"How to" request: electronic oil pressure guage install

[tallrd]

I just got an autometer half-sweep electronic analog oil pressure guage, and what I *do* know is that I want to "y" it off the line where the stock one is which trips the dummy light. I'll use braided steel brake lines to run that off the firewall or something b/c the sending unit this came with is *way* too big to have hanging off the block.

I just have no idea where that source is on the block. The "manual" the guage ships with is nicht so gut.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Moeed]

The feed is behind the block. Located above the oil cooler to the left some. Kinda center left.

[livelyjay]

I just got an autometer half-sweep electronic analog oil pressure guage, and what I *do* know is that I want to "y" it off the line where the stock one is which trips the dummy light. I'll use braided steel brake lines to run that off the firewall or something b/c the sending unit this came with is *way* too big to have hanging off the block.

I just have no idea where that source is on the block. The "manual" the guage ships with is nicht so gut.

Any help would be appreciated.
Problem will be that the threading where the stock oil pressure sender goes is BSPT if I remember correctly. Autometer uses NPT. You can't interchange the two threadings without risking leaks. Good luck getting it to work.

Attached is a picture of how I solved the oil pressure in my turbo Lancer OZ.

[tallrd]

Problem will be that the threading where the stock oil pressure sender goes is BSPT if I remember correctly. Autometer uses NPT. You can't interchange the two threadings without risking leaks. Good luck getting it to work.

Attached is a picture of how I solved the oil pressure in my turbo Lancer OZ.

this is somewhat helpful; I know I will need adapters to make this work. Does anyone know what size the stock port is on the block of an MSP? I'd like to have the correct parts BEFORE I'm in the middle of taking things apart.

[tallrd]

off the block is 1/8" BSPT.

I need help finding an 1/8" NPT male branch tee which has 2 female 1/8" NPT ports. I've looked for the past week all over the internet and found nothing which works--only people talking about it. This is the closest I could find but it's plastic :(:

http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=0634920&cls=1487&par=&cat=1&sch=100&pfx=&lstBool=true

please help if you have any leads. This project is begging to be finished.

[livelyjay]

I did find a Nissan parts dealer that sold a 1/8 BSPT fitting that had two 1/8 NPT ports drilled and tapped into it. The fitting was $50 though. I'll see if I can find it again.

You may also want to try tapping into the stock oil feed line. I haven't looked around under the car and such for the line feeding the turbo, but that's what I did on my Lancer (but that was an aftermarket oil line, so it was easier to do).

[livelyjay]

HA HA, I found it. Gimme props bi***es.

http://www.nissport.com/catalog/product.asp?ProductCode=NS-2100

[livelyjay]

Also, if you could find a 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 BSPT male, you could use this adapter as well: http://www.autopartsway.com/accessories/PartDetails.cfm?ID=A482269&A=LI

Then you get a 1/8 NPT female tee and set up your oil gauges that way. It would be cheaper too.

[tallrd]

Well, as much as I appreciate you finding this, I had to go another route b/c I simply wasn't able to find it. I'm just going to hook it up off the block and pray for the best. I did, however need this to make it work:
http://store.summitracing.com/

Part number is "ATM-2269" from Autometer through Summit and it's ~$12.00.

I appreciate the help though guys.

[livelyjay]

Cool. Let me ask you though, that would at least let you put the Autometer fittings and sending units to the block, but how did you reconnect the dummy light pressure switch? That's BSPT as well. I'm guessing you did the following.
Male BSPT to Female NPT
NPT male to NPT female tee (or combination of male tee and female couplers)
NPT male to BSPT female fitting to reconnect the stock sender

Does that about cover it?

[livelyjay]

Just found that male to female tee fitting you were looking for.

http://www.fitzilla.com/Store/page36.html

[Stormtrooper77]

Sorry, NPT? BSPT?

[livelyjay]

NPT - national pipe thread
BSPT - british standard pipe thread (i think)

[tallrd]

NPT - national pipe thread
BSPT - british standard pipe thread (i think)

What he said (including "I think").

Perhaps I misspoke earlier. I haven't installed it *yet*, but I have all the parts in hand and am just waiting for a day when it's not -4 outside (like right now for example). I have the Autometer sending unit which will replace the stock sender for the dummy light. I will then have a guage instead of the dummy light. I decided to keep it simple/stupid.

