Hesitation accompanied by Battery light ???

[TampaSport20]

I've been getting an intermittent hesitation and I'm a bit stumped..I knew it had been a while since my plugs had been replaced, so I got some new ones and went ahead and cleaned my K & N filter....That didn't fix it...I noticed it is happening when I am cruising at about 3000 RPM's, and it is being accompanied by a Battery light ??? I have almost a BRAND NEW battery in the car, I checked the alternator connections and had the alternator tested and it is putting out the correct voltage....My belts have never been changed but I checked them and they look good, no cracking, and no squeaking from the belts... I'm stumped...Help !

[MIA protege]

stumped me ... sorry . only thing i can think of is the alternator but if u got that checked then i dont know. 02 censor ?

[Marik123]

Alot of people with CAI on the 1.6L complained about hesitation due to faulty MAF. Maybe when u clean ur K&N air filter, some oil got into that MAF and cause that problem? I used to have hesitation problem then I used some Q-tips cleaner to clean up the MAF... Now it has no hesitation... Give that a try. Also use NGK regular spark plugs on ur protege, stay away from bosch and other brands....

[Witchdoktor]

the 1.6 with a CAI is notorious for hesitating but he's pulling a battery light, not a CEL. curious to see what it turns out to be

[MIA protege]

the 1.6 with a CAI is notorious for hesitating but he's pulling a battery light, not a CEL. curious to see what it turns out to be

exactly ... thats why my guess was not the cai

[MIA protege]

Alot of people with CAI on the 1.6L complained about hesitation due to faulty MAF. Maybe when u clean ur K&N air filter, some oil got into that MAF and cause that problem? I used to have hesitation problem then I used some Q-tips cleaner to clean up the MAF... Now it has no hesitation... Give that a try. Also use NGK regular spark plugs on ur protege, stay away from bosch and other brands....

nothing wrong with bosch (silly)

[TampaSport20]

I was having hesitation previous to cleaning the K & N, and I always use NGK's....

Being that the battery light and the hesitation are coinciding, I am 99% they are related and not seperate issues

[Marik123]

Have you check out the battery terminal connectors. Outside may look clean and pass all alternator/battery test, but inside could be dirty.

[TampaSport20]

Have you check out the battery terminal connectors. Outside may look clean and pass all alternator/battery test, but inside could be dirty.

Yes I have...they are fine...someone else suggested to me a crack in the coilpacks??? I did notice when it's dry out I haven't had any problems...But would this make the CHARGE light come on ???

[peepsalot]

I think I remember someone mentioning that a disconnected IAT sensor will make the battery light come on. Have you checked that connector?

[Shane5425]

could be an altenator going out, i know on my 1.6l when the altenator acts up , alot of wierd stuff happens, the tranny doesnt shift right, lights come on and off and engine runs like crap..

[vindication]

this happened to my cousins renault(i know, not same car, but hey) and it was his alternator. Some wire was loose. Wasn't the alternator going bad but one of the wires. Make sure to check to see if any grounding issues or anything.

[TampaSport20]

I think I remember someone mentioning that a disconnected IAT sensor will make the battery light come on. Have you checked that connector?

It's a 1.6L..the IAT is part of the MAF

[DiS]

how new is the battery? Whats the rating on it? Did you use the multimeter to check the voltage on it while the car is off and on? Since your CHARGE light turns on when you're driving the car, its definetly something electrical. I doubt it has to do with MAF, as CEL doesnt turn on. When using multimeter on battery while car is running, you should be getting reading of MORE than 12V going into the battery, if not, then its the problem because your battery doesnt charge up while car is on. Also how did u test the alternator? Did you do the load test on it? or just used the multimeter on it?

[Shane5425]

while the car is running you should get 13.5 volts, do a load test on the battery and a load test while it is running, autozone usually has the tool.

[DiS]

also does the hesitation appear at any rpm range? or specific? any gear? how about idle?

[Matthew]

if this is anything like the 2.0l the battery light is caused by the intake air temp sensor

[Shane5425]

we dont have one..

