in the lower end, but really runs out of steam around 4000 RPM...but performs great on the highway.

Frankly, no complaints. I'm just glad to have my car back. Case closed...for now.

[DashingMax]

I had the same exact problem as many of you guys that have the MazdaSpeed6 - Grand Touring models. The Keyless system's rear antenna (underneath the bumper cover) went bad. The driver & passenger side door handle button was working just fine.

They ordered and replaced the antenna, but it still won't work. While trying to get the rear switch working, they screwed up and disabled the driver's side switch also. To add insult to injury, they then tell me that it is my bluetooth adaptor that caused the problem. Bluetooth has been on that car since the beginning & there was never ever any problems with advanced keyless entry, whatsoever! They also made covert threats about voiding ALL warranty if I choose to escalate this issue.

This gets even better. An hour later, I take it in to a different Mazda dealer to get a second opinion and he says that my bluetooth kit would NOT cause this problem. Since they added a new Antenna, they just need to reprogram the keyless system & that is it! Unfortunately they cannot reprogram it for they will not get paid for it since a different dealer has a ticket open for my car.

I have a complaint into Mazda Customer Service. Sometimes, good customer service can make up for a not-so-good vehicle. I'll keep you guys posted...

PS: I traded in a Kia for this Mazdaspeed6. Bought it brand new, kept it for 3 years, only 2 minor warranty issues, and their customer service was EXCELLENT. I am also a panelist for Consumer Reports magazine. I had presented a positive review for Kia that they actually published online!

[Rainman]

I had the same exact problem as many of you guys that have the MazdaSpeed6 - Grand Touring models. The Keyless system's rear antenna (underneath the bumper cover) went bad. The driver & passenger side door handle button was working just fine.

They ordered and replaced the antenna, but it still won't work. While trying to get the rear switch working, they screwed up and disabled the driver's side switch also. To add insult to injury, they then tell me that it is my bluetooth adaptor that caused the problem. Bluetooth has been on that car since the beginning & there was never ever any problems with advanced keyless entry, whatsoever! They also made covert threats about voiding ALL warranty if I choose to escalate this issue.

This gets even better. An hour later, I take it in to a different Mazda dealer to get a second opinion and he says that my bluetooth kit would NOT cause this problem. Since they added a new Antenna, they just need to reprogram the keyless system & that is it! Unfortunately they cannot reprogram it for they will not get paid for it since a different dealer has a ticket open for my car.

I have a complaint into Mazda Customer Service. Sometimes, good customer service can make up for a not-so-good vehicle. I'll keep you guys posted...

PS: I traded in a Kia for this Mazdaspeed6. Bought it brand new, kept it for 3 years, only 2 minor warranty issues, and their customer service was EXCELLENT. I am also a panelist for Consumer Reports magazine. I had presented a positive review for Kia that they actually published online!

It is unfortunate that you have had this experience with the MS6. The MS6 is my third Mazda vehicle and my second Mazdaspeed vehicle. All Mazdaspeed vehicles, including my MS3, have had issues. However, my dealership has always been great handling these issues and as a result I have continued to purchase Mazda vehicles and more specifically, Mazdaspeed vehicles from them.

If your dealership has threatened you like this I would definitely bring this issue up with Mazda North America.

BTW, my keyless went out again during the winter and it was the door antennas. They replaced them a few weeks ago, but I didn't realize until this past week that the trunk antenna is still not working. I'll have to take it in this week.

R

[hotrodtrk]

I hope someone here can help. My husband has a speed 6 and he took it to the dealership yesterday. After the engine heats up he will get white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. They said that they couldnt find anything and said that it was bad gas. I am going to pick up the car tomorrow and it is still smoking. Any suggestions on what it could be?

[jdub260]

Welcome, and sorry to hear about problems.