[livelyjay]

Just for anyone else thinking about doing this and finding this thread, here is a diagram I whipped up in paint for another thread.

[livelyjay]

Found a great site for finding all the adapters you'll need.
www.mcmaster.com

FITTINGS NEEDED FOR GAUGE INSTALLATION

1 Aftermarket Gauge without stock sender
1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female
Part number: 4860K141
Price: $3.79

Total: $3.79 + shipping

1 Aftermarket Gauge with stock sender
1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female
Part number: 4860K141
Price: $3.79

1/8 NPT male x 1/8 NPT female tee
Part number: 9171K31
Price: $9.61

1/8 NPT male to 1/8 BSPT male adapter
Part number: 4860K611
Price: $5.10

1/8 BSPT female coupling
Part number: 4978K131
Price: $2.69

Total: 21.19 + shipping

2 Aftermarket Gauges without stock sender
1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female
Part number: 4860K141
Price: $3.79

1/8 NPT male x 1/8 NPT female tee
Part number: 9171K31
Price: $9.61

Total: $13.40 + shipping

2 Aftermarket Gauges with stock sender - Option 1
1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT male
Part number: 4860K611
Price: $5.10

1/8 NPT female cross
Part number: 9171K92
Price: $14.15

1/8 NPT male to 1/8 BSPT male adapter
Part number: 4860K611
Price: $5.10

1/8 BSPT female coupling
Part number: 4978K131
Price: $2.69

Total: 27.04 + shipping

2 Aftermarket Gauges with stock sender - Option 2
Gauge adapter from www.nissport.com
Part number: NS-2100
Price: $49.00 + shipping

2 Aftermarket Guages with stock sender - Option 3
Gauge adapter from egauges.com (http://egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?Subgroup=BSP_OTOD)
Part number: OTOD
Price: $20 + shipping

[03orgspd]

k anyone with step by step directions or know where to point me to for these?

[livelyjay]

Could you be a little more specific with you question? I can help you out if you're a little more specific.

[03orgspd]

oh, its just that i have read a few threads and there are just bits and pieces of info on different segments of installing it, i just wanted to know if someone could make a little list of steps to take to install it, like a complete "how to" post.

[jmv]

i'm also interested in this... i'd be doing one gauge, with the stock sender.....

you listed all the parts, which is cool, but i don't know where stuff would be going.... also, the method you have, does that involve tapping into the block, or further along, because screwing into the block would scare me, if you crossthread then your block is gone... :/

anyway, thanks for the help!

[tallrd]

i'm also interested in this... i'd be doing one gauge, with the stock sender.....

you listed all the parts, which is cool, but i don't know where stuff would be going.... also, the method you have, does that involve tapping into the block, or further along, because screwing into the block would scare me, if you crossthread then your block is gone... :/

anyway, thanks for the help!

I got sick of trying to figure everything out and coming up against dead end after dead end, and before livelyjay put up his extremely useful post, I had already put mine in :(. Kudos to him/you for finding the right stuff.

I just ended up unscrewing the stock sender (not using it anymore), put the bspt(m) to npt (f) adapter in it's place, and screwed the autometer sending unit into that. I *did* make sure to use teflon tape around both threading points for a tight seal. This was done during an oil change b/c there is no easy way to do it otherwise--oil filter has to be off to negotiate that space. Works like a charm. I've since checked it twice at the connection to the block and it's totally clean (no leaks). Guage works great too.

I would recommend, however, getting the smaller sending unit and not the big-ass one I got. I believe they offer another version with a small sending unit. I think this thread should also help those with questions:

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123614075&page=3&pp=30

[Brian MP5T]

Dude!

[tallrd]

Dude!

Yes. It is I: "dude" (woowoo) (aka: Shawn)

So am I the first one on the forums to admit to taking your advice? (poke)

Thanks by the way (bowdown).

[livelyjay]

oh, its just that i have read a few threads and there are just bits and pieces of info on different segments of installing it, i just wanted to know if someone could make a little list of steps to take to install it, like a complete "how to" post.
Well, since it will be a while till I will be doing this, I can only offer generic instructions. Sorry, no tool sizes to list, someone else may be able to offer up a list, but basic hand tools should suffice.

