2001 Protege 2.0 random misfire - symptoms

[rtrussel]

A couple of months ago, my 01 Protege began hesitating and the engine light was flashing. I drove the car for a number of hours afterwards and got the problem again. Mechanic said it had a Cylinder 2 misfire code and replaced plugs. Days later, same problem, but now registering as Random Misfire. One mechanic said the coilpacks should be replaced and another said that coilpacks are not the issue, but he couldn't figure out what the problem was.

So, I tried a couple things myself and have the following observations:
1. When it hesitates, stepping on the gas pedal has little or no effect - it just feels like it's stuck for a few seconds and then it kicks back in
2. The problem seems to stop when Pennzoil Gas Treatment is added to the tank and reoccurs on the next fill up without treatment
3. Hesitation tends to happen more when moving up or down hills
4. On at least one occurrence, a large white puff was emitted from the tailpipe (it was dark, so I didn't see it clearly). It occurred while I was travelling up a steep hill and threw the car back in 4th.

When I first saw the big white puff, I thought I'd blown a head gasket, but this isn't the case. Would this have been unburned fuel vapor? I'm thinking a fuel flush and injector cleaner as the next steps. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms and are there any recommendations out there on what to do??

[DiS]

hmmm sounds a bit familiar to ViCS problem but let me ask you something before making any asumptions. Do you hear any kind of loud clunking/ticking from the motor while idling in one spot or driving? If so, is it rpm dependant? (meaning does the clunking get faster when rpm increase?)

[rtrussel]

Do you hear any kind of loud clunking/ticking from the motor while idling in one spot or driving? If so, is it rpm dependant? (meaning does the clunking get faster when rpm increase?)

Thanks for your reply - no, I don't hear anything out of the ordinary when idling or moving. The car runs and sounds absolutely perfect and then the hesitation will seemingly come out of nowhere.

One more observation - the other day I was parked on a downhill slope - the car hesitated to start, idled extremely low/rough and died. When I restarted, it was fine again. The gas tank was nearly full at the time.....

[DiS]

in that case, I have to say that you have a damaged EGR valve. I had this shit happen to my car when I had ViCS problem (long story, hehe, if interested in info, look for stickied thread "ViCS screw list"). Car started decelerating pretty fast on the highway, like it wanted to die (was at 50mph) so I put it in neutral and It fell below the idle...good thing I cought it in time and threw it back in 3rd gear to get some high rpm going). As soon as I pulled into the parking lot and came to a stop, my car just died. I tried starting it but it wouldn't. It took me 15-20 seconds to get it started and I also had to pump the gas pedal to get it going. Once it started, I let the clutch go and it died again. Towed the car to the dealer and they replaced the EGR valve. They said it was damaged internally. Since my EGR valve was replaced, I didnt have this problem anymore.

Hope this helps.

[rtrussel]

Thanks DiS,

I heard that the EGR valve is a weakspot on this model. I discussed this with a mechanic who said that the diagnostic would differentiate it from a random misfire, but I'm starting to doubt that now. When I think back, my sister was driving behind me one night and said she smelled a bad exhaust odor but wasn't sure if it was me or not. I suspect a faulty EGR would cause smelly exhaust, so I'll definitely discuss this with my local mechanic. I appreciate your feedback and I'll let you know how things go....

rtrussel

[DiS]

Thanks DiS,

I heard that the EGR valve is a weakspot on this model. I discussed this with a mechanic who said that the diagnostic would differentiate it from a random misfire, but I'm starting to doubt that now. When I think back, my sister was driving behind me one night and said she smelled a bad exhaust odor but wasn't sure if it was me or not. I suspect a faulty EGR would cause smelly exhaust, so I'll definitely discuss this with my local mechanic. I appreciate your feedback and I'll let you know how things go....

rtrussel

yea if EGR valve goes to shit, your emissions will get worse, which will result in more unburnt fuel coming out of your exhaust. That is what your sis was smelling. Yea man, it really sux ass.

Please keep us updated. I hope that you will take care of the problem asap (thumb)

[ebmp5]

A couple of months ago, my 01 Protege began hesitating and the engine light was flashing. I drove the car for a number of hours afterwards and got the problem again. Mechanic said it had a Cylinder 2 misfire code and replaced plugs. Days later, same problem, but now registering as Random Misfire. One mechanic said the coilpacks should be replaced and another said that coilpacks are not the issue, but he couldn't figure out what the problem was.

So, I tried a couple things myself and have the following observations:
1. When it hesitates, stepping on the gas pedal has little or no effect - it just feels like it's stuck for a few seconds and then it kicks back in
2. The problem seems to stop when Pennzoil Gas Treatment is added to the tank and reoccurs on the next fill up without treatment
3. Hesitation tends to happen more when moving up or down hills
4. On at least one occurrence, a large white puff was emitted from the tailpipe (it was dark, so I didn't see it clearly). It occurred while I was travelling up a steep hill and threw the car back in 4th.

When I first saw the big white puff, I thought I'd blown a head gasket, but this isn't the case. Would this have been unburned fuel vapor? I'm thinking a fuel flush and injector cleaner as the next steps. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms and are there any recommendations out there on what to do??


i having the same problem also. and this is keeping me from being able to boost with my car.

i am getting both symton's as u and DIS. but my car run's tho.

i get the random misfire's and my car want's to die when i take the cluth out and want to come to a stop. but it pick's it self back up and doesn't die.

also when i start in the morning the idle tend's to bounce up and down alot and then settle it self.

this is what i done so far and had some sort of progress.
1- clean out the egr valve
2- check my o2censor's.
3-swap my ecu cuz the other one i had was fried.
4- i had a falty ground wire.
5- swaped my maf sensor aswell.

well i dont no what to next so if find out what happend let me no bro thx
emilio

[DiS]

i having the same problem also. and this is keeping me from being able to boost with my car.

i am getting both symton's as u and DIS. but my car run's tho.

i get the random misfire's and my car want's to die when i take the cluth out and want to come to a stop. but it pick's it self back up and doesn't die.

also when i start in the morning the idle tend's to bounce up and down alot and then settle it self.

this is what i done so far and had some sort of progress.
1- clean out the egr valve
2- check my o2censor's.
3-swap my ecu cuz the other one i had was fried.
4- i had a falty ground wire.
5- swaped my maf sensor aswell.

well i dont no what to next so if find out what happend let me no bro thx
emilio
on the contrary, hehe
ebmp5, do you get the clunking?

[idrivemazda]

i get the clunking as well and ticking noise is really loud. My dad says is one of the valves. I also am loosing oil really quick. Can someone tell me what to do?

[Protephile]

Clunking from inside the engine compartment + rough idle = very bad.
Please describe your problem in more detail...

[rtrussel]

Well, back to my mechanic today who hooked up the computer to my car and found a "multiple misfire" code - the guy is revered for his knowledge of Japanese cars and he says there's no indication the problem is in the EGR valve as the computer would indicate this, although he said himself it's common on the 01 Protege's (my gut tells me the EGR might still be the driving factor...). He said in his experience there's a 50/50 chance it has something to do with the ignition system and if not that then maybe the fuel system, O2 sensor, or the throttle position sensor. I'm not sure if he really caught the smelly exhaust symptom when I was going through my issues, so maybe a pollution test might lend more clues here.

He also said there was a second code reading, apparently "unrelated" having to do with the catalytic converter. Threw some potent fuel system cleaner in the tank tonight and will see what it does in the coming days.

This could get shitty - any other ideas floating out there? DiS, do you know anything about these computer readings and could this guy be wrong?

[DiS]

i get the clunking as well and ticking noise is really loud. My dad says is one of the valves. I also am loosing oil really quick. Can someone tell me what to do?

here is the thread about ViCS screw failure problem. You might have it.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123619298

Well, back to my mechanic today who hooked up the computer to my car and found a "multiple misfire" code - the guy is revered for his knowledge of Japanese cars and he says there's no indication the problem is in the EGR valve as the computer would indicate this, although he said himself it's common on the 01 Protege's (my gut tells me the EGR might still be the driving factor...). He said in his experience there's a 50/50 chance it has something to do with the ignition system and if not that then maybe the fuel system, O2 sensor, or the throttle position sensor. I'm not sure if he really caught the smelly exhaust symptom when I was going through my issues, so maybe a pollution test might lend more clues here.

He also said there was a second code reading, apparently "unrelated" having to do with the catalytic converter. Threw some potent fuel system cleaner in the tank tonight and will see what it does in the coming days.

This could get shitty - any other ideas floating out there? DiS, do you know anything about these computer readings and could this guy be wrong?
well as far as I can tell, computer readings would be corrent one way or another. Any mechanic is different, and some mechanics might have a different opinion.

One of the other things that I can recommend, is pulling the spark plugs out and checking the gap on each of them. I dont remember whats the correct gap but you shouldnt have any problem looking it up here on the forums (thumb). Plus since its Multi-cyl. misfire, it also might be one of 2 coil packs. See if you can go back to that mechanic and swap the coil packs from one to another's place. Then run the diagnostic test on a computer again and see if multi-cyl. misfire code changed from 1 and 2 cylinders to 3 and 4th or vise versa.

By the way you can always buy an OBD-II scanner at any local auto store (pep-boys, auto-zone) and check the CEL codes by yourself. Thats what I do.

