Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement

[niv]

Ok, I know there is one for the fronts. I’ve searched for one for the backs and only found bits and pieces of info and a couple pictures that were helpful, but nothing that I would call a “how-to”. I thought it would be nice to put together a rear-disc how to. I believe the msp discs are slightly different so this is for the pro5 disc definately and anyone else who has the same rear disc set up.<o></o>

<o></o>The service manual describes a slightly diff way to do it… and had we the manual at the time we might have done it that way. The service manual describes a lock bolt that allows the caliper assembly to swing open without taking the whole assembly off. We just took the whole assembly off - which worked well b/c we were only using a jack and jack stands.. so it made maneuvering a bit easier for us. I suppose when I have to do my rear pads, I’ll try to do it the SM way and use that lock bolt, but for now, here’s what we did.<o></o>

<o></o>Here it is.<o></o>

<o></o>Tools Needed:

http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/1.tools.jpg<o></o>http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8976/img0017mediumsmalldu3.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0017mediumsmalldu3.jpg)

<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]-->4mm allen wrench
o<!--[endif]-->14mm box wrench<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->14mm ratchet<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Couple of slot screwdrivers<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Red thread-locker<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Rubber mallet<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Work light<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Jack stands<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]-->o<!--[endif]-->Jack<o></o>
<o></o>
Special Notes: Specs from Service Manual:

Here's what the Service Manual says:
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/Disc%20Pad.rear.Replacement.jpg
<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]-->1.When a wheel is removed, tighten it to 89—117 N·m {9.0—12.0 kgf·m, 65.1—86.7 ft·lbf}.<o></o>

<!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]-->2.Inspect the parking brake stroke by pulling the parking brake lever with a force of 98 N {10 kgf, 22 lbf}.<o></o>
<!--[if !supportLists]--> o<!--[endif]-->Stroke5—7 notches<o></o>

<o></o>Our Proceedure:

Step 1:<o></o>
Loosen lug nuts and jack up rear of car. Use jack stands on both sides.

Step 2:<o></o>
Take wheels off. (lolz - a pic for fun)
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/2.remove.wheels.jpg<o></o>
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8472/img0002mediumsmallbk5.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0002mediumsmallbk5.jpg)
<o></o>
Step 3:<o></o>
Remove clip holding brake line in place (not necessary, but makes your life a whole lot easier with extra room to move the caliper when it is loose). Just a screw driver to tap the clip out is fine, but be very careful not to hit the brake line.
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/overall.rn.jpg<o></o>http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/465/img0004mediumsmallsc9.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0004mediumsmallsc9.jpg)
<o> http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/remove.line.clip.jpg</o>http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/6972/img0009mediumsmallcs9.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0009mediumsmallcs9.jpg)

Step 4:<o></o>
Remove E-brake clip and unhook from holder. To do this you have to pull the e-brake cable towards the hook to loosen the tension needed to unhook the T from the U-hooks.
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/p-brake.b4.jpg<o></o>http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3326/img0011mediumsmallen7.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0011mediumsmallen7.jpg)
<o> http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/p-brake.after.jpg</o>http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8537/img0012mediumsmallmg5.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0012mediumsmallmg5.jpg)

Step 5: <o></o>
Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper assembly in place. These are on pretty good. And we found it easier to use the 14mm box wrench and tap it with the rubber mallet till loose. We noticed that the bolt sounds like it’s screaming just as the thread locker lets loose.

http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/bolt%20to%20remove.jpghttp://img154.imageshack.us/img154/3803/8kw8.th.jpg (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=8kw8.jpg)
<o></o>http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/2988/7wl9.th.jpg (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=7wl9.jpg)
<o>http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/2nd%20bolt.remove.jpg</o>http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7828/img0016mediumcj9.th.jpg (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0016mediumcj9.jpg)

http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/undo.bolt.jpg
Step 6:<o>
</o>Loosen the bolt with the copper washer that covers the allen key adjuster. (We did this after we had the assembly off, I figure it would have been easier with it still attached)

http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/bolt.to.undo.jpghttp://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7460/img0022mediumnn1.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0022mediumnn1.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/3861/img0023mediumoz6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0023mediumoz6.jpg)
<o></o>http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/5894/img0025mediumup8.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0025mediumup8.jpg)
<o></o>http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/bolt.w.copperwasher.on%20adjuster.jpg

Step 7:<o></o>
Insert allen key into the adjustment gear allen key slot and turn counterclockwise to retract piston. SM says to turn until it stops. (you will have to re-adjust this later to make sure that your brakes are working properly – e-brake as well)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7129/img0027mediumgw3.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0027mediumgw3.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9757/img0028mediumwo4.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0028mediumwo4.jpg)
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/allenkey.in.jpg
<o></o>http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/allen.adjuster.w.piston.arrow.jpg
Step 8: <o></o>
Remove old brake pads. They simply slide out – towards the center. (they are held in place by bracket/clips) and then look at your old pads...

they should not even look as bad as this!!! (the owner of these pads has been "talked to" lolz)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2179/img0019mediumak8.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0019mediumak8.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/3075/img0018mediumym6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0018mediumym6.jpg)
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/extremely.bad.jpg
Also, remove the metal shims on the old pads themselves and transfer over to the new pads. These shims pop off pretty easy – a screw driver should pop them off pretty easily
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/shim.off.old.jpg<o></o>
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4123/img0020mediumjx2.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0020mediumjx2.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6011/img0021mediumpf8.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0021mediumpf8.jpg)
<o>http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/new.shim.jpg

</o>Step 9:<o></o>
Install new pads. For us this took a little bit of jiggling and aligning to get them in.
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/sliding.new.pads.in.jpg<o></o>http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/3996/img0029mediumpg2.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0029mediumpg2.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2148/img0030mediumch1.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0030mediumch1.jpg)
<o> http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/new.pads.in.jpg</o>http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4405/img0031mediumkj1.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0031mediumkj1.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2899/img0032mediumsk6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0032mediumsk6.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2808/img0033mediumts4.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0033mediumts4.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/924/img0034mediumgz6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0034mediumgz6.jpg)