1. Remove stock oil pressure sending unit, see second post in this thread (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123614075&page=3&pp=30) for picture of sending unit location.
2. Put thread sealent (teflon tape or liquid thread sealent) on your BSPT to NPT adapter fitting
3. Screw BSPT side of the fitting (compare fitting threads to sending unit threads) into where the stock sending unit used to be.
4. Attach additional fittings to the fitting installed in step 3, making sure to put thread sealent on all fittings.
5. Install sending units to the fittings as you see fit (it is recommended connect an approved hose to the fittings and remote mount the sending unit because of it's weight).

I'll draw up an MSPaint picture to show how I would do it.
In the picture I refer to a -8AN oil line, this is wrong. You should use -6AN or -4AN.

[livelyjay]

There we go, got the picture in there. Is that helpful enough guys? The picture shows the extreme with two oil gauges plus the stock sending unit hooked up. I would remote mount the aftermarket sending unit to the side of the engine compartment using a U bracket (or ghetto rid zip tie it to something else, not recommended).

The intsall on my Lancer OZ was easier because the block already has a threaded hole right above the oil filter (that was super useful for the turbo oil feed line). Same concept here, just a different oil source and stupid BSPT threading. I wish everyone would just use NPT, it would make it all so much easier.

[Maestrokneer]

2 Aftermarket Gauges with stock sender - Option 2
Gauge adapter from www.nissport.com (http://www.nissport.com)
Part number: NS-2100
Price: $49.00 + shipping

Hi Livelyjay,

I just installed my Autometer Ultra Lite Oil Pressure Gauge into my MSP gauge cluster, but have yet to actually hook it up.

The option above looks like the cleanest and sturdiest of all the other options (i.e. less connections = less chances for leak). But their website appears to be out of stock of the NS-2100 model. They have the variations of it: NS-2100R, NS2100S, etc. Do you know if these will work? Or is it only the NS-2100? Also, is there somewhere else we can order a similar part. I've yet to find a similar product.

I'm going to keep looking, but if you have any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks,

Maestro

[livelyjay]

I would call them and ask what the difference is. I am only guessing, but they probably just make the fitting a bit differently (size, shape, where the ports are located) depending on the Nissan engine it is made for. You will not likely find a similar product anywhere, at least not that I have found, and I spent a lot of time looking.

Don't be afraid to use the cheaper fittings and methods I described earlier in the thread. Using a good thread sealing material (high temp liquid thread sealer or thread tape) you'll be fine. I had this type of setup in my turbo Lancer and it never leaked.

[Maestrokneer]

Hey there, just wanted to update everyone that I called the NISsport website, and asked them what the difference was between their NS-2100R, S, and Q models were and they said there was no difference. The only reason they differentiate they said was to help with Google searches.

So I just ordered mine, and will let you know how my install goes next weekend. Good luck to anyone else doing this now. Anxious to hear any tips or suggestions you have.

(P.S. This may be a dumb question, and I could probably wait until I get out there to look at it....but can I do this WITHOUT doing an oil change? Or is there oil in the line to the sender unit? I thought that it was pointed up...so that if you took it off, oil wouldn't fall out...but I haven't actually located it yet. Anyway, let me know...thanks!)

[Kansei]

It's pointing straight out the block.. when I had it off my engine had no oil in it so I'm really not sure

[Maestrokneer]

Hmm....anyone else know? Because I just changed my oil 2000 miles ago (Mobil 1), and I don't really want to wait until it's time for another change.

Also, in your sketch LivelyJAy (which is great btw) you show a -8an oil line. But I think in another thread you suggest -4an. I just wanted to confirm that -4an would work and ask 1) How much length do you think I'll need (don't feel like jacking up the car just to find out)? Do you think 3 ft will do? Or should I get 6ft? (leaning towards 6ft) AND 2) how did you connect the hose to the 1/8" NPT adapter? Did you just use a hose clamp? Or is there a special fitting for the flexi hose? (I've only really every worked with vacuum hose, so this is new for me)

Thanks again for all the help,

EDIT: Just found this: http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Swivel-Seal_Male_Thread.asp

Did you use something like this? (though this is only for -6an...I'd have to check what the connection at the Autometer sender is)

[Maestrokneer]

bump...for questions above and new ones below: (Please help...hope to finish it this upcoming weekend)


So...everything I said above, and then also I wanted to know where you all were getting your oil lines and what type you used? Cause I thought that it was supposed to be like a stainless steel braided line (-6an or -4an?)....

and then I went to Kragen (yeah I know Kragen sucks...but it's the only AutoParts store within 10 minutes of my house)...and the jackass behind the counter gave me nylon tubing when I asked for -6an oil line for my oil pressure gauge install. I just looked at the flimsy little tube, and even though I don't really know what I'm supposed to be using, said, "no thanks". So...yeah......what kind of hose should I use? And what about the connectors? (the fittings I'm square on....in fact already got my adapter thanks to the great advice from you all on here. So just one little more detail and I'm set!)