[idrivemazda]

Damn im having the same problem with the whole turning and engine light coming on. I'm so clueless but then i look at my engine cover/valve cover and there is a quater size oil leak by the oil cap. So im thinking is it from there im loosing my oil. Then my dad says its one of my valves that is messed up because there is a ticking noise from the engine and clunking noise and thats whats robbing the horse power and oil. Where should i start by fixing this problem? is it common on these cars? oh and i did one more thing i checked my spark plugs and they are done so i replaced them and less then 3 mths i had to replace them help guys?
__________________

[Protephile]

Damn im having the same problem with the whole turning and engine light coming on. I'm so clueless but then i look at my engine cover/valve cover and there is a quater size oil leak by the oil cap. So im thinking is it from there im loosing my oil. Then my dad says its one of my valves that is messed up because there is a ticking noise from the engine and clunking noise and thats whats robbing the horse power and oil. Where should i start by fixing this problem? is it common on these cars? oh and i did one more thing i checked my spark plugs and they are done so i replaced them and less then 3 mths i had to replace them help guys?
__________________

One way is to pull your plugs and look at them closely, esp. #4. If there is
damage (like something hitting it damage) or the gap is closed, get it to the dealer immy.

[DiS]

Damn im having the same problem with the whole turning and engine light coming on. I'm so clueless but then i look at my engine cover/valve cover and there is a quater size oil leak by the oil cap. So im thinking is it from there im loosing my oil. Then my dad says its one of my valves that is messed up because there is a ticking noise from the engine and clunking noise and thats whats robbing the horse power and oil. Where should i start by fixing this problem? is it common on these cars? oh and i did one more thing i checked my spark plugs and they are done so i replaced them and less then 3 mths i had to replace them help guys?
__________________

idrivemazda: You have to stop driving your car NOW! otherwise you will cause more problems to the motor. I've made a write-up regarding the problem that you are experiencing. Read more info here http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123619298 (thumb)

hope you will get your car fixed asap!!!

[suki]

I am haveing the same problem now for almost 2 months. (rant)

I had the front oxygen sensor replaced and it was fine for 2 days.

I just had a friend run it again and he said I need to replace the catalytic converter (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=catalytic+converter&spell=1) because its clogged.


My car just rolled 60k and i'm about to drive it in the river. (rant)

[idrivemazda]

thank dis i hope i get my car fix! how much do you think im looking to spend

[DiS]

thank dis i hope i get my car fix! how much do you think im looking to spend
deppending on the damage man. How many miles do you have on your car again? When my ViCS screws failed to hold up, my car was only at 32k miles and it was fixed under warranty. Dealer spent $5,429 USD on parts and labor (labor was almost 750 bucks or something like that). If your cylinder head is still fine (no scratches) then in a worst case you will have to replace the intake manifold. Thats gonna be around 470 bucks I presume.

[rtrussel]

Hi suki,

Interesting about your catalytic converter as this came up on the computer with my protege that has just over 60k miles on it! I'm not overly mechanical and I'm wondering if a clogged cat converter could actually cause a misfire due to insufficient exhaust flow???

[DiS]

Hi suki,

Interesting about your catalytic converter as this came up on the computer with my protege that has just over 60k miles on it! I'm not overly mechanical and I'm wondering if a clogged cat converter could actually cause a misfire due to insufficient exhaust flow???

do you actually get the misfire code or do you get a "CAT something something under threshhold"?

[rtrussel]

do you actually get the misfire code or do you get a "CAT something something under threshhold"?

Two codes were read - Multiple Misfire and the CAT code. Mechanic says they're unrelated, but it seems to be awfully coincidental....

[DiS]

Two codes were read - Multiple Misfire and the CAT code. Mechanic says they're unrelated, but it seems to be awfully coincidental....

I assume its the 1st PRE-CAT CEL code. Its quite possible that the ViCS screw went through the cylinder head, came out through the exhaust manifold and on the way to the cat hit the o2 sensor. I presume thats what happened, but I might be wrong. 70/30 % chance.

[rtrussel]

I assume its the 1st PRE-CAT CEL code. Its quite possible that the ViCS screw went through the cylinder head, came out through the exhaust manifold and on the way to the cat hit the o2 sensor. I presume thats what happened, but I might be wrong. 70/30 % chance.

Thanks DiS,

I have been hearing a rattle from the CAT area and assumed it was just a loose shield - I'm now wondering if it's the ViCS screw bouncing around! Would this make sense? I'm up in Canada and there's a pile of snow everywhere, so getting underneath the car isn't too easy. On the plus side, it has 98+k kilometers on it and the warranty is for 100k, so I might just squeak this through if this is indeed the issue. I'm thinking of going straight to the dealer at this point as I don't want them to bullshit me about it not being warranted if another guy starts pulling stuff apart. One thing I'm still a little unclear of though - why would fuel stabilizer temporary stop the hesitation? Is it just enough of a fuel boost to keep it going perhaps?

[rtrussel]

Here's the latest - any advice is most appreciated!!

A few weeks back I left my car with the mechanic who could not duplicate the problem and basically told me that it would be guess work at this point and he didn't feel right replacing stuff that may not be the issue. Reasonably certain that it is not the VICS screw issue as I never heard any loud engine noises at any point, the symptoms don't all match and my model is an '01 LX, not MP3 (the rattling I heard was the cat shield as I originally suspected).


I did notice a few more symptoms lately, so here's an entire recap of my issue:

CEL flashes, diagnostics as follows:
Random Multiple Misfire
Cat under threshold something something....

Car will run fine, sometimes for days at a time, and then suddenly a hesitation will occur - no jerking, just a sudden loss of power. Stepping on accelorator does pretty much nothing. Car begins to slowly lose speed. Throwing it back a gear (I have a 5 spd) and punching the gas hard usually kicks the engine back to life. On at least one occasion, a substantial cloud (fuel vapor?) was emitted from the tailpipe when I did this.

A couple of times the car was parked downhill and the engine was extremely rough starting and to get going - it felt like I was nursing a stubborn carburator from the old days! A few times the engine has bordered on dying when coming to a stop and again nursing the gas gets it going. A few other times I was parked on a slight uphill grade and the car started to "chug" after idling fine for a few minutes. In general, grades seem to greatly increase the chance of misfire, whether parked or moving.

Car often feels slightly underpowered when driving. Also, when I let off on the gas, it seems to slow down a lot faster than I remember it doing before this problem.

Gas consumption has increased - I'm squeezing little more than 300 miles per tank vs. getting close to 400 before

Weather conditions appear to have no bearing on the problem.

Mechanic insists it isn't the EGR valve as codes don't indicate this and he doesn't think these symptoms match a coilpack issue. I questioned whether a clogged fuel filter could be an issue, but he said he never experienced such a thing on this model (esp. with the lower mileage) and again didn't want to touch stuff because of pure guess work. I appreciate his honesty, but on the other hand I can't keep driving an unreliable car.....


Things done so far:
Fuel pressure test was fine
New spark plugs
New air filter
Exhaust system inspected visually by mechanic
Computer troubleshooted

[solid_snake]

According to the workshop manual, a multiple cylinder misfire is possibly caused by problems on:

Ignition system
Fuel injectors
Fuel pressure
Evaporative emission system
Base engine
Crankshaft pulse wheel
CKP sensor (crankshaft position)
Low fuel or running out of fuel
CMP sensor (Camshaft Position)
Stuck open EGR valve

[Diehonda]

Sounds like the other misfire problem me and a couple other guys have had in another thread. So you have the random mifire and Warmup catalyst under theehold codes. Try switching your coil pacs to see if the misfires move to other cylinders. If so replace that coil pac. I bought mine at Rockauto for cheap but I hear they are back ordered. Also replace the precat O2 sensor. I bought a universal. Also clean your EGR valvle, even if the mechanic says that it isn't related, you have multiple problem and this will help at least part of your idle problem. Ultimately you could disconnect the pipe that goes to your second cat. If there is ash or residue buildup it is from the first cat which is the one throwing th code. Then you have two options. Get a new cat or get some headers that remove that cat.

Idle - EGR and Precat O2 sensor sends the wrong signal.
Misfire - Coils, if plugs have already been replaced.(check the gap too)
Cat under threshold - O2 sensor or/and cat

Hope that helps (cheers)

[rtrussel]

Thanks Diehonda and solid_snake for your responses. On top of everything else, I just noticed that I've blown a rear wheel bearing - only a little over 60k miles on the car and it seems like it's pooched!! I'll get the bearing fixed and ask the mechanic how much to service or replace the egr valve - I've had a gut feeling about this all along.... Checking for a dead cat and/or O2 sensor replacement may be the next step. I'm unconvinced it's a coilpack at this point, based on the symptoms (ie. I don't think bad coilpacks give a "smooth" temporary loss of power, continuous loss of just some power or are affected by grades).

I'll let you know how this all turns out....

[MazdaGecko]

Yup its a really common problem..... will probably be the coil pack!
There is more and more of those random misfire problem... i assume its related to protege's getting older.....

There was like 2-3 thread about a same problem here in Quebec on another forum about it in 2 week and another one here on MSprotege.com.

Look at your coil pack because if one is defective, it might create misfire in that cylinder and affect the cylinder which the plug is connected to it

[rtrussel]

Me again....

