stock audio question

[solid_snake]

just curious to know how much power the stock head unit has.


thanks

[MIA protege]

is it 25 x 4 ?? dont quote me

[solid_snake]

ok, thanks for that quick answer

[DiS]

not sure about the headunit, but stock speakers are 25 watts each. So headunit is either 25x4 or a bit less (like 20x4 or something)

[DeadFaerie]

that seems alright for a stock sound system probably not much base out of 4 25watt mids...though, although is it a universal size for putting an aftermarket headunit in the dashboard?

and the speakers are easily changed, correct? two in the doors and two behind the back seats

[FrigginGLI]

Stock headunit around 10 watts rms. Dash kits are available to put aftermarket radios in. Speakers come right out.

[DeadFaerie]

sweet, put some nice 50watt mids in their, 200-300watt head unit, maybe aftermarket amp, small sub, nothing large then you just like your ricing your car and panels, screws and windows start rattling and coming lose, which bugs me in my van right now, it has an awesome sound system (Infinity Stock Sound System) has awesome bass but the back panels and windows are loose so its sounds like the speakers are going when they are fine, but i really have problems finding the rattling

[DiS]

that was the 1st two things that I did when I bought my baby within a month. Got myself Kenwood KDC series headunit (50x4 output) and 4 pioneer speakers 220 watts max

[MotegiMazdA]

I changed my stock unit because it wouldnt play burned cd's for me. One of the last things I bought for the car actually. I dont even remember what it sounds like. :)

[solid_snake]

I changed my stock unit because it wouldnt play burned cd's for me. One of the last things I bought for the car actually. I dont even remember what it sounds like. :)

i changed mine in my protege because it didn't want to play any cd, i got a 50x4 MOSFET Pioneer head unit, 260W in the back and 200W on the doors

[DeadFaerie]

hows the protege for sound wise, if you have a nice system does it sound good in the car, i know some cars are not to good with sound dynamics

[1sty]

Oh dear God

1. A actory head unit has about 10watts x4 and aftermarket one has 15 x 4 to 25x4. 50x4 is a max number the unit is theoreticly capable of. Its called a peak power rating and its useless.

2. Speakers DO NOT HAVE WATTS. Putting in speakers of a certain power rating (watts) only means that they are capable of taking that power if you have it to give. A head unit and even most amps will never get near 200 watts to each speaker.

3. Speakers that say "200 watts" on the box are again quoting a technicly possible peak value. Again this is a peak power rating. The speaker could handle it for a millisecond before becoming a moltent pile of metal and plastic. These speakers are usualy around the 30-60 watts rms range.


4. THERE WILL NEVER BE A 200-300 watt HEAD UNIT!!!!!!!














AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

[DiS]

Oh dear God

1. A actory head unit has about 10watts x4 and aftermarket one has 15 x 4 to 25x4. 50x4 is a max number the unit is theoreticly capable of. Its called a peak power rating and its useless.

2. Speakers DO NOT HAVE WATTS. Putting in speakers of a certain power rating (watts) only means that they are capable of taking that power if you have it to give. A head unit and even most amps will never get near 200 watts to each speaker.

3. Speakers that say "200 watts" on the box are again quoting a technicly possible peak value. Again this is a peak power rating. The speaker could handle it for a millisecond before becoming a moltent pile of metal and plastic. These speakers are usualy around the 30-60 watts rms range.


4. THERE WILL NEVER BE A 200-300 watt HEAD UNIT!!!!!!!














AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!


........like I never knew that........the only way to push all watts through the speakers is to get an amplifier hooked up to them.

[banden]

this thread got me to join this forum... (my first post)

for fun I decided to test the power of my stock head unit by hooking up a multimeter (voltmeter) to my speaker output on the unit.

I used a whitenoise cd and played a track that had a 20hz to 20000hz frequency range

using my laptop and FFT spectrograph software I turned the unit up to a point where it had no more than 0.04%THD at any given time.... which is a respectable and moderate amount.