Thanks for all your help in advance,

[03.5msprotege]

I have a mechanical oil pressure line in my other car and it works just fine. I used flexible copper tubing for the line and it was so easy to work with. Autometer makes it and I needed 2 packages. You can find it on their site.
Also, for the tee, I used a nismo one and that fit perfectly into my block 1/8 bspt but my block accepts a tapered fit. Be Aware. Autometer doesn't have tapered fits in their catalog so your gonna have to drill and tap out the tee.
Here's the one I used...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=25073-GTA&Category_Code=
Once I figured out that you need to drill and tap that unit to work with the autometer fittings it's been great.
DO NOT USE THAT PLASTIC NYLON CRAP as it's way too difficult to ensure that the brass fittings don't twist and pierce the line.
that's been my experience. I used the nismo tee on a nissan maxima.
good luck.

[jmv]

i've got some info on this stuff, but i gotta run to class, i'll try to answer some questions a little later

[03.5msprotege]

here's the flexible copper tubing that I used to install my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Part number 3224
http://autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=81
hope that helps you out.

[jmv]

heres a copy and paste of a PM i sent to someone looking for help, thats probably about all the info i've got, hopefully reading through that will help answer some questions, if you've got any questions about how i did stuff feel free to ask.

*note: i did my setup in a way which i could keep the stock dummy oil light on the dash. This makes it more difficult, but i felt like it would be a good thing to do. Also worth noting, this is for an electronic oil pressure gauge.... most people don't recommend having a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the car, because that means oil @ operating temperature is being pumped to your passenger compartment, which can be dangerous.*

to start off with, the stock sender and the block are both threaded with BSPT (british standard pipe thread). However, pretty much no matter who makes your gauge, the aftermarket sender is going to be NPT (national pipe thread), and so will pretty much all the fittings you can find. This means that you have to do some special adapters and whatnot. For this, livelyjay's post at the top of the second page in this (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615506&page=2&highlight=oil+pressure) thread is very helpful. The second list, under "1 aftermarket gauge with stock sender" Contains all the parts you'd need for your fittings, MINUS the pieces for the remote mounting (essential because not only is there not enough room, but also because you'd have a massive amount of stuff hanging off your block and vibrating and getting undue stress).

SO....

out of the block, you'll have the 1/8" BSPT male to 1/8" NPT female listed on livelyjay's list. From there, you'll go to a 1/8" NPT male to -4AN fitting (for your hose)(this is not on the list). You'll attach the hose here (i'll go into more detail about the hose later), and it will run to another -4AN fitting, but this time with a 1/8" NPT female on the other side. Next comes the Tee fitting thats on the list (The tee has i male and 2 female ends. the male side of the tee will attach to the female end of your hose fitting, leaving 2 open !1/8" NPT female parts). Into one of those, you will screw in the aftermarket sender. Into the other one, you will put the 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT male adapter, then the 1/8" BSPT female coupler, and finally put the stock sender into that. I know thats hard to visualize, and its a mouthful. If i need to clarify any of that let me know.

To mount this whole assembly some place, i hooked it to the underside of the intake manifold support bracket (you can't miss this piece, big black bracket thing right to the left of where your oil filter is.

Now, as for the hose.... i had ordered a stainless steel braided hose kit from summitracing.com along with hose ends, but it simply was not going to work, the hose ends were impossible to deal with, and the hose was really quite large around for the application, even though the inside diameter was just right. SO, i went to a local 'speed shop', and managed to get a hose that was also stainless steel braided, but i believe it was made of teflon so it was much thinner while being just as strong. I also was able to get one end of it with a 90 degree fitting which helped alot. I used the straight end coming out of the block, and brought it around to the left of the manifold bracket, using the 90 degree fitting to hook up to the tee.