Step 10:<o></o>
Put the caliper assembly back on the rotor. Use some thread-locker on the two bolts used to attach assembly.
http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed/rear.disc.howto/red.thread.locker.jpg<o></o>http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9811/img0035mediumxl7.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0035mediumxl7.jpg)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1065/img0036mediummt2.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0036mediummt2.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/8004/img0039mediumnz6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0039mediumnz6.jpg)
Step 11:<o></o>
Re-assemble the e-brake cable and re-attach the clips. The lines can be finicky so make sure you have them lined up properly so the metal is seated right in the holders – this will make putting the clip in a lot easier.<o></o>

<o></o>Step 12: <o></o>
I’m not sure what would be the easiest way to do the next step: Adjusting the allen key gear– thereby adjusting the piston on the caliper to be in a good/proper position to align the pads to a good distance. We put the wheels back on and since the car was jacked up, adjusted from underneath and behind. This allowed us to rotate the wheels to feel how much resistance there was from the pads. It ended up that we tightened the adjuster fully (Clockwise) so the wheels would not move and then backed off by about ¼ turn.(counterclockwise) (SM says 1/3 turn) That adjustment allows the e-brake to be fully engaged at about 5 or 6 clicks up. (See Special note #2)



Hope that helps!
<o>
</o>

[JCell]

great how to, thanks bro (thumb)

[Kagymp5]

great work

[Roywhitep5]

ouch! down to the backplates

[niv]

heh. yah i know. so bad.

Anyhow, could the mods move this to the howto section plz?

[L8R]

i love you dude. i was waiting for a how-to for the rear setup

peace

[niv]

thx for the kind words.


this thread still here? what is it, a long weekend or something?? j/k ;)

[Bumble G]

good write up....

you forgot the most important part --> LUBRICATION.

Use a good quality brake grease. preferably a silicone based one.

DO NOT USE ANTISEASE neithere the silver nor the copper one.

you need to lubricate the 2 caliper pins/sliders/bolts

you also need to lubricate the guide plates on the side that contacts the brake pads.

and finaly it's a good idea to place some lube on the back of the pad that faces the piston.

[niv]

Great! Thanx for adding that info - especially about the anti-seize.

One wouldn't know about that stuff just looking at the SM. All that it showed was some lube on the lock bolt and the btw the shims and the pads.

cheers.

[jb1knobe]

beeeautiful!

[Wes V]

I just want to say thanks for posting this!

I couldn't figure out how to retract the piston.

Wes Vann

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

great addition to my front pad/rotor change how to, good job.

[TStar]

that's a worthy howto

[DeadAir]

Great write-up, but let me adda couple of things:
1- Be careful with the pist adjustment gear. It's small and falls out easily if you take the whole caliper off.

2- Be patient. I chewed the fVck out of the capped bolt that holds the lower part of the pad carrier together. Fortunately, the caliper is easy to take off (as demonstrated in the write-up :))

Thanks Niv!

[C.A.R.T.Fan]

What if you pop out the piston how do you get it back in??? Please help

[Kansei]

hmm my rear rotors are really stuck on there good. the front ones weren't too bad to take off.

[CHICO2003]

Both of the how-tos I found on here seem to only address replacing the pads. Since I've never done brakes before and would like to replace my rotors while I'm at it, is it just a matter of taking the old off and sliding the new ones on?

[Kansei]

Both of the how-tos I found on here seem to only address replacing the pads. Since I've never done brakes before and would like to replace my rotors while I'm at it, is it just a matter of taking the old off and sliding the new ones on?

Simply put, yes. once the calipers are out of the way the rotors just come off, of course assuming they aren't rusted on (which they likely are). I still haven't managed to get my rear rotors off.

[ronin12]

Simply put, yes. once the calipers are out of the way the rotors just come off, of course assuming they aren't rusted on (which they likely are). I still haven't managed to get my rear rotors off.
use a BIG hammer (2thumbs)

[CHICO2003]

I wailed away at them for what seemed like... well, probably about 10 minutes to be honest. I tried everything from a regular hammer to a freakin sledge hammer. While I wasn't swinging away like Merel, I was definitely giving it a good wack. (years of practice) nada.... just a whole lot of nothing. Because my car was on jack stands, it got to the point where I was afraid I was going to hit my car right off the jack stands. (though, in hindsight, I suppose that's pretty unlikely) Regardless, I wussed out and settled for the pads. The rotors weren't even necessary anyway... I'll probably give em another shot when I put my winter wheels on this weekend. If anyone's got any advice (besides hit the shit out of them, by all means, let me know)

[02Protege'5]

Got an oxegen assetaline (sp?) torch?

Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course

[ronin12]

Got an oxegen assetaline (sp?) torch?

Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course
I got one of those little plumbing torches if you need to borrow, I work in wally world. (lol2)

[SIBalla23]

If you do get them off, buy a bottle of antiseize and put it on the hub. It will stop your rotors from sticking.

[CHICO2003]

plumbing torch eh? so heating it would would help huh? hmm.. I definitely don't have a blow torch so I suppose I may have to take you up on that. In the meantime, I tried to buy antiseize spray at autozone (i don't even know why mazda put lug nuts on our wheels... but anyway) guys there were clueless. never heard of the stuff. does it go by a different name?

[SIBalla23]

Don't know if its called something else. But just go to any autmotive store and ask do you sell a product that prevents rust and works well on metals.

[ronin12]

Don't know if its called something else. But just go to any autmotive store and ask do you sell a product that prevents rust and works well on metals.

Permatex anti-seize lubricant part #133k, it should be a silver like bottle, you could try napa auto parts :)

[SIBalla23]

There you go, thats the stuff. Good hook up with the name and part number.

[CHICO2003]

Nice! Thanks dude...

[ronin12]

There you go, thats the stuff. Good hook up with the name and part number.

not a problem, used to be a semi-mechanic, got bunch of stuff kicking around, I also used it on the threads of spark plugs actually can use it with alot of things, anyways glad I could help, if you need the torch let me know. I'll be around friday and saturday, but going up to F1 boston on sunday

[genius]

Ummm guys... My rear brakes did NOT look anything like the pictures. I did not have a piston rewinder behind a fake bolt. All I had was just the one bolt next to the one you guys claimed was a cap.

Instead my pistons had the indents on the face that have to be screwed in by a special brake rewinder tool. Forunately I have one for my 99 Jetta and it fit my calipers as well.

Am I the only one?