Im using a set of 6 ohm speakers

and the voltmeter read: no less than 4.22 V

plug that into the equation: W=Vsquared/A and we get a wattage of

Da-da-da-DAAAA! about 3 WATTS per channel (1 channel driven at a time)

Multiply that by root means square (.707) to get our respectable RMS rating:

4 x 2.2 watts RMS (20-20khz, 6 ohm, 0.04%THD)

we can increase that number quite a bit by going to a 4ohm speaker with 1% thd and only play a 1khz tone... infact we can get a 8volt min. reading doing this... which translates under these circumstances to about:

4 x 11.3 watts RMS (1khz, 4ohm, 1%THD)

and if we were to measure peak performance I can use a 11.22 volt peak reading under who knows how much distortion... and maybe plop in a 3.5 ohm speaker load to create an utterly amazing and obviously much more powerful sounding:

4 x 35 Watts peak

So if you wanna know how many watts your deck is... just pick any number between 1 and 140 watts and you wont be wrong.

[Protege52003]

Oh dear God


4. THERE WILL NEVER BE A 200-300 watt HEAD UNIT!!!!!!!



craig,

I have V-power in my HU, she must put out 240 Watts.......

-R

[1sty]

craig,

I have V-power in my HU, she must put out 240 Watts.......

-R

104 watts total, 26 x 4

[1sty]

this thread got me to join this forum... (my first post)

for fun I decided to test the power of my stock head unit by hooking up a multimeter (voltmeter) to my speaker output on the unit.

I used a whitenoise cd and played a track that had a 20hz to 20000hz frequency range

using my laptop and FFT spectrograph software I turned the unit up to a point where it had no more than 0.04%THD at any given time.... which is a respectable and moderate amount.

Im using a set of 6 ohm speakers

and the voltmeter read: no less than 4.22 V

plug that into the equation: W=Vsquared/A and we get a wattage of

Da-da-da-DAAAA! about 3 WATTS per channel (1 channel driven at a time)

Multiply that by root means square (.707) to get our respectable RMS rating:

4 x 2.2 watts RMS (20-20khz, 6 ohm, 0.04%THD)

we can increase that number quite a bit by going to a 4ohm speaker with 1% thd and only play a 1khz tone... infact we can get a 8volt min. reading doing this... which translates under these circumstances to about:

4 x 11.3 watts RMS (1khz, 4ohm, 1%THD)

and if we were to measure peak performance I can use a 11.22 volt peak reading under who knows how much distortion... and maybe plop in a 3.5 ohm speaker load to create an utterly amazing and obviously much more powerful sounding:

4 x 35 Watts peak

So if you wanna know how many watts your deck is... just pick any number between 1 and 140 watts and you wont be wrong.Nicely done.
How did you determin amperage, measure or calculate?

[banden]

Nicely done.
How did you determin amperage, measure or calculate?

Im thinking you are thinking about:

W = V x A

which I believe is used more for applying DC voltage...

I'm using the equation

P = E2 / R

(E2 = E squared)

P is power measured in watts
E is energy measured in AC volts
R is resistance measured in ohms

it is accurate although there are flaws in my way of measuring...

speaker has variable resistance and can give inaccurate readings... you really should use a resistor instead...

my multimeter is rather slow at measuring volts
a scope could measure volts at a precise location in the signal or sine wave.

THD is very debatable and my program doesnt weigh high frequency harmonics heavier even though they are more likely to be audible. (so some amps with lower THD may have more audible distortion)

__________________________________________________ __________

The key for amplifiers is to look at all the information in the brackets after the wattage specification... DONT GO BY THE BIGGEST NUMBER ON THE BOX (even though your eyes are naturally drawn to larger fonts and capital letters)

and for speakers the build quality(look), efficiency (db/1meter), and frequency response (hz) are as (if not more) important as the power handling. You are better off over powering a speaker (where you can hear it if it is distorting) than underpowering a speaker (where there could be damaging inaudible distortion present)

By and large the MOST important thing is to find a good match between the amplifier and speaker:

If you have a low power deck use a high efficiency speaker with a lower power rating.

If you have an external amplifier (even though a high effeciency speaker would be fine...) the goal would be to find a speaker that takes advantage of the extra power to provide more control and thus better frequency response without straining and distorting.

[protege02]

umm, would any of u keep the stock in dash 6 disc changer? im thinking about getting more powerful door speakers and rear speakers. does anyone know how many watts the stock 6 disc changer can take. im thinking about 200 max watts, such as 50 watts in each speaker. so 100watts upgrade. also, my cd player plays burned cd's fine.

[Protege52003]

Hey 1'sty. You know I was kidding with you here......