The assembly with the senders, as i said, was attached to the mani support bracket. The way i orientated it, the male side of the tee was sticking out to the left, the aftermarket sender was sticking up, and the several adapters and stock sender were sticking out to the right. I put a metal hose clamp around the aftermarket sender and the bracket. I also drilled a hole in the bracket in the appropriate place and stuck a nut and bolt in there to allow the entire assembly to rest on the bolt, while being held securely by the hose clamp. In addition, to make sure the aftermarket sender was grounded very well, i took a wire that was bare on both ends, stuck one end under the hose clamp and the other in between the mani bracket and the intake mani where the bolts go, to make sure it made real good contact (if its not properly grounded you won't get an accurate reading.).

Hmmm, what else.... make sure you use thread sealant, but its recommended that you DON'T use the tape, but instead the paste stuff. I'm not entirely sure why, but i suspect it might be a way to help make a better ground contact, but i took care of that my own way. Oh and also, the BSPT piece that goes into the block that i got from the place livelyjay recommended kept leaking. I picked up the same type of fitting from the speed shop where i got the hose, and it worked well. I dunno if all the fittings have sealing issues, or if it was just that one, but be aware that i had a problem right there.

okay SO.....

heres a general shot of the whole assembly, mounted on the back of the intake manifold support bracket. You can use the location and orientation of the oil filter to help get a rough idea for comparison on your car...

http://f5.putfile.com/6/18010400351.jpg

and heres a shot of sorta where the hose is running, you can also see my ground wire @ the bolts for the bracket...

http://f5.putfile.com/6/18010410025.jpg

and now for where it taps into the block (pic is sideways, again, use the oil filter to orientate). This is where you'll find your stock switch with the green wire running to it. (you can see the stock switch on the lower right, with the green wire running to it.... )

http://f5.putfile.com/6/18010390364.jpg






So i know thats tons of info, and i've kind of cut and paste from things i've told people before, so if theres any holes in the logic just ask, i'm more than willing to help out!!

Jason

[03.5msprotege]

how much did that braided stainless steel line cost you?
The flexible copper line from autometer was like 30 Canadian for 12 feet with autometer fittings. It looks a lot nicer than my setup I will admit.

[Brian MP5T]

Cost with links.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90723&highlight=turbo+oil+line

[khaosman]

Jason... good post! How long was the hose you used, about a foot? It doesn't appear to necessitate being very long.

[Brian MP5T]

Mine was over 6 ft...

[Brian MP5T]

REFERENCE POST #3


Problem will be that the threading where the stock oil pressure sender goes is BSPT if I remember correctly. Autometer uses NPT. You can't interchange the two threadings without risking leaks. Good luck getting it to work.

Attached is a picture of how I solved the oil pressure in my turbo Lancer OZ.
Live Jay.

I woild like to tell you that the oil temp sensor will not do anything in the picture you posted.

The oil simply will not flow towards the pressure or temp sensor.

You need to re-locate the sensor to the other side as a minimum. It would be more effective if you tapped the oil temp sensor into the oil pan like it's supposed to be.

Oil temp is a very good indicator of touble... The way you have it will not do a single thing..

[khaosman]

Mine was over 6 ft...

Total, I assume, but I mean for just the short part (from the block to the splitter/senders).

[Brian MP5T]

Less than a foot.. but don't start with the correct length, No doubt you will have to cut it a couple of times to get the ends on unless you have done them before. They are a pain in the butt..

[jmv]

Jason... good post! How long was the hose you used, about a foot? It doesn't appear to necessitate being very long.


honestly i can't remember. It was right about at a foot i think. All we did was hold up a piece of small flexible tubing stuff we had laying around to judge, then measured what we figured was nessesary. I think the hose was ~$15?? Not bad. It was alot easier to deal with than the hoses from summit, at least for me. I've never dealt with braided hoses or hose ends before though, so it was much easier to have a shop do it.

EDIT: also worth noting, because of the angle i mounted all my stuff, having a built in right angle on the hose lessened the nessesary length. If it was a straight hose you'd have to allow more space for some gentle curvature.

[nazgul350r]

4860K441 BSPT Male tee $7.17
4978K131 BSPT Straight Female $5.38
4978K131 BSPT Male x NPT Female adaptor $3.91
$16.46 + shippinghttp://www.mcmaster.com/

Would this work?

Male tee off of block
stock sending unit on one side of tee
Straight female one the other side
BSPT Male x NPT Female adaptor connected to the Straight female

[jmv]

those aren't in the parts list that livelyjay posted. He had in mind a direct connection, but a remote setup is a much better idea if you're going to use the stock sender in addition to the aftermarket unit, since there would be a ton of mass hanging off of one threaded joint if you didn't remote mount it.