I wound up not being able to replace the pads because car quest sold me the wrong pads. They were supposed to be part #RD332 but their computer showed RD 679 or something llike that. They had to special order my pads and said that they were a bastard size that is normally not stocked. WTF?

[Mr. Win]

ummm i need pics... this is odd.

[TheMAN]

this how-to is specific to the ES/P5/MP3 and Japanese/Australian spec variants with rear disc brakes.... this how-to does NOT apply to the MSP and european versions, the pistons on those cars are retracted DIRECTLY from the piston themselves... thus also WAY easier to work on them!

3rd gen RX-7 rear brake pads will fit the MSP rears, they are the same size but friction material may differ if the pad manufacturer chose to make the pads "different" in their catalog

[Kansei]

ummm i need pics... this is odd.

Agreed I want pics of this potentially slightly better setup.

[TheMAN]

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14169&stc=1
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14170&stc=1

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21335

[genius]

Thanks for clearing that up, I didn't realize that and here I was following your directions! I still managed though. Your first link worked. I am posting the picture from that site to indicated the pistons.

But if you see the indent I am pointing at, there is another one just like it on the opposite side. You have to take this tool (http://www.premiertools.co.uk/cat156_1.htm) that has a round disk on the end of a shaft with two nipples on it and while applying pressure to the piston, twist CW. I can't remember if the MSP has a piston boot but if it does, just make sure that the boot is free from the piston by running a screw driver around the lip of the rubber.

But whatever you do, do not try to compress the piston with a C-Clamp, it simply won't work. It is threaded and the reason for that is so that when you set the park brake, it "winds" out until it hits the disc. I learned that the hard way when I first ran into these on my Jetta. I was cranking on that clamp for almost an hour!

[Protege52003]

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14169&stc=1
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14170&stc=1

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21335

man, those calipers look so nice clean!

they just need a fresh coat of desired color on them.......

[hyperboarder]

Great write up, did mine tonight, no problems.

[Kansei]

Great write up, did mine tonight, no problems.

Rotors and pads or just pads? No trouble getting the rear rotors to break free?

[hyperboarder]

Both Rotors and Pads, no problems at all on the back. The front rotors needed some coaxing in the form of a mallet, but after about 3 hits, slid right off. The only time consuming issue I had was one allen screw on the front not letting go. Everything else went very smoothly. Have you tried PB Blaster yet?

[Protege52003]

i had to beat the piss out of all four rotors to get them off when i put my brembo's on a bunch of months ago......just used a hammer........

[JCell]

did it 2 nights ago on an mp3, no problems!

[Kansei]

did it 2 nights ago on an mp3, no problems!

You and your sunshine state... I'm halfway through doing my rears and I had to get the rotor GLOWING and then bash at it with a 16oz hammer for about 15 minutes (exhausting) before I got it to budge.

I'm ready to put the wheel back on on that side and then off to do the other. With my luck I'll run out of propane for the torch. I don't have a spare tank at school :P

[Boston5761]

Question.....I plan on changing my brakes soon and i dont want to replace my rotors yet. What is the usual life of these rotors? I have 43k miles of mostly highway miles.

[rednecks_r_us]

I have over 92K on my stock rotors and only on my second set of brake pads.

I got 72K out of my rear pads.

[yashart_mp3]

Nothing but little Red X's..... i need pics! I plan on replacing my rear rotors & pads soon....

[RenzoMSP]

I really need help with the rear. The front were easy. Now im stuck on the rear and i cant get the piston to retract. Any help please. Im kinda limited on tools.

[Kansei]

I really need help with the rear. The front were easy. Now im stuck on the rear and i cant get the piston to retract. Any help please. Im kinda limited on tools.

IIRC on the MSP the rear brake pistons rotate to retract. I don't have an MSP so I don't really know any more than that. I know on mine it is just a bolt covering a gear thing that you put an allen wrench in to adjust the piston. Is there something you can gently twist the piston with?

[Roywhitep5]

msp has different rear calipers than us. i guess you need one of those tools that screws the piston in like with hondas

[RenzoMSP]

Well i finished everything. The rear were a bitch. I went to pep boys and picked up one of these.http://www.premiertools.co.uk/usrimage/h335.jpg

[Kansei]

Well i finished everything. The rear were a bitch. I went to pep boys and picked up one of these.http://www.premiertools.co.uk/usrimage/h335.jpg

?? how does that thing work? Does it screw the piston in?

[RenzoMSP]

Basically it has all those side and you match up the best side with the piston and turn it clockwise and the piston will retract. Oh also it just fits on a ratchet.

[TheMAN]

I wish you read the top of the previous page

[MakeMeGoFast]

up shits creek with out a paddle right now. Heres the problem. Changed the Rear left pads no problem once I Read this. The othr side was the problem, when I took off the bolt to get to the ajustement screw,.....Rust..... the screw was all rust. Yeah bad. so I sprayed it with WD40. long story short. The hex srew is stripped and Im pissed, Gonna need I new caliper Im thinkin. cant find anywhere to buy one though, what sucks is that I wanted to upgrade my brakes but I dont have the 850 for the protegegarage kit well i do but I cant spare the cash right now and now Im gonna spend more on something Im gonna be replacing anyway. Well any way anyone have extra lying around LOL. they would want to sell. or I will end up paying out the ass for dealership. Oh yeah its a 02 Protege ES.

[markmdz89hatch]

good write up....

you forgot the most important part --> LUBRICATION.

Use a good quality brake grease. preferably a silicone based one.

DO NOT USE ANTISEASE neithere the silver nor the copper one.

you need to lubricate the 2 caliper pins/sliders/bolts

you also need to lubricate the guide plates on the side that contacts the brake pads.

and finaly it's a good idea to place some lube on the back of the pad that faces the piston.


just did the rear wheel bearings, and pads (just b/c I was already there and what the hell, why not.), then came in and found this thread on adjusting the caliper.

Great, now I need to drag my ass outside tomorrow morning and readjust the brakes the right way.

BTW, it's easy enough to just reach under the car with the 14mm ratchet, and I actually used a T20 torx screwdriver on the adjuster and it worked great.