Try reading some of these threads, this topic has been discussed in some detail already.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/search.php?searchid=3202381

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123659350&highlight=white+smoke

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123661073&highlight=white+smoke

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123655213&highlight=white+smoke

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123653092&highlight=white+smoke

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123642446&highlight=white+smoke

[hotrodtrk]

Well Hello everyone and I'm glad my wife found this site while I was on the road trucking. To give a little more detail, My care smokes really bad after warm up and after idling for about 20 seconds to 1.5 minutes ( only 14,000 miles on it). I've found that If I really get on it for a while it takes longer to smoke. But if just cruising around it will start to smoke after about 20 seconds. It smokes so bad that sometimes you can't see the cars behind me. I've also had the timing retard issue where the car knocks and the boost drops while the computer tries to correct the issue. Of course I took it to the dealer and they accused me of putting in an additive, then said that due to me being 800 miles over on the oil change and bad gas that this is most likely the cause. I basically asked what kind of crack was he on. I've played with my share of old school hot rods and built a few engines so I'm not blind to all this crap. My wife also printed the posts from this site to show them the issue and the said they were not going to look at them. I was on the road when my wife and brother-in-law picked the car up and he gave them the same line. My B-I-L then asked what type of gas does he recomend (he has also been in the car business and used to own a small dealership in Orlando) of course the adviser just said a name brand. Well I did what was asked and it's still smoking bad. I'm so ticked off I could strangle someone. I have already called in a complaint to Mazda and will follow up. I didn't pay almost 29,000 bucks for a smoking car. I'll be taking the car in Monday or Tuesday for the second try and if no result I will contact my attorney and start the next phase of negotiations. I'm not playing around. If anyone has learned anything new please feel free to let me know. I would really appreciate it.

[delmari]

My problem/concern is that after i let my car sit for a while, on take off in reverse I hear a weird clunk, almost like i'm running over something. I only hear this when i'm in reverse and it's very noticable in the morning. Any ideas as to what it could be? I still have the DSC turned on when this happens.

[delmari]

My problem/concern is that after i let my car sit for a while, on take off in reverse I hear a weird clunk, almost like i'm running over something. I only hear this when i'm in reverse and it's very noticable in the morning. Any ideas as to what it could be? I still have the DSC turned on when this happens.
Noise is coming from rear of the car.

[fraz_bb]

I've experienced something like this before. I believe my parking brake is sticking. Seems to happen most often when I have some rust on the discs.

[Rainman]

I've experienced something like this before. I believe my parking brake is sticking. Seems to happen most often when I have some rust on the discs.

This is the rotors rusting. This is a known issue with Mazda rotors for some reason. My MSP did the same thing, and now both my MS3 and my MS6 do this as well. It is usually worse in the winter or after rainfall and can happen in as short a time as overnight. In fact, my MS3 is in for service waiting for a part from Japan right now. Since the car has been sitting for 10 days they have to throw in a brake service because the rotors are so rusted.

Get used to it. It is one of the quirks that makes our cars what they are...LOL.

R

[delmari]

This is the rotors rusting. This is a known issue with Mazda rotors for some reason. My MSP did the same thing, and now both my MS3 and my MS6 do this as well. It is usually worse in the winter or after rainfall and can happen in as short a time as overnight. In fact, my MS3 is in for service waiting for a part from Japan right now. Since the car has been sitting for 10 days they have to throw in a brake service because the rotors are so rusted.

Get used to it. It is one of the quirks that makes our cars what they are...LOL.

R
Thanks for the informative responses.

[Matt'sSpeed6]

This is the rotors rusting. This is a known issue with Mazda rotors for some reason. My MSP did the same thing, and now both my MS3 and my MS6 do this as well. It is usually worse in the winter or after rainfall and can happen in as short a time as overnight. In fact, my MS3 is in for service waiting for a part from Japan right now. Since the car has been sitting for 10 days they have to throw in a brake service because the rotors are so rusted.

Get used to it. It is one of the quirks that makes our cars what they are...LOL.

R


This makes MANY Mazdas quirky and unique!!! I think it is oxidation on the rotors. My MS6 does this, my 2001 Miata does this. Most common for me after I wash the car. The best cure I have for it is to drive it a short bit to wipe off the rotors. I coast down my 100ft dirveway with a light pressure on the brakes twice before I park the car. Anything shorter does not seem to wipe the rotors clean enough. Otherwise it sounds like you broke something off - scared the shit out of me when it happenned for the first time.

M

[Killer]

all rotors rust.

[Matt'sSpeed6]

all rotors rust.

True, but not all rotors stick.

M

[hotrodtrk]

True that M, my MS6 does the same thing and it's the only car that has ever done it. I wonder if it's a cheaper or better metal compound for the rotors. I would guess that purchasing aftermarket slotted/cross drilled rotors would fix the issue. An expensive price to pay though.