I got my 1/8 NPT to -4AN lines from summit racing. IIRC they weren't too hard to find, just make sure you get the specified male and female ends i talked about in my writeup.

[jmv]

4860K441 BSPT Male tee $7.17
4978K131 BSPT Straight Female $5.38
4978K131 BSPT Male x NPT Female adaptor $3.91
$16.46 + shippinghttp://www.mcmaster.com/

Would this work?

Male tee off of block
stock sending unit on one side of tee
Straight female one the other side
BSPT Male x NPT Female adaptor connected to the Straight female


i'm not sure whether you could pull that off or not. In theory it does seem like it would work, although its STILL the best idea to remote mount, due to the extra weight.... but that point aside, i'm not sure theres really room up there for all that stuff. And you don't nessesarily have much room to maneuver it around, since your tee governs which direction the other stuff goes and your tee has to be tight. I would still reccomend remote mounting it, although if you really don't want to you could try this and it MIGHT work.

[nazgul350r]

I talked to my dad this afternoon who uses these fittings in boiler repairs all the time and he also says that the weight might be too much. He said that is there is enough pipe to thread into it would hold...but.... I think I will go remote mount also.

[jmv]

cool. Yeah with something thats A) hanging directly out of your block, and B) carrying oil, if something goes wrong with it that could be QUITE bad.

[Maestrokneer]

Awesome Posts guys! Thank you so much for the help. It looks like I won't get to it this weekend, but I should be able to tackle it in the near future.

Just as a clarify, you all used a -4an oil line? Is that correct? Or did you use a -6an?

Thanks again!

[jmv]

i used -4AN, not sure about others.

[Maestrokneer]

Cool....thanks jmv

[jmv]

anytime!

[khaosman]

BSPT fittings are the work of the devil. That is all. I think I am going to have an oil-filter sandwich plate thing overnighted to me (yupnope)

[khaosman]

I found a site with lots of BSP stuff http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMADAPTBSP

They don't appear to be tapered though. Think it'd work good with a crush washer and some teflon paste?

[jmv]

i dunno, i just used the stuff from livelyjay's list which i linked in my earlier post, except for the one fitting right off of the block. The one i got seemed to leak, so i stopped by a 'speed shop' and they carried that piece since apparently nissans and a few others use that too

[khaosman]

I found a GREAT how-to thread on honda-tech about this very subject. Check it out: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=377208&postid=6785467#6785467

[livelyjay]

i dunno, i just used the stuff from livelyjay's list which i linked in my earlier post, except for the one fitting right off of the block. The one i got seemed to leak, so i stopped by a 'speed shop' and they carried that piece since apparently nissans and a few others use that too
Good to know I contributed in some way to the forum.

What was the problem with the fitting you bought? I know Nissan's and most Japanese cars use BSPT fittings for the oil. Just wondering if maybe I need to update my posts.

[jmv]

i just couldn't get it to completely seal. I put the tape sealant on all the threads but it kept slowly leaking. I grabbed a part from a local place and it seemed to seal okay. I dunno??

[Concept MSP]

cool. Yeah with something thats A) hanging directly out of your block, and B) carrying oil, if something goes wrong with it that could be QUITE bad.

Agreed. Speaking from experience it was bad. I had a similar setup, and the brass fitting broke of (after about a year and a half). Half of the fitting was still stuck in the block. Oil got all over the inderside of the car from the engine to the muffler. I ended up getting the stuck portion out, but the stock sender didn't fit well after that. Ended up getting it fixed by the dealer. Just words of caution.

[livelyjay]

*bump*

I found another option for connecting gauges to the stock pressure sender location and it has been added to my list on Post #16 (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2174437&postcount=16)

[Tzar177]

i bought this adaptor: 1 Aftermarket Gauge without stock sender
1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female
Part number: 4860K141

My sender will screw a few threads into the adaptor then stop. shouldnt i be able to screw it all the way hand tight? havent tried with tools yet, didnt wanna strip the threads before gettin it onto the car....

