Quaife LSD - help?

[Kooldino]

Ok, so yesterday I received my Quaife LSD from Corksport.

The first thing I learned is that I'd have to remove the ring gear off of the stock diff, and bolt it to the Quaife.

The problem is that there are 10 big "rivet" like things that have to be removed before it will come apart.

This proved to be a filthy whore of a job.

Don't even bother attempting this in your garage, unless you have some SERIOUS tools.

The first thing I tried was grinding the head of one of these things and beating out the remainder with a punch and a sledge. It was a good laugh. It didn't even budge.

Luckily, I have access to a machine shop. The method I found best was this:

-Put the assembly in a vice on a drill press, with the diff side down.

-Set the speed to ~500rpm

-Put in a small (1/8" or so) drill bit, and be very anal about finding the center of one of the "rivets". Once you find the dead center, drill it with that small bit.

-Now, don't move anything. Switch out to a 1/4" or so bit. Drill it again.

-Repeat again, only with a 3/8" bit or so. When you get far down in the rivet, you may notice that it starts spinning with the bit. Keep going, and go all the way through. The "rivet" wil eventually just break apart.

-Repeat the above steps 9 times.

Now, I assumed that once the rivets were out that it would just come apart. Wrong again. We then put it on a press, diff side up. Make sure that the ring gear is resting on an edge, so that when you push down on the diff, the center plate will be able to come out without hitting whatever the ring gear is resting on. This will be a lot easier to understand if/when I post pics.

Be sure to have someone/thing ready to catch the stock diff as you're pressing it out of the ring gear, or it will fall on the ground and possibly get damaged.

So yay, now you have the ring gear free.

But, AFAIK, you still need the pink speedo gear and the bearings. And I have NO idea how to get those off. Does anyone know how to get the bearings and pink speedo gear off??

When we used a puller and tried to get the bearings off, they just exploded everywhere.

So that's where I'm stuck at the moment.

[TurfBurn]

You should be able to used a fixed press/bearing holder plate... then use a hydraulic press to press the diff out of the bearings... the bearings need to be supported all the way around by a proper plate, and then they should hold up ok and come off. You need to replace them anyway when you put together the new diff.

Also.. don't forget to modify the shift gate plate before you put the Quaife in.

[TurfBurn]

Too expensive :) LOL... I like my little MSP diff ;)... but at least yours has a liftetime warranty.. mine is just tigged to hell :)

[Kooldino]

You should be able to used a fixed press/bearing holder plate... then use a hydraulic press to press the diff out of the bearings... the bearings need to be supported all the way around by a proper plate, and then they should hold up ok and come off. You need to replace them anyway when you put together the new diff.

Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna need two new bearings and races.

Also.. don't forget to modify the shift gate plate before you put the Quaife in.

Say what?

[Kooldino]

Too expensive :) LOL... I like my little MSP diff ;)... but at least yours has a liftetime warranty.. mine is just tigged to hell :)
Well, the warranty was attractive, and the fact that it provides better grip just sold me.

I've driven a few MSPs and wasn't overly impressed with the LSD, although it beats my open diff.

[TurfBurn]

Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna need two new bearings and races.



Say what?
You have to machine off the top of the shift gate or the LSD won't fit. It'll hit on the gate.


It'll drop in and fit fine... but it'll hit on the gate when rotated...


for the bearings call Richard at Mazdastuff and let him know i sent you.. he can get you great deals on the parts.

[TurfBurn]

Well, the warranty was attractive, and the fact that it provides better grip just sold me.

I've driven a few MSPs and wasn't overly impressed with the LSD, although it beats my open diff.

Based on what though? how do you say that the LSD wasn't overly impressive? It still locks up and keeps both tires going together and does it quick enough and smooth enough to work well... so why do you say it wasn't overly impressive? I'd need to drive them back to back again, but I don't remember there being a significant difference in feel.

[Kooldino]

You have to machine off the top of the shift gate or the LSD won't fit. It'll hit on the gate.
Super. By "gate" do you mean the thing in the trans with the 6 settings, which has the little "pin" gear indicator thing?