[woo7]

hi, my name is andrew. sorry, if i dont follow the posting format...i've been reading for about 2 hours about this on quite a few different forums, and have yet to find something that will help immediately.

PROBLEM: about a year ago, a friend from church was driving his 1994 626 2.0L up the highway and he noticed the engine overheating. he added coolant but failed to check and notice that the drivebelt for the water pump had come off. it overheated and warped the cylinder head. well, my girlfriend's dad picked it up and has had it sitting until about a month ago. after checking everything, i determined that the cylinder head was warped and brought it in to be checked. it was warped 16 thousandths. i bought a 1993 mazda that had a siezed bearing in the bottom end. the cylinder head was still good, so i took it off with a few other things. i cleaned up the head and put it back on. i timed the cams correctly, as far as i know...i read various articles and according to them, i did it right. got everything back together, and got the spark plugs in...yay! went to start it the other night and it would not. i drained the gas, which was about a year old and put about 5 gallons of new gas in it. tried to start it and it still would not start. pulled the plugs, made sure there was spark, there is. looked into the cylinders and noted that there was quite a bit of gas in them. i havent checked fuel pressure, but i have changed the fuel pressure regulator. there are two connectors on the passenger side of the intake manifold that have vacuum lines coming out, but two of the vacuum lines on the bottom electrical connector have been removed and there are no more connectors left. there is only one and it looks like a vacuum control that has a vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator...does anyone know if there should be another connector somewhere for the other one? there is on the other car, but i noticed that it was wired differently. i dont know if anyone has any suggestions as to what those connectors are, but if anyone can help i'd really appreciate it. i need to get this car going. also, if anyone has any other suggestions about the entire situation, i'm open to suggestion.

p.s. i know the gasket for the throttle body is bad, and i will change that asap, whether or not that has any effect on whether or not it would start...please and thank you for all additions to the thread.... :D

[s734k]

Hey all,

Some of the posts about the "downshift clunk" and "deccel clunk" sound familiar... I just dropped mine off today for something similiar and they are replacing the entire rear-end.

Kinda makes me think the AWD system was shoved in to compete with the STI and EVO without the ability to really withstand the power it's pushing. Then again, there's a lot of guys out there running the stock rear-end with a TON of power and having no problems...

Oh well... I tried to convince myself this car wasn't a Ford for the longest time. Justifying it by that little "Assembled in Hiroshima, Japan" and "Parts: 100% Japan".... Nope, still a Ford... anyone want to buy a MSP6 with 21k and a brand new rear end? SRT-8 here I come! :)

-s7

[No6thGear]

Posting ID:No6thgear
Model:06 Mazdaspeed6
Duration Owned:almost 1 yr
Mileage:11k
Mods:none
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem:When slowing down to stop, i hear a clunk and feel it also. In gear or not.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:anytime
Steps Taken to Address Problem:FILL UP AIR IN REAR TIRES!
Resolution of Problem:FILL UP AIR IN REAR TIRES
Current Status:fixed
Future Plans:intake, bov

So yeah, i couldnt for the life of me figure out what went wrong, one day i thought differential, then though of tire wear, from there i connected that my tire pressure might be off. Back tires were low...filled them up and no more clunk. Im sure this has been happening to others out there.

[chriscecc914]

i heard that clunk in the rear of my car (especially in the morning) and it soon turned into a broken axle. had the axle warrantied and it never happened again

[MS6Calgary]

I have a 2006 Speed 6 and I am going insane with a rattle / creaking noise that seems to be coming from 2 locations inside the car. One from the driver's seat, the other from somewhere around the rear passenger seat. I can't seem to track down where it is coming from and I was wondering if anyone else is having these problems. Let me know. Cheers.

[Matt'sSpeed6]

I have a 2006 Speed 6 and I am going insane with a rattle / creaking noise that seems to be coming from 2 locations inside the car. One from the driver's seat, the other from somewhere around the rear passenger seat. I can't seem to track down where it is coming from and I was wondering if anyone else is having these problems. Let me know. Cheers.


(iagree)

I have this same issue - when the car's interior is FREAKING hot and it is just beginning to cool down inside.