...now, although I didn't use Anti-Seize on this car (only because I had brake grease handy) I have been using it on my '89 Accord for the past 10 years worth of brake work along with all other work. I always use the silver anti-seize on everything. Slide bolt for calipers, bolts for lower front fork (on the front of the accord), basically anything. Anyway, I bring this up only because I don't see why I should not use it. Can someone enlighten me? Just b/c I have done it so long, and had no trouble does not mean I wasn't doing something wrong. If I should not use this for some reason, I need to know as the Honda is about to undergo a full teardown and rebuild from the ground up, literally with about 18K worth of mods to it.

One more thing... Don't our rotors have two threaded holes in them on the tophat? If so, why not walk the rotor off with two bolts that match that tapped hole? Just put a bolt in each hole and crank away until the rotor pops free.

[TheMAN]

because the shit will dry up into crap over time and seizes the shit worse than without grease

[markmdz89hatch]

I'd say that's a good reason. Although I never has that trouble, the fact that you're telling me it can happen is reason enough to stop. I'll be using the right stuff now. Thanks for the tip.

[tunersteve]

Now I just went through this, and my only question is this - is bleeding of the brakes required? I know when my dad and I did the fronts, we bled the lines once we reassembled everything. Is it required?

[brouhaha]

I can't see the pictures anymore. I was hoping to change my brake pads this weekend. Any help?

[DeanSweet]

is bleeding of the brakes required?
If all you did was replace the pads, then No, the fliud does not need bleed... there are certain circumstances that this is required but 99% of the time you are good to go after pumping the brakes after pad install.

[BRICE]

Can't see the pics!!! (ughdance)

[smo0f]

anyone have instructions for the MSPs?

[niv]

hmmm pics are down. oops.. i'll fix that this weekend.

[niv]

ahhh found the pix. re-uploaded... hope that helps.

[J0hnnyG123]

this is on a 2002 protege es with rear disk brakes. the allen key in the back of the caliper is turning but is not retracting. if we turn it clockwise the piston will come out further, but turning it counter clock wise it stops about a cm. shorter than it needs to be. the allen bolt still turns but the piston wont retract any more. any ideas?

[Kansei]

Make sure the allen bolt isn't falling out. You can actually pull the thing out, it's just a gear thing. Push in on the allen bolt to make sure it is engaging.

Edit: WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D (first)(first)(first)

[J0hnnyG123]

thanks for the welcome. this is actually my cousins car. im a nissan guy myself.

anyways, the allen bolt comes out and now there is brake fluid seeping out of that hole. the allen bolt spins freely and does nothing. i tried pushing in and turing but that hasnt done anything. could the gear inside have stripped out? will it need a new caliper?

[Kansei]

If it has stripped I think it would need a new caliper.

.. soo what kind of car do you drive?

Wait when you pull the allen bolt out, the gear on that bolt isn't stripped is it?

[J0hnnyG123]

i have a 90 240sx and a 94 altima.

we ended up gettin new calipers for it and are in the proces of puttin em on right now. the right side wouldnt budge at all, probly rusted pretty bad. the car has almost 100k on it and they were original.

[Kansei]

100k kilometers I hope... 100k miles on original pads would be a world record for this car I think haha.

[J0hnnyG123]

i meant the original calipers lol. new calipers are on and the car brakes better than ever. thanks for the help.

[sys49152]

Help!

I hate for this to be my first post, but I stumbled on this thread while having difficulties installing my rear brake pads. I do however promise to contribute anything that helps my cause back to this thread :-)

I tried changing out my rear brake pads on my 2002 P5 today, but I'm having a tough time figuring out why the new pads don't leave enough room for the the caliper to slide back onto the rotor. Here's are two pictures..

This shot of the rear passenger side caliper shows how the outer pad sits too far out. It doesn't look nearly as flush as the picture on the first page of this how to after the pads were installed.

http://www.sys49152.com/rear_pad_install1.jpg

It's almost as if I need to somehow move the outer part of the caliper (the part the outer pad sits against) further out. I know that it should be completely controlled by the piston/allen key, but it feels like there needs to be some adjustment here. Is that possible?

http://www.sys49152.com/rear_pad_install2.jpg

I really want to get through this without having to slap back the old worn out pads and drive it to the local dealership. So any and all help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

And yes, I know, I *really* need to clean it all out. Canadian winters have been unkind to the 'lil p5.

[Proes2]

Help!

I hate for this to be my first post, but I stumbled on this thread while having difficulties installing my rear brake pads. I do however promise to contribute anything that helps my cause back to this thread :-)

I tried changing out my rear brake pads on my 2002 P5 today, but I'm having a tough time figuring out why the new pads don't leave enough room for the the caliper to slide back onto the rotor. Here's are two pictures..

This shot of the rear passenger side caliper shows how the outer pad sits too far out. It doesn't look nearly as flush as the picture on the first page of this how to after the pads were installed.


It's almost as if I need to somehow move the outer part of the caliper (the part the outer pad sits against) further out. I know that it should be completely controlled by the piston/allen key, but it feels like there needs to be some adjustment here. Is that possible?


I really want to get through this without having to slap back the old worn out pads and drive it to the local dealership. So any and all help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

And yes, I know, I *really* need to clean it all out. Canadian winters have been unkind to the 'lil p5.

I'm having the exact same problem. My trouble is with the drivers side rear. I was able to replace the passenger side pads and rotor. On the passenger side the carrier came right off the caliper with little effort and was easy to move back and forth. The driver's side however won't budge. The piston is fully compressed. Just like sys49152 it seems that the caliper needs to go further out towards the carrier, the carrier and caliper don't move though.

Heres a little tip for removing the rotors. Use the t-shaped screw that holds down your factory jack, and screw it into the hole on your rotor. The rotor will pop right off. I don't know how we'll(it's my gf's ES) remove the rotors we're replacing them with though, no holes. :)

[Kansei]

Welcome to the forums both of you guys! I really wish I could be of help, but I didn't come across that when I did my pads/rotors.

How much do you need to be able to move the outer pad to get the rotor in? are we talking 1mm or like a full centimeter?

[sys49152]

Welcome to the forums both of you guys!

Thanks!


How much do you need to be able to move the outer pad to get the rotor in? are we talking 1mm or like a full centimeter?

Nearly a full centimeter. I actually broke down and put it back together with all the old parts. I'm going to take it to a local shop, beg them to tell me how they manage to get the pads/rotor back in, and hopefully post any helpful info back to this thread. I'm guessing it's highly unlikely that they'll tell me much, but it's worth a shot.

