Installed my DSM AFC last night

[TenaciousB]

Well after about alittle over a month the AFC arrived on my doorstep this week. I finally couldn't stand the wait anymore so I decided to install it last night. Let me say first, thanks to Casopolis for the wiring diagram, it made the install easier to understand. And secondly, thanks to DSMConvert for making an awesome product, I couldn't be happier.

The install was pretty easy for the most part. After taking off the plastic side pieces and pulling the carpet back on the passenger side floor, I removed the metal plate that the ECU was hooked to. (note: be careful when doing this, the edges of the plate are very sharp, I cut my finger on it). Oh, and in case anyone is doing this in the future, the bolts that hold it on are 10mm size. I used a small ratchet with an extension. The ECU was a large sqare box with a wiring harness going into it. It is held on by one 10mm bolt. I recommend getting one of those spring loaded wire strippers. It was a lot easier to use because the wires were so small. I chose to solder my wire connections. I got some vacuum tubing and a T-fitting from Pepboys and used the intake mani vacuum source. And finally mounted the AFC in the glove box. I drilled two small holes to run the wires out the bottom of the glove box.

As for the performance improvement. I took it for a drive after I was done. I had no idling issues, no CEL's, car worked perfectly. All hesitation is gone, and power delivery is much stronger and smoother throughout the revband. It is like a whole new car. The butt dyno tells me there were some power gains. I will hopefully be getting a dyno done this month to send back to DSM for even more power tweaking. Overall, this is by far the best mod I have done to date for the car. For the improvements it made it was well worth the price and the wait. I highly recomend this to anyone who needs an EMS, but doesn't want to go the stand alone route. This is definetly an awesome product. Sign up now to get one.

[CitizenPro]

Sounds good to me......congrats (thumb)

[Ryoga28]

I'm satisfied with mine too. Just wondering though, what boost are you running now? Which vac line are you tapping? I may relocate mine to the brake booster after I get the vacuum block setup.

[TenaciousB]

I'm running like 9.5psi, sometimes it spikes slightly past 10. I taped the small black vacuum hose on the intake mani. Its the same spot I have my boost gauge. I just got another T-fitting to go next to the boost gauge one. I thought about going with the brake booster line also. I've heard that suggested on this site. I just wasn't 100% sure on where exactly it was and where I should tap into it.

[Ryoga28]

Here's a good thread regarding the brake booster. http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116000&highlight=vacuum+block

[TenaciousB]

Here's a good thread regarding the brake booster. http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116000&highlight=vacuum+block


cool, I might think about swapping sources eventually.

[MazdaSpeedSter]

how long a difficult was the install, I'm getting mine from freshorange. I'm going on 9-10psi also... Basically all bolt on's in the front end and perrin exhaust.

[Ryoga28]

how long a difficult was the install, I'm getting mine from freshorange. I'm going on 9-10psi also... Basically all bolt on's in the front end and perrin exhaust.

The install isn't too bad at all, just time consuming if it's your first time removing the ecu. I suggest downloading/printing peepsalot's ecu diagram to make the install smoother and also to use some 3m scotch lock connectors. The connectors that were provided were made for a different app. Also finally use gloves during the removal of the ecu.

Most of the people on the board, ran the vac line thru the driver's side gromit. Get a 1/8 to 3/16th connector in order to extend the vacuum line. Also make sure you have a t fitting for the 3/16th line around. Lastly, some long/short wire ties are needed.

[TenaciousB]

how long a difficult was the install, I'm getting mine from freshorange. I'm going on 9-10psi also... Basically all bolt on's in the front end and perrin exhaust.


From start to finish it took me about 1:30hrs and that included me soldering wires. As long as you have all the supplies and know where you are going to tap the vacuum source, I'd say 2 hrs max. I definetly recommend the diagram, it helps in locating the wires to tap. Otherwise, the wires are numbered on the ecu harness and you can count them.

[^tyrant^]

tenacious, can you pull the maps off of yours and post?

i have the AFC installed in my car and it started running like crap, so i checked the maps and they were not the maps that i originaly put on the AFC.

i just want to see what maps yours is running, mine had the supermap on there untill it reset some how.

[vxfilmer1000]

I wouldnt mind seeing some pics of where you mounted it either.

[TenaciousB]

tenacious, can you pull the maps off of yours and post?

i have the AFC installed in my car and it started running like crap, so i checked the maps and they were not the maps that i originaly put on the AFC.

i just want to see what maps yours is running, mine had the supermap on there untill it reset some how.