Also, which RTV do you reccomend for putting the trans together? Ultra Gray?

[Kooldino]

Based on what though? how do you say that the LSD wasn't overly impressive? It still locks up and keeps both tires going together and does it quick enough and smooth enough to work well... so why do you say it wasn't overly impressive? I'd need to drive them back to back again, but I don't remember there being a significant difference in feel.

Well, I've never driven a Protege with a Quaife in it, but with the exception of yourself, everyone who has driven one with an MSP LSD and one with a Quaife LSD said it was night and day.

Don't forget, the race teams used the Quaife, not the MSP.

Then when you look at the designs and specs of the actual units, the Quiafe has another advantage.

But that's all just for another thread.

I based my purchase on people who's opinions I trust who have experience with both, as well as the design.

[TurfBurn]

Super. By "gate" do you mean the thing in the trans with the 6 settings, which has the little "pin" gear indicator thing?

Also, which RTV do you reccomend for putting the trans together? Ultra Gray?

It's the flat plate with the raised double H in it for guiding the shifter through the shift pattern... you need to file down half of it so that it is flush with the body of that metal plate... you'll understand when you see it.


Yeah I use the ultra gray or the black.

[TurfBurn]

Well, I've never driven a Protege with a Quaife in it, but with the exception of yourself, everyone who has driven one with an MSP LSD and one with a Quaife LSD said it was night and day.

Don't forget, the race teams used the Quaife, not the MSP.

Then when you look at the designs and specs of the actual units, the Quiafe has another advantage.

But that's all just for another thread.

I based my purchase on people who's opinions I trust who have experience with both, as well as the design.

I know the torque lockup is different between them... but how that affects feel for what most of us do is another thing... the race teams need to do a lot more abuse and they are going to use much higher end components.. doesn't mean you'll know the difference...

I don't disagree that the Quaife is a superior unit... the cost factor is where I shudder... more than twice as much for something 98% of the time you'll never be able to tell the difference between???

Keep in mind most of those cars equipped with Quaife's instead of MSP LSD's are going to be set up different suspension wise and body wise etc... a couple fractions different in toe and turn in response and the like are massively difference... so a direct comparison is nearly impossible unless identical stock suspensions with matched alignments are used back to back with the only difference being that diff.

In the end the Quaife is a better unit and a stronger design... but until I can see for myself directly (whenever I get back out to Cali and drive Jeremy's MP3 when it is up again) I'll maintain there is no way it is worth the extra cost.

compare on paper and the Quaife wins... but is the reality of the value still a win.

[Kooldino]

It's the flat plate with the raised double H in it for guiding the shifter through the shift pattern... you need to file down half of it so that it is flush with the body of that metal plate... you'll understand when you see it.

Yeah, that's the part I'm talking about too.

Will I be able to do this with a grinder, or does it actually have to be machined?

Yeah I use the ultra gray or the black.

Thanks.

[TurfBurn]

Patience and a dremel was how we did it last time.. so you should be good :)

[Kooldino]

List of parts that I think I'm going to have to order: Please correct me if I am wrong.

-2x race / carrier bearing set (one for each side of the diff). I'm assuming that the set is the carrier bearing and the race that sits INSIDE of it. But I could be wrong. $31 each.

-race bearing (and shims???) that sit INSIDE the trans housing, which the outside of the above carrier bearings will ride on

-Ultra gray or black RTV

[Kooldino]

Patience and a dremel was how we did it last time.. so you should be good :)
Awesome. I'll test fit it in my spare trans.

[TurfBurn]

the bearing part numbers come with the bearing that goes onto the diff... AND the part that goes into the other side on the tranny... so you only need 2 of that one part number... plus your axle seals, and new lock nuts.

[Kooldino]

the bearing part numbers come with the bearing that goes onto the diff... AND the part that goes into the other side on the tranny...

But does it come with the race that goes on the diff under the bearing too? Or is that all considered one "part"?

The way I see it, it should go DIFF->RACE->BEARING->RACE->TRANS

so you only need 2 of that one part number... plus your axle seals, and new lock nuts.