[TampaSport20]

The Battery is like 2 months old. I had the alternator tested at Advance Auto, and yes they load tested it. They said the battery and alternator are good. The hesitation is usually around the neighborhood of 3K...It happens usually in 3rd or 4th, but has happened in 2nd too....Hasnt reoccured lately, and I haven't driven it in the rain lately either, which leads me back to the coil pack suggestion....Anybody think a bad coil pack would cause this...I know they get heat soaked all the time to the possibility of a crack is likely, and moisture in the coilpack will definitely cause hesitation, I just don't know about the charge light coming on.


BTW Steve, we do have an IAT sensor, but it is part of the MAF. I doubt that is the problem though.

[peepsalot]

BTW Steve, we do have an IAT sensor, but it is part of the MAF. I doubt that is the problem though.
Can't hurt to check the connector.

[DiS]

well if it would be the coil, I think the problem would occur constantly, no matter in what gear or at what rpm you are. Coil provides constant voltage, and if coil would be bad, you would have problem all the time.....doesnt hurt to check as others said. I really hope that you gonna resolve this problem!

[TampaSport20]

well if it would be the coil, I think the problem would occur constantly, no matter in what gear or at what rpm you are. Coil provides constant voltage, and if coil would be bad, you would have problem all the time.....doesnt hurt to check as others said. I really hope that you gonna resolve this problem!


I not saying the coil is bad, I'm saying maybe it has a small crack in the case. I know that moisture inside a coilpack WILL cause hesitation. I did notice that I am only having the problem driving while it's wet out...I did check the MAF connection when I tuned up the car...it's fine.

[vindication]

tampa, did you get the wiring diagrams? there where 2, a html and a pdf file

[Shane5425]

I not saying the coil is bad, I'm saying maybe it has a small crack in the case. I know that moisture inside a coilpack WILL cause hesitation. I did notice that I am only having the problem driving while it's wet out...I did check the MAF connection when I tuned up the car...it's fine.

i know the toyota engines with the coil packs in the distributor were known for cracking, when they would crack u would have a hesitation, but it wouldnt be in just one gear, it is all threw the rpm range, , but since we have 2 packs instead of one, it would be differant..

did you visually inspect the packs for any small cracks??

[DiS]

I not saying the coil is bad, I'm saying maybe it has a small crack in the case. I know that moisture inside a coilpack WILL cause hesitation. I did notice that I am only having the problem driving while it's wet out...I did check the MAF connection when I tuned up the car...it's fine.

hehe gotcha

definetly something electrical, no two ways about it

[TampaSport20]

tampa, did you get the wiring diagrams? there where 2, a html and a pdf file

yes, I did...thank you very much...they were very helpful

[Matthew]

if the IAF is in the MAF then one or both could be bad. the reason a battery light comes on when you have a bad IAF is because it cant charge the battery properlly.

[vindication]

yes, I did...thank you very much...they were very helpful

nice. I was getting worried cause I didn't hear back from you.

[DiS]

the reason a battery light comes on when you have a bad IAF is because it cant charge the battery properlly.

indeed, thats where I was going with this

[TampaSport20]

Looks like you guys were right about the MAF !!!

I hadn't driven my pro in about 2 weeks(surgery, then i was driving the MX-6)

....I went to it and the battery was completely dead...Apparently leaving my alarm armed for that long likes to drain the battery...Charged it up and started the car and there was a CEL ??? Looked at the MAF and it was loose from the plastic housing ! The screws apparently had stripped right from the plastic !

Tried cleaning the MAF and re-securing with some JB weld, no good !! Barely started and wants to keep dying !!The alternator is charging well though, because I am able to keep restarting the battery after it runs a minute or so.

I just ordered a MAF from a junkyard off a low mileage 1.6L. Hopefully this fixes my probs...

Thank god for the second car...Pretty bad when my 90 MX-6 is more reliable lately than my '00 Protege with less than half the mileage.