I never noticed it during colder months, so I am assuming it is related to the heat. I have approx. 12,000 miles on the car.

This is only a minor problem I am having with this car........

[duckdive]

Model: 2004 Mazda6S
Duration Owned:1 year
Mileage:49,950 (50 miles of warranty left)
Mods:K&N air filter
Fuel Octane Used:89
Problem: Idles over 2,000 RPM when starting
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Always after sitting for a day min.
Steps Taken to Address Problem: taken to dealer, they claim it is normal
Resolution of Problem: none
Current Status: Sitting apart at dealer as they are replacing 3rd gear synchronizer and shifting fork and some other transmission issues. Last month it had the recall work done where they flashed the CPU and replaced the fan control mod. Also they replaced the starter because it would make a rearing noise when starting. I had complained about the high idle prior to this recall/warranty work. They claimed to not be able to be able to simulate problem. I took the car to another dealer and they also couldn't find any problems. I went in and showed them the transmission issue and the high revs. The mechanic made a confused face when the RPM was a bit over 2000 but the intake guy claimed it was normal. My question to him was if this is normal why had it never done this before 2 months ago. He explained that it will do it to warm the engine up in the winter or when it has not been driven in a while. However, again, it never did this last winter or after sitting for up to a week. I don't think this is normal but i don't know what to tell them to replace to fix the problem, that is if its a problem. Is this a problem? i have heard that the mazda supercharged cx-7 will do this but my car is not supercharged and it has had the K&N filter the whole time I've owned it. Can someone please help. Thanks

[Qwik6]

Posting ID:Qwik6
Model:MAZDASPEED6 Sport
Duration Owned:11 Months
Mileage:33,XXX
Mods:MS CAI, Magnaflow Exhaust, HKS SSQV
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem:1.Sputtering 2.Clunking in rear end
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:1.Under normal accelleration the car would have very hard miss making the car slam back and forth. 2.Steady clunking comming from the rear end.
Steps Taken to Address Problem:1. Swirl valve has been replaced twice. Reflashed twice. 2. Front axles replaced. Rear passnger side axle replaced. Clunking still. In shop now waiting for drivers side rear axle.
Resolution of Problem: No resolutions still sputtering every few weeks with CEL. Rear end still clunking.
Current Status:In Shop
Future Plans:

edit:
replacing the drivers side rear axle did the trick

[briangmr]

Model: 2007 MazdaSpeed 6
Duration Owned:<1 year
Mileage:28,000
Mods:Mazda Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Fuel Octane Used:91
Oil Used: Mobil 1 Synthetic
Problem: Blown engine
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:Event occurred after what appeared to be detonation (sputtering) at ~2,500RPM in 5th gear on the freeway
Steps Taken to Address Problem: taken to dealer, I'm missing two of my oil change receipts and the oil is due for a change, Mazda and dealer claim bottom end failures are due solely to poor lubrication and with dirty oil and missing receipts they want me to pay $13k for a new engine
Resolution of Problem: sell my children and replace engine, NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA AGAIN, lawsuit?
Current Status: Sitting dead at the dealership, beyond sticking their finger in the oil, no further diagnostics have been performed. Mazda will not honor warranty (or in dealer speak, they choose not to participate in resolving my problem)

Original thread with more detail here: http://mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123702905

[kevo26]

Model: 2006 MazdaSpeed 6
Duration Owned: 21 months
Mileage: 8,600
Mods: FMIC, APE
Fuel Octane Used: V-Power
Oil Used: Royal Purple
Problem: Blown engine
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Event occurred after what appeared to be detonation (sputtering) at ~2,500RPM in 6th gear on the freeway
Steps Taken to Address Problem: taken to dealer, without even looking into the problem instantly deny me warranty when saw FMIC.
Resolution of Problem: Blow up mazda dealer while my car is in there...claim on insurance.
Current Status: Sitting dead at the dealership, beyond looking under the hood, no further diagnostics have been performed. Mazda will not honor warranty (or in dealer speak, they choose not to participate in resolving my problem)

[zoomzoomnavarro]

Posting ID:
Model:2007 mazda speed 6 gt
Duration Owned:over 1 year
Mileage:15k
Mods:stock!
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem: when in 5th or 6th between 2000 and 3100 rpms when accelorating the car sputters and looses power.
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:see obove
Steps Taken to Address Problem: the dealer replaced the fuel pump but it didnt fix it, i've had other speed owners come into the dealership with the same problem but they cant figure out what it is either
Resolution of Problem: tryed the fuel pump
Current Status:still does it
Future Plans: maby you can give me some sugestions?