[livelyjay]

I am guessing the problem is the sending unit is longer than the adapter will allow. Use teflon/thread tape and screw it in until it stops. If you can get more than three threads you should be safe. Install it and check for leaks every day for a few days. If it's not tight enough it will leak slowly, so it won't be catastrophic. Worse comes to worse you'll have to get two more fittings to allow for the extra length in the sending unit. 1/8 NPT male to 1/8 NPT male and 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT female. That would give you enough room if what you have doesn't already work.

[Maestrokneer]

Ok....I need major help and FAST!

My car is up on jack stands, sitting in my driveway without oil, and I can't move it until I get this damn pressure gauge installed.

So I've taken off my oil filter, and I can see the stock sender unit (barely).

My question is, I can barely see and touch the stock sender unit so how in the hell am I supposed to:

1) Remove the Stock sender unit? (adjustable wrench?)
2) Attach 1/8"NPT-1/8"BPT adapter with thread sealant? (I have the Nismo one Jay found earlier)
3) Reattach the Stock sender unit, and braided hose to Autometer Sender Unit?

Once my arm is up in this narrow window of space (see picture), I can't even see what I'm doing. It's all by feel. Is this what you all did? Or did you take off the black bracket? It's hard to see what that's supporting when you're on your back under the car, so I wasn't sure if that would be ok.

I would much appreciate any tips/comments you all have that could help. Thanks,

Maestro

[Maestrokneer]

bumpety bump

[khaosman]

Take the bracket off for sure, that is easy. It is just a couple 14mm bolts IIRC. You can put the sealant on your adapter before you mount. You also might be able to attach a couple of the accessories to it while it is out of the car and then screw it in. The line you will have to do while it is on the motor though.

Don't over torque it and break it :)

[Maestrokneer]

Thanks khaos.

Anyone else care to share what they did?

For those that kept the stock sender, was it a pain to connect it to the adapter once the adapter's in the block because of the wire coming off of it? Did you just leave it hanging there in the interim? That's the one step I'm fuzzy on.

Thanks,

(3 hours till dark.....here's hoping)

[khaosman]

You can remove that wire super easy. It is just a female spade connector, just pull it off.

[Maestrokneer]

good to know. Thanks again khaos.

Sadly, I wasn't able to get the bracket off. I got my 14mm socket out and was wrenching the hell out of those bolts, but to no avail. It only had an 8" handle on it, but still.....I had to have been putting at least 50ft-lb of torque on that sucker.

Not sure if they used locktite on it or what....

Did you have any problems getting those bolts off?

[khaosman]

No not really... you could try heating it up with a torch if you have one. Or just use a big breaker bar. Those bolts should be torqued around 40ft-lb. I'd try a bigger bar if you have one. Or slip a pipe over the end of it.

[Driver_X]

Has any one tried on of those oil filter sandwich plates? http://www.theneonedge.com/oilfilteradapterdia.jpg They basically just bolt in between the block and the oil filter. They allow you add up to 4 different sensor using 1/8 npt fittings? Probably should take no more than 15 to 20 mintures to install. Price wise, its about the same for doing the 1 after market gauge, plus the stock sener. Let me know what you guys think about this!!!!! I've PM on member that has a plate to see what effects he had notice, but I dont think he has had time to put it on yet!
click here for the actual listing on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-FILTER-SANDWICH-ADAPTER-MAZDA-MX-3-MX-6-PROTEGE-626_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ015QQitem Z250151425437).

[Driver_X]

more pics of item
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/productimages/OILFILTERDIA.jpg

[starscream2k1]

if that plate/adaptor thing works i'll be going that route since it makes it 100% easier to do....

[livelyjay]

I have heard the sandwich plate does not work because it pushes the oil filter too far away from the block. It makes it physically impossible to change your filter because the plate pushes the filter too close to other things that sit just beyond the filter.

[starscream2k1]

what about this... since the stock location is already a PITA. Get the sandwich plate there and run your sensors and gauges and whatever. Then get a oil filter relocation kit and relocate the filter. Would that work? the only thing i would worry about is, is it going to read the oil pressure correctly and all that?

[livelyjay]

Actually, I have a relocation kit sitting in my garage right now. I am going to be relocating the filter somewhere to the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'm going to mount the filter adapter to a hard point, like the fender wall or something. Where the hoses come into the filter adapter I am going to put in a brass tee and add the oil pressure sending unit there.