[TampaSport20]

update....I spoke too soon about my MX-6....it took a dump on me yesterday....not sure whats wrong...was running and then just died...starter spinds the engine but it doesnt turn over....checked the fuel pump and it's working..I think perhaps my ignition coil went after i washed my engine bay....cant get a spark to the block off the ignition coil wire..I'm going to test it with a multimeter today...

good news !!!! I got my MAF and the Protege now runs perfect again.....

interesting note ...the Mazda 3 MAF and the Protege 1.6L MAF are interchangeable parts...the guy at the junkyard said my MAF came off an '04 Mazda 3 2.3L.....

[Shane5425]

interesting, i wonder if they are better?

[TampaSport20]

interesting, i wonder if they are better?
It appears to be the same part. If anything I know it's pretty new....

How many miles could've been on an '04 Mazda 3 that's been in the junkies a while

[Shane5425]

whats the part number on it, ? same?

[nadim]

well i have a hesitation problem when i'am not runing the car or stop in a red light and the ac goes on the rpm goes to down and the car seems to go off and it shakes strongly and then it goes normal!!! could that be solved?

[Shane5425]

cant be, thats the ac compressor kicking on, mine does that and every one elses car for that matter, its just our 1.6l is a lil bit on the power lacking side, so it bogs down a bit..

[TampaSport20]

well i have a hesitation problem when i'am not runing the car or stop in a red light and the ac goes on the rpm goes to down and the car seems to go off and it shakes strongly and then it goes normal!!! could that be solved?

check for a vacuum leak at the throttle body...mine did the same thing before

[TampaSport20]

back from the dead....I am getting that same hesitation again....now I also am getting occassional light flickering and RPM bouncing up and down at idle, almost to the point of dying....no battery light though and no CEL

I am thinking vacuum leak but I cant seem to locate one...I'm about to install a vacuum guage to check it

Any ideas ????

[DiS]

um well since you get light flickering, may it be possible that alternator is faulty?

[TampaSport20]

Well I found POSSIBLY what the problem is but I need help...it appears one of the vacuum hoses is missing off the PRC valve

problem is I'm looking at zm-de vacuum diagrams from a 2002 manual and it doesnt make sense

I need someone with a 99-00 to help me out and look in their engine bay

on the passenger side of the engine bay there is a valve just beside the intake manifold with 3 vacuum connections.....one connection goes straight to the intake manifold, one goes to the fuel pressure regulator, and the third one points straight back to firewall and mine doesnt have anything connected, although you can tell by it's condition something was...i couldnt find any loose hoses, so where does it go ?????

[peepsalot]

got a pic?

[TampaSport20]

bump, help !

[Shane5425]

i need help too!!! my car tranny is slipping!!! AHHHH but on ur problem , my brother in law says its on the electrical system, most common cause of it. the alt. did you get the battery load tested??

[TampaSport20]

i need help too!!! my car tranny is slipping!!! AHHHH but on ur problem , my brother in law says its on the electrical system, most common cause of it. the alt. did you get the battery load tested??


I had the battery tested, it's fine...alternator was tested too and tested fine....You dont think a vacuum line missing off the PRC solonoid would cause hesitation and bouncing idle ???

[Shane5425]

definatly, that could be a very good reason.. a vacuum leak will definatly cause a bouncy idle..

[TampaSport20]

definatly, that could be a very good reason.. a vacuum leak will definatly cause a bouncy idle..

Now if I can just figure out where it goes.......

[Shane5425]

take a pic of it, let me see it ill go run to mine
see if its the same..

[TampaSport20]

I'm at work...If I have enough light when I get home I'll snap a pic.....I think jster might have it for me though on the other thread I posted

[TampaSport20]

Ok guys...back to the drawing board...

No vacuum leak from the PRC....

No EGR system on the car

Still getting rolling idle and hesitation.....

Looked closer at my intake...and appears I had a large likely hood of a vacuum leak at the MAF....