I have new axle seals at my house.

As for the lock nuts, are you referring to the ones that go on the 5th gear side of the input/output shafts? The ones you need an impact gun for, with the lock washers underneath?

[BlkZoomZoom]

If you are replacing the carrier you need to set the backlash, this is done with shims behind the races of carrier bearings. There is a special tool mazda makes to measure this, I'm not sure how to do it without the tool.

[Kooldino]

If you are replacing the carrier you need to set the backlash, this is done with shims behind the races of carrier bearings. There is a special tool mazda makes to measure this, I'm not sure how to do it without the tool.
Well crap on me. Can you describe this tool?

[Kooldino]

Bump - anyone know how to set backlash?

[Kooldino]

Ok, so I ordered 2x g5ro-27-350b

I'm told that if I'm using the same ring gear, that the backlash should be the same.

Only thing is - I'm using the ring gear out of my OLD trans...but it's the same style etc...

[Kooldino]

Turf - which lock nuts do i need?

[Brian MP5T]

What a pain in the BOX!

[TurfBurn]

Turf - which lock nuts do i need?

The one for the layshaft and the one for the mains shaft.. the ones that you put on to seal the 5th gear parts onto the end of the shafts... the two big silver 1-1/4" (34 mm I believe) nuts that you have to dent in to get to hold... that make sense? You have to remove them every time you take the tranny apart.

[Kooldino]

The one for the layshaft and the one for the mains shaft.. the ones that you put on to seal the 5th gear parts onto the end of the shafts... the two big silver 1-1/4" (34 mm I believe) nuts that you have to dent in to get to hold... that make sense? You have to remove them every time you take the tranny apart.
That's what I figured. Ok.

[Kooldino]

Ok, the locknuts should be here today. They're something absurd like $20 each.

Anyway, here's a continuation of the procedure. I keep getting too busy @ home to take pics, but I'll do it soon.

A buddy of mine removed the lower part of the bearing that was stuck on after we ruined said bearing. He probably used a puller tool to pull this off. What I'm referring to is the race that's under the bearing (although it's part of the bearing before you destroy it). Anyway, once you get this off, save it.

Next, you'll want to install the ring gear onto your new diff. Set it up on a press, with the ring gear side up. Make sure the holes are lined up. Press the diff down and it will eventually pop into the ring gear. Make sure to rotate the whole assembly a few times and press that too, just to make sure it's even all around.

Now you'll need to install the ARP hardware. These bolts have round flat heads, and the shafts are splined at the top, which indicates that they need to be pressed on. Set the diff up on the press ring gear up. Place one of the bolt so that the head is sticking out of the top of the ring gear. Make sure the gear is secured while you are pressing the bolt, but ensure that nothing is obstructing the bolt from going through. Repeat this 9 times.

Take a new carrier bearing out of the box. It will contain two peices...
1-A carrier bearing with a race under it that is part of the bearing.
2-a race that fits on the outside of part #1. This part goes into the trans housing itself.

Put part #2 back into the box, and label the box in a way that you'll understand which bearing the race in the box goes with. For example, The first bearing I did was the "top" bearing, so I put the outer race that went with it back into the box which I labeled "top/driver's side". I'm not sure if this is important or not, but it's usually a good idea to match machined peices, as they are often machined in sets, so it can't hurt to not mix and match the bearings and races.

Now lube the diff that you're about to install the bearing onto. Place the bearing on top, and set up the diff securely on the press. I reccomend resting the assembly on the "shoulders" of the ring gear so that you don't accidentally put pressure on the diff or the bolts that you just pressed in.

Remember that inner part of the carrier bearing I told you to save earlier? The inner race thing? Go get that. I figured out that it's critical to use this...because if you just use a large socket or something to press this bearing on, it will only go 95% on, since the socket (or whatever you use to press that fits the top lip on the bearing) will bottom out on the lip on the actual diff before it's down all the way.

Invert the part from the old diff and put it on the inside solid lip on the top of the bearing that you're pressing on. Press it. When you're done, you should notice that the bottom of the bearing is touching the diff, and that the diff itself sticks out a tiny bit past the top of the bearing that you just pressed on.