Yous suggestion would work, but it would likely cost more that way then just adding in a bunch of fittings near the filter adapter in the relocation kit like I am doing. You're not supposed to hang the oil pressure sending unit off the engine block, you're supposed to remote mount it. So when using the sandwich plate you may get some leaks down the road unless you remote mount the sending unit and run a stainless oil line to it.

[starscream2k1]

Actually, I have a relocation kit sitting in my garage right now. I am going to be relocating the filter somewhere to the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'm going to mount the filter adapter to a hard point, like the fender wall or something. Where the hoses come into the filter adapter I am going to put in a brass tee and add the oil pressure sending unit there.

Yous suggestion would work, but it would likely cost more that way then just adding in a bunch of fittings near the filter adapter in the relocation kit like I am doing. You're not supposed to hang the oil pressure sending unit off the engine block, you're supposed to remote mount it. So when using the sandwich plate you may get some leaks down the road unless you remote mount the sending unit and run a stainless oil line to it.

but isnt the stock one in the same place? like the sandwich would have it so the stocker and the aftermarket one are both near the same place? how would a leak happen? (sorry i didnt know that could happen since its close to the block...)

[livelyjay]

The reason why the leak would happen is because the oil pressure sending unit is heavy, and more likely than not the attachment point is made out of brass, which is soft. Engine vibrations will cause a lot of stress on the attachment point because of the weight of the sending unit. This stress will eventually lead to a leak and possibly a complete failure in the sending unit. The stock sending unit is no where near as big as an aftermarket sending unit, this why it can be attached to the block without any problems. If the sandwich plate is made out of billet aluminum, you run a smaller risk of leaks, but it's a risk I for one would not be willing to take.

[starscream2k1]

what if i were to like brace the sender unit or something. I really just want to eliminate all the adaptors and stuff. hence why i like the sandwhich plate..... seems complicated that way with so many adaptors...

[livelyjay]

Bracing it would be sufficient, but another alternative would be to remote mount it with a stainless steel oil line. So you would have the following:

Block
Sandwich adapter -> oil line -> oil pressure sender
Relocation adapter -> oil lines -> relocation adapter -> oil filter

[starscream2k1]

which method in your opinion is better... (with your requirements being ease of installation, and most reliable (against leaking and shit)?

secondary to that would be price and ease of changing parts etc...

[livelyjay]

Installations are going to be pretty equal across the board. I think the way I am going to do it will be the best of both worlds.

For Oil Pressure:
Relocation kit (make sure it has threaded hose ends and not barbs)
Male to two female tee (fits hose end from kit)
Male to female adapter (move down size from hose end to 1/8 NPT of oil pressure)

For Oil Temp
The best place to get the temp reading is the oil pan. Autometer makes a special fitting that adapts the oil pan plug, in male size, to 1/8 NPT female for the temp sending unit.

[Driver_X]

Sry to post this question here but I figure since yall know about install oil pressure gauges, that yall would be able to help me with this. I finally got my gauge installed, and I really dont know how to go about reading the gauge correctly. When driving about 75 to 80 mph, it read about 42 or 45 psi or what ever it units are. (check in the morning.) Anyhow when the car idles, it drops down to like 15 or so.... Does this sound correct. I thought that the gauge was suppose to stay at the same level at all times while the car is running...but I guess I'm wrong.

Also I have to check in the morning to see if I have any leaks, but I didnt have to go through all the work of ordering the fitting off line to make it work with the stock spot for the dummy light. I just went to my local hardware store and took the two pieces that I was trying to connect and they hooked me up with what I needed. (plumbing section of Lowes) So far so good...

[livelyjay]

It depends on the type of gauge you have, but at idle your oil pressure will be lower and at full throttle it will be higher. It's been a while since I've had a gauge, but I think your readings are a bit low. I think when driving I was seeing close to 100 psi and idle I was around 15-20 psi. Check for leaks. If you don't have any then maybe you don't have a "valid" pressure source.

[Driver_X]

Yea, I did have a leak, Oil was all over the place. I think I have it fixed. So it is normal to see it move around a little. The spot that I used was the spot where this forum talked about...T'ing off where the Oil Dummy light sensor is.

[livelyjay]

That is a valid pressure source. If you did not use the correct fittings, however, you will never solve the leak problem. I hope you used BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) fittings for the block and dummy light sending unit, because normal NPT (National Pipe Thread, what the aftermarket gauge sending unit will be) that you'll get from Home Depot will not work and will always leak.

[SIBalla23]

good info