Surprise, surprise, the cat blew out of the car, so now I've got some major repair bills with still no answer to the cause. I'm really stuck with this POS and I can't afford to guess and hope my way to things that may not even fix it. I suppose the logical thing would be change the cat and O2 sensor. If that doesn't fix original problem, change coilpacks. If no dice, EGR valve. If still no luck, god only knows.

My other alternative is to sell it for a cut price to someone else willing to gamble. I'm seriously considering doing this and getting an older Ford Escort that is more reliable.

[Diehonda]

what is the damage and your specific symptoms before the damage?
Just relax, there is always a way. Trust me I had a VW. (poke) I about rebuilt it before I sold it and it was a 2000.

[rtrussel]

Hi Diehonda,

The symptoms are the same as described in the Jan. 9 email in this thread - on top of this, I notice that if the loss of power starts and I put the clutch in until the engine nearly stalls, it runs ok again after giving it gas.

Mechanic checked the codes again and found the following:
P0300 - random misfire
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
P0421 - dead cat

According to these codes and the symptoms, he thinks the following is true:

Not an EGR valve issue
Not a coilpack issue (ie. random misfire has happened several times, vs. specific cylinder misfires)
Not a vacuum leak issue

May be a sensor issue
May be a computer problem or related electrical issue

He replaced a front pipe but not the cat to save me some cash, so I'm only a couple hundred bucks out at this point.

This uncertainty is killing me, but you're right, I need to relax a little....

[Diehonda]

Only reason I say relax is because like any car problem, it doesn't make a difference how much you stress about it, the problem still exists. I have been there and it blows.

Mechanic checked the codes again and found the following:
P0300 - random misfire
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
P0421 - dead cat

P0300 and P0302 are most likely related as one coil pack is shot as the other one is on its way out. I replaced both of mine(had the same codes) and went ahead and checked the gap and cleanliness of the plugs. This is the bogging that you are experiencing while driving. The reason why the coil packs are the problem is because these buggers are picky and will work fine for a day, part of a day, or a week and then not work worth a squat.

P0421 - dead cat could be the O2 sensor under your cat as they usually go out before the cat but throw the same codes.

Do a search either here or google on how to test the O2 sensor with a voltmeter. If the signal is weak replace the sensor. Get a universal, it is cheaper. Autozone had one for about $45.

If P0421 is the cat after testing the O2 sensor and it being OK, then you have to consider if just want to get an aftermarket header and a nonfouler. This is the route I went as the header range between $200 and $500. Where as a new cat at a great deal is $500.

Do you have emissions testing where you are located?

Never hurt to clean, not replace, the EGR valve. The how to here is straight forward and a snap to do.

[CivicKilla]

Yo the kid DiS sounds like he's on the right track. You and i have the same car... and only about six months ago i had a similar problem. My loud clicking sound turned out to be a huge problem. Long Story short... i blew a Valve, a bearing fell into the piston chamber, and the end result was an engine in shambles. get it checked immediately!

[green77]

I have a 2001 Mazda Protege ES 2.0 with same issues. Engine light was on for a few months with no problems noticed. Then CEL would occasionaly flash, but with no performance issue. Then when driving, I would loose RPM's and car would have no zoom-zoom to climb hills. I would have to keep it in 2nd just to get up the hill to my house. Idle would be all over the place, starting at 1500 RPM when first started for the day and under 100 RPM when it CEL began to flash. Took my protege in to have it checked. Computer showed random misfire and O2 sensor issue. I was told that the car was going into "Safe Mode" so the engine wouldn't be damaged. I Had spark plugs replaced but it did not resolve issue. The more I drove it, the more it had problems running smooth. Finally had coils replaced with used ones from local junk yard (shop couldn't find any new after market coils anywhere and new ones from mazda were over $100 apiece). Computer was reset and it seemed problem was fixed. Idle went back to around 700 RPM and car ran smooth. Haven't had "Safe Mode" happen again but CEL went back on.

[Diehonda]

Finally had coils replaced with used ones from local junk yard (shop couldn't find any new after market coils anywhere and new ones from mazda were over $100 apiece).


Next time go to Rockauto.com You will be surprised how much cheaper they are. It has also been stated that if you give the dealership the exact p/n that the coils are cheaper, they just look them up incorrectly on the expensive ones.

Welcome to the site, come back now ya here(headbang)

[irishadam]

Hello All,

this is an old thread but I hope somebody out there is still keeping an eye on it. I have a Protege 2001 LS - with the 2 litre automatic. There are about 50 K on it. About six months ago I started having the symptoms described above, loss of power, drop in revs, mostly on the freeway but also sometimes turning at traffic lights almost stalled twice. I have brought into my mechanic multiple times, he started by replacing the EGR valve, but the problems persist. The Check engine light with come on, flash and then I'll get two or three Chugs in about two weeks. The last time I brought it to the dealership they had it for 5 days, put 600 miles on it but couldn't replicate the problem.

The error code is random misfire - I'm dealing with a new mechanic my dealership in Glendale sucks !

What would you suggest trying next - Changing the coils ?

Thanks a million as always for you're help.

[Diehonda]

Hello All,

this is an old thread but I hope somebody out there is still keeping an eye on it. I have a Protege 2001 LS - with the 2 litre automatic. There are about 50 K on it. About six months ago I started having the symptoms described above, loss of power, drop in revs, mostly on the freeway but also sometimes turning at traffic lights almost stalled twice. I have brought into my mechanic multiple times, he started by replacing the EGR valve, but the problems persist. The Check engine light with come on, flash and then I'll get two or three Chugs in about two weeks. The last time I brought it to the dealership they had it for 5 days, put 600 miles on it but couldn't replicate the problem.

The error code is random misfire - I'm dealing with a new mechanic my dealership in Glendale sucks !

What would you suggest trying next - Changing the coils ?

Thanks a million as always for you're help.


Replace both ignition coils. If it is a bit more pricey then you want then price a 1.8 ignition coil from a Miata or 99 Protege. There is a thread on her about the 2.0 to 1.8 conversion.


Welcome and good luck. The 2.0 ignition coils go on back order pretty often. Check the for sale section on this site for member part outs or hit up one of our vendors.

[irishadam]

Thank you so much for the help,

I was starting to get really frustrated with my zoom zoom rocket, I love driving this car - although I should really have gotten the manual - and am such a huge mazda fan, having trouble has been a very traumatic for me, especially living in LA where breaking down on the freeway can literally be a matter of life and death -I'll get right on it and update with the any progress

Thanks again

[Diehonda]

No problem. This site is a wealth of information for a do-it-yourselfer.

[rpenfi77]

Wow, reading this thread, seems like a fairly common problem. I've got 77k miles, and recently car started hesitating while driving, felt like misfiring. If I put it in neutral, car will drop in RPM's and almost die, fluttering the gas will eventually bring back the proper idle, and reving the car will usually fix the problem, temporarily. However, lately this is happening more often, like every 10 minutes of driving. and today, my CE light came on. Went to autozone and the code came back as P0401, EGR System Insufficient Flow Detected. I think this may be a symptom, not the root cause though.

I see alot of talk about replacing the "coil packs". On rockauto they sell an "ignition coil". Are these the same thing? (dunno)

[Diehonda]

Wow, reading this thread, seems like a fairly common problem. I've got 77k miles, and recently car started hesitating while driving, felt like misfiring. If I put it in neutral, car will drop in RPM's and almost die, fluttering the gas will eventually bring back the proper idle, and reving the car will usually fix the problem, temporarily. However, lately this is happening more often, like every 10 minutes of driving. and today, my CE light came on. Went to autozone and the code came back as P0401, EGR System Insufficient Flow Detected. I think this may be a symptom, not the root cause though.

I see alot of talk about replacing the "coil packs". On rockauto they sell an "ignition coil". Are these the same thing? (dunno)

Check this thread out:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788

Clean your EGR valve, oil the spring, and reinstall. The thread has more detailed instructions.

ALso, you have two ignition coils on your valve cover. You will either get a misfire code or a multiple cylinder misfire code. At that time you will either need to replace one or both ignition coils or change to the 1.8l igntion coil from a Miata or 2000 Protege.


Welcome!

[rpenfi77]

Thanks very much for the help!! Weather permitting, I'll give this a go on Saturday.

[Dave_Etude]

[QUOTE=green77;2456366]I have a 2001 Mazda Etude 160ie (here in South Africa the Protege/Familia is sold as the Etude) with same issues. The car would drive like a dream one moment but the next moment loose power to the extent that I have to gear down to 2nd gear. I would loose RPM's and car would have no zoom-zoom to drive any faster than 60 km/h and sound like a tractor. I would have to keep it in 2nd just to get up the hill to my house. Idle would be all over the place, starting at 1500 RPM when first started for the day and under 100 RPM while idling (if you can call it that). Took my Etude/protege in to have it checked. The second time I took it back they replaced spark plugs but it did not resolve issue. I am now getting somewhat frustrated with the dealer for not getting the problem resolved. I will be taking the vehicle back for the third time tomorrow morning. Please help me urgently!

[Diehonda]

Is there a check engine light on? Codes ran to retrieve the reason for the light being on?

Do that first, then if it comes back as a misfire code replace the ignition coils.