[Kansei]

you're sure the piston is retracted all the way... and that the rotor is all the way on? There could be some rust/debris on the wheel hub preventing the rotor from going on all the way, though I can't see that causing it to stick out a full centimeter.

[sys49152]

you're sure the piston is retracted all the way... and that the rotor is all the way on? There could be some rust/debris on the wheel hub preventing the rotor from going on all the way, though I can't see that causing it to stick out a full centimeter.

I actually tried to push the rotor into the caliper after installing the pads but prior to mounting it back on, just to see how short I was on space. Even then, there was no way at all that it would fit. Not even close.. probably by at least half a centimeter.

I'm hoping I can get it fixed tomorrow and find out exactly what happened. I'm changing my rear pads twice as fast as the front, so I'm hoping that the TBS for the p5 rear caliper applies to me. I'll talk to my local dealership.

[sys49152]

So as I promised, I'm posting back to the thread..

I took it into the local shop with the parts I bought, and asked the mechanic to let me know why there just isn't enough space for the rotor to fit after installing the pads even with the piston retracted all the way back. He said that the caliper (both sides) was seized. I mentioned that I had no problems retracting the piston but that there just wasn't enough space even with the caliber removed. He said it was seized so that it couldn't slide back/forth even though the piston would retract. It sounds like (using my previous picture as a reference) he somehow managed to slightly pry apart the parts holding the inner and outer pads?! I didn't think that was possible.

Anyhow, if I get a chance to pull the wheel off this week and really figure out what's going on, I'll try to post again with some *after installation* pics.

[Kansei]

interesting.. I didn't think you could pry that apart either. cool stuff, try and get those pics.

[Proes2]

So as I promised, I'm posting back to the thread..

I took it into the local shop with the parts I bought, and asked the mechanic to let me know why there just isn't enough space for the rotor to fit after installing the pads even with the piston retracted all the way back. He said that the caliper (both sides) was seized. I mentioned that I had no problems retracting the piston but that there just wasn't enough space even with the caliber removed. He said it was seized so that it couldn't slide back/forth even though the piston would retract. It sounds like (using my previous picture as a reference) he somehow managed to slightly pry apart the parts holding the inner and outer pads?! I didn't think that was possible.

Anyhow, if I get a chance to pull the wheel off this week and really figure out what's going on, I'll try to post again with some *after installation* pics.

Our guide pins have seized too. Well one of them anyways. Here are some pics of the rusted mofo:

http://members.cox.net/thedevilissix/guide%20pin1.jpg

http://members.cox.net/thedevilissix/guide%20pin2.jpg

http://members.cox.net/thedevilissix/Gude%20Pin3.jpg

The semi-loaded caliper was finally ordered from NAPA last week.
While researching the problem I found a few threads where people were having this exact problem. In one a TSB was mentioned but I couldn't find any info on it. Anyone know if there was one?

[wildo]

Thank you for the writeup! I just finished my rear brakes and it was a piece of cake! That is, after finding out that there is a mistry bolt you have to take out to pull the piston back in... "So that's why the c-clamp wasn't working..." Thanks again!

[Brian48216]

To those of us that are trying to follow the service manual's instructions,
Just making sure, but the lock bolt that's described is hidden behind a piece of plastic right?

Do I just yank that plastic cover straight off?

Top notch write up otherwise!!!!

[wildo]

To those of us that are trying to follow the service manual's instructions,
Just making sure, but the lock bolt that's described is hidden behind a piece of plastic right?

I am not sure what you are referring to as a "lock bolt" but if you are referring to the bolt that you need to lossen to pull in the piston, then it is behind another bolt. The bolt looks like it just holds the ebreak mount in place, but sure enough- if you take it out, you will find an allen head bolt underneath. Hope this helps!

[Brian48216]

I am not sure what you are referring to as a "lock bolt" but if you are referring to the bolt that you need to lossen to pull in the piston, then it is behind another bolt. The bolt looks like it just holds the ebreak mount in place, but sure enough- if you take it out, you will find an allen head bolt underneath. Hope this helps!

Naw, the lock bolt is supposed to be the bolt that allows the whole assembly to swing out. If you check the service manual, it's listed as a part to remove during replacement of the rear pads. I just don't know what to do about that plastic covering as I'd rather not go about breaking things =\

[Gabio]

Did mine this weekend. I didn't remove the complete assambly. As you just need to unbold the 10mm bold behind the ruber covering, which is the top sleeve. This way the top caliper will just swing out. The drive's side had a sleeve seized. That's why the pads on one side was at 75% and the other was at 5%...
The way to got is to heat it with a torch and hit the caliper so it slide out. Of course the bushing will burn in the process and you need an other one, 4$ i think. This if the sleeve doesn't break up, then you'll need a new caliper for good.

[Leika]

thanks! this was so much help!

[Leika]

actually the previous mechanic didn't know about the allen key, so he was using a hammer on the piston. not cool. (tis why it was getting super hot, and was squiking at times)
i might need a whole new caliper, but for now we'll have to see.

[promike]

thanks for the how to on the rear brakes. i appreciate the help

[amsgator]

there is no adjustment for the front brakes like there is for the rear is there? w/ the piston?

[meGrimlock]

there is no socket to turn to retract the piston, if that is what you are asking. you just need a c-clamp or some other type of tool that can push the piston back. be sure to use the old pad or a piece of wood or something to put between the clamp and the piston so you dont inadvertantly damage the piston.

dont forget to watch the brake fluid as you push the piston back. this may force some brake fluid out of the resevoir as it did to mine. i loosened the cap & just placed some rags around the cap so it didnt squirt onto any paint or anything. press the pedal a few times to get the brake fluid going again and to get the piston back in position. the pedal feel should be a tiny bit firmer

[clicknext]

Question... if I'm only changing the pads, do I need to do most of that stuff? Can I just:

1. take off wheels
2. open the caliper with allen key
3. undo spring clips
4. take out pads
5. retract piston
6. insert new pads
7. put everything back together?

exactly like with the fronts for just pads?

[meGrimlock]

unhooking the brakeline does make life easier & you only need to unscrew 1 bolt to open the caliper up this way you dont need to remove the whole thing. checkout the shop manual to see which one (and also see what needs to be lubricated). the rest should be cake.