Now put the pink speedo gear on the other side (this may not apply to MSP gearboxes...not sure) and do the same thing to get the bearing on the other side.

The only thing left to do is to install the nuts (which I haven't done, because I don't know the torque spec) and install it.

Make sure you clean the hell out of your diff before you install it, and blow it off with compressed air.

[Kooldino]

CustomMSP came over tonight. We dropped my trans in 2.5 hours flat. That's gotta be some kind of record, especially since we don't have a lift or anything.

Then we took another hour taking it apart. i test fitted the quaife LSD assembly, and it didn't seem to rub on the gate or anything.

[TurfBurn]

It does... I can guarantee you that it does... we had to put a "test patch" in place... which meant we stuck a wad of gum on the gate and then rotated the assembly... sure enough found the thing cut all the way down through the gum to the metal. kept shaving the gate until it didn't show metal anymore.... It definitely needs to be done and is super easy.. so I wouldn't risk not doing it.

[Kooldino]

Hmm...if you say so. I'll try the gum trick. I assume you mean on the top of the gate?

[TurfBurn]

top and the edge toward the inside of the tranny.. but mostly the top of the gate... are you doing it with the top of the case slipped on? that will hold the LSD a little more oriented with where it will actually go. I think we did it without the LSD being held just so we could be sure.

[Kooldino]

Last night we were turning it with nothing but the passenger side of the trans case and the LSD itself.

[TurfBurn]

Dana... I've gotta run... but yes you can remove those two 10mm bolts and just do it on the grinder.

[Kooldino]

Yeah, I just took it off a couple minutes after I called and grinded it down.

I was wrong, it's one 12mm and one 10mm bolt.

So anyway, I ground it down (see pics), and reinstalled it. The gum didn't seem to move.

However, if I spun the diff slowly, it would seem to want to stop at one certain point, and I can't figure out why.

It's not the gate...because I took that completely out and it still happens. See attaced video.

[CustomMSP]

You're over-analyzing this bro :) It'll all work out hehe

[Kooldino]

There has to be something making that stop...

[Kooldino]

However, if I spun the diff slowly, it would seem to want to stop at one certain point, and I can't figure out why.

It's not the gate...because I took that completely out and it still happens. See attaced video.

Ok, I figured this out. It was because of the speedo sensor. When I pulled the sensor out, it didn't happen anymore. I guess it just takes "juice" to turn it, and maybe it has a tough spot?

[TurfBurn]

may be a hair off center somewhere.. I know my speedo gear didn't go on perfect on the MSP LSD because the gear was weird...b ut the quaife should be better... if the gum isn't getting marked when you are turning it you should be good... looks like you got the area we did.... I think we may have shaved it in an L shape... (so you did the lower leg of that already and we shaved more up the long side)... but you should be good.

[Kooldino]

quick! torque spec for 14mm bolts that hold the trans together?

[Mr. Win]

Alot!!!

[TurfBurn]

30-35 ft-lbs is what we usually use I think.. but I haven't seen anything in the manuals... do what "feels" ok when you do the torque wrench.. I can guaranteed you it is a good margin less than 50 ft-lbs.

[Mr. Win]

yea i checked the manuals and didnt see shit for him... he picked 32 as a guess so hes all good.

[Kooldino]

Yeah, I decided on 32 right before I noticed that you left me a message. Great minds think alike.

So i have good news and bad news.

The good news - The car is up and running, and it grips like hell. I still have wheelhop, but oh well. The straights are great and the turns are even better.

When the two front wheels were off the ground, I spun one forward and the other one moved forward with it.

The bad news - About 15 minutes before we were finished, I noticed a shim that goes under a race sitting off to the side of the garage floor. Anatoly had found it a little while before. Apparently, this fell out of the trans when one of the races fell out. I think it's one of the races that holds the diff in place, but I forget.

Am I screwed now? Is my tranny gonna explode in a week? I'll have it measured tomorrow, but if I had to guess, I'd say that it was 8 thou or so.