View First Unread (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110400&page=2&pp=15#post1892966)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Protege52003
craig,

I have V-power in my HU, she must put out 240 Watts.......

-R



104 watts total, 26 x 4
__________________
Audio Moderator, MECP certified Installer, CTS certified

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2003 Protege LX
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this old post got bumped up!

don't want you to think i am an idiot.....

-R

[solid_snake]

umm, would any of u keep the stock in dash 6 disc changer? im thinking about getting more powerful door speakers and rear speakers. does anyone know how many watts the stock 6 disc changer can take. im thinking about 200 max watts, such as 50 watts in each speaker. so 100watts upgrade. also, my cd player plays burned cd's fine.


i believe is "180" watts peak

[1sty]

umm, would any of u keep the stock in dash 6 disc changer? im thinking about getting more powerful door speakers and rear speakers. does anyone know how many watts the stock 6 disc changer can take. im thinking about 200 max watts, such as 50 watts in each speaker. so 100watts upgrade. also, my cd player plays burned cd's fine.

YOur kind of looking at it back asswards.
Swapping in more powerful speakers means you need to provide them with more power. They have no power, they are just speakers. They handle power. More "powerful" speakers will just get the same power the old ones did and will loose bass output as they need more juice to properly move.

Any speaker that says "200 WATTS" in big letters on the box is pure bullshit. First off speakers HAVE NO POWER. Second a real 200 watts rms would desroy any such POS speaker. This is what real 200 watt RMS capable speakers look like: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=216&CategoryID=14
They cost around $1000/pair. But you need an amp capable of producing that power or they are wasted. The weakest amp I will sell them with is a JL audio 300/2 which is 150 wattsrms by 2.

SO to get more power, you must add an amplifier or a more powerful head unit. To date no head unit has produced more then 27 watts by 4. NONE. The 60x4 ratings are bullshit. So at best the most powerful head unit ever built only produced 108 watts total. Your car will only produce around 40 watts total regardless of what is hooked up to it as I mentioned since the speaker do not produce power, they just handle it.


Now to address your question directly, yes, you can keep the factory changer. Many have. You will simply need to add an external amplifier to the system to better power aftermarket speakers. IF you are not going to do this and stay to speakers around $100/pair as anything more will require too much power to be beneficial in your system and would be a waste of money.

[DiS]

YOur kind of looking at it back asswards.
Swapping in more powerful speakers means you need to provide them with more power. They have no power, they are just speakers. They handle power. More "powerful" speakers will just get the same power the old ones did and will loose bass output as they need more juice to properly move.

Any speaker that says "200 WATTS" in big letters on the box is pure bullshit. First off speakers HAVE NO POWER. Second a real 200 watts rms would desroy any such POS speaker. This is what real 200 watt RMS capable speakers look like: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=216&CategoryID=14
They cost around $1000/pair. But you need an amp capable of producing that power or they are wasted. The weakest amp I will sell them with is a JL audio 300/2 which is 150 wattsrms by 2.

SO to get more power, you must add an amplifier or a more powerful head unit. To date no head unit has produced more then 27 watts by 4. NONE. The 60x4 ratings are bullshit. So at best the most powerful head unit ever built only produced 108 watts total. Your car will only produce around 40 watts total regardless of what is hooked up to it as I mentioned since the speaker do not produce power, they just handle it.


Now to address your question directly, yes, you can keep the factory changer. Many have. You will simply need to add an external amplifier to the system to better power aftermarket speakers. IF you are not going to do this and stay to speakers around $100/pair as anything more will require too much power to be beneficial in your system and would be a waste of money.
man this is the best explanation of speakers/headunit operation Ive EVER heard! 1sty you're the man! (thumb)

[1sty]

thats true, I am the man :D

[DiS]

thats true, I am the man :D

hehe the man with the plan
GROUP HUG!(group)

[protege02]

YOur kind of looking at it back asswards.
Swapping in more powerful speakers means you need to provide them with more power. They have no power, they are just speakers. They handle power. More "powerful" speakers will just get the same power the old ones did and will loose bass output as they need more juice to properly move.

Any speaker that says "200 WATTS" in big letters on the box is pure bullshit. First off speakers HAVE NO POWER. Second a real 200 watts rms would desroy any such POS speaker. This is what real 200 watt RMS capable speakers look like: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=216&CategoryID=14
They cost around $1000/pair. But you need an amp capable of producing that power or they are wasted. The weakest amp I will sell them with is a JL audio 300/2 which is 150 wattsrms by 2.