Question... if I'm only changing the pads, do I need to do most of that stuff? Can I just:

1. take off wheels
2. open the caliper with allen key
3. undo spring clips
4. take out pads
5. retract piston
6. insert new pads
7. put everything back together?

exactly like with the fronts for just pads?

[Lewis7789]

Just "finished" the rear brake pads on my '02 P5. Man, what a pain. I need to order new calipers. The drivers side seemed alright until I tried to adjust the 4mm allen bolt for the piston, it wouldn't back out far enough to let the wheel spin freely of the caliper, enough where I could really push it, but not freely. So I did the passenger side and that piston adjustment screw is stripped out, it wouldn't back out at all. So with the new pads, I had to wiggle the caliper back onto the rotor with a lot of muscle. The car will coast just fine, the caliper isn't trying to lock the rotors, thank god. But I'll still order some new calipers so I can adjust them correctly.

Just a heads up if anyone plans on replacing the rear pads and comes across the 4mm allen adjustment bolts being stripped. Same some extra cash for new calipers just in case.

Now for the drive home with a Dairy Queen stop as my reward. Haha.

[RYuReady]

I've read through all of the posts regarding the rear pads, but I still had a question. I have an MSP and I know that the rear piston will need to be screwed clockwise to retract the piston. My question is, do you have to screw the piston on tight until it touches the rotor, and unscrew the piston 1/4 - 1/3 turn like the P5/MP3/Protege (Step 12 of How-To) or is this unnecessary for the MSP?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Awesome How-To!

[pr5owner]

do any of you haev a problem taking the rear discs off a protege5? i think i have to pound mine off cuz they arent budging with the calipers off

[eting_pro5]

you need to lubricate the 2 caliper pins/sliders/bolts


Where are these caliper sliders?

[meGrimlock]

do any of you haev a problem taking the rear discs off a protege5? i think i have to pound mine off cuz they arent budging with the calipers off
do you mean the rotors?

the bolt that holds your scissor jack in the boot. use that to screw into the hole in the hub of the rotor. with enough screwing (idhitit) clockwise, it should make a "ping" noise and pop the rotor loose.

[eting_pro5]

There is pretty much zero clearance between my new pads and new rotor when I back the piston off as much as possible. After resetting the piston (backing it off 1/3 of a turn), pumping the brake pedal (with engine on) and then trying to rotate the hub/rotor by hand, there is a decent amount of drag. Is this normal?

[meGrimlock]

There is pretty much zero clearance between my new pads and new rotor when I back the piston off as much as possible. After resetting the piston (backing it off 1/3 of a turn), pumping the brake pedal (with engine on) and then trying to rotate the hub/rotor by hand, there is a decent amount of drag. Is this normal?
i remember there was a bit of resistance when spinning the rotor by hand for a "test" spin. as long as you dont hit any snags, or the resistance is unbelievably stiff, you should be fine.

the real test is the slow drive around the block. (nervous) drive slow and remember to bed-in the pads according to the instructions. be ready for a slightly firmer pedal feel and be wary of strange noises or vibrations.

[clicknext]

My pads say they don't need bed-in because they're "scorched". My rotors are new too, though. Do I still need to do the bed-in?

And how do you guys find a place to do this?? There is nowhere near my place where you can safely do lots of sudden braking, and never stop.

[meGrimlock]

My pads say they don't need bed-in because they're "scorched". My rotors are new too, though. Do I still need to do the bed-in?

And how do you guys find a place to do this?? There is nowhere near my place where you can safely do lots of sudden braking, and never stop.
again, it depends on the brand's recommendations. if you live in a quiet neighborhood just do a few low speed drive bys up and down the street at first

[Scotty878]

I tried changing out my rear brake pads on my 2002 P5 today, but I'm having a tough time figuring out why the new pads don't leave enough room for the the caliper to slide back onto the rotor. Here's are two pictures..

This shot of the rear passenger side caliper shows how the outer pad sits too far out. It doesn't look nearly as flush as the picture on the first page of this how to after the pads were installed.

http://www.sys49152.com/rear_pad_install2.jpg



So I tried to do my brakes today, and found I have this same problem as sys describes here. I took everything off, did it as per the how-to and came upon the realization that with the outside pad being the way it was, there was just no room. With two new pads, it held the rotor at an angle and would not spin. I tried an old pad on the outside, and it all works just fine. everything lines up and set everything as stated.

So basically I finished two thirds of the install but am lost with what to do from here. I have two new rotors on, and two new pads on, both piston sides, and the outsides both have old pads in because they were thinner and were the only thing that seemed to fit.

And you seriously can't just get a little screw gear adjuster thing to retract the piston? I stripped one, but got everything to work with one old pad. I know I did the one brake correctly, as I was able to use the screw and retract the piston, but like I said, the one stripped. So you really need a new caliper? No replacement piece? If so that a load of crap!!

So anyway, like I said, I'm 2/3's done, one old pad in each rear caliper on the outside. The brakes feel better as is, better stopping power and firmer pedal feel, but I'd just really like to have it all done correctly. The only other thing is my e-brake is non-existent. Does not work at all. All the way up and the wheels still spin free. Should I tighten the e-brake cable inside the car or did I miss something?

Any help at this point would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks guys!

[idrift4wd]

help^ my ebrakes does not work either. help?

[meGrimlock]

quick question, did you pull out the e-brake cable from the hook to gain more access to the caliper? if so, did you rehook it back? thats the only thing i can think of right now. after ive finished, the brake handle is a little loose (didnt even hear the clicks) but after pulling it a few times it firmed up and went back to normal.

from what i understand, sys had a seized caliper that he took to the shop? worst case you'd have to get a rebuilt caliper. i didnt run into that problem, once i retracted the piston, everything fit w/o a hitch.

as far as the stripped screw adjuster, cant help you there.

[idrift4wd]

i never took it off, it seemed fine i never touched it.

its just i stripped the same screw the guy above me did and nothing works

[ScratchNSniff]

Bump...so I can find it...

[GIJana]

Is there a how-to to do the rotors too? Or is it fairly simple? (just take them off and put new ones on?)