[kevsnova]

Hi Diehonda,

The symptoms are the same as described in the Jan. 9 email in this thread - on top of this, I notice that if the loss of power starts and I put the clutch in until the engine nearly stalls, it runs ok again after giving it gas.

Mechanic checked the codes again and found the following:
P0300 - random misfire
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
P0421 - dead cat

According to these codes and the symptoms, he thinks the following is true:

Not an EGR valve issue
Not a coilpack issue (ie. random misfire has happened several times, vs. specific cylinder misfires)
Not a vacuum leak issue

May be a sensor issue
May be a computer problem or related electrical issue

He replaced a front pipe but not the cat to save me some cash, so I'm only a couple hundred bucks out at this point.

This uncertainty is killing me, but you're right, I need to relax a little....
EGR valve is sticking causing a large vacuum leak leaning out the mixture.
the electronics of the egr work fine but the mechanical plunger sticks Remove throttle body and 4 screws at the egr this will seperate the electonics from the EGR.
Spray penetrating fluid into the bottom hole of the throttle (this you can see once the throttle body is removed(2 bolts 2 nuts)
Work the plunger (you can see the penetrating fluid move up and down the hole ) until the plunger is free and re-install throttle body.
I have found 3 cars within the last 4 months with the same problem.

Kevsnova, Midas Baseline rd. Ottawa

[Diehonda]

EGR valve is sticking causing a large vacuum leak leaning out the mixture.
the electronics of the egr work fine but the mechanical plunger sticks Remove throttle body and 4 screws at the egr this will seperate the electonics from the EGR.
Spray penetrating fluid into the bottom hole of the throttle (this you can see once the throttle body is removed(2 bolts 2 nuts)
Work the plunger (you can see the penetrating fluid move up and down the hole ) until the plunger is free and re-install throttle body.
I have found 3 cars within the last 4 months with the same problem.

Kevsnova, Midas Baseline rd. Ottawa


http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788

[VIV]

Hi all,
I am new to the forum, but with the old and common problems : P0300 +
P0421 and experiencing the same symptoms.

Just to let you know guys that I was able to replace EGR vlv at Mazda stealership (Canada) under the recall , i.e. for free. So make sure that you get one as well before you go somewhere else.
Mazda ES 2.0 (FS)-2002

It did not fix the problem though. (blarf)

[Diehonda]

Hi all,
I am new to the forum, but with the old and common problems : P0300 +
P0421 and experiencing the same symptoms.


P0300 - Ignition coils.

P0421 - Cat or the aftercat O2 sensor.

Welcome to the site!

[VIV]

Thanks,
I have INNOVA 3130. Went to the dealer to buy an EGR vlv gasket (wanted to take EGR vlv out for inspection/cleaning), ended with a new valve. He-he.
Coil packs/wires will be the next step.

[blueamcat]

Coil pack solved my misfire problem! Its fun to drive again.

[irishadam]

I wanted to give props to those who helped me out with my misfire problems. I changed the 2L coils out about a month ago and I'm back Zooming away like the good olde days, I also go it done really cheap by a local mechanic, I was going to the dealership but those days are gone, they changed my EGR valve that didn't help at all.

Thanks again - after 4 months of dealing with the issue and getting one or two shudders merging on the LA freeways I was seriously considering changing my car - I'm so happy to have my car-confidence back.

[cards-gotta-go]

I'm having this problem too... my engine would start, and drop RPM almost immediately... give it a shot of gas and run fine. Monday: no start at all!

2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0

Diagnosis: Misifire on cylinders 3 and 4.

Work done:
Major tune up including air filter, PCV valve, new spark plugs and wires, decarbonization of air intake system, fuel injection system flush, flush combustion chamber and exhaust sysytem.

Drove exactly 7 miles (11km) before the light came on.
Back at the shop today...

Should I be looking at EGR? Coil? Both?
Or should I just point them here? :)

HELP Please!

[Diehonda]

Replace both ignition coils. Sorry you spen over $700 for it not to be fixed. Your gas mileage will thank you though.

[cards-gotta-go]

Replace both ignition coils. Sorry you spen over $700 for it not to be fixed. Your gas mileage will thank you though.

Well,

Had the EGR valve replaced - after I told them to look at it, they told me it was shot.

This morning: CEL is back on! (argh)(argh)(argh)(bang)

[Diehonda]

Ignition coils, and the EGR can be cleaned if the issue is a gunked up spring. Too late for that now.


Get new ignition coils. Sorry you have spent that much to still have a CEL.

[Frez]

Wow, I'm glad I found this thread.

My daughter has a 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 automatic with 111,000 miles on it. Today her check engine light came on and her idle is rough and car seems to start harder than normal sometimes. No knocking and car runs fine at highway speeds. Stopped in to Autozone today and computer kicked back a code of P-0300. He told me it was a misfire code. So I picked up a bottle of lucas injection cleaner and 4 new NGK spark plugs. Replaced the plugs and dumped the cleaner into gas tank. Engine light is still on and car is still semi rough at idle.

From viewing this thread is it a coil pack that is causing the misfire?

I will check back and really do appreciate any replies to help me out with my daughters car. I'd like to fix this thing myself with the knowledge and help of this forum.

Thanks for taking the time!


Frez

[Frez]

For my 2nd post.............


I'm going to attempt to clean the EGR valve sometime today. Just read about 19 pages on the "how to".

[Frez]

and for my 3rd post...........

I cleaned EGR valve and cleaned MAF sensor.............cars rough idle is GONE!

Thanks so much for all the information.

If you don't mind, I'll be hanging around for a little bit.

Thanks

[cards-gotta-go]

Lucky for you...

Work done:
Wednesday: Major tune up including air filter, PCV valve, new spark plugs and wires, decarbonization of air intake system, fuel injection system flush, flush combustion chamber and exhaust sysytem.
Friday: EGR valve replacement
Satruday: Ignition Coils replaced.

Still not fixed. ARGH! (argh)

[Frez]

Lucky for you...

Work done:
Wednesday: Major tune up including air filter, PCV valve, new spark plugs and wires, decarbonization of air intake system, fuel injection system flush, flush combustion chamber and exhaust sysytem.
Friday: EGR valve replacement
Satruday: Ignition Coils replaced.

Still not fixed. ARGH! (argh)


I would try your fuel pump or the fuel pump sock.

[cards-gotta-go]

Well...

... the car has to be towed.... for the second time. Won't start this morning.

and the shop still has no f-ing clue what the problem is...

(argh)

[cards-gotta-go]

2 more days have gone by... and they STILL have no clue...

[blueamcat]

I hope it gets fixed, sorry to hear that. :(

[cards-gotta-go]

The next update:

Apparently I was getting 80psi of fuel pressure... they put a regulator in and now it sounds lilke a pack of raccoons has invaded my fuel tank.

Unbelievable.

[freeraid]

Hello guys!
The similar problem has appeared recently. (I have American Protege FS-DE 2002. I from Russia)
MIL did not appear all over again. When I connect the scanner, i have received P0300 it in pending codes. By the contents of a branch in the American services simply plant you on money and do not solve a problem (by the way at us the same). But I have never met here mentions of CMP and CKP sensors. By service to a manual on Protege by the importance (besides coils and wires) they take the second place. At first I shall replace coils. Then I shall change CKP - sensor (Excuse for curve English :) )

[supa saiyan pr5]

Well I'm having the same problem for couple months now...replaced coil pcks, wires, spark plugs, pcv valve now im down to one code p-0300 but it's funny that when my tps sensor is unplug it runs great...just changed out the tps also...any suggestions...cant pass emissions at all...mechanic changed the cam positon sensor as well along with the ecu from my other protege....

[cards-gotta-go]

So, this is day 24 since the first time it would not start.
Been towed 3 times.
Into this repair shop 8-9 times. I've literally lost track.

I'm taking it to my Mazda dealer in the morning... I can't take this crap anymore. (argh)

[cards-gotta-go]

So as it turns out...

My head gasket is leaking! (argh)

Another $1,500... (argh)

[freeraid]

I have solved a problem by cleaning IAC. :) But I shall change CMP CKP Sensors

[Mini Rocket]

Hi !

I had the same problem on my GF's car, a Mazda Protege 2002 LX with 2.0L engine (canadian).

Codes P0300 & P0421. Also, the car was sometimes having trouble to keep idle and also sputtering, but it was not always. Also sometimes at high speed, the car would just not accelerate even at WOT.

I changed the spark plugs because they where due.

And also I bought 2 coil pack from the scrap yard and changed tem., No more Code P0300 random misfire and I unplug the 1st O2 sensor, and the code changed, repluged it and the P0421 came back. But the car goes well.

I will change the Upper O2 sensor and I'm pretty sure it will fix the problem. I'll keep you informed on further answers.

Thanks to this forum, it helped a lot !

[fattyl]

Hey guys,

I'm having similar issues with my Mazda Protege ES 2003 (Canadian)

My CEL blinks and then stays solid, the code shows P0300. Here are the symptoms.

I drive along the highway, and I keep a steady 3000 RPM. All of a sudden, I start losing engine power and cannot accelerate and my RPM keeps dipping. Once I idle at a traffic light or at a traffic jam, the car starts shaking as if it was about the stall and then kicks back and goes back to normal.

Here what I've done to my car already.