I would try, but I don't have a laptop. I know that you can download the supermap and the fmic maps at www.airflowlogistics.com

[TenaciousB]

I wouldnt mind seeing some pics of where you mounted it either.


Inside the glove box. I just drilled two small holes to run the wires through.

[vxfilmer1000]

OO i see. I like it there, possible where ill be putting mine.....when i get one.

[MazdaSpeedSter]

The install isn't too bad at all, just time consuming if it's your first time removing the ecu. I suggest downloading/printing peepsalot's ecu diagram to make the install smoother and also to use some 3m scotch lock connectors. The connectors that were provided were made for a different app. Also finally use gloves during the removal of the ecu.

Most of the people on the board, ran the vac line thru the driver's side gromit. Get a 1/8 to 3/16th connector in order to extend the vacuum line. Also make sure you have a t fitting for the 3/16th line around. Lastly, some long/short wire ties are needed.Just searched... Where can I find peep's diagram¿

[Ryoga28]

Just searched... Where can I find peep's diagram¿

Opps...It was casopolis who did the diagram.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110033&highlight=afc+dsm+install

[MazdaSpeedSter]

(lol) thanks...

[DSMConvert]

tyrant...both maps are available on our website...if your maps spontaneously disappear again let me know....def not something that the afc should be doing...

[^tyrant^]

DSM, ya thats what i thought too, its been ok since i reflashed the supermap, i just thoguht it was strange since this one is the second one ive had, the first was DOA.


but i will let you know if it happens agian.

[MazdaSpeedSter]

is there a how to on this¿

[AirFlowTech]

I just thought i would throw this out there, For those of you that do not have laptops, but do have desktops with serial ports, i have some suggestions.

option 1
go to a salvage yard, and find, or purchase new, a automotive grade harness with enough conductors for all the AFC signals, 7 wires if memory serves,

get at least 2 identical sets(2 males 2 females). In this way you can make the AFC quick disconnect. for instance, since the afc will be interfaced with the ECU with a harness, you can unplug the ecu, this will take up one set of the 2 identical harnesses you use.

put the male harness on the car side, and the female harness on the ecu side.

use the second female harness to make a loopback adaptor, where all signals will be routed to the correct wires, so that when you have the afc unplugged from the car, you can plug in the second female connector, and run the car as if it afc is not installed.

use the second male connector, so that when you are inside your house, you can use a 12v battery, and plug the afc into it, so you can program the afc.

option 2. make a long serial cable. serial cables can be up to 100 feet in length if data grade sheilded cable is used(cat5 ethernet cable will work fine), all parts needed to do this should be available from radio shack)

I plan to post writeups and pictures of both of these configurations on our website in the near future, and in the future (still discussing with dsmconvert), may offer a prebuilt harness to make removing the afc whenever necessary, as painless as possible.

[Notorious_V.I.C]

When you have this unit installed and get a dyno run on the supermap and say i turn my boost up higher then 10 What do i send back to DSM to have a map made if I don't ahve a laptop??

How hard is it to tune the maps, with a laptop and how much do people get charged to tune this unit if you don't have a laptop. I hope you don't have to disconnect the whole thing and send it out to have the maps tuned. Does DSM or Airflow charge to tune ?

How do the people at the dynos tune this unit?

[newFormula]

what gauges woudl you reccomend to get inorder to tune the product yourself?

[DSMConvert]

Ok if you get it dyno tuned they should have a laptop/computer right there to tune it with. The only thing you might have to bring them is the r4 software cd included with the unit. You should never have to remove the unit to tune/upload new maps. If you do not have a laptop you will need to borrow a friends to upload the new maps. We do offer dyno results consulting, and can adjust your map according to dyno results, the first one is free, but please remember the best option is still to have it tuned at the dyno facility. If you are going to tune it on the street we strongly recommed a wideband o2 and/or egt gauge.

[CasopoliS]

Glad I could help. +1 for DSM helping the community out.

[^tyrant^]

it took me some time to learn what i was doing with tuning this,, but i got it dynoed with afrs, and i just sat down and started hacking at the supermap, after the little bit of adjusting that i did i manage to get 10whp with just a few changes, the maps could be better cus it still runs prety rich at time,,

what i cant figure out is, at the last dyno i did it was staying nice a steady at 12 something, and then just went pig rich, if i can get it to lean out some at the top end i can get some more power out of her.