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View Full Version : motor mount question for those who installed there awr mounts



ebmp5
05-25-2005, 10:46 PM
ok i gonna replace my motor mounts

is the front mount right in frount of the tranny o wha and do u remove the hole damn thing right

and is 88 durameter good for the front or should i go 95

Protege52003
05-25-2005, 10:48 PM
its under the pre-cat in front of the engine bay......

two botls you get access by looking under the car and the bolt that holds it to the engine you get access from above the engine.....

they are pretty tight to make sure you have a breaker bar.....believe the nuts are 17mm.....

RaiderMP5
05-25-2005, 10:52 PM
ok i gonna replace my motor mounts

is the front mount right in frount of the tranny o wha and do u remove the hole damn thing right

and is 88 durameter good for the front or should i go 95

The front mount is atthe bottom in front of the radiatior. Yes, you take out thw whole thing. 2 17mm bolts underneath, and one stubborn one in the middle up on top. To get that one out, use a breaker bar or long ratchet and go from underneath, and brace yourself on something. Mine was a bitch to get out.

95 is the stiffest. I had the 88 front mount for 2 weeks, and puled it off and sold it to someone on the forum and went back to stock, as it was too stiff for me, as my whole car shook. 70 is the softest, and I recommend that one.

Protege52003
05-25-2005, 11:03 PM
...i used the auto bushing that vibrates a good amount over the soick mount. there is no way i could have the front and rear done. it would be too much for me.

rednecks_r_us
05-25-2005, 11:41 PM
I have the 95D and holy cow does my car vibrate under 1000 rpms. After that its fine but sitting at a light I can't see clearly in any of my mirrors. Going down the highway my mirrors still buzz too. To clearly see if its a police car behind me I have to push in the clutch to get the mirror to stop buzzing. But my engine doesn't move, my exhaust no longer bumps the bottom of my car, I no longer have that stupid wheel hop and the best thing is that first gear lunge while idling in a parking lot that makes you look like you can't drive a stick is gone.

So get the 70 D if you want a better than stock but with out all the stiffness

SkinnyJoint
05-26-2005, 10:51 AM
ok so a stiffer one will lose that lunge in first gear that makes you look like a noob, but moves alot while your idling? and a softer one wont get rid of the lunge or will?
whats stock ones number wise?

Mr. 4500 RPM
05-26-2005, 11:45 AM
ok there are three different stifnesses.

manual, 95 durameter.
auto, 88 durameter.
street, 70 durameter.

they basically all do the same thing but some are stiffer then others, it depends on what youd like. they all get rid of wheel hop but the stiffer, higher number durameter, they are the more the car vibrates. so it is up to the user to make the choice. ive been told the front are ok to do but the back is a bitch. so best of luck with your final decision and hope this helps. i personally will be giving up some creature comfort and will get front and rear manual mounts/bushings. also note that you can always change bushings down the road. so if you want to try manual and decide its too much vibration you can get street insert bushings. you may also mix and match to make any combination youd like. also awr offers side mount inserts soon. not sure if youve seen but i am heading up a group buy so for anyone needing some mounts or inserts see my sig for reference to GB.

SkinnyJoint
05-26-2005, 12:24 PM
ok there are three different stifnesses.

manual, 95 durameter.
auto, 88 durameter.
street, 70 durameter.

they basically all do the same thing but some are stiffer then others, it depends on what youd like. they all get rid of wheel hop but the stiffer, higher number durameter, they are the more the car vibrates. so it is up to the user to make the choice. ive been told the front are ok to do but the back is a bitch. so best of luck with your final decision and hope this helps. i personally will be giving up some creature comfort and will get front and rear manual mounts/bushings. also note that you can always change bushings down the road. so if you want to try manual and decide its too much vibration you can get street insert bushings. you may also mix and match to make any combination youd like. also awr offers side mount inserts soon. not sure if youve seen but i am heading up a group buy so for anyone needing some mounts or inserts see my sig for reference to GB.

ok so do all of them get rid of the "lunge" as well? what would be the benifet of getting stiffer then if they both get rid of lunge and hopige ?