[ESProtege02]

wow this is quite a thread! Seems like everything is common problem. I too had one of the hex screws siezed up and had to replace the caliper. I replaced both rear calipers just to be on the safe side. I put new pads in and had just enough room to slide the caliper and pads onto the rotor. It spins freely with just a lil snag. I went to bleed the brakes last night and the passenger rear line is leaking. For some reason it's not seating on the caliper and fluid just gushes out. So as soon as I get that fixed I will bleed the brakes and hopefully everything will work. keeping my fingers crossed.

[meGrimlock]

Is there a how-to to do the rotors too? Or is it fairly simple? (just take them off and put new ones on?)
yup, pretty simple once you've unbolted the calipers, the rotors are free to be removed. just use the bolt that holds your scissor jack in the boot to turn in the hole in the rotor. it might take a few hard turns but the rotor will make a "ping" noise when it comes off. recommended you take a wire brush and clean off any rust, debris. to quote the workshop manual: installation is reverse of removal. dont forget the bed-in procedure. good luck.

[GIJana]

HELP!

The rotors are so rusted on I can't get them off... there is no hole in it like you said.

Any suggestions or tips for getting it off?

[Lewis7789]

^^^ I'm not one to beat of parts with a hammer, but if your rotor is rusted on there, beat on it with a hammer. heh-heh.

I had to replace a rear rotor that was seized on there from rust and tried tapping it off with a rubber mallet and tried gently forcing it with the screw hole and neither worked. My dad handed me a sledge hammer without saying a word. One little tap with the sledge and the rotor popped right off.

[rjd86]

Got an oxegen assetaline (sp?) torch?

Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course

[rjd86]

good call.. yeah lets use oxy-acetylene on something... umm thats gonna melt it genius





Got an oxegen assetaline (sp?) torch?

Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course

[GIJana]

We ended up breaking the rotor after beating it w/ the hammer... so then we had to cut the rest of it off... it was that rusted on. We put the new pads in, there was a lot of resistance... and the ebrake didn't work... so i started to drive home, and then i got out of the car and the rotors were red!!! so now we're trying to retract the piston some more, but the allen bolt thing is almost falling out... which seems to be a common problem. Everything seems so corroded, we figure I'll need new calipers, which cost $400 at the local store.

Unless someone has any suggestions.

[Lewis7789]

Dayum! Broke the rotor with the hammer? Sorry to hear that, I thought I said just tap it. Your brakes must've been really seized on there. I had to buy new calipers for the rear too, but they were $140 a piece from Advnaced Auto Parts. $400 is way too high... Best of luck though, man. Those rear brakes are a pita.

[GIJana]

Well they're $190 each, and I'm in Canada so maybe that makes a difference?

Do you know if there's a how to on caliper replacements?

Edit:
yeah, they were REALLY seized... I'll post a pic later once I get a chance to plug my phone into the computer.

[GIJana]

Is there anything else that has to be done to adjust the e-brake, besides using the allan key? No driving in reverse and slamming on the brakes?

[clarkma5]

Just did this on my friend's 2002 Protege ES and I'd like to add my thoughts in on it. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures, but I might like to relate to you all the order that I found worked the best for me (after struggling with the left side of the car, the right side went very quickly. But then again it always works like that, doesn't it?)

1) Lift rear of car safely
2) Remove wheels
3) Unclip the brake line from the clip on the side of the suspension strut (the metal clip just slides out and the brake line slips out of its little hex-shaped holder)
4) Leave the parking brake cable alone, you don't need to remove it (and frankly, I couldn't). Use a 14mm socket or wrench to undo the bolt that covers the 4 mm hex key (as noted elsewhere in this thread, it's the flat hex head directly behind the caliper piston).
5) Use a 4mm allen to retract the caliper piston by turning it counterclockwise until you can't turn it anymore.
6) Undo the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper in and slide the caliper off the rotor, being careful to not let it hang its weight from the parking brake cable or the brake line.
7) Pop out the old pads.
8) Apply some appropriate anti-squeal grease to the backing plates of the new pads. Remove any shims from the old pads and place them on the backs of the new pads, and then place grease on the backs of the shims as well. A thin coat will do.
9) Pop the new pads into place, placing the piston-side pad in first.
10) Slide the caliper back on to the rotor and replace the two 14 mm bolts that hold it on.
11) Put wheels back on with lugs on snugly
12) Once you've done both sides, adjust the parking brake as noted here (tighten the allen key all the way and back it off 1/3rd to 1/2 of a turn, checking the parking brake for proper operation and making sure the wheels spin with the appropriate amount of drag while in the air)
13) Put 14 mm covers back over the 4mm allen keys.
14) Lower car onto ground
15) Torque lugs to appropriate spec (I used 90 ft.-lbs., personally)
16) Bed your new pads

[roenick778]

wow, i tore down the rear passenger side and took the bolt out that gives you access to the allen head screw to back out the caliper piston and there ISNT one on that side of the car. not sure hwere it is but now i need to figure out a way to still get the piston backed out. i took the bolt off the driver side and there is a allen head screw on that side of the car, can i just take that one out to put in on the side that im missing the allen head? i backed it out and it seems like its not wanting to come out any farther , im afraid to try to take it all the way out and and then be stuck with both sides not being able to back the piston out . HELP!!!!

[gus5]

You can take it out. I had to do it on mine. If you put the allen wrench in, then kind of angle it while pulling it out you pull the gear out. One of those magnet wands might work as well. Then you can put in the other side and use it to retract that caliper.

It's basically a gear with an allen head end on it.


wow, i tore down the rear passenger side and took the bolt out that gives you access to the allen head screw to back out the caliper piston and there ISNT one on that side of the car. not sure hwere it is but now i need to figure out a way to still get the piston backed out. i took the bolt off the driver side and there is a allen head screw on that side of the car, can i just take that one out to put in on the side that im missing the allen head? i backed it out and it seems like its not wanting to come out any farther , im afraid to try to take it all the way out and and then be stuck with both sides not being able to back the piston out . HELP!!!!