SO to get more power, you must add an amplifier or a more powerful head unit. To date no head unit has produced more then 27 watts by 4. NONE. The 60x4 ratings are bullshit. So at best the most powerful head unit ever built only produced 108 watts total. Your car will only produce around 40 watts total regardless of what is hooked up to it as I mentioned since the speaker do not produce power, they just handle it.


Now to address your question directly, yes, you can keep the factory changer. Many have. You will simply need to add an external amplifier to the system to better power aftermarket speakers. IF you are not going to do this and stay to speakers around $100/pair as anything more will require too much power to be beneficial in your system and would be a waste of money.

i know nothing about stereo components. cant u tell? no, im joking with u. anyway, i think the stock stuff is fine, but i just want it to be louder. one of my friends told me to get tweeters. im not really sure what tweeters do, so i was like why dont i just buy 4 new component speakers(i think that's what they are called. so that's why i asked the question but thanks for the reply.

[1sty]

i know nothing about stereo components. cant u tell? no, im joking with u. anyway, i think the stock stuff is fine, but i just want it to be louder. one of my friends told me to get tweeters. im not really sure what tweeters do, so i was like why dont i just buy 4 new component speakers(i think that's what they are called. so that's why i asked the question but thanks for the reply.

Tweeters are the smalledst of speakes. They are typcily .5-1" in diameter and they play only the highest range of sound. Basicly just symbol crashes and really high horns or computer generated sounds (think techno)
So if you add tweeter, all that will get louder is that one small area of sound. If you want the bulk of the music louder, you need and amp. Typicly this is best when done with an aftermarket speaker install as it can play more of the entire range of sound then the factory speaker can and can handle even more power to play even louder when properly amped.
The thing to remeber is that if you want louder subbass, no speaker swap is going to help, could actualy hurt, you need a subwoofer and an amp to drive it. That is the only thing that will creat sub bass.

Your friend's reccomendation tells me that he has no clue either about audio. So don't listen to him.

[Dadkins]

My original 6 disk was skippy and very sketchy on burned CD's it finally ate 5 CD's - warranty covered that and replaced the head unit.
1sty- you seem to know a lot about this stuff - What would be the best (cheapest ) upgrade I can do ?- I am thinking the MP3 Sub as well as a small amplifier 100 w and possibly a speaker swap - I believe my car has 6 - but maybe 4 midrange and has tweeters in the doors by the mirrors.

[solid_snake]

1sty- you seem to know a lot about this stuff
yeah, that's why he is an audio moderator :D

[solid_snake]

from what i have heard, the MP3 sub sucks

[DiS]

from what i have heard, the MP3 sub sucks
lol, you probably heard it when it was off (rofl)

I actually like it alot. For that 10'' sub, it hits pretty good for the stock.

[solid_snake]

i meant that people have said it sucks, i wish i could hear one (rofl)

[chuyler1]

Don't bother with the MP3 sub. For the price you will pay you can get much better equipment. Almost any entry-level 8" or 10" sub along with a 100-250w RMS amplifier will do much better. However, if you are really serious, I suggest a 4 or 5 channel amplifier so you can also power your front speakers (and rear speakers if you decide to upgrade them also).

[1sty]

My original 6 disk was skippy and very sketchy on burned CD's it finally ate 5 CD's - warranty covered that and replaced the head unit.
1sty- you seem to know a lot about this stuff - What would be the best (cheapest ) upgrade I can do ?- I am thinking the MP3 Sub as well as a small amplifier 100 w and possibly a speaker swap - I believe my car has 6 - but maybe 4 midrange and has tweeters in the doors by the mirrors.

What kind of money are you looking to spend?
The most important thing to do is to go and listen to some speakers first and decide what you like th esound of the best.

As for the sub, I would do a small 2 channel amp and a single 10" or 12" sub instead of the MP3 on which is bulky and overpriced for what it is.

Your car has 4 speakers and then add on tweeters by the mirriors. You can reuse these, disconnect them, or replace them with new speakers. Its up to you.

Are you looking to replace the head unit aswell?

The cheapest package I can think of instantly that would be decent would be a single alpine type E 10" sub, a set of Alpine Type S coaxles, and then a 4 channel clarion amplfier. The amp will power the sub and front speakers. All in all it might be around $500.