[zoomzoomnavarro]

there was a ervice advisory on the fuel pump, it didnt fix mine ut maby it will help yours... take it to a different mazda dealership. If your in oregon go to Herzog-Meier. they are the best

[bigmixx]

Posting ID: bigmixx
Model: 2006 Speed6 Sport
Duration Owned: 1 year, 11 months
Mileage: 39,800
Mods: Chrome Valve Stem Caps
Fuel Octane Used: 93 All the time
Problems:
1. Blown seal in the turbo causing billowing white smoke. Turbo was replaced under warranty
2. Currently in the shop. Dealer says early diagnosis is a bad ignition coil
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Normal day to day driving
Steps Taken to Address Problem: None yeat
Resolution of Problem: Awaiting dealer full diagnosis
Current Status: At the dealer
Future Plans: Trade it in before something else breaks after the warranty expires

[Obiwan Jacoby]

Model: 2007 Mazda6s 3.0
Duration Owned:<1 year
Mileage:52,000
Mods: none
Fuel Octane Used: 87
Oil Used: Valvoline 5w20
Problem: Trans doesn't want to shift properly...
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Getting off of a highway and then merging onto another...


Any help here would be very helpful, I'm kinda nervous about going out and driving it right now. This morning I was on my way into work, and as I was getting off of one highway, and onto another... I was on the on ramp... and my car was staying in 6th gear. I was cruising around 40 mph, so I didn't think anything of it, but when it came time to re-accelerate onto the highway, I was pressing the gas, but my engine was not going along. Then, my trans tried to find where I was, and dropped down to 3rd gear, then it caught up with my foot on the pedal, shot up to about 5K rpm, but wouldn't shift up.

So by this time, I now have idiots flashing their lights at me, honking like I was doing something wrong... so I threw on my hazards and tried to continue to accelerate.

The car then started to do what I could best describe as someone who doesn't know how to drive a manual car... and its trying to stall, the car jerks forward and backward... but meanwhile.. it finally evened itself out... and started to slowly reaccelerate for me.

This happened to me 3 times this morning... so I pulled off of the highways and stuck to surface roads... and I had no problem. But then again, I was coming to a complete stop and it was able to drop back down to 1st gear.

Now, it was raining a bit last night, and I was pretty low on gas, so right before I got to work I filled up my tank, just in hopes that it could be water in the gas tank... but I'm not sure if those symptoms would make me believe it was water in the tank.

I'm going to take my car out at lunch time and see if it still does it when I try to get onto the highway...

Anyone have any other advice?

[Obiwan Jacoby]

And yes, I know my car is not a speed6, but this seemed like a thread where others were giving some help for car troubles...

[sykopat]

Posting ID: Sykopat
Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT
Duration Owned: 4 months
Mileage: 58500km
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 94
Problem: White smoke coming out of exhaust
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:after 45min of traffic and 10min at idle
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Inspected by dealer, could not reproduce the issue
Resolution of Problem: None.
Current Status: Waiting for turbo to explode/crack open under hood.
Future Plans: Find a Mazda dealer that will provide decent customer service.

[Shagate]

You probably have a bad rod or syncro on your transmission. It won't cause "future" damage by driving, but not something I'd want to let sit for obvious reasons (can't shift, duh).

Happened to me in my old mustang. Of course everything broke at least once on that garbage.

[Newf]

Speed6
Ongoing issue for over a year

Between 2500-3500 rpms, and gears 2nd through 6. While under normal acceleration, not hard acceleration, engine sometimes clicks or knocks like a knock sensor going nuts. Sound comes from right side of engine, just behind glove box area. Once it clicks/knocks, dark white smoke comes out of back end. Sometimes it'll click/knock a few times, others times it's a dozen clicks. Can not accelerate during noise, lift off of throttle stops the noise, and doesn't return again for some time. Seems to happen after just going up a hill, or just coming off of a hill. Happening more lately. 30,000 kms on car.

