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View Full Version : Greddy Type RS BOV problems...HELP



Boosted Orange
06-14-2005, 06:09 PM
Ok so Im running a Greddy Type RS BOV on my coldpipe coming off my FMIC. It is an atmospheric BOV so there should be lots of "wooootttshhhh" coming out of it once I shift, right. Well there seems to be nothing at all coming from it. I have tried to adjust it from the softest setting to the hardest setting and still nothing changes.

Is there anyone out there who is running a single BOV setup with the RS that can help me out and maybe let me know why im not venting from it. I very confused and I need some help ASAP!!!

Thanks in advance guys!

~ Nick ~ (2thumbs)

ChopstickHero
06-14-2005, 06:32 PM
how's the vacuum source? are you tapping it from the brake booster line? do a search if you don't know what i'm talking about.

TX Speed Demon
06-14-2005, 06:35 PM
Take and post pictures of your set up.

Is your Vac line T'd off the stock source or are you running a dedicated line?

Are you getting "Turkey" or no sound at all?

Boosted Orange
06-14-2005, 06:35 PM
It's T'd into the line that is used for my MBC and the wastegate.

Boosted Orange
06-14-2005, 06:37 PM
Take and post pictures of your set up.

Is your Vac line T'd off the stock source or are you running a dedicated line?

Are you getting "Turkey" or no sound at all?

The only sound I am getting is from the intake and its more of a dolololololol.... and is very quite. My Forge BOV sounded 100X louder than my greddy does....

TX Speed Demon
06-14-2005, 06:37 PM
That sounds like turkey.


If you are getting turkey the VAC source is probably your issue. You need to run a dedicated vac source on most BOVs to get the response you want. Otherwise there is not enough pressure to fully open the valve, especially on a Type RS which has a stiffer spring than the Type S.

Get a stronger vac source and the Valve will be more responsive, opening and closing sooner so you can let out enough air to get your Woosh.

How much boost are you running? For a low boost car like the MSP at stock levels, the spring on the RS is pretty stiff. Isn't it rated at 10-~25 psi?

You could also rev the car up while under the hood and stick your hand in front of the BOV to see how much air is coming out. If not a lot is, then the valve setting is too tight, or the VAC source is too weak.

Also make sure your seal on your cold pipe is good. if you have a vac leak where the BOV connect to the pipe, the suction will not be strong enough to fully open the valve.

Boosted Orange
06-14-2005, 06:58 PM
Here's a few quick camera phone shots I just took of the vacuum source.

The blue goes to the BOV, the lower left goes to the MBC and the upper one goes towards the Intake mani.

http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photo/photo05/36/44/2a9f8a94f398.jpg?tw=305&th=228&_rh=ckh130xp6jo7ameo4c20fyum1

And heres a pic of the BOV just for good measure...

http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photo/photo04/2a/1d/34037bc3b4d1.jpg?tw=305&th=228&_rh=3ryw4jgyrbatplr74p5nw8d66

ChopstickHero
06-14-2005, 07:58 PM
your vac source to your bov looks tight or kinked. make sure it isn't kinked anywhere along the line. if all else doesn't work, try running a line from another vac source.

speed1016
06-14-2005, 09:19 PM
why not try and run it to your brake booster line?

Boosted Orange
06-14-2005, 09:21 PM
thats what tomorrows project is....if its dosnt work then im gonna get a type s one way or another.

speed1016
06-14-2005, 09:24 PM
pm replyed to.

mp5jeff
06-14-2005, 09:47 PM
bov needs to be t'd from the brake booster...

TX Speed Demon
06-15-2005, 10:37 AM
I agree with all of the above. It looks like you line is kinked right where it connects to the greddy. Try going off the brake booster line so you have a stong vac source that isn't being split between three different applications.

I can't tell grom your picture, but you do have a gasket between your RS and the flange right? If not it's going to be really hard to get a tight seal. If you have a leak there the valve will not function properly. If you don't have a gasket, order one and put it in there.

daedalus
06-15-2005, 11:54 AM
I'm not gonna lie, we had a RS lined up to go on my car but we have come to the direct conclusion that they suck major ass and balls.

2 of the three we have ordered have been defective or broken or both.

I decided to run an HKS SSQV instead. My point... maybe its not you, but the BOV itself...

Hypnotized
06-15-2005, 12:30 PM
It looks like the line is kinked. Check that and take it out for a ride. Im running a Greddy Type s without any problems using the same line from the BPV.

TX Speed Demon
06-15-2005, 02:12 PM
I decided to run an HKS SSQV instead. My point... maybe its not you, but the BOV itself...

The new SSQV valves are NON-ADJUSTABLE. You WILL have stalling issues with this BOV. If you can find an old one with the adjustment screw on the back you'll be ok, but if you get the new one with the solid black plate on the back you will have to run a dual set up to prevent stalling.

Boosted Orange
06-15-2005, 05:14 PM
I fixed the problem today. All it was, was this simple fact that it was not getting enough vacuum. I rerouted it to the BB line and it sounds and works incredible!!!

Hypnotized
06-15-2005, 08:56 PM
Sounds like the car is driveable. Do you still need the hot pipe? If everything works okay I say keep it that way.

Boosted Orange
06-15-2005, 09:00 PM
The car will be up and running strong by tomorrow afternoon. Then its SRT-4 and WRX ass kicking time....hahahaha

Hypnotized
06-15-2005, 09:13 PM
What are you boosting?

Hypnotized
06-15-2005, 09:14 PM
Never mind I jsut saw that you have it set at 6 or 10 psi. How long have oyu been boosting 10?

Boosted Orange
06-15-2005, 09:16 PM
I have a dual stage MBC so I can boost 10psi wheneve I feel, but Ive only had the car for about 2 months now. And have had no issues with upping the boost except for the occasional fuel cut on a cold morning if I run 10psi.

daedalus
06-15-2005, 11:31 PM
The new SSQV valves are NON-ADJUSTABLE. You WILL have stalling issues with this BOV. If you can find an old one with the adjustment screw on the back you'll be ok, but if you get the new one with the solid black plate on the back you will have to run a dual set up to prevent stalling.


yea I know, I allready was planning on running dual, i have the turboXS BPV on there right now. But thanks for the heads up!

Hypnotized
06-17-2005, 12:14 AM
You can also try to relocate your MAF.

Noel
01-27-2008, 01:26 AM
if I weaken loosen the spring in the type rs will that make my car stall more or fix the stalling?

Butternuts
01-27-2008, 03:42 AM
if I weaken loosen the spring in the type rs will that make my car stall more or fix the stalling?

I have the Type RS and if its too lose i get sputtering and stalling... to tight and i get turkey at anything over 2k RPM'S. It seems to be a very fine tune to get it right. And it seems to be different durring summer and winter. Had it tuned just were I wanted it and then winter hit and I got the turkey back. Losened it a bit and the turkey is dead once more. I still idle at a low rpm tho... usually 500 - 700 but i never stall or even come close to stalling. well... maybe when im really pushing my subs i do :P

nycmsp718
01-27-2008, 05:46 PM
i think i have a defective rs bov because idle when i gas it a lilttle bit it will start whistling.

FunkyBuddha
06-09-2008, 01:31 PM
Hmm..My RS is fine. I get a turkey call still though. Might have to check the vac source and do a bit more fine tuning.