[Kooldino]

Idea: If the shim does in fact go into the driver's side of the diff, perhaps I can pull all of the 14mm bolts off the the trans that holds the two halves together IN the car and do it that way? Is that possible?

[LinuxRacr]

Oh damn, I hope it works out for you. That would be bad news!

[Focus]

Don't take a chance. Pull the tranny out and re-do it.

Idea: If the shim does in fact go into the driver's side of the diff, perhaps I can pull all of the 14mm bolts off the the trans that holds the two halves together IN the car and do it that way? Is that possible?

[CustomMSP]

I'm pretty sure that shim was behind the main gear shaft race that sits behind fifth gear. It looks to small for the diff. race.

[Kooldino]

I just had it measured. It's 22 thou. That sounds like a lot.

[TurfBurn]

22 thou is quite a bit.... a crank bearing clearance is about 1.9-2.2 thou.... thrust allowance on the crank is about 5 thou if I remember right... turbo end play is usually supposed to be under 10 thou... so how that fits out to the tranmission I don't know... but as you can see compared to other instances it is a fair amount.

[Kooldino]

22 thou is quite a bit.... a crank bearing clearance is about 1.9-2.2 thou.... thrust allowance on the crank is about 5 thou if I remember right... turbo end play is usually supposed to be under 10 thou... so how that fits out to the tranmission I don't know... but as you can see compared to other instances it is a fair amount.
Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I'm really worried now.

If we have to do this again, I might just kill a few birds with one stone.

1-replace this thing
2-change my clutch (The 6 puck is too harsh for stop and go traffic every day)
3-Make a trans cooler.

[TurfBurn]

I've been happy with the Spec Stage 3 ST3+ disc combined with my ACT pressure plate... so that's been good and is super streetable.. hasn't slipped at all yet either.... granted I"m only at about 260 at the wheels.. but that's decent...

I have the cooling system all designed up, I need to figure out if i can do one part a lot easier, but otherwise it is done... and I'll have a version of it on my car in the next few weeks once I get these last other gremlins (oil and water issues) taken care of.

Later!

Steve

[Kooldino]

Ok, I put the 22 thou shim back behind the race, but I can spin the race inside the trans housing. Is that ok? If not, how do I fix it? Could I put rtv behind it?

[TurfBurn]

yeah... the races spin... so don't worry about that... I wouldn't put the RTV behind... but when seated some of them still spin... no worries there.

[Kooldino]

Ok, phew.

Well, we got it all together in enough time to make it (late) to yesterday's meet...I have a few hundred miles of break-in to go on the clutch.

[CustomMSP]

Which clutch did you get again? Do you feel any difference in the way the tranny shifts/drives?

[Kooldino]

I got the hybrid. I think it's actually called the stage 2 hybrid, but people call it the stage 3 hybrid? Either way, it's a 6 puck on one side, and a full face on the other.

[TurfBurn]

Yeah... you have the ST2+ disc... which everyone on here calls the Stage 3 Hybrid... but it is actually a hybrid of the stage 2 and the stage 3... the actual stage 3 "hybrid" or ST3+ isn't really a hybrid at all, it is a full face solid ceramic sprung disc and is the single most expensive disc that Spec has, and is what I run... The disc alone costs more then 350 dollars... WITHOUT a pressure plate! And that one is called the ST3+ disc.

Glad the disc made it in time and so forth... I'll see if they sent the final shipping bill through to me now, and I'll get you that final total Dana.

thanks!

Steve

[CustomMSP]

I got the hybrid. I think it's actually called the stage 2 hybrid, but people call it the stage 3 hybrid? Either way, it's a 6 puck on one side, and a full face on the other.

Did you keep the old Spec P.P.?

[DiS]

Did you keep the old Spec P.P.?
Im 99% sure that Dana kept the old spec p.p. on there, as I was doing something along with dozing off (falling asleep) while Dana was putting clutch back together while trying to wake me up numerous times, lol.

[Kooldino]

Yeah, kept the PP and had it "remachined". :)

[DiS]

Yeah, kept the PP and had it "remachined". :)

yea lol "remachined" haha. My half ass job while i was dozing off and you took over.