- Replaced EGR Valve (fixed my rough idle issue that's common on most proteges)
- Basic tune-up, changed all the wiring, spark plugs

Now, I'm browsed online and trying to get a feel of what most people did and what they had their mechanic do. What should I ask my mechanic to check next? When he took my car for a week, he couldn't get the problem to happen.

Online it says to try:

PCV Valve, check fuel injectors, fuel pressure test.

This seems to be a known issue with Protege's so any ideas on what I should do next?

[the_jaf]

Just got the P0300 code today. Noticed rough idling with almost stalling. Seems fine acceleration wise. I see that coils are the way to go to fix this problem? Are they expensive? Any other help would be great thanks.

[the_jaf]

Hmm just took the car on the highway had no idle problems or check engine light.

[mach1219]

my car is having this issue as well.

I am not getting a MIL, i just noticed it when put a timing light on the wires. I swapped coils packs and the problem stayed with the n0. 2/3 cyl pack. I at first thought the problem followed the pack,a dn changed it with one from auto zone, but it did the same thing. ive began troubleshootign the signal from the ecm, as ive tried the plugs/wires and nothign will make this problem go away.

help!

[blueamcat]

Coil pack semi fixed the problem for 4k miles. Def need a fuel injector. #3. Anyone have one I could pick up for cheap? PM me please! Thanks.

[mach1219]

since im not gettign MIL im hesitant to think i have a bad injector. I did notice that 2 of my injectors were purple and 2 green. what does that mean?

[blueamcat]

They're supposed to be that way. I dunno what it means tho. I need a new one. :-/

[Mini Rocket]

It's been 2 weeks, after I changed The Cat and everything is perfect.

So, for me, changing the coilpacks and the 1st cat removed both my codes: P0300 and P0421.

[Diehonda]

So as it turns out...

My head gasket is leaking! (argh)

Another $1,500... (argh)

Is it fixed?

Coil pack semi fixed the problem for 4k miles. Def need a fuel injector. #3. Anyone have one I could pick up for cheap? PM me please! Thanks.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1387447,parttype,6224

[slavrenz]

Coil packs are $18 each at Autozone. I'm still amazed at how cheap they are (cool)

[mach1219]

Coil packs are $18 each at Autozone. I'm still amazed at how cheap they are (cool)

I just bought one (didnt do me any good btw) from autozone and it was $40.

dont know where you get your information. autozone website says $40 as well

[slavrenz]

I just bought one (didnt do me any good btw) from autozone and it was $40.

dont know where you get your information. autozone website says $40 as well

They raised their prices. I bought one 6 months back in Cedar Rapids, IA and it was $18 before tax. Sorry for the misinformation.

[s0n1cm0nk3y]

not sure if this was fixed,but i had the exact same issue a couple of days ago. Magstar wires are shit and fell apart in my cylinders. Check your wires. Coil packs could be the issue, but then again remember with our distributerless systems 1 and 4 fire together and 2 and 3 fire together, at least i think those are the correct numbers.

[mach1219]

magstar? are those those cheap colored ones for like $15? Please tell me you didnt buy those.

i gave up on mine, im just going to drive it like is until i get MIL or it starts to run bad.

[ENTENSE]

Im getting the same code today P0300, Bought 2 new coil packs 39.00 each and a wire set also 39.00 and 4 new plugs all at auto zone. Also I am going to put in some injector cleaner in the gas tank. Total was about 140 bucks.



I had the same problem this morning, rough idle and funny smell, (but I have no Cats on the car). Car runs fine. Its just when I sit a light or idle in park it will do this. After market bosal exhaust and obx headers ( I have had these on the car for 6yrs now), I have 43,000 miles on my 2002 protege 5 its an auto. I also had my EGR valve replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, cost 400 bucks. (come to find out I could have just cleaned it)


Well I will keep you updated later today. After I reset the lights.

[ENTENSE]

Im getting the same code today P0300, Bought 2 new coil packs 39.00 each and a wire set also 39.00 and 4 new plugs all at auto zone. Also I am going to put in some injector cleaner in the gas tank. Total was about 140 bucks.



I had the same problem this morning, rough idle and funny smell, (but I have no Cats on the car). Car runs fine. Its just when I sit a light or idle in park it will do this. After market bosal exhaust and obx headers ( I have had these on the car for 6yrs now), I have 43,000 miles on my 2002 protege 5 its an auto. I also had my EGR valve replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, cost 400 bucks. (come to find out I could have just cleaned it)


Well I will keep you updated later today. After I reset the lights.

Just finished- everything is running smooth (flash)

[Diehonda]

I came to this thread for info and found that I have posted a bunch of times. Now it is your turn, help me.


Check out this mess:

Ignition coil replaced (second 1.8 coil after replacing those crappy 2.0 coils three times)
Spark plugs cleaned and then replaced with long reach plugs
Seafoamed the tank and intake system
New air filter
Cleaned EGR valve
Replaced the fuel pump and filter(screen)
Wires are about a year old.No hesitation until I hit half a tank and then Misfire Cylinder One. Plus it hesitates on hills and curves. If I fill up the tank the problem goes away.

A friend owns a shop and stated that the injector doesn't know how much fuel I have so if it was bad I would have issues from get go. I say this because I thought about swapping the injector from cyl one to two.

It has over 180K miles so I always smell a hint of oil when I park. When I have had the hesitation is smells a lot stronger, to the point that you want to pop the hood and expect a mess everywhere. No leaks other than my oil pressure sending unit that leaks a little but that can't be the issue as I am holding solid pressure.

Any suggestions?

[slavrenz]

Maybe your fuel pump is going bad. 180k seems like a reasonable life for one of these.

[Crazee D]

I am also having a recurring P0300.
I have head work, twiggy cams, and 1.8 coils.

We have checked plugs and wires.
Next we're going to see if the cylinder code changes if we move around the coil packs.
My mechanic sez its not the injectors, that the cylinder doesn't know if its got fuel. The code should be specific to the ignition system.
We're also re-checking the 1.8 coils connections.

I came to this thread for info and found that I have posted a bunch of times. Now it is your turn, help me.


Check out this mess:

Ignition coil replaced (second 1.8 coil after replacing those crappy 2.0 coils three times)
Spark plugs cleaned and then replaced with long reach plugs
Seafoamed the tank and intake system
New air filter
Cleaned EGR valve
Replaced the fuel pump and filter(screen)
Wires are about a year old.No hesitation until I hit half a tank and then Misfire Cylinder One. Plus it hesitates on hills and curves. If I fill up the tank the problem goes away.

A friend owns a shop and stated that the injector doesn't know how much fuel I have so if it was bad I would have issues from get go. I say this because I thought about swapping the injector from cyl one to two.

[blueamcat]

I'm finally about to replace #3 injector this weekend. We'll see if that clears up my misfire problem. I hope so! I actually got a set of 4 used from a member here for cheap. Awesome deal. :D

[mach1219]

man, this is crazy. Why do i not get a code at all, but accordign to my timing light, have many and prolonged misfires, yet the car seems to run fine?

[Diehonda]

I'm finally about to replace #3 injector this weekend. We'll see if that clears up my misfire problem. I hope so! I actually got a set of 4 used from a member here for cheap. Awesome deal. :D


Replace #3 and tell me if that fixes it. If so sell me a green one for cylinder 1.(naughty)

[blueamcat]

Aight will do.

[Diehonda]

Maybe your fuel pump is going bad. 180k seems like a reasonable life for one of these.


Pump and filter are new, maybe 400 miles on them.

I am thinking either:

#1 injector
fuel gauge sending unit(the stopper on the fuel pump) because it shows few issues until it gets at or below half a tank
fuel pressure regulator because the acceleration isn't up to par throughout the power band
Or drive it off of a cliff

[blueamcat]

Don't drive it off a cliff! Well, I guess if you have to you have to. Hope for the best for now though. :)

[Crazee D]

i should clarify, P0300 is a RANDOM misfire event and I am specifically getting a P0303 indicating cylinder #3.

Code did not change when we switched coil packs around.

[Diehonda]

i should clarify, P0300 is a RANDOM misfire event and I am specifically getting a P0303 indicating cylinder #3.

Code did not change when we switched coil packs around.


Swap injectors and see if it changes. That is where I am at with this issue. I have P0301. Argh!!

[blueamcat]

Crazee D, same here man. 303 code all the time. Though today nothing so far. yay! Getting #3 changed tomorrow!

[mach1219]

I dont geven get a mIL on mine, but i know its misfiring. has anyone else paced the inductive pickup lead of a timing light on their plug wires to check for a misfire that way? granted, it only works on cyl 1 and 3, but i cant get mine to fire normally (cyl 3). I think it must be a fault in the ECM

[808MP5]

fixed my P0300 finally after almost a year... turned out to be the timing

[WIMSPWI]

i believe it starts with it being a protege....thats my two cents

[Crazee D]

Truer words have never been spoken

[Diehonda]

Swapped the injectors, replaced the o rings on each of them, and then had a rough idles when I started it up. Checked everything, no leaks, and everything was plugged in.

Would the air in the dampner cause it to have a rough idle?

I pulled the EGR again and cleaned and oiled it. It moves freely.

Dang it!

Otherwise it drives fine.

Plus I was working out in the garage with the heater on and it was 37 degrees. It was 5 degrees outside. 37 never felt so good.

[blueamcat]

So far, after replacing #3 on Sat, I have had the CEL come on but only once.
It ran extremely smooth for the test drive that night.