[1sty]

i meant that people have said it sucks, i wish i could hear one (rofl)

its not that bad.

[solid_snake]

hell i have only seen 2 MP3s in my life, which sucks :(

[RyanPitch]

Your car has 4 speakers and then add on tweeters by the mirriors.Where can I find a replacement "inside the mirror" piece on which to mount aftermarket tweeters (on a car that did not originally have them there)? Do they make an aftermarket replacement piece for that, or should I break out the Dremel and cut a hole in the existing ones?

Basically, I've got a stock 2002 P5 and I'm going to add a new head unit (already have it), a 50W RMS X 2 power amp (already have it) for the front speakers, new component speakers (don't have them yet, want to buy 'em ASAP), and I'll let the new head unit power the existing rear speakers.

As far as component speakers, it looks like I could use 5 1/4" or 5X7/6X8. Is one size necessarily better than the other?

By the way, thanks for the sticky on the rear speakers. I was about to buy a 4-channel amp, but you probably saved me a ton of money.

Thanks.

[chuyler1]

You could find the "inside the mirror" piece at a junk yard. Otherwise, I would just get the right size bit from home depot to drill the hole in the piece you have. They sell spade bits up to like a 2" diameter.

The ideal size for 2-way components is 6.5". You CAN fit a 6.5" speaker in the factory 6x8" hole and it is the same amount of work as putting in a 5.25". The easiest install of course is a 6x8/5x7 but your options are limited with that size.

[RyanPitch]

Wow, thanks for the info. I'll drill my current "inside the mirror" piece. About the size of component speakers:

Strictly looking from an aspect of SQ, are the 6.5" better than the 6X8? If the answer is, "No, it's just that with 6X8 you have less selection," then I might just save myself the time on install and just go with a 6X8 pair. Thanks.

[chuyler1]

People like to argue that round speakers sound better than oval speakers....I have yet to see a sound-off where someone could tell the difference though.

If you happen to like a set of speakers and they come in 6.5" and 6x8" I see no reason why you shouldn't buy the 6x8" for ease of installation.

One thing to consider though...if you make an investment in a set of speakers, you may want to hold onto them when you trade your car in. Your next car may not have 6x8" openings. 6.5" is a more common speaker size and in the event that they will not fit in the doors of your next car, you can always build kickpanels for them.

It really isn't hard to install 6.5" speakers in a 6x8" hole. All you need is a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" MDF or birch ply, a jig saw, and a drill. Trace the shape of the stock speaker onto the board, trace the shape of the new speaker in the center, mark the mounting hole, cut out the mounting hole, cut out the perimeter, drill a few holes and your done.

[Aberration]

About the component installation is it better to put a hole in the mirror triangle or put a hole right above where the stock speaker is in the door? Or better yet which is easier?
The other question I have is that I have a 2001 Protege ES and I swear the stock was 5 1/4 which I replaced with the same without any troubles or modifications... if I wanted to change it to a 6.5 would it be worth the effort of using MDF and such for the upgrade compared to just using a 5 1/4 component?
thanks

[chuyler1]

As far as I know, all 3rd Gens have 5x7s up front, not 5-1/4. It is not that much trouble to make an MDF baffle. All you need is a jig saw and a drill. Trace the outline of the stock speaker, trace the outline of the new speaker, cut the sum of those two, cut a center mounting hole, fasten it to the door, and mount the speaker.

Installing the tweeter above the speaker or in the mirror panel is about the same amount of work. However, should you sell the car and decide to keep your speakers it is much easier (and cheaper) to replace the mirror panel than it it is to replace the entire door panel.

As far as sound quality goes, you will get better imaging with them in the doors but you will get better stage height with them in the mirror panels. The difference is minimal. Get some double sided tape and play with mounting positions for the tweeters before you drill anything. After a few experiments you will get a better idea of where you want to mount them.

[Aberration]

[QUOTE=chuyler1]As far as I know, all 3rd Gens have 5x7s up front, not 5-1/4. It is not that much trouble to make an MDF baffle. All you need is a jig saw and a drill. Trace the outline of the stock speaker, trace the outline of the new speaker, cut the sum of those two, cut a center mounting hole, fasten it to the door, and mount the speaker.