Dealer has been arsing around for a year or more. The problem is, it never happens when they test drive it. No CEL shows, even rode around with mechanic with computer connected and sure enough, no obvious issue. Guessing fuel pump issue, waiting for more "tests" to be ran. I did just this week get the mechanic ( nice guy wanting to help) to hear the noise very briefly so at least now they take it serious.

Will update again later on.

Seems to be similar to quite a few other MS6's on this forum and others. Seems to be a rather large problem effecting hundreds if not more. Of course Mazda again denies it to be a real issue.

[amilliems6]

i had a loss of power on my car yesterday. like i was giving my friend a ride cuz i just got my car and it felt like the car was not as powerful as it was the first day i got it????

[Alexander37]

Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed6
Duration Owned: 2years+
Mileage: 33,000 miles
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used: 93
Problem: Hesitation/Bucking, Lack of Power, car stalling at idle
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: started at 14,000 miles
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Car has been in and out of dealer continuously for the past year.
Resolution of Problem: Going back to 2007 work that has been done
1. Reflash per TSB(completed on more than one occasion) issue continued
2. Found 2 bad coil packs (replaced) bucking came back
3. Replaced Swirl Valve per TSB (replaced) bucking came back
4. Replaced MAF and O2 Sensor (replaced) bucking came back
after all of this, then the car started stalling anytime clutch was fully depressed....so then
4. Fuel Pump TSB (replaced) stalling continued
5. Clutch Type A TSB (replaced) still stalling
6. Valve replacement (replaced) still stalling
7. Solenoid replacement due to CEL (replaced) still not right
and finally after 48 days straight in the shop.....and 3 technicians
8. BRAND NEW ENGINE AND TURBO!!!
My dealer had stated that engine had no oil pressure, and even before this was found had stated that Engine from numerous road tests felt "tired" and needed to be replaced. My dealer was great through the whole process, kept me informed daily, but home office was making them jump through hoops to get the engine ordered and installed.
Current Status: Car finally back home, and drives like the day it was driven off the lot with 7 miles on it. (A new engine should do that!)
Future Plans: Hope the car never has to go to the shop for any problem again.

[jonscapri]

Speed6
Ongoing issue for over a year

Between 2500-3500 rpms, and gears 2nd through 6. While under normal acceleration, not hard acceleration, engine sometimes clicks or knocks like a knock sensor going nuts. Sound comes from right side of engine, just behind glove box area. Once it clicks/knocks, dark white smoke comes out of back end. Sometimes it'll click/knock a few times, others times it's a dozen clicks. Can not accelerate during noise, lift off of throttle stops the noise, and doesn't return again for some time. Seems to happen after just going up a hill, or just coming off of a hill. Happening more lately. 30,000 kms on car.

Dealer has been arsing around for a year or more. The problem is, it never happens when they test drive it. No CEL shows, even rode around with mechanic with computer connected and sure enough, no obvious issue. Guessing fuel pump issue, waiting for more "tests" to be ran. I did just this week get the mechanic ( nice guy wanting to help) to hear the noise very briefly so at least now they take it serious.

Will update again later on.

Seems to be similar to quite a few other MS6's on this forum and others. Seems to be a rather large problem effecting hundreds if not more. Of course Mazda again denies it to be a real issue.


One of the guys I know around here has a Speed 6 that had a similar issue, and it sounded like knock, and he couldn't get the power out of the motor.

After being to the dealer several times they actually found the issue. It was a problem with the fuel system, Fisrt being a bad injector, and second was the high pressure fuel pump. THey replaced, and tested under more aggressive conditions. It's been fine for about 10 months now.

[lilacwine]

0o0oo0oh one more thing.. big problem i'd like everyone to check out...

whenever it rains real hard my trunk leaks water into the little space where your jack goes. I guess it is a bad body seal..anyone else have that problem??

Yes. I've had my MS6 for five years and, just this month, noticed water in the space by the jack and under the donut. Several inches of water and there's a decent amount of rust on the jack. Checked it again this week after a light rain and there was about 1/4" of water.

I can't figure out where the leak is.

Off to the body shop or the dealer?