Running smooth today so far, but I'm going to ride it out to see if it lasts.
I do have somewhat of a rough idle as well, but its not really all that bad.
We'll see what happens.

Have yet to check my plug wires, and also the EGR.

[blueamcat]

Also, is there a better way to reset the computer other than the OBDII reader? Just want to make sure it's cleared.

[Diehonda]

I always unplug the negative battery terminal. With other issues it will usually come back on within 150 miles. My car doesn't show any issues until a half a tank. Other than the jacked up idle it has now. It isn't bad while driving but almost dies when I am sitting still. Didn't do that before I swapped injectors.....

[blueamcat]

Strange.

When my tank is 1/2 full or less, that's usually when I have issues.
Maybe I'll try to keep it above that point for fuel for a while and see if that helps any.

[Diehonda]

It helped mine. To the point that I had no issues. Got tired of getting gas every other day though.


I am going to pull my IAC tonight and see if needs to be cleaned.

[Diehonda]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4267533&posted=1#post4267533

Two threads, same issues.

[Diehonda]

It helped mine. To the point that I had no issues. Got tired of getting gas every other day though.


I am going to pull my IAC tonight and see if needs to be cleaned.


Lets go with a hell no on the IAC. Four phillips holding it in. The manual shows one bolt..... Those blasted screws are in there like swimwear. I really didn't feel like stripping anymore screws so I pulled the intake and cleaned the TB. Pulled the plugs and cleaned the soot off. Checked the gap and reinstalled.

Got gas this morning and put some injector cleaner in. When I got to work it idled great and didn't bog down. Now to see about the half tank issue. Will most likely put on some mileage this week with the holidays and the brother in laws loving to hit some country roads while they are in town.

Someone in another thread talked about spraying air into the feed line of the fuel pump to clean out buildup. I presume it cleans it from the nonserviceable high pressure filter.
Here is the post. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4266842&postcount=55

[blueamcat]

Alright, well that gives me a few more options.

I may just have to try cleaning out that fuel filter as well.
Haven't tried switching the injectors, or any cleaner, but after I replaced the #3 last Sat, after that initial CEL, it hasn't come on again yet.

Will wait to see what happens after my trip to MO this next Sunday.

[blueamcat]

Light came on again this morning on my way in to work. Just as I enter Minneapolis while at the stop light. lol

[Diehonda]

Light came on again this morning on my way in to work. Just as I enter Minneapolis while at the stop light. lol


What are your symptoms?

Try the free stuff. Clean the TB, fuel filter, EGR, clean the plugs and check the gap, clean the MAF.

I have to wait for my gas to drop to a half a tank and see if the code comes back. The injectors are swpapped. Hopefully the code will change to P0302

[blueamcat]

Well, I was actually just idling at the light, and it went on.
The idle has been pretty inconsistent lately though. Roughly between 1000 and 200 rpm at a stop.

Sometimes I think it it's going to just die altogether.
It is a 5speed tranny.

I was thinking I'd clean out a few things for sure. That may just be my problem. And yea, if swapping the injector fixes/changes the code for you, let me know and I'll get you a new one.

[Diehonda]

Sounds good. Clean the EGR and oil the spring. That should help a lot of the idle issues. Cleaning the TB helped mine greatly.

[blueamcat]

Cool, will do. I'll just follow the how-to on this site for that EGR cleaning.

By the way, TB...wazzat?

[Diehonda]

Throttle body.

Remove your intake and unhook your battery. Pull the throttle cable back so the throttle body plate will open. You can spray throttle body cleaner and use a toothbrush or you can dip the brush in gasoline to clean it. Hook it all back up, it will be difficult to start but it will clean the carbon build up out. Then turn it off and pull the plugs. Whipe them off and hit them up with a wire brush to clean the carbon build up from the TB clean that you just did. Increased gas mileage, improved throttle response, and took care of that idle issue at stop lights.

(2thumbs)

[blueamcat]

Ooh, great! Another thing I must try. Thank you thank you. I feel like a newb but I don't know all the shorthand yet. :p

[cards-gotta-go]

Is it fixed?



http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1387447,parttype,6224

As it turns out, the head gasket was toast and I hade to replace a cylinder head (#4).

Total cost at my dealer $3,004.28. (puke)

[lyndon]

Hi !

I had the same problem on my GF's car, a Mazda Protege 2002 LX with 2.0L engine (canadian).

Codes P0300 & P0421. Also, the car was sometimes having trouble to keep idle and also sputtering, but it was not always. Also sometimes at high speed, the car would just not accelerate even at WOT.

I changed the spark plugs because they where due.

And also I bought 2 coil pack from the scrap yard and changed tem., No more Code P0300 random misfire and I unplug the 1st O2 sensor, and the code changed, repluged it and the P0421 came back. But the car goes well.

I will change the Upper O2 sensor and I'm pretty sure it will fix the problem. I'll keep you informed on further answers.

Thanks to this forum, it helped a lot !


I have the same problem as this gentleman, a mazda 2001 bought in Canada, now in California which gave the same codes, po300 and po421. changed the ox sensors but the light came back only 30 miles after. everything is normal, idle, acceleration, etc, occasionally, very rarely missfired. and normally the light comes without any symptom, just lights up. any ideas???
thansk you..

[blueamcat]

Scheduled a diagnostic test for next Monday! There goes $120 but I should find out what's wrong for sure instead of throwing money away.

[Diehonda]

Scheduled a diagnostic test for next Monday! There goes $120 but I should find out what's wrong for sure instead of throwing money away.


Good luck. Let me know what they say. I can't get it to throw a code after switching the injectors.

[blueamcat]

Really? Hmm, strange...

Well, they found that I need a new intake manifold gasket! So, cheap part, not so easy fix. But its okay, now that I know I'll be able to do something about it! I have friends saying they'll help me already so I'm not worried about getting it done. Just gotta buy the part!

[Diehonda]

That's what they said is causing the hesitation?

Are still having the hesitation after a half a tank?

That is a lot of work to change that gasket. You will need beer, tape to label your hoses, beer, a magnet bowl to hold all of the bolts, and beer.

[blueprotegelx]

subbing...I had random misfire code last couple days before parking my car for the semester. i'm going to try just replacing the coils and plugs and seeing what that does. i will not find out if it worked or not until i start driving over the summer

[blueamcat]

Yea that's what they said. It won't be too much work, I have friends that are asking to help me. And yes, its just running like junk.

[Voltaic]

Hi All,

I have a Mazda 2001 Protege ES 2.0L AUTO (no mods except for K&N air filter) and I started having hesitation and rough idles about a month ago. First time it happened was on highway at about 60kph, I had misfires and some hesitation (P0300 was read). Then started the rough idles at stop light (I had already changed my EGR valve back in 2005).

The CEL eventually went away only to come back a few days later (again, highway speed 70kph). Anyway, you all know how the story goes...

So I bring it to Mazda yesterday and tell them about the P0300s but they still insitented that they needed the connect it to their WDS... I'm like "Fine but it better find the real problem... esp. at 70$".

They call me up telling me I had a P0401 and that I needed to replace the EGR valve (again), but they said it's a new version that should fix the rough idle issue once and for all... I agreed but kept my old valve... (250$ /w laybor). I talked to the mechanic to see if he checked for header gasket leaks and such, he said he did...

Now, this morning at a stop light I get a really bad rough idle (even putting it in neutral and give it some gas didn't fix it...). Unfortunately, the CEL didn't come on.

I'll keep you posted on what I change/do to see if I can fix my problem.

Cheers,

Volt

[blueamcat]

Plan is to change the gasket this Sat up at my friend's shop. He also got me a sweet deal on it. I'll post an update!

[slavrenz]

Hi All,

I have a Mazda 2001 Protege ES 2.0L AUTO (no mods except for K&N air filter) and I started having hesitation and rough idles about a month ago. First time it happened was on highway at about 60kph, I had misfires and some hesitation (P0300 was read). Then started the rough idles at stop light (I had already changed my EGR valve back in 2005).

The CEL eventually went away only to come back a few days later (again, highway speed 70kph). Anyway, you all know how the story goes...

So I bring it to Mazda yesterday and tell them about the P0300s but they still insitented that they needed the connect it to their WDS... I'm like "Fine but it better find the real problem... esp. at 70$".

They call me up telling me I had a P0401 and that I needed to replace the EGR valve (again), but they said it's a new version that should fix the rough idle issue once and for all... I agreed but kept my old valve... (250$ /w laybor). I talked to the mechanic to see if he checked for header gasket leaks and such, he said he did...

Now, this morning at a stop light I get a really bad rough idle (even putting it in neutral and give it some gas didn't fix it...). Unfortunately, the CEL didn't come on.

I'll keep you posted on what I change/do to see if I can fix my problem.

Cheers,

Volt

You should be taking that back to the dealer and telling them to fix it at no cost. If you took it in and told them that you wanted the rough idle fixed, and they said that they did fix it, then they are obligated by law to perform the work on the car that will correct the issue. The law may vary slightly from state to state, but they basically owe you a fix for your car, either at no charge or a severely reduced one.

[Voltaic]

You should be taking that back to the dealer and telling them to fix it at no cost. If you took it in and told them that you wanted the rough idle fixed, and they said that they did fix it, then they are obligated by law to perform the work on the car that will correct the issue. The law may vary slightly from state to state, but they basically owe you a fix for your car, either at no charge or a severely reduced one.

