Rebuilding a 2.0l

[Nightmare]

I have a problem with my LX.
it is tapping in the bottem end, and i dont know why exactly.
my warranty was refused, and it looks like i may have to rebuild it myself.

where do you fellas buy your parts? ill be damned if im going to mazda for more than i have to..

i need a complete list of the parts needed to rebuild a FS-DE

thanks!

[bestmazda01]

what are you going to replace ? rods? bearings? what exactly

[Nightmare]

the car must have had some oil starvation, so im assuming a standard rebuild is all im going to have to pull off.

rod bearings..
ive been using synthetic since i bough the car. so my piston rings are fine.

its tapping, but the car is still easily driveable

[Nightmare]

actually, forget it.. i know what i have to buy now..

[bestmazda01]

it could be the cylinder head (a valve) or something....

[rednecks_r_us]

Just buy an engine from Mental addiction Motorsports and be done with it.


2.0L FS-DE Built Protege Motor$2,995.00http://*******************************/cart/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://*******************************/cart/images/tn_IMG_0491.jpg
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Click to enlarge (http://*******************************/cart/images/tn_IMG_0491.jpg?osCsid=79e576dbaa534cc1fca427082af cd98c)

Our short blocks are fully machined and deburred. When we build our motors we do the whole nine yards.

Our short blocks come with:
CP Pistons
CP Gold Ring Package
Oliver Billet Rods
Toga bearings
ARP Main studs
New oil squirters
New Freeze Plugs
New Oil galley plugs
We address the crank walk issuse by having a second thrust bearing machined and installed, we have the crank nitrated a second time, then it gets micro polished, line honed, square decked, bored, honed, plateaued, all oil passages chaffered, full block debur, and more! Their is a $500 core charge to be added

We do not simply bore & hone and put new rods in pistons in. Everything is done to spec and a full build sheet comes with our motors. The customer will know all tolerances and specs. Our motors are $2995, plus core. Freight Charges for this item are calculated based on weight.

[Mental Addiction]

Are you looking for a stock rebuild? If so, a junkyard motor will be cheapest. To rebuild back to stock will cost you almost the same to build it forged.

[Nightmare]

I would consider the forged motor, IF it were for my speed.

this is for my 03 LX, the car is more than driveable. the tapping is for sure in the bottom end. and im pretty damn sure it just needs rodbearings..

when i blow the good shit out of my mazdaspeeds engine, ill be buying a block for sure from MAM

but for now, i just want the car in good working order so i can sell it!

[Mr. Win]

uhh take it to a shop and find out exactly what the problem is

[Nightmare]

i took it to MAZDA

they diagnosed the problem as an internal affair. my oil light was on the night of the tapping when it started, they already had the intake off to check the VTCS and screws, not the problem..

starting school in 2 weeks, have no money to replace whole motors, especially if this ones not blown yet.

[CasopoliS]

Put the FS-DE from the MSP in the LX, then put a forged FS from MAM in the MSP because it is about to blow up anyway. They all are....

[CasopoliS]

starting school in 2 weeks

shit nevermind just fix the bearings (or whatever is the problem),
then bend over and grab your ankles for school

[Nightmare]

hahahahaha

[Mr. Win]

internal affair... umm okay that narrows it down. Do you have oil in the car?

[CasopoliS]

Do you have oil in the car?

This was actually my first thought...

[Nightmare]

at the time when the tapping started, very little.

it was one of those situations where your on the highway on your way to asshill nowhere, and your oil light pops on..
limped it home nice and careful and give it an oil change. drove it the next week, cause i dident have the funds, nor do i live in an area with a bus route. no problems.

all its doing is tapping.


you'd know better than i would at this point, but would the rod bearings for a 1.8 for a 2000 protege fit in my 2.0l?
i keep reading posts on how similar these engines are to each other..

[Mr. Win]

im sorry but if you dont have the sense to stop at the closet gas station or pull over and check things out i would not attempt an engine tear down. Engines need oil, who know how much damage is done.

i believe the oil light comes on at 5psi of pressure... general no good.

[bestmazda01]

yep, when the oil pressure light comes on it means this:

STOP THE CAR NOW AND ADD OIL

not "stop the car after i limp home"

[DiS]

People please dont turn this into flames or anything.....
guy learned his lesson and now he's more than willing to fix it....at least I hope so. Keep it l33t, hehe.

but, as bestmazda01 said, whenever something ESPECIALLY oil light on the dash turns on, you definetly have to pull over, no matter where you are and check things out.....or call AAA or something (thats if you have no clue whats wrong)

Best of luck to ya, and hope that you will take care of the problem shortly.

[Nightmare]

im sorry but if you dont have the sense to stop at the closet gas station or pull over and check things out i would not attempt an engine tear down. Engines need oil, who know how much damage is done.

i believe the oil light comes on at 5psi of pressure... general no good.


yep, when the oil pressure light comes on it means this:

STOP THE CAR NOW AND ADD OIL

not "stop the car after i limp home"

guys.. its bad enough i roasted my engine.. seriously.
i just came on here asking a few questions, i dont deserve to get shot at.


i came to this forum looking for help.. if you have any, i'd like to hear it..
if your just going to call me incompetent, becuase i was 100kms on a highway in the middle of nowhere at 4:20am with no one to call.. please, keep it to yourself.

i did my best, i thought it would have been enough. but the tapping started Before the oil light came on. regardless.. damage was done.


just please, unsubcribe if you cant say anything thats either going to help me, or at least throw me some ideas.

[Nightmare]

People please dont turn this into flames or anything.....
guy learned his lesson and now he's more than willing to fix it....at least I hope so. Keep it l33t, hehe.

but, as bestmazda01 said, whenever something ESPECIALLY oil light on the dash turns on, you definetly have to pull over, no matter where you are and check things out.....or call AAA or something (thats if you have no clue whats wrong)

Best of luck to ya, and hope that you will take care of the problem shortly.


thanks man..

[DiS]

thanks man..

Im feeling your pain man. I had ViCS problem for a while......Im probably the only one on these forums who lost 5 screws out of 8 and been jerked off by a dealershit for 2 and 1/2 months

[Mr. Win]

it started tapping before hand because the light comes on at 5psi of pressure.

Figure whats wrong and then people can acutally help.

[Nightmare]

wow. that was dense.

Man, i came on here to ask questions, questions to lead me in the right direction to my problem.

if i knew my exact problem, dont ya think i'd just fix it instead of asking about it?

I have rebuilt a motor before, all be it an old 2.2l turbo dodge motor, but it damn well worked.
Now im faced with a problem, with an engine im still learning about, but the fact is, its still just a motor. So, what could my problems be... oil starvation, what does this cause?
heat and friction.
whats affected?
Everything that the oil lubricates.

my question is, what is it likely to affect first? im going to take a shot in the dark when i say rod bearings..

Car is still driveable, dont want to push it, but god damnit man, wouldent you know it rolled over 2000kms and the tapping is no louder than the day it started..

Engines not fucked, but some part in there is certainly not happy.

How much more detail, and information do i need to spit out before i stop getting remarks like "you should known better, you made a mistake, therefore you cant possibly be left unattended, otherwise you might swallow your tongue and choke on a pre chewed cracker."

i just want some honest ideas on what the problem might be.

thanks.

[Mr. Win]

okay heres everything it could be:

Main bearing
Connecting Rod bearing
Piston nosie (could be because above)
Valve actuating noise

[Nightmare]

perfect.

thanks Senor.