Separating Engine from ATX?

[GNO]

On previous engines I've pulled, I was able to pull the motor without the transmission. On the P5, it appears I may be able to do so, however, accessing the bolts that attach the flexplate to the torque convertor appear to be a bit of a challenge. To make matters worse, I don't think I'd be able to turn the motor to access the bolts through the opening for the starter.

Is my best bet to remove the engine and ATX, then pull the ATX off so that the torque convertor remains attached to the flexplate and engine? Pulling the ATX out just seems like more work. . . . just trying to avoid that.

[xelderx]

It's actually not that bad to pull the motor/tranny as an assembly. First, drain your tranny fluid. Then remove the king pins from the steering knuckles which will allow you to pry the driveshafts out of the tranny. Remove the three bolts that hold the passenger side halfshaft to the block and then get a good pry bar or big flathead screwdriver to pop the assembly out of the tranny case. After that is done, just unplug the sensors, remove the shift cable, and the tranny cooler lines. Remove the tranny mount under the intake and if all the motor stuff is undone it should come right out.

[Ryoga28]

How long wound you say takes? My mechanic said it was pain in the ass and I don't know if he's lying to me or now.

[xelderx]

I can have the motor pulled out of the car in less than 5 hours, but I've done it 3 times.

[GNO]

Yeah, the FSM states to pull the ATX with the motor. I guess I just wanted to avoid the ATF mess.

Once I have the assembly out, I'll still have to separate the engine and ATX. If the motor is seized, how would I access the TC bolts? On everything else I've worked on there were bolts on the outer portion of the flexplate securing it to the TC. On the inner portion, there were bolts securing the flexplate to the crank. In order to access the outer bolts on the TC, I would reach into the hole where the starter sits. Remove a bolt, rotate the engine to access the next bolt and remove. Since the motor is seized, would I have to dissassemble the motor in order to free it enough to rotate before it can be separated from the ATX?

I was thinking I could still separate the ATX from the engine, leaving the TC and flexplate intact, however, I don't have a TC or flexplate on the new engine. So I'll need a way to take it off still.

[xelderx]

I can't remember exactly how the ATX is done. I haven't messed with one since last summer. I think you can just get a regular boxend wrench in behind the TC to remove the bolts once the tranny is seperated from the block if that is where the bolts are. I can't remember. I think I just used a regular wrench and hit it with a deadblow hammer to loosen them.

[GNO]

I'll give it a try. . . pull the assembly first. Thanks for all the help, xelderx!!!!

[xelderx]

Let us know if you run into any problems.

[GNO]

I didn't get much done yesterday. . . disconnected the fuel line and throttle and shift cables, removed the A/C, PS, fusebox, radiator, and battery.

I had another two hours to work on this. . . didn't get much done. I took off the hub nut and tie rod without too much trouble. However the ball joint has become a challenge. I have the clinch bolt and nut removed for the ball joint, but the ball joint is not budging. The tines on the fork of my ball joint/tie rod separator are too close together, so I've been trying with just a pry bar. No luck for the last two hours. ARGHHHH $#|+!!!! I'll do a little shopping tomorrow, but I don't know if there is a ball joint separator with tines further apart.

As always, I'm open to suggestions/recommendations on separating the ball joint from the spindle.

I know I can still get the axle off by separating the strut from the spindle, but ball joints have been a bit of a nemisis of mine, so I'd rather learn to do it right. Between the ball joints and pulling the axle off away from the transmission. . . those are the two main reasons I wanted to avoid pulling the ATX. :D

[xelderx]

Use some penetrating lube and go ahead and remove the shock from the spindle. The way the bushings in the control arm are done it doesn't allow much room for it to move up and down which makes it hard to get the ball joint disconnected. If you disconnect the shock you can pull up on the spindle while pressing down on the control arm. Having a few extra hands around helps here since you may still need to pry a little.