I don't know if a DTC code is stored even though the CEL was not lit... I'll hook up my OBD2/ScanXL reader tonight and check if something got recorded. Going to the dealer with a code would be a lot more convincing...

I've been reading a bit about this Seafoam stuff, I might be tempted to give that a try... I wonder if it still works bellow 0'F (Montreal Winter).

Cheers,

Volt

[Voltaic]

Light came on yesterday... It's another P0300...

[blueamcat]

Got the gasket all changed out. Car definitely runs better, but gonna drop some seafoam in the tank just to help the idle a bit more.
Will update if anything changes. Hopefully gas mileage will go back up...

[Diehonda]

Got the gasket all changed out. Car definitely runs better, but gonna drop some seafoam in the tank just to help the idle a bit more.
Will update if anything changes. Hopefully gas mileage will go back up...


Did it cure the hesitation after half a tank?

[blueamcat]

It is getting a bit better...so far it's been almost a day and I can tell its a bit different. I'm going to run some through the oil tomorrow because I'll be able to change it Sat morning. The CEL was on but it turned off on its own so we'll see if it gets better or worse. I'm looking on the bright side!

[blueamcat]

Okay, so I haven't been driving the last few days cuz I got sick, fever and all, but I plan on taking her out soon. I just painted the passenger mirror with some flat black and clear coat (looks so much better) so I'm gonna wait till that's done drying till I take her out again for a harder test. CEL wasn't on last time I checked, but we'll see tomorrow. I hope I remember to update...

[blueamcat]

Drove around for a bit today, and it drove just like a dream, idled at 800rpm and everything. Until I got over 50mph. Then it started all over again. I'm gonna give in and get plug wires. lol

[Voltaic]

Bummer... Sorry to hear that.

I brought mine in last night, I told them they can keep it for a week to fully test drive it.

[Diehonda]

Drove around for a bit today, and it drove just like a dream, idled at 800rpm and everything. Until I got over 50mph. Then it started all over again. I'm gonna give in and get plug wires. lol


I changed my plugs and it didn't help. Inspect yours and check the gap before you replace them.

Do you have the factory timing belt and idler?

[blueamcat]

I changed my plugs and it didn't help. Inspect yours and check the gap before you replace them.

Do you have the factory timing belt and idler?

Hmm, good question. I might, but they don't look too bad.
At least the belt doesn't, I don't know where to look for the idler...
But that wouldn't explain the P303 would it?

ps. Plug wires, not the plugs themselves. ;)

[Diehonda]

Hmm, good question. I might, but they don't look too bad.
At least the belt doesn't, I don't know where to look for the idler...
But that wouldn't explain the P303 would it?

ps. Plug wires, not the plugs themselves. ;)


Maybe not, but I have read that the idler can cause hesitiation after half a tank on some Fords. I am schedule to have my timing belt, idler, tensioner, water pump, etc replaced next week. I am going to sump the fuel down to a quarter of a tank to see if I it is fixed. If not, I found a fuel pump assembly at a junk yard to use to swap the assembly part of the pump as it has the high pressure filter in it.

Last time I let the gas get below half a tank and the hesitation started, I pulled over and opened the gas cap to see if it would hiss. It didn't happen, if it did it would have been due to air sucking in due to back pressure in the tank. This would have been caused by a clog in the vent tube. Wish it would have as that would've been an easy fix.

A friend has a thread on alldata about this issue. So far all of the posters advise the same things that I have already checked, replaced, or cleaned.

[Diehonda]

ps. Plug wires, not the plugs themselves. ;)


Plug wires is an inexpensive fix. I would try that and see if it helps.

[blueamcat]

I see. Those parts you're getting replaced can't be too expensive either. Let me know what happens on yours as well, when all is said and done. :) I don't have alot of money to throw at my car right now.

[Diehonda]

Will do.

[Voltaic]

I just got my car back. They changed one of the ignition coil.

Driving back home the car seemed much better... but we'll see after a few days.

The mechanic said that when drove the car in the garage to work on it, the idle started screwing up... he opened the hood and disconnected one of the coil... the car stalled. Started it again and pulled the other, it contined to run rough... I guess that's a good way to test for a bad coil.

[ABigBadZebra]

Hey guys, here comes another!

Decided that I'm going to get rid of my Mini Cooper S and drive the wifes paid off 2000 Protege DX (1.6l Auto, 12x,xxx miles) to prepare for the possible not-so-friendly economic days ahead. She got an 07 tC after the Protege started having problems. She was ready for a new car so I just assumed the worst (tranny) and it's been sitting for about 9 months now.

So today I decided to take it for a spin. I hadn't done so myself. In the past, at idle, it was misfiring. Today, it didn't do so at idle and even around the neighborhood (under 25MPH) it was fine. But nail the gas or try to accelerate past 30MPH or so and it was misfiring like crazy.

I decided to go grab an OBD2 reader (had wanted one for a while) and I pulled P0302 off of it.

Now, this car has had some work in the past. I actually just grabbed the paperwork:

June 2005 - 87,5xx the car was overheating. Thermostat and Head gasket changed, resurfaced head. EGR valve was cleaned out.

November 2006 - 103,351 - Radiator busted. Either caused or was caused by overheating but was caught quickly. Replaced radiator.

September 2007 - 115,177 car had P0420, P0171 codes. Catalytic converter was replaced. Also found a crack in air intake boot. That was replaced as well. Air induction system was cleaned including throttle body, air intake, fuel injectors and intake valves (I'm getting this stuff right off the receipt).

In any case, I was thinking about buying the coil packs and seeing if it would be a quick repair but Autozone now has them for $98. I think I might just take it to my mechanic so they can do the diagnostics. I can do the mechanical stuff but the electronic (ignition) stuff I do not thave the knowledge or tools for. I think it may very well be cheaper to let them spend a couple hours diagnosing and then do the repairs myself.

I'm also afraid that maybe it's a more severe problem, such as a bad cylinder. Since the car has overheated twice I worry about the internals. I don't want to throw a bunch of money in parts only to find that it's something more major.

I will keep you all posted. I may at least clean the EGR valve before taking it in, but I see that many of you have general misfire codes. I need to clear mine and see if it will throw the same code. If it does, it seems that could be a good (coil) or bad (cylinder) sign.

Any additional thoughts, guys? Also, can someone link me to the EGR valve cleaning document?

Thanks!


AND I just realized this is in the 2.0 section. Ooops. Maybe it doesn't matter? Lol

[ABigBadZebra]

Ehh, I know I posted this in the wrong section. I will also post in the 1.6 section. BUT WAIT! There is a lesson to be learned. Start with the cheap stuff. I stopped by autozone after work today. I was thinking about picking up one coil so I could test. They didn't have it in stock so I decided I'd just go home and check the plugs....

http://www.kmunny.com/other/Mazda/IMG_0780.JPG

...And ran back to autozone to by new plugs.

Seems my problem is fixed now. Those old ones were shot. Surprised they were still kickin at all. Gap was .090+ on all of them. I started to bend that last plug back into spec and clean it up but realized I just needed new ones. Installed the new ones, and took it for a 20 min spin with no problems. Prior to this it was acting up right away with an mid-wide open throttle. Did all that, 70+MPH.. not one glitch. I hope I haven't spoken too soon.

In any case, glad I didn't take it to the shop right away :p

[blueamcat]

I hope that works for ya.
I changed my plugs, but the problem came back after 3k miles or so.
Got one of the coil packs changed...was only $18. Was thinking of doing the other coil pack, and new plug wires next.

[Diehonda]

18 dollar coil pack? Where?


Hope those parts get you all squared away. Here is my list so far.

Coil pack - I run the 1.8l coil on mine
Long reach plugs
Wires
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Cleaned MAF, EGR, intake manny, TB, O2 Sensors
Seafoam in gas tank
New CAI and filter
Timing belt, idler, and tensioner - this did help a bit as the tensioner spring was shot.



Literally the only thing left is the high pressure fuel filter, inside the fuel pump assembly.

:(

[slavrenz]

Hey guys, here comes another!

Now, this car has had some work in the past. I actually just grabbed the paperwork:

June 2005 - 87,5xx the car was overheating. Thermostat and Head gasket changed, resurfaced head. EGR valve was cleaned out.

September 2007 - 115,177 car had P0420, P0171 codes. Catalytic converter was replaced. Also found a crack in air intake boot. That was replaced as well. Air induction system was cleaned including throttle body, air intake, fuel injectors and intake valves (I'm getting this stuff right off the receipt)

AND I just realized this is in the 2.0 section. Ooops. Maybe it doesn't matter? Lol

I'm glad your problem is fixed, but if not, you can keep reading. First off, I think your problem in September '07 was more likely an exhaust leak or a bad O2 sensor rather than a bad cat given the codes, but that's history now so I'm not gonna comment on that.

As for your P0302 code, a bad coil probably wouldn't cause a misfire in only 1 cylinder. It could be an intake manifold gasket leak, a bad fuel injector in that cylinder, bad spark plugs, or a bad spark plug wire. The other possibility that is in my service manual I'm only going to mention because you said you had your head gasket replaced.