[Blendercloud]

to tell you the truth I haven't noticed any water build up in there in the past few months. funny thing is i have tried to simulate hard rain with my water hose and it never leaks into the trunk.

i would say to take out all the fabric panels around the jack area and wait and watch to see where it comes from.
if anything it is a bad seal and you could probably use caulk to seal it if your see where it comes from.

good luck

Sounds like a leak in one of the rear wheel wells. Water being propelled from one of the tires is probably leaking through an unsealed seam. -if I had to guess without seeing the car.

[wannabe]

or a broken drain somewhere else that is redirecting to the trunk. the wife had an issue like that in her old car, was leaking from the moonroof, but she only saw water at the back window (in a hatchback)

[lynnriderm6]

Model: 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 sport
Duration Owned:7/8 months nov. 2008
Mileage:36,307
Mods:Mazdaspeed cai, turbo xs hybrid bov,18 inch enkei rz5 rims,custom 3 inch exhaust, custom boost gauge
Fuel Octane Used:93
Oil Used:royal purple
Problem:none knock on wood/did at one point some valve went but idk and i had a random misfire but hasnt shown up in 2-3 months
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:normal day to day driving
Steps Taken to Address Problem:brought it to the dealership
Resolution of Problem:warrenty coverd it
Current Status: just waiting to get some motor mounts

[jonscapri]

06 MS6
MS CAI, test pipe, Maganflow Mufflers, CP-E Diff Mount (New today).

Well lets chalk up another axle for me, and that in turn took the diff mount with it.

[richhill23]

I have an MS6 that has a loud, very loud, thumping coming from the front end of the car. It is the same sound that a warped rotor would make when stopping but this is through all rotation increasing with speed. I have tried the lugs, tires, and there is no visual damage to the Cv's or axle. I lifted the tires to check the wheel bearing but felt no amount of play or shifting. Any ideas on this one. I also checked the cat con and everything else under the car to insure tightness.

[rapter]

owned car for 6 months
94 octane used.
2006 Grand touring edition.
52,000 km.
The problem occurs mostly in cold weather.
I have seen others with this same problem. so i'll post it too.
My trunk open button doesnt open. and the Key light truns red for a week or 2.
and than none of the buttons on the car worked.

resolution: instead of taking it to the dealer, I first replaced the battery in the FOB. than i turned the battery off in the car for 10 mins.

and i sprayed a silcone type glue on the back under the trunk where the Fob antenna is located, right onto the ground wire.

few days past by and the problem went away and no problems since. I know electronically if the ground wire freezes in cold weather and gets wet, the system will short out. MAKE SURE its dry and WARMs up when you do this that way all water evaporates.
thats what i did, use this info at your own risk, but i havent had any problems since.

thanks good Thrread!

[piotrekkb0]

what is the problem for mazdaspeed 6 me 4 times is the problem for my transfer case oil leaking

[snooky]

Mazdaspeed 6 GT
2007
33,000km
Problem. as i role i hear squeaking noises, had the brakes checked removed and lubricated, but yet still hearing this noise. my mechanic says its probably due to my drilled slotted rotors, debris getting in the holes...

this noise is not very loud but loud enough to make me crazy!

what else could it be?

[Eyedea23]

Sorry just didnt really feel like using the format cause didnt have much time to post this.

Car- 06 Mazdaspeed 6 GT, 40k miles, 10k on since bought owned for 10 months

So for the past month, car has been in and out of shops with problems. First car was smoking badly, was only peaking at about 10 psi boost wise, was misfiring badly round 3k rpms and idle was very unstable almost stalling. First step i took was to replace the turbo, figured wasnt getting full power to the turbo seals blow, with the oil going through my system. Replaced that, smoking stopped. Idle still barely held, still misfired badly, and still had low boost. On the way back from the shop that swapped out my turbo, i downshifted making a right from 4th to 3rd and car jerked hard and threw a code. said a cylinder was misfiring and that it was due to a weak ignition system, had it looked at and replaced my battery and spark plugs. This solved the idle problem, but engine still misfired. A couple days after i got it back once again, i was driving down the street, shifted into 3rd from 2nd, and clutch blew. Once again, took it into the shop got the clutch swapped out. Engine was still misfiring slightly and turbo was still boosting bout 10 psi, but was definitely drivable. Well sadly to say.. a couple days later (today) i was accelerating from a red light and heard a loud pop under the heard, engine seized, oil light came on, and there was oil splattered all over the engine bay. Having it looked at tomorrow, but have a feeling i threw a rod. Had it in multiple shops including dealership, and no one could figure out what was wrong or what to do. They just thought it was the parts that i replaced. Anyone have any ideas before i move forward with anyone else?