[Kooldino]

460 miles on the new clutch. It's getting close to being done with break in!

[DiS]

Woohoo! I smell some raping soon, haha!

[Kooldino]

Update: six months later and all seems ok. I hope I don't jinx myself by writing this. :P

[DiS]

Good shit!

[BBSF2]

keep that thing alive!!
craig

[Prodigy]

hmm.. Is the quaife worth the extra money + fighting installing?
I have a chance to get one really cheap...
and I was wondering about how much $ you spent on stuff installing it(on bering/seals, etc)
Also, did all you have to do is grind down on the gate?
I just skimmed through the thread... I'll reread later when I have more time.

[Brian MP5T]

You Get What You Pay For.

The Stock MSP LSD is a Joke...

[Prodigy]

I guess so.

My clutch replacement has turned into my Exedy stage-1 clutch, fidanza 7.5lb flywheel, AWR front + rear motor mounts, and quaife LSD install.
I'm running low on cash but I'd really like to have the quality + durabilty of the quaife.
And I'd like to not get stuck in debt trying to install the LSD.

I just need to know what all I need(and need to do) for the install since it isn't really a direct drop in.

[Brian MP5T]

Wait till you have it.

[LinuxRacr]

Dana,

Give us feedback on the Quaife. How does it differ in feel from the stocker?

[Focus]

I guess so.

My clutch replacement has turned into my Exedy stage-1 clutch, fidanza 7.5lb flywheel, AWR front + rear motor mounts, and quaife LSD install.
I'm running low on cash but I'd really like to have the quality + durabilty of the quaife.
And I'd like to not get stuck in debt trying to install the LSD.

I just need to know what all I need(and need to do) for the install since it isn't really a direct drop in.

You need to grind down the shift gate a little so it will clear !

Wait till you have it.

Hmmmm. That was real helpful Brian...

[Brian MP5T]

Hmmmm. That was real helpful Brian...

As it, it's worth the wait to buy proper equipment, rather than being cheap and having to replace it once with crap and then finally with the stuff you should have got in the first place..

(Save Up Till You Can Get The Proper Parts)

[Kooldino]

hmm.. Is the quaife worth the extra money + fighting installing?

If you have enough power, then yes.

I have a chance to get one really cheap...
and I was wondering about how much $ you spent on stuff installing it(on bering/seals, etc)

Under $100 worth of stuff besides the Quaife and hardware for it.

Also, did all you have to do is grind down on the gate?

Yes.

I just skimmed through the thread... I'll reread later when I have more time.

Read every word before you do yours.

[Kooldino]

I'm running low on cash but I'd really like to have the quality + durabilty of the quaife.

I've never heard of a Quaife failing. And if they ever do, you'll get a new one. They have a lifetime warranty.

And I'd like to not get stuck in debt trying to install the LSD.

It won't cost you any more to install this LSD as it would an MSP LSD.

I just need to know what all I need(and need to do) for the install since it isn't really a direct drop in.

Like I said, read this thread. I wrote a lot of step by steps in here.

[Kooldino]

Dana,

Give us feedback on the Quaife. How does it differ in feel from the stocker?

Well, my stocker was an open diff, don't forget. It's a thousand times better than that.

It definitely grips better than the MSP diff as well, but it's hard for me to make a direct comparison on it since I've never driven an MSP that had as much power as my own car.

I have to say though, when I constantly read these threads about the MSP diffs breaking, it's nice to have the peice of mind with my Quaife.

[Prodigy]

I got the QUAIFE limited-slip differential today.
It came out of Chuck Hemmingson's #19 world challenge protege.
It has upgraded ramps and was used in one race only.

http://i13.tinypic.com/2vrsft4.jpg

So, as far I know I have to purchase the following items for install :
-(1) speedo gear ($10)
-(2) axel seals($20)
-(1) bolt kit (http://www.awrracing.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=272) ($190)
-shims?

[Prodigy]

Alright - I finally have those damn rivets out + have the ring gear and bearings pressed on.