It says that poor sealing of the head gasket on the cylinder head can cause air leaks and sometimes a loss of compression, causing a misfire. I just think that there is a good opportunity for a connection here between your head gasket replacement and your misfire, so I would definitely have that up at the top of my list.

The EGR "How-To" page is here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788

[blueamcat]

I've also changed my intake manifold gasket.
That's what the dealer came up with when they did a diagnostic test.

[808MP5]

i was missing once in a great while...
put in new coilpacks from rockauto and it feels like a new car again

[carjunkie67]

808MP5... which coil packs did you get from rockauto? Standard Motor Products or Airtex? Not that it makes any difference... I'm just curious. I'm also assuming they are sold individually so you have to order 2?

[blueamcat]

18 dollar coil pack? Where?


I got mine at Autozone, but they may have gone up since then.

[Diehonda]

808MP5... which coil packs did you get from rockauto? Standard Motor Products or Airtex? Not that it makes any difference... I'm just curious. I'm also assuming they are sold individually so you have to order 2?


Either is fine. Be sure to chose the one that doesn't say any kind of business day delay beyond 3 days. That means that it is out of stock.
Use this code: 14406931116418 to get 5% off. It expires 04/12/2009.

You will need two of them.

[carjunkie67]

Either is fine. Be sure to chose the one that doesn't say any kind of business day delay beyond 3 days. That means that it is out of stock.
Use this code: 14406931116418 to get 5% off. It expires 04/12/2009.

You will need two of them.
So does anyone know why the AC Delco coil for the 1.8L is 1/3 to 1/4 the price of the others? That's tempting to order for the conversion but scary since it is so cheap compared to the others.

[slavrenz]

So does anyone know why the AC Delco coil for the 1.8L is 1/3 to 1/4 the price of the others? That's tempting to order for the conversion but scary since it is so cheap compared to the others.

Dang, go for those coils. I tried visiting the ACDelco website, and they had it priced at $160 for me there. I think you just stumbled upon a killer deal.

[Diehonda]

So does anyone know why the AC Delco coil for the 1.8L is 1/3 to 1/4 the price of the others? That's tempting to order for the conversion but scary since it is so cheap compared to the others.


I have had each and couldn't tell a difference. I run the 1.8l coil conversion now and like it much better. The coil is more reliable and doesn't crap out on you in the fall. Seemed mine would work for a coupl years and then the first really cold day they would die.

[mshershey82]

i have a 2001 automatic mazda protege i love my car to death never really had a problem with it until now. i called the dealership to ask them what they thought the problem was they wouldnt answer. so im here now asking for help from you all im a girl and i have no clue what i need to do. my check engine light came on sat and i changed the air filter sun evening in my car the check engine light went off now its back on again. i took my car to advance and they said it was a misfire issue with the ignition that it could be sparks and coil pack and wires that need to be replaced is this correct you think? how many coil packs does a mazda protege take? please help i dont wanna pay a arm and a leg just to fix this car thanks in advance for the advice.

[blueamcat]

i have a 2001 automatic mazda protege i love my car to death never really had a problem with it until now. i called the dealership to ask them what they thought the problem was they wouldnt answer. so im here now asking for help from you all im a girl and i have no clue what i need to do. my check engine light came on sat and i changed the air filter sun evening in my car the check engine light went off now its back on again. i took my car to advance and they said it was a misfire issue with the ignition that it could be sparks and coil pack and wires that need to be replaced is this correct you think? how many coil packs does a mazda protege take? please help i dont wanna pay a arm and a leg just to fix this car thanks in advance for the advice.

It takes 2 coil packs total, and if you do plug wires (which I'm going to buy as soon as I make more money) you need two total. They usually come in packs of 2.

[slavrenz]

i have a 2001 automatic mazda protege i love my car to death never really had a problem with it until now. i called the dealership to ask them what they thought the problem was they wouldnt answer. so im here now asking for help from you all im a girl and i have no clue what i need to do. my check engine light came on sat and i changed the air filter sun evening in my car the check engine light went off now its back on again. i took my car to advance and they said it was a misfire issue with the ignition that it could be sparks and coil pack and wires that need to be replaced is this correct you think? how many coil packs does a mazda protege take? please help i dont wanna pay a arm and a leg just to fix this car thanks in advance for the advice.

Ugh - I hate these huge run-on paragraphs with little to no punctuation. It makes it sound like someone trying to spit out everything without taking a breath.

On a more on-topic subject, blueamcat, there are only two plug wires besides the two ignition coils. Or did you mean those things added together equal four? Basically, for a complete ignition tuneup you need:

- 2 ignition coils
- 2 spark plug wires (one is really long and one is really short)
- 4 spark plugs (go with NGK brand plugs - the best in my opinion)

[01VAES2.0]

My 01 was doing most of what everyone elses was doing. My coils were intermittently failing, replaced them with autozone $26 ones. The bad coils destroyed my pre-cat, so I went with the OBX header non-fouler mod. And its been code free for 5 days and 200+ miles. Thanks for alot of good info in this thread!!

[carjunkie67]

The rain has finally stopped here in the south and I almost have all my parts to do the conversion... waiting for my wires. I cleaned up my valve cover and may paint it while I'm waiting for the wires.

Anyway... I'm going to be doing this conversion in the next few days. I'll try to take pics as I go along. If anybody wants specific pictures (of my engine during the conversion) let me know.

I'm not sure how I'm going to attach the new coil packs. It came with a bracket but I'm not sure if it is the same bracket everyone is talking about. If anyone has specifics on how to attach the coils let me know... if not, I'll figure it out

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. If this fixes my problem (and I'm 99% sure it will) I will be eternally grateful.

Dave

http://static.mazdas247.com/smilies/blackprotege5smiley.gif

[blueamcat]

New plug wires fixed my problem. My car now runs like new again, or as new as I've known it to run. I got it when it was 4 yrs old. ;)

Old wire boot had an arc running all the way up inside it. Very strange.

[gotmazda]

I recently had a misfire on my number 1 plug. It turned out to be the spark plug wire. The boot at the spark plug tip was allowing the spark to leak through the boot. I had the resistance of the plug wire checked and was told that it was a good reading. but there was an ashy color were the leakage was occuring.

I hope this helps.

[elpaisa_69]

i having the same problem also. and this is keeping me from being able to boost with my car.

i am getting both symton's as u and DIS. but my car run's tho.

i get the random misfire's and my car want's to die when i take the cluth out and want to come to a stop. but it pick's it self back up and doesn't die.

also when i start in the morning the idle tend's to bounce up and down alot and then settle it self.

this is what i done so far and had some sort of progress.
1- clean out the egr valve
2- check my o2censor's.
3-swap my ecu cuz the other one i had was fried.
4- i had a falty ground wire.
5- swaped my maf sensor aswell.

well i dont no what to next so if find out what happend let me no bro thx
emilio

i did the same on my 02 mp and found out that it is a faulty electrical fuel injector on the -neg side on cylinder 2 but i still need to find out how to repair this problem. if anybody knows anything any help will be greatly appriciated.

[elpaisa_69]

where did get your headlight eye lids? blueamcat

[Lilios]

Hello everybody!
By reading all this posts i found hope!

I got a Mazda protege 5(323 F sport in europe ,live in europe)
It all started when the check engine symbol poped up,i whent to a mechanic to read the fault codes, i dont remeber exactly what the fault codes where but i remember it said misfire unkown cylindars.The guy told me it was my coilpacks that we needed to change with new ones so we did.
After a few days the check engine poped up again and something worse happened th check engine symbol started flashing and the car lost alot of power i could barely drive it.I drove it to the mechanic and he plugged into the computer and saw the same error message: missfire unkown cylindars.
One coilpack hade melted!!he couldent explain that!we changed the melted one to a new one,problem fixed we thought.After 2 days of driving smae issue but now the other coilpack melted instead!!!We changed that one to changed spark plugs and coilpack cables .After 2 days same thing!!!!the coilpack melted again!!i was going crazy!!!!I changed that one to ,my mechanic dident have a clue what was wrong with the car he said i cant fix it!go to mazda!

I went to mazda sweden(where i live)told them about the problem and they said they couldent fix the problem!!
So what i did was i called mazda europe headquarters in Germany and told them about my problem with the coilpacks melting.
The answer and solution was this:
1.Reground the coilpacks
2.change cat
3.change o2 sensors before and after cat (both).

I did that and the issue was fixed!!!!No more problems no more coilpacks melting anymore no more check engine symbol!!We opened tho old cat and looked inside it was like a big ball ,like it melted!or something!

But there is always a BUT!

I ve noticed that i have rough idle 700-200rpm sometimes an sometimes i hear a clunking sound in the engine room....reading the posts here i understand that this is a serious issue.One more thing the car consumes alot of gas alot more now.
But when you drive it goes really well no problem at all only the gas consumption is high and that clunking sound that comes and goes but no check engine symbol lights .

So im going to clean the EGR-valve se if that will help with gas consumption.

[gridlock2120]

Hello,
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege ES 2.0. Twice today the delay in acceleration occurred when accelerating from a stop. My gas is half full when it happened. And I had my gas tank repaired from leaks just the other day. I haven't checked the codes yet. I'm thinking that the fuel system got messed up when they have to remove and reinstall the tank for reconditioning.

Suggestions please?

Thanks.

P.S.

This is my first post.