Kind of a long story but here goes...I had my MAF go bad, but I tried cleaning it first....when I did this, I broke the O-ring on it....So I tried going to the hardware store to replace it...found one but it was a bit "fatter" than the stocker, and wouldnt fit down in the mount. So I sanded the inside of the mount to make it fit...still didnt fix the MAF though by cleaning it so I replaced it.....

With a new MAF In there it now fits loosely down in the mount....

Figured this out recently,and thought "Yeah, I might have a slight vacuum leak there " so I made a "gasket" for it

This seemed to help some....the rolling idle is still there, but MUCH less pronounced...and hesitation still is there, but less

soooooooo....here's what I'm thinking and want opinions on

Maybe this was the problem all along, and my "gasket" helped but still isnt sealing properly....

Maybe if I bought a new mount(airbox) so that is was back to original seal(rather than sanded inside with a gasket on the top), this would fix it completely ?????

I know these MAF's are sensitive as helpp and everything has to be just about perfect for them to work right..

I'll post pics when I get home so it makes a little more sense

[Shane5425]

is the rubber o ring on the maf sensor torn or anything??

[TampaSport20]

is the rubber o ring on the maf sensor torn or anything??

not the new one...but the surface it seals against is what I previously mentioned sanding

[Shane5425]

ahh, try that or take some silicone as a last ditch effort..

[Protoge99lx]

I've been getting an intermittent hesitation and I'm a bit stumped..I knew it had been a while since my plugs had been replaced, so I got some new ones and went ahead and cleaned my K & N filter....That didn't fix it...I noticed it is happening when I am cruising at about 3000 RPM's, and it is being accompanied by a Battery light ??? I have almost a BRAND NEW battery in the car, I checked the alternator connections and had the alternator tested and it is putting out the correct voltage....My belts have never been changed but I checked them and they look good, no cracking, and no squeaking from the belts... I'm stumped...Help !
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Hey Mazda Fans.. .
Its funny how i found this site but im glad i did. I just want to post my adventure on the car i just bought 10 months ago. I bought a Mazda protoge 99lx 4 door with 83K on it...5 speed. It was owned by a lady.. anyways..when i just bought this car..i drover it out of the dealership and 5 hrs later it started to act up and goin really slow the gears felt funny and it idle alot. I took it back the next day and they told me that it was my spark plugs and some wiring , which need it new ones and they did it for me at no extra cost. SO 2 days later i drover the car out and the Engine light comes on so i was like what the hell is going on ?!.. i took it back again and i left it with the mechanics..they called me and they told me it was my Catallic converter and it cost around $300 bucks to replaced it... i told them no way..it would not pay an extra Cent so they contacted the Mazda Dealership and they told me that i was in luck and the Catallic Converter was in warranty since it was under 100K so they changed it ...and also told me to run Ethenol gas for like 3x to clean the engine. That took care of the problem... After 8 months later i went out with a couple of buddies there was a car accident and i had the car in 1st and 2nd gear ..i felt heat coming off the car from the bottom and the battery light kept flashin...i stoped the car and turn off my Car System that i put few months before...( sony deck..2x 12'inch subs with 312 Qinfinity Amp ) anyways the battery light came off but the engine light was solid...i went home and left the car off the whole day the next day the errors had clear and the problem never came back. Last week i was driving it and the engine light came on with the battery light flashing and coming solid, then flashing again. The next day i open the hood and made sure that nothing was loose, wires timing belt etc etc so then i turn the car off and both the engine light came off with the battery light i turned the car off and they both came back...I went to get the battery checked and it was at 291 which they told me that it was fine but to buy a new one either way cause in Canada winter is REally cold , so i was doing myself a favour. Anyways i bought the battery which cost me around 92.00 Canadian and i put it myself turn on the car and the errors are on still but the battery light is solid now. I been told it might be the Alternator...but for some reasons i dont think it is...i havent taken it to a mechanic yet but i might have to soon. PLease if anyone has any suggestion or any clue of what could this be a little help would be very nice. Thanks Again Please email me @ werner_p@hotmail.com or msg me here .. thanks again

[TampaSport20]

update...new alternator fixed everything.....voltage regulator went bad