One quick question - Does anybody know where the second stainless steel ball goes?
I know one goes in one of the holes with the yellow spring.

But there's an identical one that I found the the remaining transmission fluid after I removed the gears that I have no idea where it goes.

[Prodigy]

bump

[Kooldino]

Since I answered this one for you via PM, can you go ahead and post the answer + pic? :)

[Prodigy]

Since I answered this one for you via PM, can you go ahead and post the answer + pic? :)

"It goes on the reverse gear mechanism. Sits between that pie shaped peice with the long grooves in it, and whatever piece is closest to that. You'll see what i mean."
-Kooldino


The #2 ball goes here!

http://i11.tinypic.com/43hocg8.jpg

[TurfBurn]

Dana... that is NOT the reverse mechanism... that is the main shift linkage... that is where I told Prodigy it goes. Where you told him it goes (the reverse mechanism) is where the one in my instructions goes where you are suppose to remove it prior to taking the trans apart... just wanted to clarify that before someone goes thinking the above picture is part of reverse.

[Kooldino]

Dana... that is NOT the reverse mechanism... that is the main shift linkage... that is where I told Prodigy it goes. Where you told him it goes (the reverse mechanism) is where the one in my instructions goes where you are suppose to remove it prior to taking the trans apart... just wanted to clarify that before someone goes thinking the above picture is part of reverse.

I didn't think the above pic was part of reverse, I was going off of memory, and couldn't find a picture to refer to (he didn't send me a photo when he asked me). I thought that the peice was on the reverse shaft, but again, I didn't have a picture to go on, so I was going off of memory. I haven't put the ball in that location in a year and a half, so please excuse the slight inaccuracy.

Whatever the case, it went in the peice that I described with the "long grooves" in it. Obviously the other ball can't go in until the trans casing is assembled.

Reasons like this is why I thought it would be a good idea to start the Transmission Internal Picture thread, (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123653483) so we have a collective place to look at pictures for reference, rather than racking your brain recalling where tiny parts go to answer someone's question. Post some good pictures in there, eh?

:)

[TurfBurn]

Hey at least you were helping the man :). The grooved receiver may be on the same shaft as 5th gear and some of the reverse mechanisms... just isn't in/a part of the reverse mechanism. I think Prodigy was a little confused with what you told him, and then he told it to me and I got even more confused LOL. Now everyone is good.

Good idea on the thread for trans pics... I'll have to find all the piles I have sometime and put them in there...

[Maxx Mazda]

Will the ARP ring gear bolts work with the stock LSD/Ring Gear?

[Prodigy]

Yes.. They're hella expensive though.
Did you get a LSD with no ring gear?

[Maxx Mazda]

No I broke my ring gear, diff itself is fine. Said fuck it and ordered a new lsd assembly altogether. I'll put the diff up for sale here tonight.

[Prodigy]

Sucks for whoever gets to drill out the stock rivet things + buy the ARP hardware. =)
Be sure to mention to the buyer : They might have to grind down part of the h-pattern on the reverse lockout mechanism for clearance.

[Maxx Mazda]

The rivets and ring gear were already removed, the welds ground down (from where the LSD was welded) and the diff re balanced to account for all of that. Grinding down the interlock mechanisim isn't a big deal at all.

[Maxx Mazda]

Hey Prodigy didn't you come to Calgary one time?

[laracroft]

So does anyone know the best difference between having the LSD welded (not shut - just enforced) and buying a Quaife? I know that the Quaife is a no brainer as far as reliability but money wise, its hella expensive and seems to be more work to install.

[Prodigy]

Hey Prodigy didn't you come to Calgary one time?
Yep... I usually go up there every winter break to go snowboarding.



So does anyone know the best difference between having the LSD welded (not shut - just enforced) and buying a Quaife? I know that the Quaife is a no brainer as far as reliability but money wise, its hella expensive and seems to be more work to install.
Unless you're serious about racing autox, open-tracking, whatever... or have plans to get over 300whp stick with the welded msp LSD.

The Quaife doesn't take that much effort to install (unless you have to drill out the rivets).