Thanks, saddly I was thinking of my friends car cause when I took the door off it was a 5x7 whch I decided to not remmember installing, anyway assuming the 6.5 and 5 1/4 are the same to install and are the same price then it's an easy call to get the 6.5 right?

if I did mount the tweeters in the triangle piece is there enough room and does it look good, do you mount it at an angle or just mount it flush and direct it?
Thanks

[chuyler1]

If you in fact have 5-1/4" speakers up front then it will not be an easy task installing a 6-1/2" speaker. You are better off sticking with the 5-1/4" size.

However, if you are incorrect and they are 6x8"/5x7" up front then I recommend upgrading to 6-1/2" instead of 5-1/4"

[hudnik]

ok time to resurrect this here thread
1sty another question inspired by laziness
i do know some about car audio, so i won't try to bore you
however i just got my 01 proto and well for some reason i'm only gettin audio out of one speaker in the back, i checked the kenwood hd and it's good as far as i can tell, so i guess it's time to replace the speakers, i though i spotted six spots for full speakers (not tweeters) two front door two back door and two rear deck, first of all, is that right or are two of those teasers?
second what are the sizes and what's the biggest they'll take
i haven't yet had time to tear into this car, in my old trooper i had a pioneer hd, a 200x4 external amp, JL components up fornt and rockford coaxials in the rear and it sounded great, i'm not really lookin to spend much money hear, but i definetly want the most bang for my buck, so if i can shave some off the speaker hole and fit a bigger speaker that's fine with me
what're your suggestions, and to get to the speakers, do i need to take the door molding off or do the screens pop off?

sorry for the newbie questions, i work 40 hrs a week and don't really even have time on the weekends, or at least not in the near future to give these things a look, so i'm tryin to take a few shortcuts here

[chuyler1]

Screens don't pop off. You have to remove the entire door panel. Info about speaker sizes and wiring harnesses can be found here:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8940

Keep in mind that with audio, more does not always equal better. Just because there are six spots for speakers doesn't mean that two can't sound great. In fact, if you want the best staging and imaging out of your recordings it is best to just install a set of components up front and a subwoofer in the rear. It's simple, it works, and it sounds great.

If you're not looking for killer bass then I suggest a 4 channel amp (do you still have that amp from your trooper?) to power speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amp to power a 10" or 12" subwoofer.

[hudnik]

i have a crappy, but louder than the hd, amp at home, but i'm just not lookin to do much more than stock size or slightly above for better sound reproduction, other than that, i'm tryin to save money, i'm plannin on a coupla performance/gas mileage mods to the little guy but that's about it,
i had my trooper done up pretty well, lift, tires, exhaust, intake, bumper, stereo, lights, trail damage ;)
and i had empty pockets to show for it in the end, i'm tryin to be a bit more reasonable with this one and take the bang for the buck route, that's why i bought the car in the first place, got it on a steal, and i love it so far, but i'm just not lookin to spend more than i feel like i have to

thanks for the info,

also concernin the subs, i used to have a 626 as my first car and i ran 2 rockfrod power dvcs via a 800.2 that maxed at 1000w and after realizing that the head aches and money weren't worth it, i'm apprehensive on subs, i was thinkin of maybe runnin a bazooka in the back just to take the strain off the door speakers, but that's just a thought and not somethin i'll be doin in the near future, right now the stereo, intake, and a quiet but unrestrictive (oxymoron huh, not really just puttin a glasspack with the muffler) exhaust are the first things, and maybe a window tint

thanks again (thumb)

also, if i were to go with components for the front, would i need to fill in the original 5x7 spot?

[chuyler1]

There are a few 5x7/6x8 component sets on the market. Infinity and JL Audio come to mind. However, you can simply create a baffle that will allow you to mount a 6.5" driver in the oval shaped hole. It's pretty easy to do and if you're not up to the task you might be able to find pre-made ones made out of abs plastic.

[hudnik]

ok that's what i was lookin for thanks, i think i can handle it form there, bust out the ol jig saw and plywood (thumb)

[GearsForBrains]

Car stereos in cars are one thing. Ever since my parents gave away my car, I run my car stereo in my dorm room. Pioneer head, Infinity door speakers, and I just bought two Infinity 1042w subs. My RA hates me...on the first floor already. I live on the fourth floor. That's three floors of near solid concrete walls and heavy metal doors. I feel accomplished.