Mr. 4500 RPM
05-26-2005, 12:32 PM
ok so do all of them get rid of the "lunge" as well? what would be the benifet of getting stiffer then if they both get rid of lunge and hopige ?

well i cannot speak from expierence but i am going from what cullen has told me about the different stiffnesses. i am assuming, and yes assuming makes an ass of you and me haha, that the stiffer the mounts/inserts the greater of an effect it will have. so the stiffer you go the less wheel hop you have and the rougher the ride but better perfomance youl get. as far as lunge ive not heard much about it but am assuming it will take care of it as well just have not as rough a ride. I really cannot speak from expierence only from what i am told. but best of luck.

Mike R
05-26-2005, 05:23 PM
The lunge diappears with the 88 and 95. Don't know what it's like with the 70's. I'd like to try the 70's with the side mount inserts. I've had many combinations of the 88's and 95's. They are too much for an average driver. You have to be an enthusiast to keep them in. I killed my stock 6 disc with the mounts from vibration, and idling with the A/C on is so friggin annoying. I'm running the 88's F&R currently.

Protege52003
05-26-2005, 11:37 PM
yeah, the front took care of the engine lash and made the wheel-hoping not nearly as bad as factory mount. seems like the eibachs also helped with totally taking care of wheel hop problem.....i will really have to check it out. i am trying not to drive the car hard becasue i want it to last a looooong time....

kvman50
05-30-2005, 06:05 PM
I bought the AWR front mount (95) and a set of bushing inserts (80) 4 pieces that are installed on the mounts either side of the car (ends of engine). I put them in fairly easily and yes the motor does vibrate. Or rather the whole car does. Mostly just at idle... you wouldn't be able to sell the car with them in unless they were really into performance. I am, so it's fine for me. And yes Toto... they virtually eliminate wheel hop and just makes the car feel more solid. I drive pretty hard so it's worth it in my books!
David

apocman
05-30-2005, 06:32 PM
I have the 95 and I love it!!! yea a little vibration at idle, but not enough to matter to me!!!

it sure beats having the stock ones in and having the motor jump to the point i couldn't go into third one night!!!!

CasopoliS
06-04-2005, 10:28 AM
For those who installed the front mount, where did you jack the engine up from, and how much? Thanks.

RaiderMP5
06-04-2005, 10:45 AM
I used the jack on the oil pan, just jacked it to the point it touched the bottom, and that held it fine, with very little pressure. Some guys here got the mount swapped without jacking upt he car, but I had to.

BradC
06-04-2005, 11:27 AM
Put a block of wood on the jack before you jack up on the pan or anything though...

RaiderMP5
06-04-2005, 11:56 AM
I agree. I did put a scrap 2 by 4 in between, forgot to mention that.

CasopoliS
06-04-2005, 02:03 PM
Thanks guys. Install was a breeze with a deep 17mm socket and a 14" pipe. I jacked the engine up just enough to relieve the weight.

I also replaced radiator fluid and took out my Boost Sciences Reflex BPV, it was a productive morning!

FYI that BPV will be for sale soon ;)

NJP5Guy
06-04-2005, 11:05 PM
For those who installed the front mount, where did you jack the engine up from, and how much? Thanks.

you dont need to jack it for the front mount. that mount doesnt really hold any weight. i initially had a support under the engine but then realized it wasnt needed.

NJP5Guy
06-04-2005, 11:06 PM
I used the jack on the oil pan, just jacked it to the point it touched the bottom, and that held it fine, with very little pressure. Some guys here got the mount swapped without jacking upt he car, but I had to.

i cant beleive youd even consider jacking under the oil pan........?????????

ebmp5
06-05-2005, 07:26 AM
i suggest u do support the eninge or the middle bolt would b a bitch to put in

CasopoliS
06-05-2005, 09:41 AM
About the oil pan. The engine is already being held up, when you put something under the oil pan, you are just relieving a bit of the stress on the front mount... but only a slight amount of weight is on that pan becuase the other mounts are doing their job. And if you use a long block of wood, you are distributing that small amount of force across it. If you were actually lifting the motor, I would never recommend jacking on the oil pan either.