[Super Shredder]

Sorry just didnt really feel like using the format cause didnt have much time to post this.

Car- 06 Mazdaspeed 6 GT, 40k miles, 10k on since bought owned for 10 months

So for the past month, car has been in and out of shops with problems. First car was smoking badly, was only peaking at about 10 psi boost wise, was misfiring badly round 3k rpms and idle was very unstable almost stalling. First step i took was to replace the turbo, figured wasnt getting full power to the turbo seals blow, with the oil going through my system. Replaced that, smoking stopped. Idle still barely held, still misfired badly, and still had low boost. On the way back from the shop that swapped out my turbo, i downshifted making a right from 4th to 3rd and car jerked hard and threw a code. said a cylinder was misfiring and that it was due to a weak ignition system, had it looked at and replaced my battery and spark plugs. This solved the idle problem, but engine still misfired. A couple days after i got it back once again, i was driving down the street, shifted into 3rd from 2nd, and clutch blew. Once again, took it into the shop got the clutch swapped out. Engine was still misfiring slightly and turbo was still boosting bout 10 psi, but was definitely drivable. Well sadly to say.. a couple days later (today) i was accelerating from a red light and heard a loud pop under the heard, engine seized, oil light came on, and there was oil splattered all over the engine bay. Having it looked at tomorrow, but have a feeling i threw a rod. Had it in multiple shops including dealership, and no one could figure out what was wrong or what to do. They just thought it was the parts that i replaced. Anyone have any ideas before i move forward with anyone else?


for the entire time from the first misfire to the funky idle, you should have stopped driving your car. thats what i have to say about that. the fact that you continued to drive it, instead of waiting until it was 100% again, is the reason why it blew. even if not 100% how does the clutch blow from a misfire code? sounds to me like the car was being redlined. or at least going into boost often since you obviously went WOT to test it out not getting past 10psi.

[Eyedea23]

I was driving the car very easy due to the slight misfires, so I dont know why the clutch blew... but yes I knew it would be better to not drive it, but that wasnt really an option if i wanted to keep my job =/ I bought the car used and have been pretty careful with it since I bought it, so im thinking that maybe the person before me drove it hard.

[ChiLLYWiLLY]

Hello got a question! What's a firing order for cylinders on a mazada 6 2.3L can anyone help me out here?

[amillman2]

Snooky, What lip is that on you MS6?? it looks great! so does that open grill.. Good taste man.

[ms6zoey]

Posting ID: MS6zoey
Model: 2007 Mazdaspeed6 Grand touring
Duration Owned: <6 months
Mileage:26,000
Mods:stock
Fuel Octane Used:94

Problem: 1. Clutch was difficult to operate for normal day to day driving. 2. rattling somewhere from steering column. 3. pop from stock sub. 4. driver window fell out of alignment. 5. motor mount was defective.

Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: 1. daily driving. 2. usually up hill but happened regularly. 3. whenever vehicle was turned on and off. 4. happened while removing tint my mistake. (previous owner used crappy tint film) 5. Motor mount defective.

Steps Taken to Address Problem:1. took to dealership. 2. took to dealership. 3. took to dealership. 4. took to dealership (to see if it was covered in warranty) 5. dealership found issue while doing the clutch TSB.

Resolution of Problem: 1. Clutch TSB was done. (after 4 months of searching for the right dealership to be willing to do the work) 2. dealership tighten a few loose screws or bolts (did not resolve issue, does not bother me to much I'm sure i could fix it myself) 3. dealership replaced head unit, all speakers and sub, did not fix the issue (got new Bose system FTW). they claimed it was "normal." 4. dealership realigned window no charge :). 5. Dealership replaced mount no charge covered under warranty.

Current Status:at the dealership getting clutch TSB done and replacing motor mount, been there for 5 days! waiting on Mount to ship in dealer did not have the part.

Future Plans: after i verify there are no more problems that may be covered in warranty will start to mod. start with CAI, BOV, exhaust, TPIC, etc...