[roenick778]

Well i tore it down last night when it was dark and didnt see that the screw had fallen out sometime in disassembly process, so i assumed i needed a new caliper and went and bought one, and installed the new caliper and reassembled the brakes and got it back on the road. so i spent 150 dollars on a lesson on how the rear brakes work on the p5, a royal pain in the ass! unfortunaelty i cant figure out how to adjust the emergency brake since it pretty much comes all the way up, but at least the car is back togther and the brakes are working again, thanks for the post though , i learned alot just by reading all of the posts on this subject. this site is AWESOME! A great source of information

[yrro]

Hey, thanks for the awesome guide. I just finished doing the job on my wife's protege5, and I found something that could be useful to all of the people who can't get the caliper back over the rotor.

So the problem, as indicated, is a stuck caliper. There are two pins that hold the outside of the caliper on - one that has the bolt head under the plastic cap, and the other which is hidden. The second one seems to have a huge tendency to rust in place - our car had both of the rear calipers frozen this way.

However, this should *not * result in buying a new caliper. This problem is actually pretty easy to fix - it took me five-ten minutes, and I'm not particularly handy with car parts. You don't need to buy a new rubber piece, and you definitely shouldn't need a torch.

What you need to do is simply pull the two pieces apart, clean off the rust, lube it up, and put it back together. Under normal functions, the bolt that you can remove is the only thing holding the two halves of the caliper together - you can pull them apart with your hands, and they should slide freely. So you can beat on them all you want to get them apart and you shouldn't break anything.

Remove the caliper assembly from the vehicle completely.

Try to twist the two caliper parts relative to each other. On a good caliper, they should twist freely, allowing you easy access to install the pads. If they don't twist at all (likely if you are having this problem) just hit them with a rubber mallet until they start to move, then muscle them back and forth, back and forth until you've broken the rust sealing it together and it will spin around easily. At this point, you *should* be able to pull the two pieces apart, exposing the pin.

In my case, most of the pin was actually pretty clean, it just had a small ring of rust preventing it from moving.

Remove the rubber covering from that hole. You should be able to pry it gently off with a screwdriver or pocket knife, being careful not to damage it. You can get them cheap at a parts store, but there's no need to make a trip if it isn't already broken.

Then take the whole thing inside and clean it out. Wash out the inside of the gasket and dry it well. Use a wire brush or some fine steel wool and maybe some light oil to clean the rust off of the pin and the hole where it resides. Then wipe/blow them out as well as you can - you want there to be no water, residue, oil, or especially rust specs left to rub and wear on the parts. My rust came off pretty easily, and I blew it out with a can of compressed air.

Then take some good grease (the stuff everyone's been recommending you use to lube the parts - if this has been done better at your easily service intervals you wouldn't have this problem to begin with) and grease the pins, then put it all back together the way it came apart.

Congratulations, you've just rebuilt your caliper. It should work fine for years to come. The two pieces should now move smoothly against each other, and you should be able to push them close enough together to be able to install your brakes perfectly.

I hope this is useful for everyone who had the same problem as me. I wasted a whole day worrying that I had the wrong size of brake pads, and then once I came on here and saw what the problem was, that I'd have to either buy new calipers or take it to a shop with a press to be able to get them apart. In the end, at least with my level of corrosion it was all fixable with a rubber mallet and some steel wool. Good luck.

[Pattys_P5]

Excellent "how to"... the first one took 30 min as I went back and forth to the computer to make sure I was on track... 2nd one took 15 min tops.

A couple of nice hints that really saved me some hassle.

Thanks again.

[Big_B]

Just found this through a google search and these are great instructions. Of course Mazda should get some kudos for providing a screw to back the caliper piston out too. After reading this thread I was able to bust this out in less than an hour for both sides!

[meGrimlock]

wow, my first time took nearly 3 hours! it didnt help that all 4 wheels were seized onto the hub in addition to the lugs being seized on the bolts. my landlord and his neighbors had one hell of a time getting those lugs off. we had to use a massive wrench to whack the tires until the wheels came loose.

the 2nd time took less than 2 hours but that included time waiting for rotors to be resurfaced. lesson to me, get breaker bars, get a clamp or piston retracting tool, and #%$damn those car repair shops for over torqueing the wheel lugs.

[damaster]

Ok, I know there is one for the fronts. I’ve searched for one for the backs and only found bits and pieces of info and a couple pictures that were helpful, but nothing that I would call a “how-to”. I thought it would be nice to put together a rear-disc how to. I believe the msp discs are slightly different so this is for the pro5 disc definately and anyone else who has the same rear disc set up.<o></o><o></o>

Great HOW-TO!

How come I can't find the front pads/disc replacement how-to?

[meGrimlock]

heres the tutorial i use:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43890

[ornithology]

My allen bolt to retract the piston is stripped!!!! What can I do besides a new caliper? Noooo....

[meGrimlock]

My allen bolt to retract the piston is stripped!!!! What can I do besides a new caliper? Noooo....
try a slightly larger allen wrench? or ez grip drops (there are other similar products) unfortunately even if you get the piston retracted you still need the allen bolt to reposition it.

[sporty111]

I wailed away at them for what seemed like... well, probably about 10 minutes to be honest. I tried everything from a regular hammer to a freakin sledge hammer. While I wasn't swinging away like Merel, I was definitely giving it a good wack. (years of practice) nada.... just a whole lot of nothing. Because my car was on jack stands, it got to the point where I was afraid I was going to hit my car right off the jack stands. (though, in hindsight, I suppose that's pretty unlikely) Regardless, I wussed out and settled for the pads. The rotors weren't even necessary anyway... I'll probably give em another shot when I put my winter wheels on this weekend. If anyone's got any advice (besides hit the shit out of them, by all means, let me know)

Hitting the rusted on rotors so hard make me nervous that I'll set the suspension components out of whack, or break someting altogether.
I used a 10 inch 2-jaw puller, a plumbing torch and WD 40. I'd first squirt WD 40 into the rotor / hub and lug nut area holes and the tightened up the tension on the puller. Let it sit for awhile and then heat it up with the torch. Tighten up the puller and tap the roto with a hammer from the back. I repeated this several times and eventually the rotor did let go. This is never an easy job. Heating up the rotor with a welding torch would have gotten the job done easier, but I don't have one. Before installtion of the new rotors I coated the inside with the silver anti seize - to make the job easier the next time.

[FishJunkie]

Excellent instructions. First time changing brakes myself. With this post and the shop manuel; changing pads, rotors, and painting calipers was easy. I didn't have a impact gun, so breaking the lock tight and rust took some pounding with a mallet but everything eventually came off.

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/